I've come across a few builders having issues with charge pumps they bought at Tayda in the last few months (as in they were total junk). I'd advise sticking to reliable sources for the MAX1044CPA, TC1044SCPA, LT1054 and ICL7660SCPA such as Mouser, smallbear, Digikey, and the more reliable overseas vendors. FYI.
Quote from: madbean on January 25, 2017, 08:22:03 PM
I've come across a few builders having issues with charge pumps they bought at Tayda in the last few months (as in they were total junk). I'd advise sticking to reliable sources for the MAX1044CPA, TC1044SCPA, LT1054 and ICL7660SCPA such as Mouser, smallbear, Digikey, and the more reliable overseas vendors. FYI.
Sounds like the typical Tayda story. I actually bought a bunch of pumps from them when they first came out with them in 12-13 (?) and they all worked fine. They get the first batch of good ones to get you in the door....
I wonder if I'm in the same boat. I purchased a bunch when I first started building (2 or 3 years ago). I don't think I've used a single one...maybe I should test them somehow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I bought my last batch of 7660's through RS components, work a treat and were really cheap from memory
I haven't had any problems but probably better luck than good management. I tend to stick with SB when it comes to this sort of thing but the pumps I've bought from Tayda have been good. Shame that it's so hit and miss though.
I had issues with charge pumps from Tayda
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've had a bit of trouble with there tc1044scpa here and there. They aren't particularly cheap either. I most likely saw they weren't dirt cheap and thought 'they must be real/non faulty for that sort of coin'. Wrong again!
I do have a max1044cpa here from Tayda that I am to use for a Mangler build, hoping for better, not confident. That Tayda feeling again.
Good advice Madbean,stay away from 'em.
Quote from: Jules on January 26, 2017, 10:29:40 AM
I've had a bit of trouble with there tc1044scpa here and there. They aren't particularly cheap either. I most likely saw they weren't dirt cheap and thought 'they must be real/non faulty for that sort of coin'. Wrong again!
Exactly my thought. And I ran into troubles too.
I don't find Tayda's prices on charge pumps to be that great. What I've done in the past is check newark.com periodically to find when they go on sale and check arrow.com. Arrow has free shipping in the US and sometimes their prices are pretty good if you can put up with their UI.
For US, they can be had for $0.93 each for 10 qty @ Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology/TC1044SCPA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtitjHzVIkrqb%252b3sqw9QqsEawc5Q%2fV3uoE%3d
Quote from: EBRAddict on January 26, 2017, 01:04:22 PM
I don't find Tayda's prices on charge pumps to be that great. What I've done in the past is check newark.com periodically to find when they go on sale and check arrow.com. Arrow has free shipping in the US and sometimes their prices are pretty good if you can put up with their UI.
The arrow ui is not fun to deal with. I didn't realize they have free shipping though. That might make it worth the headache.
The list of parts I feel ok getting from Tayda continues its nose dive. Soon I'll be down to like 8-pin sockets at which time I'd hafta ask, what's the point?
Quote from: madbean on January 26, 2017, 01:25:13 PM
For US, they can be had for $0.93 each for 10 qty @ Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Microchip-Technology/TC1044SCPA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtitjHzVIkrqb%252b3sqw9QqsEawc5Q%2fV3uoE%3d
This is always what I've done. Considering the price, there's no real reason not to buy the better part from the better supplier. It's not like they're $6 each vs $.50, it's still a good deal from Mouser.
Jacob
Quote from: mrclean77 on January 26, 2017, 04:00:48 PM
Soon I'll be down to like 8-pin sockets at which time I'd hafta ask, what's the point?
Sure i saw a recent thread elsewhere warning about those too, they were looking for the good ones.
dave
I'm not sure the technical reason but i have experienced the following problem with charge pumps: Using a low current charge pump (say tc1044) in a low current drawing pedal in conjunction with a higher current drawing pedal with a higher current handling charge pump (say FSH with LT1054) can cause the lower current charge pump to burn out. I suspect perhaps the lower current handling charge pump is forced to draw the same current as the high current handling charge pump when in line??? Its happened a few times to me in the past. Something to consider if you get one that burns out (all charge pumps were ordered from reputable dealers)
My last load of 8 pin sockets was awful. The guts pull out when you pull out the chip.
Quote from: gordo on January 27, 2017, 03:09:12 AM
My last load of 8 pin sockets was awful. The guts pull out when you pull out the chip.
Huh mine too! I happened to use one on a build where I needed to check 5 mn3207
To make sure they weren't fakes and the guts of the sockets were starting to hang out everywhere after about 3 chips. I will only buy the milled type from Tayda from now on but won't be suprised if they are problematic too.
Quote from: EBRAddict on January 26, 2017, 01:04:22 PM
I don't find Tayda's prices on charge pumps to be that great. What I've done in the past is check newark.com periodically to find when they go on sale and check arrow.com. Arrow has free shipping in the US and sometimes their prices are pretty good if you can put up with their UI.
The problem I have is they stop working not the pricing.
I have always preferred the "leaf"/cheaper kind of sockets as compared to the milled kind - not sure why, I think I have an easier time getting the chips in there, but I can't remember ever having to go in/out with anything a bunch of times, so I may have just been lucky thus far.
With either type, the IC legs still have to be bent to right angles and THAT is where my 'hands-not-made-for-this-kinda-stuff' can really wreak havoc.
Quote from: mrclean77 on January 27, 2017, 04:46:31 PM
I have always preferred the "leaf"/cheaper kind of sockets as compared to the milled kind - not sure why, I think I have an easier time getting the chips in there, but I can't remember ever having to go in/out with anything a bunch of times, so I may have just been lucky thus far.
With either type, the IC legs still have to be bent to right angles and THAT is where my 'hands-not-made-for-this-kinda-stuff' can really wreak havoc.
For pcb's the cheaper leaf type works best, for vero however I prefer the milled kind, as they work better with the links running underneath them.