Anyone have a good way to do touch up on a toner transfer to copper clad? I got 99% of the toner to stick but a tiny spot got screwed up. I'd hate to re-due it. I was thinking some nail polish maybe? My wife said she as a nail polish pen that has pretty good accuracy. I seem to recall nail polish will resist the ferric chloride. Any ideas?
A good sharpie can work. Testors enamel paint works very well. I believe nail polish will work but others can verify.
I often have to touch up toner transfers to copper clad and nearly all of them turn out fine.
Yep that will definitely work. It's also useful stuff to use on enclosures when etching if you either want to protect a large area quickly or touch up spots, just like you're doing here.
Good luck!
A fine tip sharpie always works for me.
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Hey thanks guys. I tired the sharpie and it seems kinda smudgy to me. the coverage doesn't seem as 'hearty' for a lack of a better word. Maybe I should let it dry and layer the sharpie a little bit. I also need a fair bit of accuracy. I'm about to etch a face plate, couple letters didn't turn out ideal.
Has anybody tried using litho crayons for this stuff? I've been considering giving them a try.
Quote from: jtaormina on August 02, 2016, 12:54:48 AM
Hey thanks guys. I tired the sharpie and it seems kinda smudgy to me. the coverage doesn't seem as 'hearty' for a lack of a better word. Maybe I should let it dry and layer the sharpie a little bit. I also need a fair bit of accuracy. I'm about to etch a face plate, couple letters didn't turn out ideal.
I've only used it for PCB traces. I do go over it a couple times to get it "darker". I haven't tried it with lettering. Could you remove the entire word and try re-applying the mask? I have reapplied sections of a layout with sucess before.
What everyone has said about Sharpie is true. Make it dark with a few 'layers' of Sharpie.
Please be mindful: we're talking about on copper clad with FeCl3 here. Sharpie or nail enamel (for da ladeeeez!) works fine with FeCl3. For enclosures, if using NaOH, neither work. (I realize that's a bit OT, but it's my $0.02 of knowledge for the morning.)
Thanks guys. I went with the sharpie trick using a fine tip and got pretty good edges. I was surprised the sharpie resisted the ferric chloride. A little smudgy but not real bad. A new sharpie worked pretty good. I heated the ferric chloride to about 95deg F which helped it etch much faster. Bottle said 135F but I got a little nervous with the stuff. I'm pretty new with it. I actually spilled a little on an aluminum tray I use in my junk toaster oven for powder coating and it of course took off chewing it right up. Pft. Anyway it worked well. I'll post some finished pics after I get it liquid tinned and envirotext covered.
Thanks to Cody for your etching guide and Stomptown for a link to it!!
I use the Action Marker they sell at Small Bear. IMO, it works way better than a Sharpie cuz you only need to hit it once.