Built this today.
From scratch it was about 4 hours work.
Kept it simple for now, Ive subsequently written on "1983" on the top in blue marker pen :P
Did the flashy LED mod with a 10k resistor, works really nicely.
Fired up second time as I had the 1n4001 in the wrong way round. It was getting nicely toasty ;)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/1983%20ce-2/P1020890.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/1983%20ce-2/P1020891.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/1983%20ce-2/P1020892.jpg)
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/1983%20ce-2/P1020889.jpg)
Thanks for making the porker 1590b, Brian.
Next time I might be adventurous and use a Road Rage for the first time...
Nice! I got a finished Porkbarrel waiting for an enclosure, spend some time playing through it today and I love it! Did you notice you got more depth with the flashing LED mod? If so, I might still do it before boxing it up....
Paul
Didnt test it, as I wanted the flashy led regardless.
I did try and 22k and felt 10k was better but its subtle.
I dont go for really deep chorus settings anyway.
Love this circuit! Nice build and super fast time too! ;)
Nice build lace, i like the blue led! Where did you get that hammond enclosure from? Are they pricey?
Paul
Clean. I would have left it without graphics probably, but 1983 is pretty appropriate.
Jacob
Quote from: chromesphere on March 11, 2012, 10:19:51 PM
Nice build lace, i like the blue led! Where did you get that hammond enclosure from? Are they pricey?
Paul
Hey
You can get a nice selection from Rapid UK
The B are about £8, so significantly more, but they are nicely finished, and are genuine Hammond.
BB are I think £9.50. They also do a size which is equivalent to 1790ns, which is nice for bigger stuff for example I made the Meatsphere in that size. Its the BBXL one on Rapid, around £11 somthing.
Actually here is a link
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipment/1590-series-Painted-aluminium-Stomp-Box-enclosures-200116
Enjoy!
Quote from: jkokura on March 11, 2012, 10:53:55 PM
Clean. I would have left it without graphics probably, but 1983 is pretty appropriate.
Jacob
Cheers. Im in 2 minds. I might see if I can find an appropriate 80s sticker sometime.
1983 is my birthyear and also damn appropriate for this :)
Cool thing is I keep isopropanol and itll take the marker pen straight off so its win win til I decide / finalise.
I'm glad you posted this! I'm working on mine these days and was not sure whether to do R5 as a standing resistor or not. I see you did so I think I will go that route.
Some of the ICs from your holiday PIF will be used on mine by the way! Not to mention the Millenium Bypass board...
Quote from: Bret608 on March 12, 2012, 02:13:02 PM
I'm working on mine these days and was not sure whether to do R5 as a standing resistor or not. I see you did so I think I will go that route.
Seems there are a lot of Porkers being built lately! ;D Good thing, 'cause they sound amazing! I did R5 standing up as well, and learned a lesson: standing resistors go on the board last! Man it was in the way while trying to solder in the caps, diodes and other stuff!
Paul
Oh man, I think you just saved me some serious trouble! I set that one aside to wait and see how it compares to everything else, height-wise. Sounds like it should basically go in last.
When I looked at Marauder's recent build report, it seemed like he managed to get it flat. I wonder if he put it to the side of the through-holes rather than directly over.
Lace and Paul, did you two use v3207s or MN3007s?
Mn3007 / Mn3101
I can get the pair for <£3 in the UK, genuine NOS.
and yeah I did the standup, 1 teepee for the 33r (I only had 22r and 10r and couldnt be bothered to go to the local electronics rip off store)
used this at rehearsal last night sounded so good :)
love the rate led too
Quote from: Bret608 on March 12, 2012, 05:37:33 PM
Lace and Paul, did you two use v3207s or MN3007s?
I used a v3207, after reading all the posts about "magic" IC's here (MN3005/3007 etc) I decided to use the readily available, cheaper versions, at least for now. I'm no experienced builder at all, so I'm more than satisfied if a pedal actually works! Maybe in the future I'll get picky with IC's. Same thing happened with guitar strings: when I just started playing I was happy if I managed to get them on my guitar, now I swear I can feel and hear the differences between brands......
Paul
Nice build man!
Just out of curiosity (newb here), why socket the transistors?
-Chris
Quote from: hubb on March 16, 2012, 06:45:00 PM
Just out of curiosity (newb here), why socket the transistors?
Transistors (and a lot of other parts, like IC's) are sensitive to heat. If your soldering technique is spot on, you probably won't damage them, but better safe then sorry! Also, it's pretty cool to be able to tweek your own build by trying out some different parts in certain places. Clipping diodes have a huge influence on how an overdrive sounds, for instance, so socketing those gives you a lot of flexability.
Paul
Quote from: hubb on March 16, 2012, 06:45:00 PM
Nice build man!
Just out of curiosity (newb here), why socket the transistors?
-Chris
First reason - I always have
Second reason - Sometimes trannies are broken out the pack. On double side boards, desoldering is a massive pain, particularly these ultra dense boards Brian is designing now.
Third reason - They can be damaged by soldering, so I remove that possibility
Fourth reason - in certain circuits experimenting with different transistors is encouraged. Granted, in a chorus, it probably makes no real difference.
But like I say, primarily its force of habit.