Very nice spring reverb emulation here, and I don't say that lightly since I'm a sucker for old school reverb.
I think it does it very well and I do have a Deluxe Reverb amp clone and a ReVibe free standing tube driven spring reverb unit to compare.
Came together well on a pedalpcb.com board, the belton brick is hidden under the board. So as the Belton brick is I believe basically 3 x PT2399 in one enclosure and the then one PT2399 on the pcb itself this circuit employs a total of four of them to get a nice haunting springy reverb.
Relay bypass by 1776 fx, acrylic faceplate over laser decal as I usually roll these days.
(https://i.imgur.com/vyNVuUU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1IRvCq5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xLuJJkR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rikUrky.jpg)
You're on a roll, Stevo!
So do you put your decals onto the enclosure, then acrylic on top, or do you put the decal on the back of the acrylic?
Quote from: mjg on August 14, 2018, 07:47:41 AM
So do you put your decals onto the enclosure, then acrylic on top, or do you put the decal on the back of the acrylic?
Decal onto sanded enclosure, let dry, face plate on top and screwed down.
That also means I could take face plate off without loosing decal, make a new face plate and stick it back on, in case the face plate gets messed up over time.
Cool. Yeah that makes sense.
Looks good by the way, as always!
You're screwing with my productivity - my work day is now starting with 'what pedal has Cooder made now?'
Ha! Nice work again, as usual.
That's really sharp. I'm digging the face plate, really speeds up the process. Is that just acrylic? You should whip up a tutorial on that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A really great series you have going here Cooder. Nice job!
Quote from: mrclean77 on August 14, 2018, 10:34:47 AM
You're screwing with my productivity - my work day is now starting with 'what pedal has Cooder made now?'
Ha! Nice work again, as usual.
Ha... the pressure is on then. What will it be tomorrow!?!
Quote from: jimilee on August 14, 2018, 10:48:16 AM
That's really sharp. I'm digging the face plate, really speeds up the process. Is that just acrylic? You should whip up a tutorial on that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If Jimi asks for it I'll better get onto it... keep your ears peeled.
Quote from: jimilee on August 14, 2018, 10:48:16 AM
That's really sharp. I'm digging the face plate, really speeds up the process. Is that just acrylic? You should whip up a tutorial on that.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There you go, Boss....
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=28358.msg274895#msg274895 (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=28358.msg274895#msg274895)
Update on this as I had it on my board for a bit:
Sounds great, however built stock it has a small volume drop when engaged, certainly enough to annoy me.
Simple solution is to increase R4 from 10K to 15K (or whatever value you find right in your setup).
15K worked great for me, seems now unity gain when engaged.
It's a similar fix as on the also excellent sounding spring reverb, the 1776 fx rub-a-dub.
Josh describes this in his build doc there and I applied this here too and works just as well.
Pedal is back on board and it's all good.
IHope that helps anyone who might build this too in case you find the same issue.
Great build! I'm wondering if the relay bypass allows for reverb trails to continue after the pedal is bypassed?
Quote from: benny_profane on September 06, 2018, 11:19:40 PM
Great build! I'm wondering if the relay bypass allows for reverb trails to continue after the pedal is bypassed?
Nope.
For reverb tails it would need a buffered bypass AFAIK. Cheers.
Quote from: cooder on September 07, 2018, 05:48:20 AM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 06, 2018, 11:19:40 PM
Great build! I'm wondering if the relay bypass allows for reverb trails to continue after the pedal is bypassed?
Nope.
For reverb tails it would need a buffered bypass AFAIK. Cheers.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm about to work on this build myself and was hoping there was an easy solution to the tails issue. I don't have much experience with relay bypasses/buffered bypasses yet.
Quote from: benny_profane on September 07, 2018, 01:34:02 PM
Quote from: cooder on September 07, 2018, 05:48:20 AM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 06, 2018, 11:19:40 PM
Great build! I'm wondering if the relay bypass allows for reverb trails to continue after the pedal is bypassed?
Nope.
For reverb tails it would need a buffered bypass AFAIK. Cheers.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm about to work on this build myself and was hoping there was an easy solution to the tails issue. I don't have much experience with relay bypasses/buffered bypasses yet.
A great sounding reverb with tails / buffered bypass is the 'dead astronaut' project "Abyss" reverb, I have built that one as well: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27899.0 (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27899.0)
Not sure who currently does pcbs for that, maybe Robert aka 'dead astronaut' offer some.
Quote from: cooder on September 08, 2018, 01:15:44 AM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 07, 2018, 01:34:02 PM
Quote from: cooder on September 07, 2018, 05:48:20 AM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 06, 2018, 11:19:40 PM
Great build! I'm wondering if the relay bypass allows for reverb trails to continue after the pedal is bypassed?
Nope.
For reverb tails it would need a buffered bypass AFAIK. Cheers.
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm about to work on this build myself and was hoping there was an easy solution to the tails issue. I don't have much experience with relay bypasses/buffered bypasses yet.
A great sounding reverb with tails / buffered bypass is the 'dead astronaut' project "Abyss" reverb, I have built that one as well: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27899.0 (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=27899.0)
Not sure who currently does pcbs for that, maybe Robert aka 'dead astronaut' offer some.
Thanks! That's been on my radar for awhile, but I might need to take the plunge and build one for myself.
Quote from: cooder on August 20, 2018, 12:58:48 AM
Update on this as I had it on my board for a bit:
Sounds great, however built stock it has a small volume drop when engaged, certainly enough to annoy me.
Simple solution is to increase R4 from 10K to 15K (or whatever value you find right in your setup).
15K worked great for me, seems now unity gain when engaged.
It's a similar fix as on the also excellent sounding spring reverb, the 1776 fx rub-a-dub.
Josh describes this in his build doc there and I applied this here too and works just as well.
Pedal is back on board and it's all good.
IHope that helps anyone who might build this too in case you find the same issue.
Thank you for this. The drop on mine wasnt too bad, but the mod added a bit more sparkle. I went with the short brick for the springiest and least modulated sound. I dont care for the long and ambient stuff. I wish i could control the delay repeats, and that i could get a little shorter delay, but otherwise i think it is a better spring verb/echo than the radium springs fv-1 project. I need this sound for a Lee Hazlewood vocal project
I noticed that you used 78L05 voltage regulators rather than L7805 regulators in your build. The BOM called for the L7805 but the PCB looks like it's intended for 78L05's. If I'm not mistaken, the pinouts between the two are flipped. If I use the L7805's, should I have them oriented so that the metal tab is on the side toward R13 and R18? Thanks!
Quote from: benny_profane on September 14, 2018, 06:33:27 PM
I noticed that you used 78L05 voltage regulators rather than L7805 regulators in your build. The BOM called for the L7805 but the PCB looks like it's intended for 78L05's. If I'm not mistaken, the pinouts between the two are flipped. If I use the L7805's, should I have them oriented so that the metal tab is on the side toward R13 and R18? Thanks!
Yes I did use the small body 78L05 as suggested by silkscreen, I assume the L7805 in BOM is more a typo. Works not problem, I used one from Tayda
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html)
I guess if you want to use the big body higher current one best is to check data sheet for pinout comparison, from the top of my head you are right about orientation flip, but I always check stuff like that before I chuck it in.
Quote from: cooder on September 15, 2018, 11:01:09 PM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 14, 2018, 06:33:27 PM
I noticed that you used 78L05 voltage regulators rather than L7805 regulators in your build. The BOM called for the L7805 but the PCB looks like it's intended for 78L05's. If I'm not mistaken, the pinouts between the two are flipped. If I use the L7805's, should I have them oriented so that the metal tab is on the side toward R13 and R18? Thanks!
Yes I did use the small body 78L05 as suggested by silkscreen, I assume the L7805 in BOM is more a typo. Works not problem, I used one from Tayda
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html)
I guess if you want to use the big body higher current one best is to check data sheet for pinout comparison, from the top of my head you are right about orientation flip, but I always check stuff like that before I chuck it in.
Thanks for the reply! Yeah, I believe the BOM has a typo. I had made my parts order according to the BOM so this time around I'm going with the big body. Hopefully there are no issues with the I/O jacks...
And if anyone has the same question: the pin outs are indeed reversed.
Quote from: cooder on September 15, 2018, 11:01:09 PM
Quote from: benny_profane on September 14, 2018, 06:33:27 PM
I noticed that you used 78L05 voltage regulators rather than L7805 regulators in your build. The BOM called for the L7805 but the PCB looks like it's intended for 78L05's. If I'm not mistaken, the pinouts between the two are flipped. If I use the L7805's, should I have them oriented so that the metal tab is on the side toward R13 and R18? Thanks!
Yes I did use the small body 78L05 as suggested by silkscreen, I assume the L7805 in BOM is more a typo. Works not problem, I used one from Tayda
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html)
I guess if you want to use the big body higher current one best is to check data sheet for pinout comparison, from the top of my head you are right about orientation flip, but I always check stuff like that before I chuck it in.
I assumed typo as well. All the other ghost echo projects use 78l05 and the board was layed out for it. So its what i used to positive results.
Looks awesome. GGWP 8)
Well done, really like the wat you screwed the faceplace :)