So, I built the Uproar. It sounds great! I added the optional presence mod, but when I switch it in/out, I hear NO change in sound.
Deets:
- I've 95-tuple checked the switch (SPST) wiring...it's correct.
- I put a 1µf cap in the CP spot and a 6.8nf in the c10 spot, as per the mod directions.
- I pulled them both and replaced them both (just to be sure my caps and values were correct). They were/are)
Any ideas? I've got better-than-many ears, so if the mod DOES anything, it's reasonable to think that I'd be able to notice. And I trust that the mod DOES do something. I can't imagine it's so subtle that it's inaudible ;).
PS - I think (though don't know WHY) the problem might be that my SPST is On/Off and the build doc calls for SPST ON/ON.
Could this be it?
yes. If it's an on/off, that could be the culprit. Can you use your DMM and see how the switch connects during the different throws? The middle should be the always on lug, and then each throw should select a different outside lug. If it's on/off, it may be that with one throw it isn't changing anything for you.
Jacob
I don't think I can measure it with a DMM, since it's only got two lugs...
I wonder though, theoretically, what's the difference between the On/On type and On/Off type of SPST switch such that an On/Off type wouldn't work. It only has two lugs, but, then, the diagram for the On/On type shows just the two lugs connected. I'm interested to know (every LITTLE bit I learn is tremendously helpful :) ).
Next time I make a parts order I'll order an On/On type SPST switch and see if that does the trick. It's the only thing it could be!
Thanks!
---
Cam
The switch won't make a difference. I used a DPDT footswitch for mine.
I'd say the switch is the problem too. Although maybe a bad cap?
To test the switch, simply switch your DMM to the continuity setting, or if there isn't one, the diode tester will work. Just put one probe to each lug on the switch. The meter should read a default reading when the switch is off. Not sure if all meters are the same, but mine reads '1', then when the probes are connected it drops down to zero, so you should see something like that when the switch it turned on, if it's working fine.
Quote from: Mark_McQ on April 13, 2011, 09:45:10 PM
The switch won't make a difference. I used a DPDT footswitch for mine.
I'd say the switch is the problem too. Although maybe a bad cap?
To test the switch, simply switch your DMM to the continuity setting, or if there isn't one, the diode tester will work. Just put one probe to each lug on the switch. The meter should read a default reading when the switch is off. Not sure if all meters are the same, but mine reads '1', then when the probes are connected it drops down to zero, so you should see something like that when the switch it turned on, if it's working fine.
Thanks. Yeah, I did that with my DMM. But, since it only has two lugs, I can't test which is always on. I'd need three to do that (Measure 1 and 2 for continuity, flip switch, measure 2 and 3, then test 1 and 3 in both directions. That's enough info to deduce which lug is always on.).
I definitely have continuity in the 'on' position. And definitely don't have any in the 'off' position. And, in neither case are any of the lugs grounded out, as far as I can tell (no contuinity to ground). But I don't think that's enough to know which lug is always on.
Sounds like switch is fine to me.
Can you post a picture?
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on April 13, 2011, 10:11:11 PM
Sounds like switch is fine to me.
Can you post a picture?
Jacob
Certainly. What would you like me to aim at? :)
Your guitar pedal?
But seriously, both sides of the PCB
Jacob
any chance you could post a soundclip of your uproar ?
kinda gave up on mine after hearing it and would like to know if others are getting the same results.
doesn't sound at all like the riot, much much more bass heavy and on the really dark side of the tonal scale
Quote from: Ang3lus on April 15, 2011, 07:42:41 AM
any chance you could post a soundclip of your uproar ?
kinda gave up on mine after hearing it and would like to know if others are getting the same results.
doesn't sound at all like the riot, much much more bass heavy and on the really dark side of the tonal scale
Mine is very dark too. Someone posted either here or on FSB that there's 2 caps that can be lowered to make it a bit brighter. I haven't had a chance to try yet.
I haven't used mine much, it's an ok pedal, but I wasn't blown away by it, I've gone back to the trusty old Dr Boogie/Chunk Chunk. Haven't got a Riot to compare to, but the vids and clips I've heard of one, sound different to my Uproar.
Yeah, fellas. I'll consider putting a clip up. I'm loving the crap out of it! Though I did sub (as recommended in the build doc) a 33n for C8 and 10n for C9 (well...two 5n in parallel). I played it with my rig and it just smoked. So rich and thick and blah blah blah. I didn't expect it'd be MUCH different than my Keeley DS-1. But, whoa mama, did it sound good. A clip won't happen for at least a few days, though. I have the gear to do it, but live in a little apartment. My neighbor bangs on the wall whenever I play -- even at bedroom levels. So I have to figure out the logistics :)
I know nobody likes a loser who exhumes an ancient thread, but I have to in this case. My experience matches
yours exactly. Did you ever do anything to get the presence mod working. Do you still love this pedal?
I finished it and played it for the first time last night and am totally wowed by it.
Also, my presence switch doesn't do anything audible. But I don't even care! It already sounds perfectly "present" without it. I don't have the wooly darkness some people are getting. But also, I put a middle range value in C2 which sort of permanently mid-boosts the thing partially, and is probably the reason for no presence effect.
I've developed this crazy theory: if your presence mod works, you've built it wrong. ;D ;D !!
EDIT: disregard what I wrote in this space previously, i.e. my theory about why the Presence mod wouldn't work. I swapped C10 and CP on the board, but not on the schematic. Hence my bafflement.
OK, future Uproar builders who might stumble upon this thread - I think I've got it sussed...
Changing C9 to 10nF already rolls off the wooly bassiness, rendering the Presence switch pointless. I thought the build notes implied you should do both. But it's an either/or.
In other words, keep C9 at the stock 33nF, and use the presence switch to clean it up.
Or change C9 to 10nF and skip the presence switch altogether. I could be wrong, but that's my current theory.
I guess I'll try the facemelter mod with the unused presence switch...