I'm FINALLY finishing up my Doubel Ganger 2.1d build but I'm confused about something in the build doc. On the wiring guide there is a note under the Output jack that says "Shield connect to GND at Output Sleeve" and there looks to be a jumper drawn in between the tip and sleeve of the jack. Maybe it's me (probably) but I'm confused by what that all means. Can someone help clarify for me?
You're using shielded wire and the shield (copper braided wire on the outside) is separated from the core and attached to the sleeve connection on the output jack. The core wire is attached to the tip connection.
Thanks, Droogie. Is it just that one wire that's supposed to be shielded then? It looks like there are a couple other shielded wires in the photo but I think maybe those are for the pedal jacks that I don't plan on using. And, do you have a good source I could get a few inches of shielded wire from because I don't have any shielded at all.
With careful jack placement and a bit of luck, you can get away with no shielded wire. Don't be too surprised if you have to replace wires with shielded, though, if you do get noise or crosstalk.
I believe small bear has the correct size shielded wire by the foot.
Thanks again. I'll check into Small Bear. Another quick question- Should I be able to test this like any other pedal on my test box before boxing it up? I plugged the thing in to my test box this morning and I get no signal with the pedal on, only in bypass. Before I start the troubleshooting, I want to make sure there isn't some reason my standard 4 wire test box won't work.
Not sure that the usual test rig set up would function properly. I would wire all three foot switches in/out power jacks to test.
I wired in the jacks and still nothing with the pedal on so I'm going to have to do some checking. Darn.
Do you have LEDs blinking?
Did you wire the true bypass/non true bypass switch (forgot the name of it)
I do. The green LEDs light up and change frequency and intensity and the red LED lights up when I push the right stomp switch. It looks like it's dying to work for me but I need to figure out where the signal goes astray.
I did do the revised wiring on the switches due to the fabrication error so that should be ok.
Ok. Sounds like it's time to bust out the audio probe