I populated my Setback board last night with the components I had on hand. Need to order a handful of few parts to complete.
You're going to need to trim those leads...

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I was up late and forgot I left it like that and was amused when I walked in and saw it this morning. I figured somebody would get a laugh out of it ;D
Quote from: Aentons on April 27, 2021, 08:15:48 PM
I was up late and forgot I left it like that and was amused when I walked in and saw it this morning. I figured somebody would get a laugh out of it ;D
I've had those nights myself.
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I added a couple of extra trim pots to help dial it in. Now just need some graphics
Finished it up. Running it at 12V. I just kind slung the graphics out on this one and it came out too light. I might redo it at some point but this is definitely good enough for now.
Would have loved to used the tails function but the way it's implemented on the board I couldn't use a panel mouned toggle and didn't want two stomps so close together
This was my first attempt at the elongated mount holes. I played twister with some of the pot lugs so the board isn't floating and to get it to fit sideways on a 12 HP panel
Nice. How does it sound?
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Quote from: jimilee on May 28, 2021, 08:26:22 PM
Nice. How does it sound?
Sounds great! I have a trim for the repeat level that lets me easily dial it in for the longest repeats before it oscillates and it just sits underneath really nicely. The volume drop when engaged is a bit tricky but Brian helped me put in extra trims to help balance that out too so it's not terrible.
Top-notch twister skills indeed!
Wait, there's a loss of volume? That doesn't sound good at all.
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Yeah, kinda bugs me but working on it. Also I'm getting a cleaner signal on the 9v option so working thru that as well.
Very nice! Love the aesthetic.
Are you building MBP pcbs behind Eurorack? Any need for power conversion? I really like your panel graphics.
Quote from: jimilee on May 30, 2021, 10:37:38 PM
Wait, there's a loss of volume? That doesn't sound good at all.
Yep, stock it's fairly noticable but it's not too bad if you adjust it a little. I ended up with some additional trimpots in case I wanted to tweak it later
Here is what Brian suggested:
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32788.msg315181#msg315181
Quote from: KMRO on June 01, 2021, 02:42:44 PM
Are you building MBP pcbs behind Eurorack? Any need for power conversion? I really like your panel graphics.
I'm really just using the eurorack specifications and hardware to build a pedalboard. The big exception is that I'm using internal jumper connections rather than external patch cables.
For power, I have run it off a one spot and an internal daisy chain cable. I'm currently working on a roadrage board to use on the input/output panel for some additional power filtering and voltage options. I'm also trying to work out a bus system that will work in that tight space rather than using flying wires
I did a couple of other build reports about the case and other modules, more details here:
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32259.msg309994#msg309994
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32677.msg314077#msg314077
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32685.msg314205#msg314205
That looks really goodand I know I have said it before but this rack idea is really great.
To build an enclosed pedal board with the pedals as modules is a great idea. I'm really impressed with your design and layout (not to mention the wiring work). Honestly this looks like a really creative project and the kind of thing that could get massive.
Do you also have a Eurorack system? I'm enjoying my Eurorack voyage and have been building some modules. I put a PT2399 echo/noise circuit (from diystompboxes) behind a Eurorack panel this weekend and I feel like my world has opened up. I think the guitar pedal/ synth exchange is a healthy one. I know that the DIY communities have some venn diagram cross-overs.
I may not be active here any more but I do still lurk and this one is bugging me.
R9 and R48 can't just be trimmed, they're part of the de-emphasis network and set the cut off of that low pass filter with the 33n, they counteract the pre-emphasis set by the input op amp and are part of the filtering.
If you want to increase the output level, you need to either equally reduce the value of R6,7,8 & 33. Simulation tells me the frequency response isn't flat in this, but you can try about 6k8. Technically you may need to increase C3 to about 1.5uF and C27 to 470nF to keep bass the same doing that but... probably not that noticeable.
Or, make R48 - 33k, R9 - 6k2 and C4 - 18n, not exactly identical cut-offs but close enough, you'd need to tweak the aforementioned resistors up or down to tweak it further, or there's a hair of extra gain to be had by reducing R10 to 470R.
And with that, I'll leave you all to it.
Miss you Scruff. I had my board on the bench so thought I'd give the mods a shot.
Here's how if finished up:
- R4 150k
- R9 6k2
- R10 470R
- R32 22k
- R40 2M2
- R42 47R
- R48 33k
- C4 18nF
- C12 0.47uF Tant
- C18 1uF Electro
- C19 0.47uF Tant
- C28 1uF Electro
- C31 27pF
I'm able to dial it in at 12v and the mods got me close enough to unity that I'm going to call it a win. This also got rid of the 6th string THUMP.
One thing I did find a bit confusing was the docs state to set all controls to 50% to calibrate and on mine (if it's working correctly) I was only able to get the clock to 6.5 if I had delay maxed. It varies upwards of that with lower delay times.
This sounds good now and once my 1590BB's are in from SB this one will get boxed up.
This is great, thanks guys! I had to look up the emphasis network, that's new to me. It makes a lot more sense now. I'll try changing R9/C4 and see how that works out.
Reading about how pre/de emphasis works I noticed that it is stated that the cutoff frequencies should match but I'm not sure they do in this case or if it even matters in this application.
Im not sure if I'm reading it right, but I think the output lpf (R8+R48/c4) is 1.7k and the input hpf (r5/c2) is 1.5k. I'm not sure how (or if) a mismatch would sound but I still have the trim pots in so I'll play with it when I get a chance and see if I can get them to match.
I suppose in a perfect world it would be nice to leave a bit of the exaggerated highs intact in the de-emphasis to keep the delays as bright as possible without adding too much noise. But then again, I guess that's best left to the digital world...
I've never really been an analog delay fan, starting with the original MXR green box, but this one is very nice and I can see getting some use out of it once boxed up. My FAVE analog by far was the old Yamaha e1010.