I keep telling myself, "I will finish at least one more pedal this year!"
And, since posting my incomplete stuff inspires me to actually complete it (yes, I selfishly use your bandwidth for my motivation -- my apologies, once again ;)), I bring you my Über Tuber build.
The board is fully populated, so this project already has a good head start toward completion.
(http://i.imgur.com/or0QOfWm.jpg)
The hard part for me is always the enclosure, especially painting and/or graphics.
My graphics are still at an early concept stage, but I think nothing says Über Tuber better than Mr. P with some röck döts over his head. ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/eBaugpom.jpg)
Edit: Do you think I should use some sort of Gothic font for that umlaut?
Might relabel the controls (not sure yet...):
Cut (same?)
Lvl--> Size
Sat--> Oil
Drive--> Temp.
Boost--> Salt
I yam impressed.
Could you go with "julienne" for "cut"?
Quote from: mjg on September 23, 2018, 09:44:56 PM
I yam impressed.
Could you go with "julienne" for "cut"?
I'm still not sure I like the labels I suggested. I also thought of going fully abstract with Fries, Mashed, Baked, and Tots. Alternatively, if I keep the original labels, I'd probably shorten Drive the DRV, so it is the same size as LVL, SAT, and CUT. I'm ever so slightly favoring this last option at the moment.
This irrational indecisiveness is probably one reason why I get stuck so often at this point. ::)
I've decided to make the potato thing more subdued and go with more traditional labeling. I did change all the labels to three letters for consistency.
(http://i.imgur.com/e4eS0Qrl.jpg)
The oblong shape in the middle of the controls is intended to be a single cutout. It will be two half-inch drill holes, filed out in the middle.
Nearly ready.
My younger brother feels that this graphic is uninspired and boring, yet I have it in decal form ready to go. I can trust you guys to tell me to stop before I apply this if it needs work, right?
(http://i.imgur.com/1dZ3r3cl.jpg)
Tell him to make a Big Cheese if he doesn't like it, with "Curds", "Whey", and "Tone".
Nothing wrong with Mr Potato.
The spacing between the boost switch and the minitube is TIGHT.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ua8mcgnl.jpg)
I'm going to put some insulation in there to make sure nothing shorts out. Probably some foam tape to further secure that switch against rotation too.
Quote from: EBK on September 29, 2018, 12:25:25 PM
The spacing between the boost switch and the minitube is TIGHT.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ua8mcgnl.jpg)
I'm going to put some insulation in there to make sure nothing shorts out. Probably some foam tape to further secure that switch against rotation too.
I love that kind of details. A piece of foam will do.
Always a pleasure to see your builds. :)
Quote from: EBK on September 29, 2018, 12:25:25 PM
The spacing between the boost switch and the minitube is TIGHT.
I'd suggest heatshrink over the solder joints on the switch lugs.
I actually have some 1-inch heatshrink tubing that I got as part of an assortment many many years ago. I may just use some of that to cover the entire switch.
Hmm. I'll have to think of something else. It's not the solder lugs that I'm worried about but rather the metal on the switch body. Looks like another job for gaffers tape (in addition to the foam tape previously mentioned).
Quote from: Boba7 on September 30, 2018, 03:43:24 PM
I love that kind of details. A piece of foam will do.
Always a pleasure to see your builds. :)
Thanks!
My cutout on the top of the pedal is almost done. Funny camera tricks (the angle and some perspective correction) make the cutout look off center. You'll have to trust me that it actually looks better in person.
(http://i.imgur.com/2EwDwnOl.jpg)
I consider waterslide decals very stressful.
I messed with this for probably an hour, smoothing it out, moving it, accidentally wrinkling it, smoothing it out again, accidentally moving it, straightening it again, spraying DIY decal softener on it (vinegar), worrying that the softener may have permanently marked the decal with a Swiss cheese texture, smoothing it a bit more, and the whole time worrying that I was fussing with it too much.
Miraculously, it turned out well.
(http://i.imgur.com/FpL6WMhl.jpg)
Now I can stop worrying about all that and start worrying that I will mess it up while cutting the holes out. :P
Update: Success so far.
(http://i.imgur.com/eu127DZl.jpg)
Now I just need to wait for a bit lower humidity to clearcoat this thing.
By the way, that is a white decal on a light gray enclosure. Why did I choose light gray? It was the cheapest option -- even cheaper than an unfinished box (from Smallbear). The decal blends in surprisingly well with the rest of the enclosure.
The finish line seems to be close and the project quite close to the end. :)
Maybe one mone in the next 10 week? :)
Quote from: MJ_Sound_Cubed on October 09, 2018, 09:49:51 PM
The finish line seems to be close and the project quite close to the end. :)
Maybe one mone in the next 10 week? :)
One can dream. :D
I do have another project with a fully populated board. I still need to finish the graphics, but maybe....
This Uber Tuber build is currently baking in my outdoor toaster oven. I'll give it maybe two more coats of clear for good measure (so I have a greater margin for error when polishing it up).
I've managed to get some coats of clear on this box, but it's not smooth and shiny yet (I still haven't figured out how to get that stuff to work right the first time). Anyway, low humidity is here, so I will do my darndest to make this thing shiny.
By the way, if I finish building this and report back that it isn't working, ask me if I remembered to solder the pots (they're still just tack soldered at their middle legs only). ;)
Done, mostly -- plate voltages are high, but sound comes out.
(http://i.imgur.com/JBdlyq2l.jpg)
I'll post a proper gut shot later.
(http://i.imgur.com/81SuEgNl.jpg)
I've picked up this not-quite-finished project again. I've replaced the tube with one pretested by Brian, but I am having trouble with the Plate 1 voltage.
V+ is 17.65V
TP1 is 17.3V
I'll play around with the plate resistor a bit. Plate 2 voltage is fine. Could this indicate a break in the plate 1 connection, perhaps due to oxidation on the tube lead preventing a good solder joint? I've reflowed the solder joints on the tube with some additional flux.