madbeanpedals::forum

Projects => General Questions => Topic started by: GhostofJohnToad on October 25, 2012, 04:15:57 PM

Title: etching faceplates
Post by: GhostofJohnToad on October 25, 2012, 04:15:57 PM
So I've seen some pretty excellent etched faceplates around here and I'd like to get my feet wet or maybe even farm it out to someone willing.  I have a low tolerance toward certain chemicals so me etching may be an issue depending on what's involved.

My question is - is this the same process as etching boxes, and where do you get the plates to etch?
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: gtr2 on October 25, 2012, 04:31:13 PM
I get my plates from online metals.

I've done it three different ways:

Ferric Chloride

Muratic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide

Electro etching in a salt bath

Each have their pluses and minuses.  My prefered method is electo as there are no harmful chemicals involved, but there is a higher learning curve.  You need to get the voltage/amperage right as well.

My best results have been from muratic and HP though.  It's easier to see your progress without pulling it out of the bath.

With all the methods the resist you use it crucial to your success.  Different metals also etch faster or slower.

An easier method is using copper clad because you can see when you've etched long enough and it doesn't eat at the edges as much because the copper is thinner.  With thicker plates getting the right depth is harder to gauge.  To little and you miss some details, to much and the resist gives out and you get pitting.

The easiest option is to find a trophy shop that will engrave one for you, but then it's not really DIY is it  ;)

Josh
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: bigmufffuzzwizz on October 31, 2012, 05:58:44 AM
I've yet to do this but I'm really digging what some of you are accomplishing.
I've done a fair bit of etching now and have to agree with Josh. The easiest way is probably ferric chloride yet its the most gunky and messy. Also pretty toxic so its something to be done outside or in a very well ventilated room yet I still wouldn't.
Muratic Acid/Hydrogen is much more pleasant to work with, much thinner and i haven't experienced to much of a heavy toxic smell from it. I've read that using a smaller part of muratic to hydrogen yet a stronger hydrogen peroxide works really well. Haven't tried it because I'm a bit to lazy to search for the 40%, but I'm sure its great.
Those plates are pretty perfect for this.
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: alanp on October 31, 2012, 06:41:53 AM
How much of a bugger would engraving with a dremel be?
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: DutchMF on October 31, 2012, 07:35:17 AM
The work itself is not a bugger at all, but the results are crap.... Real difficult to control the tip of that Dremel.....
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: micromegas on November 05, 2012, 12:33:42 AM
ferric chloride has been always the best choice for me for etching enclosures , but I wonder what kind of material does Madbean use to get those beautiful copper 'n black faceplates (flexible copper boards maybe?)

Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: gitaar0 on November 05, 2012, 07:53:46 AM
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1385.0 (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1385.0) ;)
Title: Re: etching faceplates
Post by: micromegas on November 05, 2012, 12:05:07 PM
thanks  :)