My recently finished Glitteratti. Second build ever. First was a GGG ITS8, Tube Screamer clone. This was a great build. I made some mistakes but learned a great deal.
Thank you so much MadBean for your personal email assistance and to all those here in the forum for your help. Got all the parts from Pedal Parts Plus and used a few xicon caps instead of box caps and MADE them fit!
Working on a FatPants v2 next.
The good
- Sounds awesome
- Great PCB
- Super control over the gain and the tone.
The bad
- Waterslide decal came out foggy; Any suggestions/feedback?
- Used minwax clear polycrylic - made the decal even foggier. Did not go on smooth, very bubbly. Any suggestions/feedback?
- Trashed a blue LED. Didn't use a 4k7 resistor and fried it. Won't make that mistake again.
- Used Neutrik jacks. Make sure you wire to the terminals on the correct side of the stereo (input) jack. And know the sleeve ring an tip. First lug closest to the jack input is Sleeve, second is ring and farthest from the input hole is tip.
- Didn't lay out the wiring well and had to splice the 9v lead from the DC jack to the PCB. Live and learn. It is getting easier to figure that out.
Kane
[attachment deleted by admin]
You did a great job. This is all about progression and it seems like your learning fast!
Quote from: rjkanejr on June 06, 2011, 06:04:32 PM
The bad
- Waterslide decal came out foggy; Any suggestions/feedback?
- Used minwax clear polycrylic - made the decal even foggier. Did not go on smooth, very bubbly. Any suggestions/feedback?
Hmm what brand waterslide paper are you using? If it is inkjet you have to seal it with clear first, I don't know if that could cause the problem. I use Minwax clear oil based polyurethane urethane and it slightly yellows the finish but never foggy. I remember from lacquering guitar necks and bodies that you can get condensation in the atomized finish when it leaves the can (blushing) if the dewpoint is within 20 degrees of the temperature, try a low humidity environment. To get bubbles out I use a damp paper towel about 5 minutes after I apply the decal and rub the bubbles outward toward the edges while holding the decal with a few fingers. Doesn't get them all so I pop the rest with a razor blade before I apply the clear. Hope that helps next time! The brand of inkjet papers I use is Papilio by the way and they have worked out fine for me.
Congrats on your 2nd build!!!
I use the water-base polycrylic in the aerosol can. Never had that issue. It does not get smooth like a regular clear coat like krylon. Also, the decal needs to be dry before you apply the poly. I leave the decal dry overnight before coating.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=939.0
This was done with a polycrylic and how it should end up looking for reference.
Josh
I used a Laser printer and the waterslide paper from Pedal Parts Plus, not sure what brand that is. Josh, your pedal is what I used for the basis of the idea for my graphics. I was going for that sparkle look but the paint job I picked from PPP looked better on the website than in person. The pedal is functional and sounds great so that is what matters. The decal went on great, but wasn't as clear as I thought it would be. I used the same spray you used. It's not that it is bubbly, it is more like it does not dry smooth, goes on grainy and the only way to get it to be smooth is to oversaturate it, but then you get runs. I think next time I'm going to try the peel off decal method. Someone here posted that Wal-Mart sells some sort of pritn it peel it paper.
Josh - do you print the decal, then coat it, then apply it to the pedal and that's it, or do you clear coat after the decal is applied to the pedal?
Anyway, thanks for the nods and the info guys.
I'll try to keep it brief ::) I did start working on a tutorial for my method but it's not done yet. I've been to busy fooling with delays. ;D
- I clean the enclosure with soap and water then dry it with a lint free cloth.
- Next I'll apply the waterslide. (I use Experts Choice brand because I can pick it up at the local hobby shop)
- I soak it for about 15-30 seconds depending on the size of the decal.
- I'll then place it paper and all right on the enclosure in the general area that it should go.
- Next I'll slowly pull the paper out from underneath while holding the decal in place with two fingers and let the decal cling to the enclosure. I don't apply the waterslide on a wet enclosure because I get to many bubbles with that method.
- Then I'll exactly position the decal, push the big bubbles to the edge or a nearby hole, and then let it dry for about an hour.
- Next I'll cut the holes with an exactoknife and poke any remaining trapped bubbles.
- I'll then take micromark liquid and apply it around the edges of the decal, drilled locations, and poked bubbles. (Don't use to much of the micromark, a little goes a long way) This kind of seals and melts the decal to create a seamless finish.
- I'll then let it sit for a night and the next day apply the polycrylic.
- I do the first coat light.
- Wait about 45 min then do a second coat heavy enough so the poly will settle and even out the bumpiness.
- Wait an hour then do a final 3rd coat. Same heaver than normal coat. Then I let it dry for a day before boxing.
Usually less than 3 coats it gets grainy and bumpy (I have had good success with two sometimes), but more than three coats can start to "cloud" up. It must be low humidity. I don't spay the sides nearly as heavy as they will run much easier. Paint on a level surface so the top gets the gloss look and "levels" from the heavier coats. If you're not level the poly will kind of shift.
Good luck! Hope this helps.
Josh
nice job dude... I like it :)