So, I've been working on a pedal with an etched board. Because it is hand etched, there are no solder lugs in it. As I was soldering the parts in, I overheated the board in a few places and the copper has come up from the fiberglass. I've even completely lost some of the pads. I've been able to use "solder bridges" and jumpers to make all the connections, but nothing anchors to the actual board. Some of these are at pot connections, so every time I dry fit the board into the enclosure, connections break. Anybody know of a fix for this?
Quote from: Cevin on August 06, 2014, 01:39:09 PM
Anybody know of a fix for this?
Unfortunately, it sounds like you are at the point of creating a NEW etched PCB. :-\
Look at the bright side... you will gain a lot more etching and soldering experience! ;D
Crap... I was afraid of that. Thanx for the help!
Stick with it! My first few etches were god awful- I was printing masks on glossy magazine paper and filling in holes with sharpie (still do the latter). If you haven't started using pcb transfer paper yet, I highly suggest it. Steve at small bear sells it @ http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=77. You can also find it in quantity on amazon and ebay, but I like to give small bear my business when and where I can. It holds up super well against the etchant and will make your life much easier!
Quote from: ggarms on August 06, 2014, 03:46:04 PM
Stick with it! My first few etches were god awful- I was printing masks on glossy magazine paper and filling in holes with sharpie (still do the latter). If you haven't started using pcb transfer paper yet, I highly suggest it. Steve at small bear sells it @ http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=77. You can also find it in quantity on amazon and ebay, but I like to give small bear my business when and where I can. It holds up super well against the etchant and will make your life much easier!
i never liked those blue transfer are a bit expensive, if you ask me, the best its using positive photo sentive paper, its the one that its used on the factories to etch the pcbs, its really good to get the best results, i do my etcheds on that, and use soldermask to get better quality
Somewhere I remember reading that the supplies and set-up for the photosensitive method costs quite a bit more than PnP Blue for the average DIY'er :o
I use PnP Blue exclusively and always get good results (sometimes I need a little sharpie action)
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 06, 2014, 04:57:50 PM
Somewhere I remember reading that the supplies and set-up for the photosensitive method costs quite a bit more than PnP Blue for the average DIY'er :o
I use PnP Blue exclusively and always get good results (sometimes I need a little sharpie action)
for me its quite cheap instead, i buy 90 inches roll and that really helps, and quality its amazing
Quote from: copachino on August 06, 2014, 05:54:09 PM
for me its quite cheap instead, i buy 90 inches roll and that really helps, and quality its amazing
Hmmm...
No special lights, solvents, or tools? Just some paper and its a done deal?
I always thought photosensitive transfers needed lighting and some form of liquid developer.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 06, 2014, 06:09:52 PM
Quote from: copachino on August 06, 2014, 05:54:09 PM
for me its quite cheap instead, i buy 90 inches roll and that really helps, and quality its amazing
Hmmm...
No special lights, solvents, or tools? Just some paper and its a done deal?
I always thought photosensitive transfers needed lighting and some form of liquid developer.
yes they need it, but, light, i used a common light from my desk, developer its soda ash, that really cheap on pools stores
Cool... I'll definitely try that!
I get great results with the yellow toner transfer paper on eBay. Also, make sure you are running your iron hot enough...you shouldn't spend more than 3 seconds making a solder connection. Get hot, get in & get out!
A Kester flux pen will also help a lot. Simply use it like a marker on the spots you are about to solder and it will help the solder flow like magic. Keep it up!
that's interesting, i tried two different yellow paper sellers and i couldnt get it to work any more than i could the magazine paper. its probably my toner at work to blame but its the only one i have access to right now.
I have mentioned in other threads that I really believe what works 100% perfect for one person will not work 100% for the next. There are to many variables for it to work that way. When I was learning I found a bunch of different methods that others were using then I tried the ones first that I had materials on hand (like magazine paper and photo paper). After a bunch failed attempts I was able to settle on what works for my situation. I have a few tutorials on my blog on how I do the process if you care to check it out for ideas.
Cody