Ok, I've been using Kester "44" rosin-core solder for a long time. But at times when I'm building a project with a white pcb or some other color, I'm not too pleased at the yellow resin that is left behind.
Do any of you use anything to clean it up? i've tried rubbing alcohol, but it seems to just spread around making the whole board sticky.
Is there a better solder to be used? I'd like my joints to be cleaner overall.
Thanks!
I don't bother, and in Lord knows how many builds, it hasn't been a problem and isn't likely to be one, unless I start using clear plastic enclosures, and even then no one is going to care.
That said, if you use plumber's solder, that is acidic, and you in for more problems than just washing it off.
IIRC, people have posted about high frequency boards needing washing, but for the normal stompbox thang it ain't no thang.
Quote from: alanp on October 27, 2014, 03:42:50 AM
I don't bother, and in Lord knows how many builds, it hasn't been a problem and isn't likely to be one, unless I start using clear plastic enclosures, and even then no one is going to care.
That said, if you use plumber's solder, that is acidic, and you in for more problems than just washing it off.
IIRC, people have posted about high frequency boards needing washing, but for the normal stompbox thang it ain't no thang.
i do bother and i use some isopropil to clean the pads, also some electronics cleaner can can do the jobs, just spray it and use a a toothbrush to clean
I've used isopropanol.. you have to use rather a lot of it. Otherwise it will spread and make the whole thing sticky, as you said.
I let it set up and then use a dental pick to pop it off, use a bristle shortened, stiff, small paint brush to brush off the leftover dust.
dave
I use a combination of things if I clean boards (which isn't always).
1.) flux remover - does a better job than isopropanol, but is more expensive
2.) high purity isopropanol - as you've noticed, it leaves the board sticky, but it will eventually get it clean with enough washes.
3.) Davent's approach - this works well, too. I've used my fingernail, a wood stick, some dull tweezers, you name it. I usually follow it up wish alcohol.
When washing a board, be very careful if there are sockets on there as you can wash the gunk into the sockets. Same with non-sealed trim pots. I usually use compressed air to get any residue out from under ICs as well.
I either don't clean it or do #3, knock off most of it, brush, then old toothbrush and isopropyl.
Also helps if you soak up/blot the isopropyl & flux mixture with a paper towel rather than let it evaporate and leave the flux behind.
Thanks all! Was wondering if there was a magic bullet, but sounds like copius amounts of isoproponal is the key :)
Quote from: toddvirgil on October 27, 2014, 10:41:48 PM
Thanks all! Was wondering if there was a magic bullet, but sounds like copius amounts of isoproponal is the key :)
Well, I would get a can of flux remover and try it. You may or may not feel it is worth the cost, but it cleans the board much more easily than Isopropanol.
In an effort to be cheap, I often hit it first with flux remover and second with Isopropanol.
If you have a Fry's near you, they have some very reasonably priced flux remover there.
I have a can of flux remover, and use the cheapest toothbrushes at rite aid. They seem to work better than good toothbrushes for this application
This is what I use. Is it good? I don't know. Does it work? Pretty much
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/solder/flux-removers/flux-remover-for-pc-boards-4140/
I figured out something that works great. I get a toothbrush soaked in isopropyl, then I add a little dab of liquid soap to it and scrub away. The tiny bit of soap is enough to keep it from getting all gummy. It really works! After I've thoroughly scrubbed it, I rinse the toothbrush and scrub it a couple times just with the water in the toothbrush. Then I run water over it and dry it. This leaves no gummy residue. If there are any bits of flux left, I either pop it off with a dental pick or do the scrub thing again.
Anyone tried the CRC quick-dry Electronics Cleaner?
Also, a guy on YouTube says most flux remover is simply 50/50 Alcohol and Acetone. Really cheap if you want to make some yourself apparently...
Quote from: Justus on October 28, 2014, 04:36:49 PM
Anyone tried the CRC quick-dry Electronics Cleaner?
Also, a guy on YouTube says most flux remover is simply 50/50 Alcohol and Acetone. Really cheap if you want to make some yourself apparently...
i use electronic cleaner, really good, and leave no sticky
Quote from: Justus on October 28, 2014, 04:36:49 PM
Anyone tried the CRC quick-dry Electronics Cleaner?
Also, a guy on YouTube says most flux remover is simply 50/50 Alcohol and Acetone. Really cheap if you want to make some yourself apparently...
Acetone will likely strip off the printing on the PCB. It's not really all that great for your skin either.
If I bother to clean anything, I use vodka and Kimwipes. Seriously. I hate isopropyl, but it's probably a good choice in place of the vodka. On the other hand, you really can't drink it if you decide not to bother with cleaning off the flux.
I do you use no clean flux in the solder and flux pens I use. I picked up the Kimwipes idea from the youtube videos of the guy that does the incredible SMD soldering tutorials. He puts the wipe on top of the part and then sprays/brushes the isopropyl onto the wipe and just lifts it off after a second. I think a key is to do it while soldering and don't let the flux it there for too long.
Quote from: Justus on October 28, 2014, 04:36:49 PM
Anyone tried the CRC quick-dry Electronics Cleaner?
Also, a guy on YouTube says most flux remover is simply 50/50 Alcohol and Acetone. Really cheap if you want to make some yourself apparently...
The guy on YouTube isn't correct. It's possible some of them are, but certainly not all. The MG Chemicals stuff linked to above is actually a mix of denatured alcohol, isopropanol and ethyl acetate. I looked up some others and there was some even funkier stuff in there; there isn't a single recipe.
I'd be a little nervous using acetone to clean boards, but who knows.
Apparently, years ago the flux removers were REALLY effective, largely due to very nasty solvents (this is true with old contact cleaners as well). Cleaners that worked so well that they were simply to die from.
Do you want me to give my solvent cabinet a go and find the one solvent to clean them all? :)
Yeah, some of these are nasty. I looked up Chemtronics Flux-Off, which I use at work. It works great. Here's why:
methylpentane
difluoroethane
methylpentane
dimethylbutane
dimethylbutane
ethanol
Isopropyl alcohol
Carbon dioxide
n-hexane
Some pretty nasty stuff, there. N-hexane is most famous for being the chemical that poisoned the workes in China making iPhones
http://www.bbc.com/news/technology-12550429
I'm not sure what the big deal is. When I've used it, I've never passed out for more than a few hours. :o
I'm working with hexane on a daily basis. There is a lot worse, but hexane is not too much fun to work with. It's very volatile and potentially neurotoxic (not sure yet, but likely). The volatility makes it dangerous, especially if you do not have the appropriate ventilation system, which was most likely the case in china.
It's still widely used because it's cheap and dissolves apolar substances like grease. If you have the right facilities to handle these compounds it's not a big deal actually.
I use isopropyl and simple green. First ISO then Simple Green. Works good.
Isopropyl and a detergent should work great, should have thought of that. The auto cleaner we had was basically a saponifier and rinse and dry.
Prior to that, the magic cleaner was freon.
Acetone btw will usually take ink or silkscreen off pretty quick.
The only thing I've actually used (just saw the YouTube video yesterday actually) is plain alcohol wipes. They can be had for dirt cheap.
(http://www.firstaidsuppliesonline.com/images/products/images/152606.jpg)
One or two wipes per board usually does the trick well enough. I was using "no-clean" flux solder anyway, but since it's been tougher to work with I just switched to Kester 285, which has RMA flux - seemingly an inbetweener, not as harsh as activated rosin, not perfectly no-clean. I haven't actually used it yet, having just got it in the mail recently, but I'm looking forward to better results.