So this is an evolution of my MRP-8 (http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=49291&hilit=ross+phaser) board which was a devolution of a more ambitious but failed 8 stage project. The additions to this one are an extra 4 phase stages and a 2P4T rotary switch (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR1712F-0204-20F0A-N9-N/?qs=XnUyGRRDCAcS82XtKKOMHg==) to switch between 2, 4, 8 and 12 stages of phasery goodness. The other side of the rotary is tied to the stage indicator LED's. Also added was a Width control a la Mark Hammer (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=48283.msg357987#msg357987) and a Mix control. I don't know and have never corresponded with Mark Hammer. But after working through these Ross Phaser boards I feel like I know him a little. I certainly owe him. If you're out there, Mark, thanks a bunch for all the info you've shared.
Now a few things that aren't so bitchin' with this build. My implementation of the Mix control is a little flawed. The idea was CCW would be full wet signal and CW would be full dry. CCW is about the normal mix of wet/dry and rotating CW gradually cuts the signal but then the dry signal gets really loud and ultimately spits and sputters. Seems like it's on the right track but it still needs to be fixed.
The second big issue is that getting SMD LM13600/NJM13600's is tough. Mouser got a couple hundred 2 weeks ago and I got some (back ordered the rest). More aren't expected until late November. BTW, yours are in the mail, Jason. And for whatever reason 13700's do not work in these boards. I haven't tried them in this build but they did not work in the MRP-8. Also, I can't find my 13700's to experiment with. Sorry, Rej, but I think they may have accidentally got tossed. I'll check in with you soon about that.
Parts shortage and Mix issues aside I'm pretty happy with this phaser. But enough of my words. Here's the pics:
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_181804_zps3c61b8b9.jpg)
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_181910_zps40b31073.jpg)
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_182030_zpsd75ac3d7.jpg)
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_182051_zps5c335940.jpg)
That. Is. Gorgeous. :o
Choose your stages? Mix control? Holy shit, man.
Looks like you used the Mouser 2P4T. It's pricey, but I love the feel on that. So classy.
Thanks Jason. That 2P4T is great. And compact. Works well with board-mounted pots. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a pic of the bottom of the board with everything mounted.
Oh wow, I'm kinda on a bread board binge and I was thinking of doing something like this but through hole.
Any demos?
Mark, that is the pinnacle of OTA phasers! :o
I still don't understand the problem with the LM13700, it's what i've been using in all my stuff that was asking for LM13600 with no problem, like i told you before.
Anyway, very nice build as usual but this one is particularly badass! 8)
That's truly incredible!! Btw, mark hammer is over on diysb a lot.
Oh my god! Freakin incredible. That is just a work of art. I am floored. Bravo!
I am in awe. that PCB is Abso-freakin-lutely beautiful!
Thanks for the nice words, guys.
Quote from: GrindCustoms on August 07, 2014, 03:04:17 AMI still don't understand the problem with the LM13700, it's what i've been using in all my stuff that was asking for LM13600 with no problem, like i told you before.
Yeah, I'm perplexed. Everything I've seen indicates they should drop right in. My best guess is there is something different with the SMD versions of these. But the datasheets don't show anything. I'll keep looking for an answer, though.
Quote from: ThePastRecedes on August 07, 2014, 02:54:37 AMAny demos?
Sorry. I don't have any recording gear.
Quote from: the3secondrule on August 07, 2014, 03:41:37 AM
I am in awe. that PCB is Abso-freakin-lutely beautiful!
The way those phase stages go together made for a pretty neat layout. They go from IC 2A>2B>3A>4A>5A>6A>3B>4B>5B>6B>7B>7A. Once I laid those out everything else just sorta fell into place. Routing had to get a little creative but something pickdropper told me once came in real handy here. "Don't be afraid to use vias. They're free." Now, some of my best friends are vias. :D
That is so f***ing sexy.
Just so next level awesome. That should be a commercial product once you fix the mix control.... Epic
Just woooow!!! Your smd work is amazing...
Quote from: LaceSensor on August 07, 2014, 08:11:47 AM
Just so next level awesome. That should be a commercial product once you fix the mix control.... Epic
Yup. In a transparent enclosure.
Thats a really great layout!
what the others said! I really admire your spirit in designing your own circuits and the SMD parts make them even more badass. If you fix the issue (or not) I'd certainly go for one of those.
Keep them coming.
Incredible smd work. It looks like it's come off an automated production line instead of diy!
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Quote from: GrindCustoms on August 07, 2014, 03:04:17 AM
I still don't understand the problem with the LM13700, it's what i've been using in all my stuff that was asking for LM13600 with no problem, like i told you before.
Anyway, very nice build as usual but this one is particularly badass! 8)
Mark, this is crazy. In a good way. Really badass good. I sense an impending run of these...! ;)
More solder paste?
I think the issue with the 13600 vs 13700 might come down to tighter tolerances on smd parts (less stack up). Not sayin you got lucky Rej, but there's been one or two old circuits I've converted to smd that didn't play as nice with specified pots and I needed slightly different pot values.
Another explanation might be a wrong part somewhere in the hundred or so passives. But I can't imagine something like that actually happening. :o
By the way, the graphics and LEDs look fantastic too!
This is so incredibly pro! I'm stunned!
Just incredibly good.
Work of art. Really.
i want to kiss this on the lips.
Thanks again, guys. I fiddled with the Mix control and got it working a little better. It won't go completely dry so I've decided to call it an Intensity control. So now it works OK. :)
Now I could just get those darn 13600's.
...how?....seriously, your smd work is pure precision.
Wow crazy job !!
Mich P.
More awesomeness right there!
Damn. Some sick things going on here. Definitely sell this to some company and reap the percentages of sales :D
Great built mate.
Totally pro... ;)
cheers.
Stellar work!
Quote from: chuckbuick on August 07, 2014, 02:13:56 AM
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_182051_zps5c335940.jpg)
Just wanted to "pop the hood" (bonnet for you UK blokes ;)) to see that fantastic SMD layout again. Truly inspirational, makes me want to do more SMD layouts/population now. So clean. The symmetry of the layout is so eye-pleasing. 8)
Just a couple dumb questions...this is mostly 0603 right? Also..the "L" pads at the bottom of the PCB...are those for an inductor/LED/wiring?
Yeah, the LEDs - That's something I noticed. It's not easy to get the switch & leds coordinated and laid out perfectly like that. A brain teaser for sure.
Quote from: rullywowr on August 08, 2014, 02:01:56 PM
Quote from: chuckbuick on August 07, 2014, 02:13:56 AM
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad124/v4hor/Pedals/20140806_182051_zps5c335940.jpg)
Just wanted to "pop the hood" (bonnet for you UK blokes ;)) to see that fantastic SMD layout again. Truly inspirational, makes me want to do more SMD layouts/population now. So clean. The symmetry of the layout is so eye-pleasing. 8)
Just a couple dumb questions...this is mostly 0603 right? Also..the "L" pads at the bottom of the PCB...are those for an inductor/LED/wiring?
Glad you like it. Yeah, the resistors and most of the caps are 0603. The L pads are for the LED's. I ran 9V to the CLR then that goes to the pole of the bottom side of the rotary switch, then out to the individual LED's. The "LGND" pad is a common ground for the four indicator LED's and goes to the usual LED indicator ground on the 3PDT. I was trying to minimize the wiring. It only required 6 wires from the board. 9V and GND from the DC jack, IN, OUT, another ground (G2) for the board to the input jack and LGND. I really don't like cutting and stripping wires.
Quote from: chuckbuick link=topic=16879.msg160517#msg160517
Glad you like it. Yeah, the resistors and most of the caps are 0603. The L pads are for the LED's. I ran 9V to the CLR then that goes to the pole of the bottom side of the rotary switch, then out to the individual LED's. The "LGND" pad is a common ground for the four indicator LED's and goes to the usual LED indicator ground on the 3PDT. I was trying to minimize the wiring. It only required 6 wires from the board. 9V and GND from the DC jack, IN, OUT, another ground (G2) for the board to the input jack and LGND. I really don't like cutting and stripping wires.
Mark, I keep looking at this, super sweet. It makes me rethink the 0805s I'm using. I think my tolerance for enjoying wires stops at about 8; for me, the fewer the better.
I did a little looking at the data sheets on those chips. The only thing I think that might make a difference is some buffering on 13700 s, usually not a difference, but for a phaser, it might need some tweaking. Also, TI will often provide samples if you ask.
this is insane!! and cool!
Terrifying!
The SMD skills required for that are unreal. I don't think I'll ever even attempt something so difficult, so kudos to you for not only trying, but executing that build so well.
Jacob
+1 to everything said....Holy Granola man, how's a poor semi noob supposed to keep going?
OK take a deep breath...baby steps....
Thanks guys. The real secret to doing SMD work is that it isn't very difficult. A little magnification (I use an Optivisor), and some metal tweezers go a long way. I also prefer .015" diameter solder and a fine soldering tip. The rest is pretty much like thru-hole, just without the holes. ;)
Years ago I saw an interview with former World Superbike champ, Colin Edwards. He said the key to racing in the rain is to tell yourself and convince yourself that you like racing in the rain. When you do that you have an advantage over your competition. SMD is just racing in the rain. Now I have an advantage over these tiny parts. :)
If you think you're interested in giving it a try, pickdropper's No Mojo fuzz is a good way to start. Also, wgc mentioned in a recent thread that he might be doing a board that is noob friendly so watch for that, too.
Thanks again for all the kind words, guys.
So true. There are some learning curves and things are smaller but really not that much different. Lately I'm finding that magnification is helpful no matter what I'm building.
And I actually do like it better than thru hole. ;)
I'm offering some of my riotous pcbs for sale and Aballen has an smd cornholio. (I also did a cornholio pcb but it hasn't arrived yet.)
This is a magnificent layout/build, regardless!