Hi guys
Not been building anything for months but couldnt resist getting in on the Total Recall
Here is my build, with Panasonic MN3005s, JRC4558s except the LFO (TL072), and wired true bypass. I also added a 1M trim for the input impendance mod.
I did have it wired with the vintage wiring but two things - I could hear the delay VERY quiet in the bypass tone, and I didnt like having the preamp always on.
It sounds very close to my 4xMN3008 big box reissue by EHX
Biasing was a bit of a pain, and I ended up doing it by ear/feel til it was the same as my big box, which I love the sound of. Therefore I dont know if its as "aligned" as Howard Davis would like but it sounds great to me.
Enjoy pics. Thanks 'Bean.
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Total%20Recall/IMG_3078_zpsil6glcnr.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Total%20Recall/IMG_3077_zpsoyedjgmk.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Total%20Recall/IMG_3079_zps3hirvs0j.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Total%20Recall/IMG_3080_zps2a1d7zib.jpg)
yes its in a tall box ::) :P
Hey, this is a great build, nice work!
I was curious about the cap selection. I always use Epcos box film caps or Panasonic film caps.
I've seen builds where, similar to yours, the film caps are all the small yellow ones. The only ones I know of that look like that are polarized tantalum caps.
What type of caps are those and why would some one choose those over a typical box film cap?
Thanks if you're able to provide a response, I'm just trying to continue to learn, thx!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi
These yellow ones are Multi Layer Ceramic Caps (MLCC)
There isnt any reason to choose these over box caps. Some people are really picky about caps, I'm not.
MLCC are readily available, reasonably economical, and make for uncluttered builds
you will note I did use a few film box caps for trickier values eg 1.2nF
If you look at some pro builds, eg Dr Scientist, they use MLCC caps. They arent always yellow from what I have experienced, but yellow is common.
I have a blue MLCC cap on the top right of the build which is 2.2uF non-polarised.
good luck have fun
Interestingly, I found that C32 plays a huge part in preventing leakage of the delay signal out of bypass mode. A 1uF film doesn't work. 10uF did the job on mine, but perhaps 22uF is the better choice. Best I can figure is it has something to do with ESR in the caps but I don't know for sure.
Quote from: madbean on April 07, 2016, 02:57:05 PM
Interestingly, I found that C32 plays a huge part in preventing leakage of the delay signal out of bypass mode. A 1uF film doesn't work. 10uF did the job on mine, but perhaps 22uF is the better choice. Best I can figure is it has something to do with ESR in the caps but I don't know for sure.
Hmm interesting. I must say it was extrremely faint and less fussy people would live with it / not notice it. and it was dependant on the trim pots, level and feedback settings of the pedal.
In any case, I think its more depends if you wish to have the preamp on, or true bypass.
I remember your big box reissue sounding really great from the comparison vid you did with the Dirtbaby. That's awesome if this has that sound. Looks great too--love those synth pointer #2.
Quote from: Bret608 on April 07, 2016, 08:39:56 PM
I remember your big box reissue sounding really great from the comparison vid you did with the Dirtbaby. That's awesome if this has that sound. Looks great too--love those synth pointer #2.
Yeah it has the sound in spades pal. anyone building this should not be disappointed.
the knobs are new in at Tayda, quite nice, but they only fit 6mm shafts. I had to use a 9mm pot for the level, and had to ream out the knob with a drill. wasnt a drama
Lace, what would you say are the tonal differences between the dirtbag vs the total recall?
Quote from: monkeyssj1 on April 08, 2016, 12:01:59 AM
Lace, what would you say are the tonal differences between the dirtbag vs the total recall?
well, for some reason my dirtbag was really dark sounding
and i dont have a good reason for that.
I havent played this side by side but, i did make a side-by-side of my DMM to dirtbag and dirtbaby, and this new Total recall sounds like the DMM...
Nice.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That came out great. This give me the push I needed to box up mine that I have. I got it from Jubal81 and I stuck some Xive MN3005's in it. Just need to box this bad boy up. Did you find it necessary to use a tall box or do you think if you "summon everything holy" you could squeeze it in a regular height box? I may get the calipers out and play with some measurements. lol
Cody
Very nice! I love the graphics.
Quote from: selfdestroyer on April 08, 2016, 02:48:20 AM
That came out great. This give me the push I needed to box up mine that I have. I got it from Jubal81 and I stuck some Xive MN3005's in it. Just need to box this bad boy up. Did you find it necessary to use a tall box or do you think if you "summon everything holy" you could squeeze it in a regular height box? I may get the calipers out and play with some measurements. lol
Cody
I dont genuinely know as I didnt try to make it happen, but my guess is that yes with the appropriate type of jacks (in, out, power) and clever positioning of the chorus/vibrato switch it could be done without much issue.
That is slick. Well done, man.
Very nice !
Nicely done!
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Quote from: selfdestroyer on April 08, 2016, 02:48:20 AM
Did you find it necessary to use a tall box or do you think if you "summon everything holy" you could squeeze it in a regular height box? I may get the calipers out and play with some measurements.
I don't know, man. Even if you used Lumbergs and the low-profile DC, I just don't see this fitting in a regular height.
The top edges of the PCB where the jacks would potentially foul arent paricularly component dense.
with careful consideration, and/or use of 9mm alpha pots, one could feasible mount a number of components on the underside of the PCB and then its completely doable in my opinion. without moving components, youd need to measure really well, and perhaps have to dremel the enclosure lid a bit.
Quote from: LaceSensor on April 08, 2016, 03:04:44 PM
The top edges of the PCB where the jacks would potentially foul arent paricularly component dense.
with careful consideration, and/or use of 9mm alpha pots, one could feasible mount a number of components on the underside of the PCB and then its completely doable in my opinion. without moving components, youd need to measure really well, and perhaps have to dremel the enclosure lid a bit.
Ah, didn't think about putting components on the underside. Good thought!
Here is an example of how it can work. The most consideration given would be the placement of the toggle switch, but its not impossible. You'd just have the power jack low profile and offset to the side.
This is an aqua puss build, note the pcb size is pretty identical and the upper limit where the jacks would be is similar too.
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/Aqua%20Puss/P1020641.jpg)
keen eyed will see that I had to dremel the lid around the jacks