So I have finally started my build after having the parts for many many moons.
My observations thus far:
1- parts id- I have found all the unmarked parts that SmallBear shipped me a bit of a challenge to id. On one hand I think they could just mark the baggies (all were unmarked), on the other hand I love learning new things and have been enjoying figuring things out.
- resistors- ended up just using my DMM and the DMM manual to read the values- I don't get the stripes even after reading and even using online sources. :)
- diodes- had to use a magnifier and the web to id and guess which were which. Frustrating a bit.
- caps- interesting as the 100uf seemed to give diff readings- like you have to really drain/test them to get accurate result.
Next was the PCB- a real pleasure to solder the parts on and by far the easiest/most fun. I found much good advice on www.guitarpcb.com (crash course and tips sections). I need a bigger magnifier and a better way to hold/manipulate the PCB but I did a good job and setting my iron to 20W not 40W was a great tip as well.
Tonight I began to drill the enclosure and work out the layout.
1- a 1590 enclosure is not a lot of real estate to work with! Planning is important and not my strong point- but so far i am happy with how it is going- although I think getting a battery in there would be near impossible and ok as I don't use em myself.
2- drill bits- I need bigger ones. Will def want the exact drill bit sizes for the diff size parts next time. and a better way to secure the enclosure while drilling- I'm not even going to say what my methods were.
The knobs thus far seem like they will be from left to right: Gain/Limit/Vol/Trim
Anyway- having a great time and just going to keep putting it all together- no testing first- I'm too impatient and impulsive. :)
Also the original thread I was on before is here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5.msg11617#msg11617
Thanks for reading and your comments are appreciated!
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Above pic shows switch turned 90 degrees and I wired it that way- wrong way! :0
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Working! Cramped and messy but making a joyful racket.
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At some point after I added footswitch add on board (above pic) it stopped working- I think it worked fine but after I boxed it it stopped- there was pressure on blue caps from lid also. (Turns out I tightened the jacks and pots and apparently rotated the input jack until it grounded to chassis and caused the problem)
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Above pic shows current status as of 2/20/12- no audio passing- see post from today later in this thread for deets. Removed switch board and rewired.
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Very nice... be good to see it fired in anger soon!
Quote from: Om_Audio on January 31, 2012, 08:50:15 AM
2- drill bits- I need bigger ones. Will def want the exact drill bit sizes for the diff size parts next time. and a better way to secure the enclosure while drilling- I'm not even going to say what my methods were.
I got some 'step-bits'... have a hunt at the hardware store, sometimes called 'unibit' they're great for drilling enclosures and all the sizes you need are on the chuck at the same time. I also recommend getting a bench vice to hold it when your drilling, and punch with a nail or screw, then pilot drill all the holes with a small bit prior to sending in the big guns. Makes for a much more accurate result. I still use a powered hand drill and pull off the enclosure drilling ok... :)
Looking good man! Glad to hear you are finishing this one up. Love those huge knobs! I've build a few pedals with those, they are enormous. I forgot PPP sold actual Hammond enclosures, those things are heavy duty.
Thanks guys! Yes- the anger will flow- the amps will glow- the gods will cower!!
Will be getting drill bits today- have to have one for the DC jack.
I just updated the pics to show how lucky I have been with placement so far- just eyeballing it and doing a little x/y marking to estimate placement- look at that foot switch- not sure I could get a piece of paper in there between it and the enclosure wall! ;) Need a black washer too white looks funky to me. Also the i/o jacks might have some metal to enclosure contact I will have to sort out- if I had to choose would I want sleeve/housing contact? (assuming sleeve is ground)? Yes I know no contact is desired but I like to live ignorantly, er I mean dangerously!! :)
C
PS- I got 2 large pots for trim- a 1K and 2K. I think 5k was suggested- will any pot give me full range sweep but diff fine tuning? How do I explain- like are they all covering total range but have diff sized "gears"?
Ok- first try didn't work which means I will certainly learn some new things very soon. :)
Some observations:
1- holding the wires/iron/PCB/parts/solder wire in place is a f*****g challenge!!! Please, some advice needed. I have forceps and the like but I am really bad at doing the wiring thus far.
2- First try the LED lit up but also lit/unlit when I pulled the cable from my guitar. Doh! Also, no sound.
Also, I noticed only later the diagram shows the foot switch with some a/b/c and 1/3 markings. I could find no unique identifiers on the switch and somehow had it in my head that it didn't matter. Ignorance is bliss.
I updated the pics above but there is not much to see but my rushed and very poor wiring soldering skills. Also seems you need a lot more heat (40W instead of 20W) to solder the 1/4" jacks.
-Any advice on holding everything and making the soldering of wiring easier appreciated.
-Also info on switch orientation appreciated- at this point after having gone over the wiring is the main culprit I have as to why things are not working.
Thanks-
C
I think your footswitch is all wrong. It should be turned 90 degrees for that wiring diagram
Hello- thanks- how can you tell? I want to learn and there are many spots like this which are not really explained. Only thing I just noticed was at center of diagram there is a line- does that indicate which way the blades on the switch should be oriented? In any event I hope I didn't fry anything if i did wire up the switch with 90 degrees of bad mojo. :-\
Quote from: marmaliser on February 01, 2012, 11:22:58 AM
I think your footswitch is all wrong. It should be turned 90 degrees for that wiring diagram
the footswitch should be installed with the holes in the lugs aligned top to bottom, not left to right like you have it in your picture.
kind of like this...
_ _ _
_ _ _
_ _ _
and not like this...
l l l
l l l
l l l
You can install it that way, you just have to make sure you wire it correctly!
Jacob
Thanks very much. How did you guys learn this? I have seen other build sheets with a + sign in the center of the switch so from what I can tell there is no indication on the switch or build sheet to indicate this. How did you all figure it out the first time?
Also, I assume it does not matter if you wire it 180degrees in reverse? In other words as long as you orient or wire the switch looking at the blades horizontally not vertically you could do it either way?
C
Yep 180 out doesn't matter
I learnt by doing it wrong :o and finding the answer on a forum somewhere
Quote from: marmaliser on February 01, 2012, 07:46:06 PM
I learnt by doing it wrong :o and finding the answer on a forum somewhere
same here.
I have spent a few evenings reading through all the 'tech help' topics on here. Its worth doing even if its for projects you have no interest in building at all as you will learn something from each topic. Id bet the footswitch orientation issue shows up in there somewhere more than once.
Quote from: Om_Audio on February 01, 2012, 07:32:52 PM
Thanks very much. How did you guys learn this? I have seen other build sheets with a + sign in the center of the switch so from what I can tell there is no indication on the switch or build sheet to indicate this. How did you all figure it out the first time?
Also, I assume it does not matter if you wire it 180degrees in reverse? In other words as long as you orient or wire the switch looking at the blades horizontally not vertically you could do it either way?
C
Ya it appears you did wire the switch the wrong way..It wouldn't work like that because the wipers aren't connecting what you want which is what the diagram shows..they still move the way they are designed to despite how you actually wired it. Kinda hard to explain, easy to show with a diagram...
I see you live in Venice, whereabouts are you? I live right off of Abott Kinney and Palms..your more than welcome to come by, I can give you some tips and pointers.. :)
Heck ya man, I'd love that! I'm off AK myself over by the French Market. You know JakeFuzz is the guy who got me into this- is incredibly helpful and supportive- and lives in LA too. I bought an expertly built Zombii from him and it got my gears turning. You guys are awesome. Will pm you for contact info.
:)
As for the switch issue- I guess I am digging for how people learn this sort of thing or "know" it. i mean at some point I guess someone is looking at a diagram of the switch on how it works or something. it is like basically there is a body of tacit-like knowledge in this community and I am curious where it came from originally- like did people learn it in school, from manuals, from jobs/training?
Clifford
Quote from: Om_Audio on February 01, 2012, 11:28:58 PM
Heck ya man, I'd love that! I'm off AK myself over by the French Market. You know JakeFuzz is the guy who got me into this- is incredibly helpful and supportive- and lives in LA too. I bought an expertly built Zombii from him and it got my gears turning. You guys are awesome. Will pm you for contact info.
:)
Oh yea that's so close, I pass by everyday. Paul is a great guy, lots of information and a good builder!! I can understand why he doesn't build for others anymore. Still want a pedal board from him or at least show me how to build one!! This pedal train is killing my back...... >:( >:( >:(
Quote from: Om_Audio on February 01, 2012, 11:28:58 PM
As for the switch issue- I guess I am digging for how people learn this sort of thing or "know" it. i mean at some point I guess someone is looking at a diagram of the switch on how it works or something. it is like basically there is a body of tacit-like knowledge in this community and I am curious where it came from originally- like did people learn it in school, from manuals, from jobs/training?
Clifford
The biggest point I can urge is to pay close attention to detail..In parts placement, soldering, layout, orientation of pieces, wiring at least until your more familiar with the process. If you learned how the switch worked you'd know why we wire it the way we do but you don't have to even know that much, just follow instructions..I like to think of it as a slightly more complicated coloring book. I feel like Jacob constantly repeats to check the steps, if they were done correctly it would work and that's the truth. Luckily there's so much help to go around here :)
There is people from all sorts of electronic backgrounds on these forum boards, but the part I like is some of the top guys aren't EE's, just people really into it. Individuals who seemed to have such a passion for it (call it addiction ;) ) teaching themselves and designing very use-able circuits for our needs. With some dedication you can learn a lot from online electronics courses, but it involves a lot of math..
Wiring the switches and jacks properly is, IMHO, the biggest challenge in building DIY pedals. I almost always wire my input and output backwards, then realize what I've done the second I flip the pedal over :-[
This diagram helped me understand how a 3pdt switch works. Basically the center lugs are "constants" (dunno if that's the right term or not) and the switch flips the connection between the middle "constant" row and the two outside rows.
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9160/1611dia5.gif) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/1611dia5.gif/)
If you search around there are 3PDT wiring boards available that can ease the pain of some of the offboard wiring. Although they're currently sold out, THESE (http://1776effects.com/store/) are particularly awesome 8)
Haha, thanks guys. I need to head down to Venice more often and kick it on the beach, love it down there. I do need to document the next PT style board I build, I need a decent bandsaw to cut the side profiles though so it may be a while before I get access to my old one. We do need to get together and jam, my buddies have a sweet little jam spot here in Westwood that goes nuts sometimes (badass drummer and guitar player are always there). Its reggae and jazz style things that usually go down but it is always fun. Ill let you guys know if they actually plan something out one of these days.
You can find pretty much all basic informations needed to get started on a few pedal related websites.
for the switches for example, i suggest http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Switches/
Do not forget to read the rest of the page which contains a lot of very interesting informations too.
In the end, all electronic or mechanical components have to be handled in a certain way to operate the way we want them to operate, or at all. It's always useful to look at the datasheet before you start using something, just to try to understand what's happening.
IT WORKS!! :o
Thanks guys for so much great information. Seriously- I have plenty to take in and read and learn. I rotated the switch 90 degrees and re-wired it and it worked perfectly straight away. I still have things to do like drill for DC jack and such but am very excited. This thing sounds so nasty and awesome I can't wait to try it along with my other pedals.
I have not thanked everyone properly- but thanks:
add4 for the info and link- will read it soon if not tonight.
slimtriggers for the great diagram- this should get me closer to my goal of actually understanding the circuit and allowing me to mod and experiment a bit if I want.
sam_c for the very helpful post and ASCII skillz- ;)
etc.
I will post up a pic or 2 when it is all really boxed up- and maybe a video to show how sweeping the knobs sounds. The Gain and Trim do some wacky stuff near the upper end of their sweep but I think all is working right.and I also might try to lower the brightness of the LED- wow- clear water ultra bright violet looks great but hurts my eyes! ;D
Last, I am sorely lacking in wiring soldering skills. I did the board really well and got the knack for switching in and out of 20/40W on my iron but really the wiring is messy where the solder hits the fan.
Oh well- I'm having fun and proud to have done it! Onwards!
Thanks-
Clifford
So I had a great hang with bigmufffuzzwizz yesterday and got a boatload of tips and info. Very cool. I updated the pics- and I am pretty certain I am going to rewire the whole thing at some point- I need to get some things first like a better iron and wire that does not melt so easy and other things. New solder, shrink tubing, etc.
Anyway I love the damn thing- did some quick improvs running it along with a FT Distortion Pro and also the Zombii. It does crazy things depending on the intervals you play on the guitar- ugly and tense and love the resolve when you hit notes that sing together with this thing.
http://soundcloud.com/clifford-novey
Clifford
Oh dude- so you just plop it on, solder, and wire the jacks, i/o/g, power, etc? Awesome. Thanks.
Quote from: slimtriggers on February 02, 2012, 12:54:45 AM
If you search around there are 3PDT wiring boards available that can ease the pain of some of the offboard wiring. Although they're currently sold out, THESE (http://1776effects.com/store/) are particularly awesome 8)
Nice build. It's always great when you get that first one under your belt. Welcome to "the club", no turning back now ;)
Josh
Thanks Josh!
:)
Clifford
I got 10 of those boards you mentioned- a little tight for my Macheen build- might get some Mammoth boards too- and am installing one in the Macheen right now. I am thinking I can install the board either way as long as the lugs are horizontal and of course I wire the board properly. I think this is correct- it would only mean if the pedal was off when I installed it it would then be on after installation. Anyway- back to work! (also added pic to first page, will post another when complete.) Thanks.
Quote from: slimtriggers on February 02, 2012, 12:54:45 AM
If you search around there are 3PDT wiring boards available that can ease the pain of some of the offboard wiring. Although they're currently sold out, THESE (http://1776effects.com/store/) are particularly awesome 8)
Nightmare. Pads popping off- pedal does not work. Luckily the 2 pads that came off were both on the side of the pcb that didn't matter on that particular spot.
I'm bummed. It worked fine then I tried hot glue- coating all the exposed metal near the pcb and such and mounting it and boxing it up but there was some pressure on some of the caps- I coated the tops w hot glue to avoid contact w enclosure but I'm stuck. Going to have to make an audio probe or whatever. LED lights, I can hear crackle in gain knob adjust but no audio is passed. Double checked wiring. Might just remove the add on switch board and wire the switch again.
*sigh* maybe I can get it working before rehearsal Tues night- been loving that thing.
C
The only different between guys who are super good at something and guys who aren't is that the first ones didn't stopped after the first, second or 100th problem ..
learn from that, start over if needed, next time the problems you had for this one will be a breeze.. and you'll discover other ones :)
Pulled the switch board, rewired- made sure to wrap wires and such- checked continuity to make sure no breaks. Still no dice. LED lights and I can hear crackle of gain adjust but no audio passing. I think I might replace the tall blue caps as they had pressure on them after I boxed it the 2nd time. Does that seem like a good idea to anyone? I def need to learn how to probe and get deeper into testing/diagnosis.
I did test tip of input all the way to outside pad of C1 and it was ok. I assume caps have to be powered and if drained will not show any continuity? Something after that outside C1 pad must be the cause. The pedal actually sounds right but for no audio passing- when I test it through amp I hear all the knobs have an effect.
Updated pics. Thx.
If every pot seems to work, the problem might be ahead of them, you should make sure the input is not grounded by a solder bridge somewhere. you could have continuity, and a bridge to ground.. that would kill the signal.
Booyah. You are right on it add4- thanks. I actually took it over to Magic's place and we looked at it together- he used his probe box and was confused why there was no signal until closer inspection revealed the input jack had grounded to chassis- I think the tip or ring- forget. This made me remember that right before I finished I did a once over tightening of all the pot and jack nuts- tightening them- and my jacks are sooo close to corners that I must have turned the jack and grounded it. Magic turned the jack a bit and removed the tab for ring. So it was not a solder bridge (I also have a photo loupe I use a lot to inspect along the way and used in trying to track this issue down) For some reason it just didn't strike me to check the jacks.
It was great to see someone with more experience go through the process of testing and sorting it out.
Anyway it works great now and like you said if you keep at it you learn. Just rewiring the switch a second time felt so much better and I did it faster and cleaner than the first. I measured out the wire and such too and used hot glue to insulate certain spots. I know I will always pay closer attention to jack grounding in the future!
Thanks for the help! (Pics on first page updated- went crazy w hot glue but I'm done!)
Quote from: add4 on February 21, 2012, 06:21:54 AM
If every pot seems to work, the problem might be ahead of them, you should make sure the input is not grounded by a solder bridge somewhere. you could have continuity, and a bridge to ground.. that would kill the signal.