Any suggestions on outsourcing the parts for a build. It's my first build so I'm starting with a rangemaster and I've got a cart at small bear, but I'm having problems with finding the switch, pot and finding the correct cap values. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Like I said, I'm new at this and am obviously lost
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/
For your pot you'll want the 16mm Right-angle PC Mount audio.
For the tone switch you'll want a spdt 'on/on', simply connecting the middle and one outer lug.
For your caps you'll probably want axial for that 'mojo' look. Smallbear uses the designation mF instead of uF. Also, they don't use nF, instead just using mF e.g. 5nF = 0.005mF. You may have to use 'greenie' or 'topmay' caps of the same value if they are out of stock of axial caps.
I had a quick look for 47 mF axial, but Smallbear doesn't seem to have them in stock. You might have to use a normal electrolytic or tantalum for C3. For C5 you can use any radial from 47 mF to 220 mF (such as 100mF).
Hope this helps and enjoy!
I can usually find everything needed at small bear. Keep looking, switches and caps should all be there. If its your first build, you may just need to get used to small bears UI. Small bear will have your odd and out of production stuff though like that OC44 you need. small bear does not always have the best prices, but is a irreplaceable resource.
For the "n" caps, check the boxed film... or any film. For the 47u get electrolytic.
Tadya has great prices, especially for resistors, and boxed film caps, but keep in mind if you split your order, you pay more for shipping. If you are just building the range master I wouldn't split the order. There are so few parts any $$ you save you will spend on shipping.
If you are just missing one part, check the "help need parts" forum, someone might be able to help you out.
Another thing to consider, figure out your next build, get those parts too. If you need to split your order, at least the shipping is spread across two builds.
Tadya is great too. The nice thing about Tadya is you don't have to buy bulk to get a great price. At mouser you typically get price breaks at 10, 25, 50, 100... and up. At tadya, resistors are 1.2 cents, if you buy 1 or 1000. Though its kind of hard resisting stocking up on common values like 1k and 10k resistors., I mean 100 for 1.20, thats great!
Do y'all think tantalum caps will sound good in the 47uf slots. Also, I'm trying to figure out the "5n" thing too
Personally I would just use electrolytically, but rants won't hurt. 5n is also 0.005 uf.
There is a great conversion table over at justradios.com
I've learned so much just from this short conversation. A general question; so is say a 2.4m ohm resistor the same as 2k7?
I'm also having some difficulty finding certain caps and resistors, and I end up grabbing the first thing with the appropriate value that I can find. This being said, some of the descriptions don't always say "electrolytic". I hope my builds still turn out. I'm trying to go ahead and get all the stuff for the 2 comps and the rangemaster to save on shipping, as recommended above. I certainly appreciate you guys helping me.
Quote from: QuatroMule on April 14, 2013, 08:56:47 PM
I've learned so much just from this short conversation. A general question; so is say a 2.4m ohm resistor the same as 2k7?
2.4M=2M4
2.7k=2k7
Quote from: QuatroMule on April 14, 2013, 09:01:23 PM
I'm also having some difficulty finding certain caps and resistors, and I end up grabbing the first thing with the appropriate value that I can find. This being said, some of the descriptions don't always say "electrolytic". I hope my builds still turn out. I'm trying to go ahead and get all the stuff for the 2 comps and the rangemaster to save on shipping, as recommended above. I certainly appreciate you guys helping me.
If youre using brians boards, all the lytics have a + and - on the pcb indicating that they are lytics. Generally values 1u and above are lytics, but be carefull with 1u values as the build may require lytics or film or both.
Yeah, the 1uf film are not directional and usually have a box on the pcb. The 1uf lytics have a + and are round.
Gotcha, so how do u know whether to get logarithmic taper or not? (On the pots)
Log=a reverse log=c linear=b
it think its a=audio(log) b=linear c=rev log
Oh yeah, Mr.Jimilee, I'm pretty sure u have assisted me with another project on a different forum in the past. I appreciate you brother! What size enclosure would I want for a dual comp pedal, the engineers thumb and the cupcake? Also, what's the best approach to start learning how to transfer the labels and cool pics onto my pedal enclosures like I see in the pictures. Nothing even that fancy, just something that looks professional?
Quote from: QuatroMule on April 15, 2013, 12:24:44 AM
Oh yeah, Mr.Jimilee, I'm pretty sure u have assisted me with another project on a different forum in the past. I appreciate you brother! What size enclosure would I want for a dual comp pedal, the engineers thumb and the cupcake? Also, what's the best approach to start learning how to transfer the labels and cool pics onto my pedal enclosures like I see in the pictures. Nothing even that fancy, just something that looks professional?
Excellent man. I was just thinking about a dual comp build myself. If use a 1590bb just for the room.
As far as transfers, there are tutorials on the forum that you can check out, and ask lots of questions.