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Great demo and welcome! Very nice tone, sounds better than my real CE-2 and nice job on the build. I'm a big fan of the "clean-but-not-by-much" sound...what's the amp?
That's a really pretty build. Great hammertone on that one. I like the plate as well.
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Wow, shields on the jacks for clock noise, I don't think anyone has even mentioned that here on the board in the 6 mos I've been here. Nice.
+1 on the stamped plate!
Sounds like you're having way too much fun with this build. Seriously, it looks and sounds great. Shielding on the jacks to sink clock noise... brilliant.
Like it lots, get it entered in the March comp if you haven't already!
I think a lot of people should read your blog post just for the paragraphs about recycled chips.
It's weird how easy it is to forget that in the pursuit of mojo.
Great looking build, by the way.
I really dig that finish and the name plate.
Sweet!
First up, pleasantries: welcome, nice build, interested in the shield things so please write that up or provide more details and pictures. Like the stamped plate too.
Secondly, read your blog and it was interesting to see this opinion. MN3007s are quite easy to get hold of in the UK if you know where to look, and including the clock would have likely actually been cheaper to source than the alternatives you got...and I can say with regards that chip, running it at 15v provides much nicer results than 9v. This is one major reason to "keep the faith" in the mojo old chips of the past. I am also not that concerned about tinned legs and the indication that those devices are "pulls" from obsolete equipment; the same is to be said of viable MN3005 chips for nice delays.
However, in closing, if you are happy with the sound then more power to you but dont rule out trying some "mojo" components if you can be bothered as they do afford some serious advantages. Case in point would definitely be the current lover I wouldnt run one at 9v at all...
Have fun and looking forward to seeing more builds.
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 18, 2013, 04:33:55 PMI am also not that concerned about tinned legs and the indication that those devices are "pulls" from obsolete equipment; the same is to be said of viable MN3005 chips for nice delays.
I believe he was referring to the
social cost of the component recycling industry. The cause for concern isn't that they're pulled from old devices and may be bad, or that he may have been deceived by the guy selling them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_waste
Quote from: midwayfair on March 18, 2013, 05:57:36 PM
Quote from: LaceSensor on March 18, 2013, 04:33:55 PMI am also not that concerned about tinned legs and the indication that those devices are "pulls" from obsolete equipment; the same is to be said of viable MN3005 chips for nice delays.
I believe he was referring to the social cost of the component recycling industry. The cause for concern isn't that they're pulled from old devices and may be bad, or that he may have been deceived by the guy selling them. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_waste
fair point then. tough job but someone does it I guess /flippant mood
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Interesting discussion. I will google that name.
Not meant to be anything heated, I just wanted you to know that in my experience these modulation projects relying on MN3x07 chips work really nice at 9v, but next level at 15v and I strongly recommend getting the 3007/3101 chipset and giving it a whirl. Run them with a charge pump such as Madbeans Roadrage with an LT1054 and 15v regulator, for the win.
I will pm you the place in the UK to get the chips. Its not a secret, but then again they wont last forever and we madbeaners can keep some stuff under the general radar.
regards
LS
Great build. FWIW, I've used MN3007s sourced from China (via eBay) for both a Pork Barrel AND a Current Lover, both with 15v Road Rages, and they work great. Well, I have a problem with the chorus, but it's not the chip. ???
That's a great color for Hammertone as well.
Great build and blog! I think a little debate is healthy and we all may learn a little in the process. I for one was oblivious to the issues with electronic waste. Thanks for sharing... I have built both the MN3007 and cool audio versions of the CE-2 and I like both of them a lot. I did run the MN3007 version at 15V and it does have more headroom and sounds cleaner. But if I had to choose I would go for the MN3007...
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Lovely build dude; executed perfectly, and welcome to the forum!
I am very interested in where you source your hammertone paint mate (I too am based in the UK, and love the stuff).
My experience with hammertone paint is the worse it smells, the better it looks ;)!
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Quote from: jvg13 on March 19, 2013, 01:49:45 PM
Thanks RD! ;) Very nice of you to say so.
Hah, yeah that's tended to be my experience too with hammertone paint :D
From checking out your website and very cool looking builds, I'm sure you know more than me and may already know, but that blue comes from a place in Essex called Future Protective Coatings - they have an ebay shop (where I found them): http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Future-Protective-Coatings
It's £8 I think for a 250ml tin delivered - what I got a couple of months back (which is a couple of quid less than a non-delivered 250ml Hammerite brand tin from the big DIY place up the road :)).
If you have a Toolstation near you they also sell Xylene hammer paint - the brand is Flag I think. For some reason they dropped the blue last year ??? and now only offer green, silver, and black I think. But they sell the Xylene thinner.
I think if you have the equipment you could use the thinner to spray the stuff - which I'd hazard a guess is the way those old British fuzz boxes were painted.
I don't have the equipment so have to paint the stuff by hand. I learnt you should use foam brushes with the stuff for the best finish if you're painting a big area by hand; for a little metal box I just used some little cut out pieces of clean foam (from pickup packaging), dabbing on the paint. The only real tricky thing then is to try and achieve a uniform thickness - and once it fisheyes leave it, so you don't have too much time.
The only thing is, with the tinned stuff (not some of the spray hammer finish), as it fish eyes it tends to open up gaps - so you can see what's below. You need an appropriate undercoat really... I'm still experimenting a bit. The Xylene can quickly eat into other paints - and is guaranteed to if what's below is not absolutely dry.
As I say, sure you know all that though! :)
Thanks for the link dude!
Yep pretty much my experience with hammertone paints too. I apply with a sponge by hand as well (get a nicer finish than spraying IMO).
Certain colours seem to fish eye more than others (some copper I have almost fish eyes
too much) as well in my experience.
Still, all the effort if worth it in the end though; can't beat a hammertone finish IMO ;)!