Here's the completed Moodring build. I am really happy with the effect. I am less happy with sanding off the edges of the artwork and not being more careful with where I put the jacks. But, it fits and it works...so good enough for DIY.
I did wire this one up as non-true-bypass. Switching the reverb on and off is completely silent and the reverb decays over the clean signal when turned off. Just what I wanted. One thing I did not think all the way through is that in NTB wiring, the dry kill..uhh...kills your signal completely! This just means you cannot use the dry kill on the fly. Not an issue with true bypass wiring though. Maybe I can think of a solution for that using a DPDT with the dry kill. I'll see.
(http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/gallery/Moodring2014.jpg)
Looks amazing!!!
Josh
This one deserves video clip :D
Love it. Want it. Got to got to have it!
Must. Have. Soundclips. :P
+2 for the soundclip! I especially want to hear the "reverb decays over the clean signal when turned off." One thing I've found that's kind of funny is that 3P3T switches have gotten so cheap and common these days, we use them even when we don't need to. I have a couple builds the same way :)
Sleek & classy. Sweetness.
I'll do a video demo on Monday. I think I figured out the dry kill issue, too. Just need to wire the switch in parallel to the 3pdt so it shorts on bypass. Woohoo!
Drools
damn, that looks like another must-build to add to the list. looking forward to the demo.
Once again, excellent job Brian! I hope you know how much we all appreciate your efforts for the DIY community.
Ah man, I want this so bad.
gorgeous!
Quote from: madbean on August 16, 2014, 03:53:15 PM
I did wire this one up as non-true-bypass. Switching the reverb on and off is completely silent and the reverb decays over the clean signal when turned off. Just what I wanted. One thing I did not think all the way through is that in NTB wiring, the dry kill..uhh...kills your signal completely! This just means you cannot use the dry kill on the fly. Not an issue with true bypass wiring though. Maybe I can think of a solution for that using a DPDT with the dry kill. I'll see.
Parallel the dry kill switch with the unused pole on the stomp -- so that when the pedal is in Bypass, the stomp also connects the previously open Dry Kill.
Killer build :)
8)
Gorgeous!
Beautiful!
Still under the shock about how this circuit is designed.... 8)
The copper / black combo is amazing. Very nice.
That looks great, Brian. Which length brick did you use?
Super awesome. Just ordered mine and am very excited to build it out. Your artwork on the faceplate look outstanding and simple. I love it.
Cody
Nice - I dig the graphic!
Quote from: pickdropper on August 17, 2014, 02:19:29 AM
That looks great, Brian. Which length brick did you use?
The build doc states that he only tried the M brick, so I guess it has to be that one. Sounds like a good choice considering there is the pt2399 in there too
Fantastic! Need another reverb, this one for sure...! 8)
Quote from: m-Kresol on August 17, 2014, 08:45:49 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on August 17, 2014, 02:19:29 AM
That looks great, Brian. Which length brick did you use?
The build doc states that he only tried the M brick, so I guess it has to be that one. Sounds like a good choice considering there is the pt2399 in there too
Ah, missed that. Thanks.
I dunno why, but the ring makes me think of the green lantern. The comics, not the movies.
Cool stuff!
Thanks for all the kudos! It's looking like tomorrow or Thursday for doing the demo. I should have some more 125B coming so I'm going to try to sneak in the Sparklehorn as well. Then its back to all the stuff I gotta get ready for September.
Just ordered this, can't wait to put it together.
Also bought four other boards.... just because. ::) ;D
Bumping for a sound demo! Mines is in the mail but I can't wait till Monday for it to be delivered to box it, i must hear it! :) waiting on you Bean... :)
@Brian
How long does it take you to etch that size faceplate? That's a LOT of copper coming off :o
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 22, 2014, 12:54:40 AM
@Brian
How long does it take you to etch that size faceplate? That's a LOT of copper coming off :o
About 10 minutes. I use a less potent acid so it takes longer. But, it doesn't smell bad!
Hi Madbean,
Cool Effect :D
Just a quick question how did you do the artwork?
Cheers
Joshua
Quote from: madbean on August 19, 2014, 05:10:27 PM
Thanks for all the kudos! It's looking like tomorrow or Thursday for doing the demo. I should have some more 125B coming so I'm going to try to sneak in the Sparklehorn as well. Then its back to all the stuff I gotta get ready for September.
I'm eager to hear how this pedal rings.. I assume you did not find the time to do the demo but, only to get a picture: does it sounds similar to the EQD Ghost Echo? Looking at the schematic I can see it shares some ideas but the Space pot has other configuration and the tone control could definitely perform a substancial difference.
+1 on the demo. Been checking youtube regularly since that monday.
Quote from: micromegas on August 27, 2014, 04:47:07 PM
I'm eager to hear how this pedal rings.. I assume you did not find the time to do the demo but, only to get a picture: does it sounds similar to the EQD Ghost Echo? Looking at the schematic I can see it shares some ideas but the Space pot has other configuration and the tone control could definitely perform a substancial difference.
I fired this up on Sunday, but haven't boxed it yet. The tone control is pretty dramatic and the way it interacts with other controls is also unique. It will get to the drone stage with things dimed, but can easily function as a typical reverb if you want that. The dry switch is also a really nice touch.
That's a beauty! I guess that's why your name is on the website. :)
Just finished the Sparklehorn build up today, so now I can demo both tomorrow. Sorry for the wait...but I had to get the SH finished up.
Here is the completed Sparklehorn build. The interior work is kinda meh. I had to do a few de-solders and replacement so the board got a bit cruddy. But, hey.
(http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/gallery/SparkleHorn2014.jpg)
Cool! Many knobs to turn! I know a couple of guys who could make a complete turn with something like the Spaklehorn...
Is there a specific reason for the 2 different kinds of 9mm pots?
I guess, there should be enough room for 2 rows of regular 9mm pots and I don't really like the plastic shaft ones.
Awesome build Brian!
I just cannot stop looking at that big, fat, unwired sleeve on the Output :o Especially after just spending 2 days debugging a DOD pedal only to find it wasn't working properly because the Output jack used the casing (which had paint on it) as the ground.
Quote from: m-Kresol on August 28, 2014, 03:02:45 PM
Is there a specific reason for the 2 different kinds of 9mm pots?
I guess, there should be enough room for 2 rows of regular 9mm pots and I don't really like the plastic shaft ones.
You don't have to use the plastic shaft ones. You can use the other kind. The only difference is the holes for the mounting clips are 1mm larger on the plastic shaft ones. But, you can still fold them over and solder them to the pad if you want. Better to give options for people who prefer different methods :)
QuoteI just cannot stop looking at that big, fat, unwired sleeve on the Output
It has continuity with ground (I checked). If it were all plastic, I would ground the sleeve but it isn't necessary here.
Quote from: madbean on August 28, 2014, 03:45:30 PM
It has continuity with ground (I checked). If it were all plastic, I would ground the sleeve but it isn't necessary here.
I see. The only reason I mention it is because... if for some reason the output jack comes loose... you lose EVEYTHING to static/hiss :-\
Quote from: madbean on August 28, 2014, 03:45:30 PM
Quote from: m-Kresol on August 28, 2014, 03:02:45 PM
Is there a specific reason for the 2 different kinds of 9mm pots?
I guess, there should be enough room for 2 rows of regular 9mm pots and I don't really like the plastic shaft ones.
You don't have to use the plastic shaft ones. You can use the other kind. The only difference is the holes for the mounting clips are 1mm larger on the plastic shaft ones. But, you can still fold them over and solder them to the pad if you want. Better to give options for people who prefer different methods :)
Thanks for clarifying that. Looking forward to my build
I hope this does not sound like a silly/obvious question but here go's. I have been reading over the notes for wiring on the MOODRING wiring page and for the "buffered" wiring image the two "yellow" wires from the dry are connected to where? Go easy on me, I am new to the DIY gang : )
Thanks, POGART
Quote from: pogart on September 15, 2014, 04:30:20 AM
I hope this does not sound like a silly/obvious question but here go's. I have been reading over the notes for wiring on the MOODRING wiring page and for the "buffered" wiring image the two "yellow" wires from the dry are connected to where? Go easy on me, I am new to the DIY gang : )
Thanks, POGART
The pins of an on-on spdt toggle switch. The wire from the square pad on the board goes to the center pin and the wire from the round pad goes to one of the outer pins. Then solder the unused outside pin to the center pin.
A spst switch can be used instead and would be wired the same way except the spst only has 2 pins so you wire one pad to one pin and the other pad to the other pin.
BTW Welcome to arguably the best pedal forum on the internet.
Richard
Thanks a million Richard. I completely get it : )
I have to agree, this is one cool place to spend time in reading and planning pedal builds. Just waiting on the mail to bring my bag of goodies to start.
POGART