(Also posted this at DIYSB.)
Well, I got this thing for next to nothing, and figured I would try to get it working.
D'oh!
The Whammy powers up, some lights constantly remain on, and it only puts out clean signal regardless of the output used or if you hit the footswitch. I can't get any effect from it. I can't get the lights to turn off. I got a new factory AC power supply, and it still has the same problem.
It may not even be worth the trouble, but I will take any advice anyone has on where to start poking at this thing. It does not seem to be the typical power supply or calibration problem.
Here's a pic of the pedal with the random lights stuck on.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/13215910/IMAG1553.jpg)
Tried this?
What is the reset and pedal calibration for the Whammy 4?
Disconnect power.
Press and hold the silver footswitch.
Connect power.
Wait until the light blinks several times.
Let go of footswitch.
Move the pedal all the way through it's full range of motion.
Press and release the silver footswitch again.
Quote from: Jopn on October 08, 2014, 02:23:47 PM
Tried this?
What is the reset and pedal calibration for the Whammy 4?
Disconnect power.
Press and hold the silver footswitch.
Connect power.
Wait until the light blinks several times.
Let go of footswitch.
Move the pedal all the way through it's full range of motion.
Press and release the silver footswitch again.
Yes, sir, I have tried it.
It turns on and goes straight to the odd lights turned on. It won't calibrate.
In more detail, after connecting the power cable it does nothing for a couple of seconds, then goes to the pictured lights that are stuck on. The footswitch does nothing. I hear only bypassed signal through both outputs.
Anything suspect looking on the inside? True bypass mods on these are fairly frequent. This could be one of those mods that went wrong (cut the wrong trace).
have you tried a switch???, may be that the switch its worng, i have this one bad too, but mine its something really hard to fix
Posted this on the DIYSB site as well....
Found on several sites (including the Digitech forum) that the power supply is a problem with these. Allegedly, it does not cut the mustard as far as voltage goes. There were a few reports of people using a Line6 or POD power supply and it working great.
http://digitech.com/soundcomm/guitar_view_thread.asp?productid=42&thread_id=1025792676
Scroll to the bottom for more info. TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK :o
EDIT: More info here too
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=82383.0
Look at it this way. You now have a BADASS enclosure you can strip and use for a super cool build if you cant get it going!
Quote from: flanagan0718 on October 08, 2014, 06:22:25 PM
Look at it this way. You now have a BADASS enclosure you can strip and use for a super cool build if you cant get it going!
Agreed, Weener and a 1 knob fuzz and you would not have to drill a hole lol
Cody
Quote from: flanagan0718 on October 08, 2014, 06:22:25 PM
Look at it this way. You now have a BADASS enclosure you can strip and use for a super cool build if you cant get it going!
I know! I have a couple other back up ideas to explore if I can't fix it.
I will update after I open it up for probing later.
Quote from: AntKnee on October 08, 2014, 08:31:28 PM
Quote from: flanagan0718 on October 08, 2014, 06:22:25 PM
Look at it this way. You now have a BADASS enclosure you can strip and use for a super cool build if you cant get it going!
I know! I have a couple other back up ideas to explore if I can't fix it.
I will update after I open it up for probing later.
GUTS GUTS GUTS
Well, I don't see any obvious cut traces or attempts to bypass it or anything.
Gut pictures here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41onp0wdweu6iwl/AAAFWIZwjPaehaTlh3RQVhFka (https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41onp0wdweu6iwl/AAAFWIZwjPaehaTlh3RQVhFka)
Maybe try reseating the EEPROM(I think that is what it is called???). On the Line 6 x4 pedals, reseating sometimes does the trick if the pedal is glitching out like that.
Quote from: AntKnee on October 09, 2014, 11:06:08 PM
Well, I don't see any obvious cut traces or attempts to bypass it or anything.
Gut pictures here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41onp0wdweu6iwl/AAAFWIZwjPaehaTlh3RQVhFka (https://www.dropbox.com/sc/41onp0wdweu6iwl/AAAFWIZwjPaehaTlh3RQVhFka)
The regulators certainly look like they've taken some heat.
That big Motorola qfp looks like it has some solder bridges on a few pins. Some might be intended but hard to say since not all of them look uniform. You can try wicking it and see if there's a trace connecting them or not.
I suspect this had an issue, probably needed a reset or had a bad solder joint to one of the jacks, but the tech dove into trying to resolder a few other things and now it needs a bit more love.
Still no measurements from the regulators or power test points??
Everything about this scenario smells like a power problem. Can't get much further until the OP does some measuring... :-\
I'm sorry. I may have given you the idea that I know what I am doing. ;D
I've built some pedals, fixed some pedals, but I don't know anything about these. I don't know what parts are regulators nor do I know where to test the power. There's a lot of components on here I have no experience with.
Just probing around and taking measurements. I get 0 reading for C7. Maybe that needs to be replaced?
It definitely looks like someone touched up or replaced the regulators, there's residue from solder wick on the bottom side in the first picture. I don't think its from getting too hot during use since the traces and surrounding pcb seem fine. I'd verify that the correct regulators are in place and not subbed with something "close enough."
There is a part on the the top, a Motorola dsp chip xcb56362, with all the fine pitch leads, that looks funny to me but hard to see in your picture.
A short on an ic like that can definitely cause issues like the ones you're having.
Quote from: wgc on October 11, 2014, 01:43:06 PM
It definitely looks like someone touched up or replaced the regulators, there's residue from solder wick on the bottom side in the first picture. I don't think its from getting too hot during use since the traces and surrounding pcb seem fine. I'd verify that the correct regulators are in place and not subbed with something "close enough."
There is a part on the the top, a Motorola dsp chip xcb56362, with all the fine pitch leads, that looks funny to me but hard to see in your picture.
A short on an ic like that can definitely cause issues like the ones you're having.
That regulator, U2, looked suspect to me when I first opened it. That residue really stood out to me. That particular regulator, if you can tell in the photo, has more of a chrome finish. U1, on the other hand, looks unmolested and has a brassy finish.
I will post a part number for them a soon as I know what they are.
One other thing I'd think about is making sure you have the right power supply, it appears from anther thread I read elsewhere that some are 12vac and some 9ish vac
Quote from: wgc on October 11, 2014, 02:59:30 PM
One other thing I'd think about is making sure you have the right power supply, it appears from anther thread I read elsewhere that some are 12vac and some 9ish vac
Yes, I have the correct one. First thing I did was order a new correct AC power supply, which was the same as the one the pedal came with, but I wanted to rule that out and got a new one. Its a 9V 1.3A
Really, really, really suggest AGAIN that you take measurements from ALL of the regulators (Inputs, Outputs, and continuity to GND)
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 12, 2014, 12:16:20 PM
Really, really, really suggest AGAIN that you take measurements from ALL of the regulators (Inputs, Outputs, and continuity to GND)
I hear ya, Lacky. I really want to get that, but there is a learning curve on my part. I've never worked with these, and have little experience troubleshooting or using meters. I'm working on it though. I'll post up as soon as I have the numbers. I appreciate the help!
OK. Lets start with identification. Your regulators will look like this:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/TO-220_Front_Coloured.svg)
Look inside the pedal for these and write down ALL of the information that is printed on each one and post it here.
Here they are. I had to remove the heat sinks to expose them.
From left to right they are U3, U2, and U1. U1 is the brassy looking one, the others are chrome like.
Also just tested the regulator grounds for continuity, using the diode tester of my multimeter. I get a reading of less than 10 on all the grounds. Looks good there.
Well... :-[
I was in the process of testing voltage, and when I plugged in the AC supply, D6 exploded! I am pretty sure I accidentally shorted out something on the bottom side of the pcb. I don't think it is related to the current issue I am dealing with. I wasn't very careful about my work surface. I may just scrap it now. I removed the diode and will put in a new one when it arrives, but if it seems any different after that, I am going to trash it. I will update when I am at that point.
>:(
Got the blown diode replaced, and it is behaving the same as before.
So, I'm open to instruction on what to check next.
I was going to go ahead and check voltages on the regulators, but I'm not sure how to do this since the pedal is AC. I don't know if I can check it with my multimeter.
It's not ac, rectification happens on the pcb shortly after the power jack.
As far as I can tell you haven't ruled out all of the other possibilities already posted. Very likely your issue can be one of those.
I also have a non-working whammy4....
The problem is kinda weird, when powered, everything is normal it will scroll through all the different modes, goes in bypass and Effect In.
The only problem is that the expression does nothing, always sounds like it's stock in a position.
I did the reset/calibration thing, when i move the expression pedal it reads it, but it still does'nt work when i then play it, anyone have a cue about that problem?
Hope it's ok to ask here, did'nt feel to start another thread since this one was already going.
Rej
Quote from: wgc on October 17, 2014, 12:10:52 AM
It's not ac, rectification happens on the pcb shortly after the power jack.
As far as I can tell you haven't ruled out all of the other possibilities already posted. Very likely your issue can be one of those.
You're right. I have verified continuity to ground. I need to check the regulator voltages. I assume then, that I just test it like any other voltage, then?
(numbering the leads 1, 2, 3, from left to right as pictured)
U1 (LD33V):
1. (G)
2. (O) 3.30
3. (I) 10.17
U2 (MC7805C):
1. (I) 12.33
2. (G)
3. (O) 5.02
U3 (KA7905):
1. (G)
2. (I) -14.20
3. (O) -5.02
You'll want to check data sheets for each, but 3.3v and 5v seems ok to me on a digital circuit.
Get the data sheets for the other ics and check voltages there too.
Quote from: wgc on October 17, 2014, 01:46:38 PM
You'll want to check data sheets for each, but 3.3v and 5v seems ok to me on a digital circuit.
Get the data sheets for the other ics and check voltages there too.
If those numbers are good, and the problem isn't with the power, and it is possibly an IC, then this is where I throw in the towel and trash it. These ICs are tiny and I don't even want to mess with trying to un/re-solder 144 microscopic leads to a board. I don't have the tools for it, anyway. I'll check some of the easier looking ones and post them up, but I've just about reached my limit.
It could be something in between power and ics. Likely something easy
Quote from: wgc on October 17, 2014, 03:38:19 PM
It could be something in between power and ics. Likely something easy
True. I really appreciate your, and everyone's, time and help. I just miss easy problems, like I forgot to put the IC in.
Question: What should I look for on the data sheet? Am I looking for in and out pins to check voltages?
One thing I wonder is why the 3 different input voltages to the regulators?
Anyways... could you post the part numbers for the ICs? Doesn't hurt to have other eyes looking for info ;)
Sure thing. Thanks, gentlemen.
U4, U5, U7, U14:
4580
0236
JRC
U6: CS4221-KS
JNADPC9934
U8: 74HC4053
908944
U9: 72-5530-01 V120
WHAMMY4
CS-DA4A
U10: (MOTOROLA)
XCB56362PV100
OH76G
HQCZ9950
U11: 93C46B
/SN
U12: 00005
6N138
U13: IL74HCCUD
C5836ME
Hnn9931D
U16: 9918H
74HC574A
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 17, 2014, 07:55:41 PM
One thing I wonder is why the 3 different input voltages to the regulators?
Anyways... could you post the part numbers for the ICs? Doesn't hurt to have other eyes looking for info ;)
I wondered the same thing. There is a chain of rectifiers (1N4005E and two large ones with no marking) and 1000uF caps between the power jack and the regulators.
Something else you could try is to simply email Digitech support and "ask" for the schematic to your pedal. They are usually very forthcoming with that info (as long as they do not currently sell that model)
Worst they can do is say NO 8)