I've just finished my second failed Thunderpuss. The first one I used the Tone pad easy wiring diagram, and only got sound in bypass. I'm pretty sure I should be able to use that right? Anyway, the second one I followed the given off board wiring. I get sound when not bypassed, but it is just edgier and has less punch. Anybody know of a particular component that could be most attributed to the lack in boost? Again, it does change the color of the sound, but doesn't increase volume. I've put together harder pedals, so I don't know what the problem is, as I was very careful having failed on the first one. The only thing I did that might matter (but I doubt it) was to use a silver mica cap for the 47pf (C2). Any ideas? Thanks...
Have you tried testing either one out hooked up to a breadboard (to eliminate hardware failure, incorrect wire hookup, etc)?
I haven't built this before, but my guess would be on the wiring. I was under the impression that Tonepad's layout has the millenium bypass circuit built into the same board, so if you're trying to wire it like a regular 3PDT true bypass pedal I would think you would have some issues there...
I dunno, just a thought :)
-Kaleb
But it's the second one that I've built and this IS with the Mad Bean idea...plus Brian told me at one point that the Tone pad method would work for most. As far as the breadboard, I'm guessing you mean a permanent testing setup? No, I haven't tried that. I've wired 40 successful pedals though, so usually I do get the wiring right. I've also never had volume issues that were related to the off board wiring. Have you guys seen that?
If you think it's the outboard wiring, I would just use jumpers to test connections (alligator clips with wires attached). If it sounds the same, then I would try components. Hopefully you socketed the BS170. Try a different BS170 or another similar tranny with the same pinout.
There isn't much to mess up on a build like this. Don't rule out a bad component.
J
Matt----I mean this with respect and not as a insult in any way: I've built many hundreds of circuits, and I always test them out before committing them to an enclosure. I'm not saying that is the problem here, but in terms of de-bugging it's part of the process of elimination. That might not be the issue at all....but it's also kind of necessary to get to the bottom of the problem. A reliable testing rig can eliminate a lot of pointless guesswork or your part, and ours :)
Thanks guys, I had thought of the transistor and tried that with no change. I see it's almost as easy as builds get, but what confounds me is that I've failed twice. For caps 1 and 4 I uses the topmay box type and put them in the middle two of the four pads on each side...this seemed to make sense based on the diagram in the plans which illustrates bigger caps. But I do have to figure a way to make a test setup...
Would a testing rig include the bypass switch?
It's a good idea, IMO. The idea being that if you create a rig that has bypass switching that you know works 100% then you can focus your attention on debugging the build....not the wiring.
Here's an example of the one I'm putting together: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1510.0
(http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1510.0;attach=848;image)
And, Jacob's Design and Development tutorial works for this, although it has a lot more capability than an actual testing rig: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1230.0
IIRC, there was the discussion about the BS170 being static sensitive. I always handle them with plyers and never touch just to be safe.
Wow, I will study these closely...thanks!
Thanks bigmufffuzzwizz, maybe that's the case. I certainly didn't use pliers! I've tried three and quite a few other types, and I got either the same or nothing. Any ideas on de-staticing?
The way you do it is either to wear a static discharging wristband which would connect to GND or to touch something grounded, something that plugs into the wall w/ a 3 prong plug. It would have to have exposed metal to work effectively. For instance your computer will have screws on the back exposed. You should be dis-charged if you touch one of those. From there try your best not to rub your feet on the carpet or other static creating activities! ;D
Well thanks again!
Quote from: madbean on May 27, 2011, 07:44:38 PM
It's a good idea, IMO. The idea being that if you create a rig that has bypass switching that you know works 100% then you can focus your attention on debugging the build....not the wiring.
Here's an example of the one I'm putting together: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1510.0
(http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1510.0;attach=848;image)
And, Jacob's Design and Development tutorial works for this, although it has a lot more capability than an actual testing rig: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1230.0
So I made one of these, and it works. I was curious though...it seems like it would be unuseable with positive ground or dual footswitch systems. Would this be accurate? But what a difference it makes...I've only done it with one board so far, but that board I know won't be the problem when I get it in the box if something doesn't work. Thanks!
You can use it as a positive ground tester. Make sure you orient the polarity of the voltage correctly (the opposite of normal). It is a very handy test tool to have. I've recently been using it to fix broken pedals. I also use it as an audio probe!
Wow, sorry to not acknowledge this sooner...where does the time go? Anyway, thanks for the reply. Does this mean I'd just reverse the board ground and 9v from their normal orientation (as in red to black and black to red as opposed to red to red and black to black)?
Quote from: MattL on July 05, 2011, 04:11:21 PM
Does this mean I'd just reverse the board ground and 9v from their normal orientation (as in red to black and black to red as opposed to red to red and black to black)?
That is one way to do it. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89043.0
If you used a DC jack, you can use plug in the appropriate wall wart power supply (negative voltage, positive ground) without making any changes.
You could also build a MB Road Rage board and have seperate connections for +9V and -9V.
Like mentioned on the link, don't forget to flip the polarized components; transistors, diodes, electrolytic caps. :)
I also have a problem with Thunderpuss. Everything is soldered as it should be. The PCB is clean and there's no short connections. It only "works" in bypass. What could be the problem? I used the BS170 and 2N5457. :-\
brainbender, (in the future) you may want to start a new thread for your question. It's always best to start your own -- it reduces confusion and you'll probably get more attention that way. While you're at it, please read the Rules For Getting Tech Help (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=902.0) post. You need to provide a lot more information (and preferably some photos) before anyone can reliably help you.
I'll start off by saying "only works in bypass" is the absolute most common problem repoprted on every stomp box forum. Solutions range from cables plugged into wrong jacks (are you debugging it upside down?) to wiring issues to incorrect components to bad components, with the latter being te first thing most people want to blame but usually the least common real problem. And don't assume everything is correct until you've been over with your board with a DMM and a signal probe.
I'm not sure if you can even use a 2n5457 in this circuit -- that's a JFET and this circuit uses a MOSFET.
One last question: does your LED light up appropriately? Good luck!
mgwhit:
I built over 40 pedals and this was really helpfull. Thanks. ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
Nevermind, i built the LPB-1...