C1 - 10uF (negative side facing the input pad)
C2 - 100pF
C3 - 100uF
C4 - 5.6nF
C5 - 220nF
C6 - 4.7nF
C7 - 470pF
C8 - 220pF
C9 - 220pF
C10 - 100uF
C11 - 15nF
C12 - 3.3nF
C13 - 2nF
C14 - 100uF
C15 - 100nF
R1 - Omit
R2 - 56K
R3 - 100R
R4 - 470K
R5 - 10K
R6 - 820R
R7 - 100R
R8 - 56K
R9 - 100K
R10 - 56K
R11 - 10K
R12 - 2.7K
R13 - Omit
D1 - 1N5817
D2 - Omit
Q1-Q3 - BC109C
Everything else (pot values) are the same. I recommend a reverse log taper for the Fuzz pot but that is just me.
To complete this conversion you need to do two additional semi-tricky wiring things.
1) Wire a 100R resistor in series after D1. Everyone has probably wired two resistors in series, you use the same technique (and some heat shrink) and wire the final result where D1 goes.
2) Wire a 100K resistor from the base of Q1 to ground. This could get a little ugly. Because you are omitting the protection Zener diode (D2), you can use the empty square pad where D2 would go for the base connection. Connect one end of the 100K resistor to the square pad of D2 and the other end to the ground lug (1) of the fuzz pot (you will need to "jump" over R3). If you are using board mounted pots make the ground connection after the pots are soldered in (onto the little nub that sticks up), if not then solder the resistor in and just connect fuzz (1) to ground elsewhere (jack or another pot).
Hope that helps everyone out. Let me know if I made a mistake on the parts list or if there are questions about the wiring, this was generated using Marc Ahlfs' schematic on FSB.
Thanks for sharing!!
I'm guessing you didn't see this! :)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2150.0
It's good to see I was really close!
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on July 09, 2011, 03:06:01 PM
I'm guessing you didn't see this! :)
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=2150.0
It's good to see I was really close!
Ahhh, darn sorry about that Magic. I didn't see that, I should search next time :'(
It's all good. Your the one that originally brought it to my attention that's possible. Honestly I don't think the other guy saw it either. :)
As the other guy I cannot thank you BOTH enough for your hard work! I will do the build as soon as I'm back I'm town. You guys are both supremely helpful.
I love this forum/ and you guys are a big reason why. And the bean. Let's forget the BEAN.
I would give about any amount of pedals to
Sit around and have a few brews with all of you cats!
Anytime man, just glad to help out. As for brews, Madbean pedals convention? :D
I'm etching a board for this one right now! you guys rock!
(edit...) just finished testing it. sounds slammin' should have a build report soon.
Quote from: sprayfe on July 10, 2011, 04:21:03 AM
As the other guy I cannot thank you BOTH enough for your hard work! I will do the build as soon as I'm back I'm town. You guys are both supremely helpful.
I love this forum/ and you guys are a big reason why. And the bean. Let's forget the BEAN.
I would give about any amount of pedals to
Sit around and have a few brews with all of you cats!
It was fun. Always for learning! Now that I've built the LM I gotta try the SD.
Quote from: JakeFuzz on July 10, 2011, 05:17:28 PM
Anytime man, just glad to help out. As for brews, Madbean pedals convention? :D
I'm into it!
Quote from: cjkbug on July 10, 2011, 05:38:17 PM
I'm etching a board for this one right now! you guys rock!
(edit...) just finished testing it. sounds slammin' should have a build report soon.
That's rad. Which version did you build it to?
I used paul's, but I think they're about the same.
Just for clarification on 1) Wire a 100R resistor in series after D1. Everyone has probably wired two resistors in series, you use the same technique (and some heat shrink) and wire the final result where D1 goes.
is that wire the resistor in series with the 1n5817(d1)? and could i use a 1n4001 instead of the 1n5817?
SRART100 wrote:
"is that wire the resistor in series with the 1n5817(d1)? and could i use a 1n4001 instead of the 1n5817?"
Yes you could, but you have less voltage drop by using the 1N5817.
Mich P.