Here's another Maple Drive, very proud of this one. Focusing on making the inside clean and easy to look at.
(http://i.imgur.com/uAKXIrN.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/4bqVn5X.jpg?1)
Also I included a sound demo for those of you interested. Please let me know what you think, thank you!
Nice job. Good video demo - very detailed!
That looks great inside and out!
Quote from: Tuxedo3 on March 26, 2017, 11:38:33 PM
Focusing on making the inside clean and easy to look at.
Well, goal achieved! and nice demo, too. I can sympathize with being a builder rather than a player
For embedding YT videos you either need to remove the s from https:// or just insert the code after "=" into [youtub(e)][/youtub(e)]. No()
Definitely achieved cleanliness and easy-to-look-at guts! The Bluesbreaker circuit seems to be much more versatile than I gave it credit for being in the short time I kept a build around - the vid makes me interested again. I am way more of a builder than a player these days. Although, skill-wise, that ain't sayin' much, I do start to feel a little guilty when I think about how much time I spend tinkering vs woodshedding.
Sheer curiosity: what is D2/why is it omitted?
Quote from: m-Kresol on March 27, 2017, 05:13:15 PM
For embedding YT videos you either need to remove the s from https:// or just insert the code after "=" into [youtub(e)][/youtub(e)]. No()
Awesome, this worked. Thank you!
Quote from: mrclean77 on March 28, 2017, 01:01:13 PM
Sheer curiosity: what is D2/why is it omitted?
Good question. It is supposed to be a P6KE120, which are just a pain to find without spend like $1 per diode. I talked with some guys on another post and it is technically not needed, so I omitted it until I find a better replacement.
Try it at 18V if you haven't yet. Makes all the difference in a bluesbreaker circuit!
Quote from: Rockhorst on March 28, 2017, 08:53:07 PM
Try it at 18V if you haven't yet. Makes all the difference in a bluesbreaker circuit!
I would love to! Do I need to make any modifications to be able to run at 18v?
As long as your caps are rated high enough it should be fine. 25V rating is preferred, but I regularly use 16V caps in pedals running at 18V. As long as your mindful of the place the cap is in power signal chain, it could be ok. If you want to be completely save, use 25V or higher rating.
The trick is that the BB circuit starts with a lot of opamp gain before any clipping of the signal. Running the unit at 18V gives it a lot more headroom and reduces any potential nasty frequencies from the opamp clipping (opamp clipping is usually perceived as quite ugly). In a TubeScreamer type of design the signal is clipped in the first opamp stage and stays way below the rail supply voltage applied to the opamp. So it doesn't make much sense to run a TS on 18V. But with a BB, 18V opens it up really nicely. For me it was the difference between 'meh' and 'wow' when I first build a BB. Was very unimpressed and ready to toss the unit when playing it at 9V or 12V. From about 15V to 18V it really started to shine.
great job! that offboard wiring is inspirationally clean, if there's any secrets to lining it all up and getting the lengths right please tell
Quote from: oip on March 28, 2017, 10:28:11 PM
great job! that offboard wiring is inspirationally clean, if there's any secrets to lining it all up and getting the lengths right please tell
Not my build, but it's basically a matter of putting everything in the box with one side of every wire attached. Measure, cut, solder the other end. Board mounted pots help a lot to keep the clean look.
Rockhorst pretty much nailed it from my perspective. It's a long process but worth it. What made the difference for me is using 22 gauge wire. It's easier to bend in order to stay a certain angles. Highly recommended.
Quote from: Tuxedo3 on March 28, 2017, 03:30:15 PM
Quote from: mrclean77 on March 28, 2017, 01:01:13 PM
Sheer curiosity: what is D2/why is it omitted?
Good question. It is supposed to be a P6KE120, which are just a pain to find without spend like $1 per diode. I talked with some guys on another post and it is technically not needed, so I omitted it until I find a better replacement.
Pretty sure that diode is only there for reverse current protection. You could use a 1N4001 in its place or even a smaller 1N914/1N4148
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on March 29, 2017, 03:29:31 PM
Quote from: Tuxedo3 on March 28, 2017, 03:30:15 PM
Quote from: mrclean77 on March 28, 2017, 01:01:13 PM
Sheer curiosity: what is D2/why is it omitted?
Good question. It is supposed to be a P6KE120, which are just a pain to find without spend like $1 per diode. I talked with some guys on another post and it is technically not needed, so I omitted it until I find a better replacement.
Pretty sure that diode is only there for reverse current protection. You could use a 1N4001 in its place or even a smaller 1N914/1N4148
Funny also that the usual 'Boss' type of polarity protection protects nothing. The 1N4001 will burn out within a second of using the wrong power supply and after that the active components (opamp in this case) is toast. Using something higher, like a 1N4007 that I scored a bunch of, will help you last a little longer, possibly indefinitely. Brian's scheme, using a 1N5817 in series, is much safer though.