I have always struggled with drilling enclosures. What is your process?
Any tips?
I found it useful to lay things out in Inkscape (free vector graphics software)
https://inkscape.org/en/
using the Pedal Builder's Vector Art Pack from OTRFX:
http://www.ontheroadeffects.com/vectorpack/
The vector pack contains to-scale drawings of each component, inside and out, and also contains scaled outlines of 1590B and 1590BB enclosures. By dragging stuff around, you can see what fits where.
I have separate layers for components (inside), components (outside), drill template, knobs, labels, graphics, enclosure outline, enclosure top, with everything aligned to a set of guides.
When I want a drill template, I export the file as a pdf with only the enclosure outline and drill template layers.
I use a CAD program that i've drawn up enclosure templates for the various sizes of enclosures i use. I build the template with those print it out attach it to the enclosure, center punch and drill.
For design/decoration i print the CAD created template to pdf and then open the pdf in Inkscape to go about the aesthetic part.
The CAD is so much easier to use for the template where the inkscape excels at the art and lettering.
Based my templates on a Geofex articles that contains a 1590bb enclosure and parts that can probably be opened in inkscape and used to design the template.
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/boxtemplate.htm
http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/hmbbtpt.pdf
dave
Bean, guitarpcb and GGG templates, and, if all else fails, I lay components on the enclosure and get my pencil out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use an old copy of Photoshop pre-CC. I convert a few pdf templates into Photoshop.
THE biggest help is using a center punch and creating started holes with 1/16 bit. Then I use a metric step bit to bore out the rest.
I guess I'm old school. I never use the supplied layouts. I solder everything together. Make sure it works. Bust out the pencil and ruler. Put painters tape on the box and mark everything. Then step bit. Works Everytime. Doesn't take much time.
Quote from: jimilee on December 25, 2017, 07:17:08 PM
Bean, guitarpcb and GGG templates, and, if all else fails, I lay components on the enclosure and get my pencil out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This
I use a combination square. Generally I take the measurements off the back of the bird if it shows where the pots are. Occasionally I'll build everything up and the measure from the pots and switches themselves.
Then as mentioned above, masking tape, stepping but and a fine tip marker.
One trick I do is to make sure that my punch centermark on my layout is really small. I will put a piece of scotch tape over the centermarks that way my center punch doesn't slip cause it kind of digs into the tape before I actually punch it.
I cropped the enclosure base layouts from mammoth, and use photoshop and the vector artpack linked earlier.
I will put either the PCB drill template (if using board mounted pots) or a rectangle the same size as the vero (if not) in as a layer, and work out my template as per above.
I'll print that up, and tape it to the top of the enclosure, and then use a right angle to square up the rows. I usually end up with something like the image below that I use for drilling. Getting a label printed is simply a case of hiding the layers that have hardware on them. I always drill with a step bit and a drill press.
Willy.
Quote from: EBK on December 25, 2017, 04:49:05 PM
I found it useful to lay things out in Inkscape (free vector graphics software)
https://inkscape.org/en/
using the Pedal Builder's Vector Art Pack from OTRFX:
http://www.ontheroadeffects.com/vectorpack/
The vector pack contains to-scale drawings of each component, inside and out, and also contains scaled outlines of 1590B and 1590BB enclosures. By dragging stuff around, you can see what fits where.
I have separate layers for components (inside), components (outside), drill template, knobs, labels, graphics, enclosure outline, enclosure top, with everything aligned to a set of guides.
When I want a drill template, I export the file as a pdf with only the enclosure outline and drill template layers.
I do pretty much the same thing. Inkscape has a bit of a learning curve, but once you get used to it, it's quite versatile.
( and it's free ). Using the vectorpack, it's pretty easy to make some basic graphics for a pedal and then grab images of the net
to add to your decals. Once you've got one done, it's easy to just grab that and modify it for the next pedal. You can make decals
from the prints/pdfs, and you can also reverse the black/white colors for doing enclosure etches.
Quote from: Matmosphere on December 25, 2017, 11:50:48 PM
I use a combination square. Generally I take the measurements off the back of the bird if it shows where the pots are. Occasionally I'll build everything up and the measure from the pots and switches themselves.
Then as mentioned above, masking tape, stepping but and a fine tip marker.
How do you get the bird to stay still?
(Sorry, I couldn't help myself) 8-))
What a great bunch of information! This shows the incredible value of the madbean forum members. I'll have to study this and put a method together. Thanks to all of you and please if anyone else wants to post please continue! So very helpful..
QuoteI do pretty much the same thing. Inkscape has a bit of a learning curve, but once you get used to it, it's quite versatile.
( and it's free ). Using the vectorpack, it's pretty easy to make some basic graphics for a pedal and then grab images of the net
to add to your decals. Once you've got one done, it's easy to just grab that and modify it for the next pedal. You can make decals
from the prints/pdfs, and you can also reverse the black/white colors for doing enclosure etches.
Yep. Once you have a DD/125b/BB sorted, you can reuse the basic jack/plug/switch layouts 99% of the time.
I'm a CAD designer by day so if I need a custom drill template I use Autocad. That's easy for me since I have access to the program. A good free alternative to Autocad is Draftsight. It's basically an Autocad clone. Also if you're looking for CAD files I know you can get pretty much any enclosure you need straight from the Hammond website. Switchcraft also has files for their jacks. You can get 2d and 3d files from both of the mentioned web sites. After that all you really would need is something for the DC jack and for potentiometers.
I use Front Panel Designer, it is really good for this particular process.
But I like customize every template for every pedal, not totally. Then I export the tamplate and use the vector pack to draw the graphic.
When I drill by hand the boxes I use very caution, I measure the holes and its position with a ruler and verify the encumbrance of the component as possibile. Sometime I have to do some adjustment and redraw the graphic.
Then I print the graphic on normal paper to verify the position of the holes, the text, etc.
My tools are very simple, so I have to do the things with care. But I'm growing up. 8)
I do it in Photoshop (purely because I've been using it forever, I'm positive there are better options these days). There's a building multi's tutorial on my site where I go into how I do them here: http://juansolo.co.uk/stompage/multibuild.html
I trace and measure the board the draw it up on to graph paper. Works fine but reading other replies makes me wonder about using a computer....
My first preference is always to use the drill template provided with the build document, if there is one. But I always print it and double check it against the PCB to make sure there is no scaling issue. Then I usually do a screenshot of that part of the PDF and drop it into my decal design, resizing as necessary to make sure it matches up. I use Apple's word processor app Pages to design my decals. I made a Pages version of the Vector Pack that has the bare necessities in it to get me going—enclosures, switches, a couple knobs.
For me, I always print full face decals, and I want to make sure that the drill template portion of the design sits in the right spot on the enclosure. So eventually, a regular paper printout of the decal itself becomes my drill template.
If I'm building on vero or a PCB that doesn't use board mounted pots, there's a little more wiggle room for placement, but of course I still want everything to be proportional, so the process is pretty similar.