I turned my Tweaker on and to my surprise, the indicator diode doesn't turn on. At first I thought something serious was broken, but it sounds fine so I think it is just the diode.
However I am not really sure what to replace it with. I am only familiar with the typical Tayda red LEDs. I messaged Egnater support, but they have yet to respond. So I thought I'll get my answer here ;D Any Tweaker owners have any recommendations? Does it seem like the typical blue LED?
I've attached a picture (obviously not mine, since mine is broken), but the light looks like this (http://i.imgur.com/f6yN5RG.png). I checked Tayda, but they appear to only have "ultra bright" blue LEDs and I am not even sure if those LEDs are reliable long term
weird, the blue led just went out last week on my eg tweaker head too
i haven't investigated it at all so i can't be any help
Do you know the value of the current limiting resistor and the supply voltage? From those you could probably surmise the brightness of the LED needed and figure the current draw of the led.
Do blues come in anything but ultra-brite?
If led's are toasting do they have enough clr in there or are they running the led close to it's limit?
Just got a reply from Egnater:
$7 for the LED $10 for the shipping :o Considering the LED costs at most a few cents (I'd pay a $1 for a "luxury" one), this seems quite the ripoff
I'll probably order the Egnater replacement and some cheap 3mm LEDs to have something to A/B and then report back
Quote
Do you know the value of the current limiting resistor and the supply voltage? From those you could probably surmise the brightness of the LED needed and figure the current draw of the led.
I don't have the value off hand, but would a schematic help to determine this? Is the idea to remove (or add one in parralel) the CLR and replace it with a weaker version?
I was thinking another resistor in series to lower the current to the LED. Your DMM set for continuity checking would soon find the clr. Another paralleled with the clr would lower resisitance increasing current flow, wrong way to go. And make sure the amps off and power caps drained before checking for the clr.
The company replacement would appear to be plain and utter greed, 2 cent part packed in a birthday card envelope, $17. Warranty in effect?
dave
I wonder if there is even a schematic out there to peruse.
Quote from: davent on September 15, 2014, 02:30:09 AM
Do blues come in anything but ultra-brite?
Yes they do, I got some off ebay (China, naturally). Nice diffused blue ones.
Just had these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-3mm-Blue-9V-12V-DC-Round-Pre-Wired-Water-Clear-LED-Leds-Light-20CM-New/320987600888?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3Ddc9ab108e9e54e1baa8c277350a80453%26pid%3D100102%26prg%3D20140212121249%26rkt%3D4%26) come in. I did a quick check they look like the right size.I hooked them up to my 9V 1 spot and it looks like it is the right brightness. I'll do the switch the upcoming long weekend.
If you need some Haberdasher (or anyone else whose tweaker light is broken), I can send some your way.
Just a wee bit of a better deal!
You may find it's not as bright once installed. The Egnator original may not have had an integrated CLR so the clr may be on the board and in series with your new LED's. Probably still be bright enough in either case.
dave
Note from experience that Egnater is usually pretty cool to deal with on the tech end. Replacement parts are always a rip-off and they're not any different than anyone else but the problem for me was that opening up an Egnater usually ended up costing me money in terms of repair. I know, honesty in repair charges is a thing of the past, but I'm an old fart. Be REALLY careful opening up that thing to replace ANYTHING. An LED is an LED so you may have to work backwards to replace the CLR but Egs are just a bitch to work on.