I just finished putting together my Smoothie pedal, however I'm getting nothing but noise on both settings of the 3DPT switch. On one switch there is some noise and the other slightly less noise. I believe I have everything wired as per the diagram, but I guessed on the jacks because it seemed obvious what would have to be tip and sleeve. I must be doing something wrong with the switch to be getting noise on both ON and OFF positions, but it all looks correct to me. Do the attached images show any egregious errors on my part? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
For starters your 3PDT switch is wired wrong if you followed the madbean diagram. The lugs need to be oriented horizontal when wiring everything up.
Quote from: pryde on February 23, 2015, 11:08:32 PM
For starters your 3PDT switch is wired wrong if you followed the madbean diagram. The lugs need to be oriented horizontal when wiring everything up.
So pin 1 would be in the upper right hand corner?
Just depends on your starting point but rotate the stomp 90 degrees or 1/4 turn and do it that way.
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Quote from: jimilee on February 23, 2015, 11:38:37 PM
Just depends on your starting point but rotate the stomp 90 degrees or 1/4 turn and do it that way.
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I rotated the switch so that the Pin #1 was located in the upper right hand corner. I still get nothing but noise on either flip of the switch.
Gives us another picture please, clear and well lit.
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Yep, as said, the switch is incorrectly oriented. Unsolder everything from it, rotate it 90 degrees and solder it all back on.
The noise seems worse if that makes any sense. I rotated the switch clockwise 90 degree and re-soldered everything after drilling holes with a dremel tool.
That's the idea, but the switch is wired wrong. On the projects page of madbean pedals you'll find the standard wiring diagram.
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Quote from: jimilee on February 24, 2015, 09:51:58 PM
That's the idea, but the switch is wired wrong. On the projects page of madbean pedals you'll find the standard wiring diagram.
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Can you please elaborate? I have had this diagram in front of me the entire time.
I am using page 5 of this diagram as the reference for my pedal http://madbeanpedals.com/projects/Smoothie/Smoothie_2015.pdf . Are you saying my switch is still upside down? This is possibly the worst documentation I've ever had working on a project. I've successfully completed two other more expensive electronics projects with no issues. I am really not impressed.
Quote from: Frescalade on February 24, 2015, 11:07:40 PM
I am using page 5 of this diagram as the reference for my pedal http://madbeanpedals.com/projects/Smoothie/Smoothie_2015.pdf . Are you saying my switch is still upside down? This is possibly the worst documentation I've ever had working on a project. I've successfully completed two other more expensive electronics projects with no issues. I am really not impressed.
Wow bro you need a lesson in patience and etiquette. People are trying to help and you criticize.
So as said you do not have the switch wired correctly (per the very clear diagram on page 5 as you referred to). Pay attention to your output jack to start with. Isn't something wrong there?
Also the switch is pretty damn mangled, maybe iron is to hot?
This is the worst possible place to rip on madbean, man. If there is a problem with your build, it is your problem, not the instructions. Many, many of us have built many madbean projects successfully.
Take a break, come back to it tomorrow with a clear head and you will probably find your problem and solution more easily.
Have patience. This is not a quick and easy hobby to jump into.
Anyway...
I wouldnt be surprised if you overheated the footswitch. Its easy to do, especially if you are soldering, unsoldering, resoldering. I have done it a few times myself. Like I said, take a break, then check your wiring again. If you used switched jacks, which it looks like you did, be sure you used the correct solder points in the jacks. Make sure your wires are not frayed and shorting out. One tiny strand can cause problems.
Since those are plastic jacks is the box grounded? I've never used plastic jacks before so I'm just guessing at this one.
Also, since that stomp switch looks pretty thrashed, take a DMM and check for continuity between the lugs. Is there continuity between the middle rows and the outside lugs on one side and not on the other. Then hit it again and does that reverse.
Unless you're using different transistors aren't those in backwards?
That output jack like pryde said seems to be wired with the tip to ground.
One more. You are building a pedal many of us have built successfully using the documentation. I just looked at again and it is extremely clear.
Correct billstein.
I directed his attention to the output jack so he could find his own mistake with the grounded tip. I also suspect when he does get that fixed he may still have a problem with that buggered 3pdt.
To Frescalade: Let us know when you get the output jack fixed. The truth is this forum has the most helpful and giving members you will find on the interwebz. Lets get your pedal going then hang out and feel the love.
Thanks for the support. I probably should have bought a couple different colors of wire to help with that. The noise has been eliminated after switching tip and ground on the output. However, I still do not get a signal out of the amplifier in either channel and my LED does not light up.
Quote from: billstein on February 25, 2015, 02:24:21 AM
Unless you're using different transistors aren't those in backwards?
I used the alternative transistors as they were the only ones available on mouser.
Quote from: billstein on February 25, 2015, 02:24:21 AM
Also, since that stomp switch looks pretty thrashed, take a DMM and check for continuity between the lugs. Is there continuity between the middle rows and the outside lugs on one side and not on the other. Then hit it again and does that reverse.
I was able to verify continuity in all lugs EXCEPT the upper left and middle lug I had no continuity in either position. Is this bad? I did listen on my amp and when I switched to one of the switch positions I WAS able to hear some warbling in the slight white noise coming through, but for some reason my guitar is not incorporated in the signal.
Sounds to me like the effect is working, but your switch is toasted. Do you have a test rig yet? If you bypass the switch altogether you can easily tell if the switch is the problem.
The pinouts are different on the alternate JFets. Forgive me if that has been mentioned already.
Is there a way I could test it with just a couple alligator clips? Otherwise I'll go out and get a breadboard. I didn't understand how to test it before, but after reading how to do it, I think the switch is okay because there is continuity between each of the three center poles and each side of the top or bottom.
In the instructions it says if I use the 2N5952 transistor that I would have to put them in backwards which I did.
Quote from: Frescalade on February 25, 2015, 10:32:48 PM
Is there a way I could test it with just a couple alligator clips? Otherwise I'll go out and get a breadboard. I didn't understand how to test it before, but after reading how to do it, I think the switch is okay because there is continuity between each of the three center poles and each side of the top or bottom.
In the instructions it says if I use the 2N5952 transistor that I would have to put them in backwards which I did.
The quick and dirty way is to just flip them around (assuming you socketed the transistors).
The "correct" way is to get the data sheet for your exact transistors and know the pinout so you are SURE you have them oriented the right way.
It would also be helpful to get very clear and direct shots of the pcb front and back, as well as the newly wired 3PDT switch so we can have a good look.
Hang in there
I hesitate to switch the transistors as I am hearing that swirling warbling noise with the white noise signal coming through the amplifier. I am just thinking it is the circuit of the input jack not getting to the effect.
Maybe a to do list:
1. Carefully re-check EVERY wire connection to the diagram. I am sure you have done this but do it again to be 150% sure wiring is correct from pcb, jacks, 9v plug, and 3pdt.
2. Transistors: you still should (or must) verify the pinout and correct orientation.
3. After above, post DC voltages of all IC and transistor pins using multimeter to ground.
As said it looks like the switch took a thrashing from all the desoldering so it could be an issue but if you are sure you verified it working then focus on above steps.
I couldn't find a transistor wiring diagram, but here are the IC and transistor voltages.
IC1
1. 3.5v 2. 9.19v
3. 3.5v 4. 3.5v
5. 3.5v 6. 2.37v
7. 3.5v 8. 0v
IC2
1. 3.5v 2. 9.26v
3. 3.5v 4. varied from ~1.38v-8.5v
4. 3.5v 6. varied from ~3.8v-5.8v
7. 0v 8. varied from ~3.2v-5.6v
Q1
1. ~1v
2. 0v
3. 3.5v
Q2
1. ~1v
2. 0v
3. 3.5v
I found these pictures, which from the looks of it I am guessing requires me to change the way my transistors are pinned. Which also means the documentation was not in the least bit helpful if I am to take it literally that the transistor could be turned around 180 degrees in order to function.
Measure and re-list your IC voltages according to the diagram. The pin numbers are in a "U" shape starting top left as pin 1.
Re-list your transistor voltages using "gate" "source" and "drain" per the diagram you posted above.
BTW: If you did in fact use 2n5952 transistors, they should be in correct (flipped 180') BUT you should always use sockets for your transistors and ICs because:
a. they are really vulnerable to heat
b. they are a pain in the ass to remove if needed
c. sockets ensure quick swapping to experiment with different IC/transistor options
Quote from: Frescalade on February 26, 2015, 06:09:18 AM
I found these pictures, which from the looks of it I am guessing requires me to change the way my transistors are pinned. Which also means the documentation was not in the least bit helpful if I am to take it literally that the transistor could be turned around 180 degrees in order to function.
Right, we covered that early on, right?
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IC 1 IC2 Q1 Q2
1. 3.51v 8. 9.26v 1. 3.5v 8. 9.26v G 3.5v G 3.5v
2. 3.51v 7. 3.51v 2. 3.5v 7. 1.37-8.6v S 3.5v S 3.5v
3. 2.31v 6. 3.51v 3. 3.5v 6. 3.8-5.8v D .8-1v D .8-1v
4. 0v 5. 3.5v 4. 0v 5. 3.3-5.7v
Quote from: Frescalade on February 26, 2015, 04:38:35 PM
IC 1 IC2 Q1 Q2
1. 3.51v 8. 9.26v 1. 3.5v 8. 9.26v G 3.5v G 3.5v
2. 3.51v 7. 3.51v 2. 3.5v 7. 1.37-8.6v S 3.5v S 3.5v
3. 2.31v 6. 3.51v 3. 3.5v 6. 3.8-5.8v D .8-1v D .8-1v
4. 0v 5. 3.5v 4. 0v 5. 3.3-5.7v
THe LFO is working as you are getting oscillation. The gates of your transistors should be getting a tiny voltage swing not the drains (make sure you have the GSD correct when measuring.
What happens when you turn the trimmer? The phasing ONLY occurs in a very small window when turning the trim pot so do it slowly.
I am not sure what your latest "symptoms" are with the pedal so please let us know.
I hear the swirling noise change in the white noise coming through the amplifier, but there is still not guitar with it. There are also slight cracks and pops when testing.
Well sounds like it is time to build up an audio probe/test rig so you can trace signal to hear where it is going south in the circuit path.
If you have the pedal building bug then you really will need to build up a basic test rig either way so know is a good time. Here is a crude one you can build up at minimal cost using an old or scrap enclosure.
Also if you have not done so. disconnect your pcb in/out wires on the 3pdt switch and run them directy to the in/out jacks direct (thus bypassing the switch altogether) to rule out bad switch.