I've finished many enclosures with spray paint and just prepped them by hand-sanding. For the most part,
they turned out very well. But I always wanted to know how to get a really shiny, polished finish. Even using
several grits ( 100-220-400-600-1000 ) I couldn't get a smooth surface.
So tonight, I picked up this inexpensive sanding block and I'm amazed at the difference. I've only used 220 and 320
so far on a 125B and it already looks better than any previous attempts. I never knew what a difference the block made.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Allway-Rubber-Sanding-Block/20682691 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Allway-Rubber-Sanding-Block/20682691)
DIY money well spent !
At the guitar building class we use leftover guitar cutaways as sanding blocks. I don't think you can get more DIY then that. ;)
CPU lapping uses a sheet of glass, from memory, for a perfectly flat sanded CPU top.
I just got a few things from my deceased grandfather's workshop including an electric triangle sander. Put it to good use already. Got some leftover piece of wallnut from a local carpenter for the sides of my HiFi amp that needed cutting, thining and sanding.
Thanks for the tip! I had thought about picking one of these up at Menard's but the Walmart version costs even less (that's to be expected, I guess!).
Sanding sponges work really well too, both on enclosures as well as cleaning up PCBs, using as work surfaces, etc.
The reason I bought the sanding block was to help with enclosure etching. So I took the plunge
and went out and bought some supplies and started on the learning curve. After totally botching
the first attempt, I had better success with attempt #2. The toner didn't transfer so well, so I
sanded it back and did another transfer on it. This time, I got a good result. Sprayed some flat black
and let it dry overnight. Just wet-sanded off the paint this morning, and the etch came out really nice !
Very excited and pleased with the results. Thanks to the many individuals who have shared their wisdom
and experience. And also, thanks to all who've inspired me with their excellent etches.
( Sorry for the lack of pics as I have no camera setup )
I'm a huge fan of sanding blocks also. I use rubber ones when preping enclosures for etching/painting. But I found I get better results with harder sanding blocks when sanding my reverse etches. The rubber ones tend to flex and burns/sands my painted area and not just the raised areas. I actually found that a small iPhone charger (I literally had one sitting on my bench and said "that will be perfect" and gave it a try) was a hard plastic and small for detail sanding on revered etches.
I detail it out here:
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2499 (http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2499)
prepare to laugh:
(http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/paint_4.jpg)
Cody
I gained a fair amount of experience sanding metal to a polished edged when restoring old tools and polishing out edges in asian style cooking knives. The edges turn out like a mirror. Diamond blocks are preferred for durability but japanese whetstones also work well. Not sure this could be used with enclosure sanding, could end up destroying the diamond / whetstone.
The final step of sharpenign is polishing and for that i use a leather strop and some polishing compound. this could be a good final stage to try for enclosure polishing, but i wonder if the alluminium used for these 'economy' enclosures could ever get to that level of polish...anyway just thinking out loud really...
Quote from: alanp on August 17, 2016, 08:56:31 AM
CPU lapping uses a sheet of glass, from memory, for a perfectly flat sanded CPU top.
I used to OC but that's hardcore