A while back, a friend of mine asked if I would do a mini Jan Ray Vemuram. Since I had already done a Timmy layout, I agreed to modify it and get a few boards made. I finally got around to making artwork for it and building one up. I really like the way the build looks, I'm still not sure I'm sold on the circuit yet. So far, I prefer the Timmy, but I haven't played enough with this yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/0KzL1Ux.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZCLnw9J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FqLAjoi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ULnRQIX.jpg)
FWIW, this is my etching fixture for laser engraving. The box screws to the fixture to hold it in a defined place.
(https://i.imgur.com/bwaifgq.jpg)
Awesome build as always. Do you have spare pcbs, I would like to buy one if possible..
Cheers
Brane
Quote from: brejna on November 06, 2017, 12:57:38 PM
Awesome build as always. Do you have spare pcbs, I would like to buy one if possible..
Cheers
Brane
I have two or three. I didn't buy many. If you want one, shoot me a PM
As always, that's a great looking build. Nice work with the engraver template too.
MAN that thing looks perfect!
Awesome.
Insane levels of perfection as usual.
Looks beautiful! I like how the rays bend over the top.
Love the simplicity of the artwork. still optically very effective.
Amazing build as always
==
here the question came :D
are you always use flying wire the pots? and not stranded?
Quote from: 287m on November 06, 2017, 06:37:56 PM
Amazing build as always
==
here the question came :D
are you always use flying wire the pots? and not stranded?
It is stranded wire. I use 3-conductor stranded ribbon wire to go from the board to the pots. It's Amphenol Spectra-Flex. I used 4-conductor Spectra-Flex to go from the PCB to the 3PDT switch board. The rest of the wire is Small Bear pre-bond wire. That stuff is great to work with.
Looks awesome! I love the depth around the laser work. Nice work on the jig for holding the pedal. Is there a defined spot for aiming the laser at or is it just the top right corner?
Stellar as always.
Quote from: Martan on November 07, 2017, 03:45:24 PM
Looks awesome! I love the depth around the laser work. Nice work on the jig for holding the pedal. Is there a defined spot for aiming the laser at or is it just the top right corner?
The laser itself always references to the upper left corner. The problem with that is that there is a little bit of variability in the enclosures themselves, especially after powder coat.
The advantage of the fixture is that it puts the screws in a defined location so I can use the center of the enclosure as the focal point. This theoretically will help center the artwork even if there is a bit of dimensional variation.
There is still the issue of the laser calibration itself changing over time. The best way is to do a full recalibration of the bed regularly, but that's very time consuming and easy to get wrong. Instead, I offset the fixture with a 1x1 spacer. Periodically, I recut a new spacer. Even if it's not truly at the 1x1 reference point, the software thinks it is so it still works.
Your pedals are cleaner, prettier and better made than any production pedal i've ever owned. This is no exception. Wonderful work.
This is fantastic as usual
Love the bare metal peaking through the graphic! Did you mask off the enclosure and then paint, or paint the sides and use a decal on top?
Quote from: Aleph Null on November 08, 2017, 08:30:15 PM
Love the bare metal peaking through the graphic! Did you mask off the enclosure and then paint, or paint the sides and use a decal on top?
It was a fully powder coated enclosure and I removed the powder via laser.
Damn, that's sexy.
great build as always pickdropper!
if i may ask, how do you decide on which capacitors are multi-layered ceramics or film?
or just random?
Quote from: pie.key on November 09, 2017, 03:34:20 PM
great build as always pickdropper!
if i may ask, how do you decide on which capacitors are multi-layered ceramics or film?
or just random?
My default is to use MLCC for less than 1nF as I can use C0G or NP0 caps (which work great). For caps between 1nF and 1uF in the signal path, I prefer film caps, but there are times in the smaller builds where that isn't practical, so sometimes I use x7r MLCC caps.
For larger than 1uF, I usually use Electrolytics as they are usually not in the signal path. Occasionally, if they are, I'll use MLCC caps there instead.
Nice! I really like these knobs, very clean build as usual I am impressed !
Btw, thanks for all the kind words, everybody. I appreciate it.