Ok, don't answer that. I do have a real question though:
I have a Les Paul copy (Arbor) that I picked up on CL for $25. Hardware/electronics are a mess but I spent $40 at Guitarfetish and have a set of Duncan Design Distortion pickups to drop in there.
THE PROBLEM: previous owner reamed out the neck tone pot hole to move the pickup selector there.
THE QUESTION: can I tape off the inside/cavity and fill the hole with epoxy (Envirotex) and after curing drill a 3/8" hole for the tone pot and expect it to hold?
I've measured the existing hole and the skirt of the knob will cover it so aesthetics are not too much of a concern. I tried filling it with wood glue and toothpicks but it wouldn't support the pressure of a drill bit (splintered to pieces).
If the Envirotex is a crazy idea I guess I'd go with a dowel. Maybe there is some step down bushing to be had somewhere?
Thanks for your input.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it seems like i've seen some 2 part epoxy that is like clay, and you knead them together. i have heard that it can be machined after it cures, or maybe after it partially cures- can't remember. might be worth looking into?
Yeah, Envirotex is fairly soft epoxy. I wouldn't expect it to provide much structure. There are harder epoxies out there (as Keefe mentioned).
The wood dowel will be more reliable.
I would think a dowel would work. But maybe drill your hole before you cut it to the thickness you need and mount it to the body. Anything you fill that hole with will probably be so thin that it will be more prone to falling apart if drilling after it's in the body.
I would say your best bet would be either bondo or gluing a piece of dowel.
Richard
Dowel seems to be winning. Drilling prior to cutting to depth and gluing is a good tip. Makes a lot of sense.
Epoxy was the easiest solution (no materials to buy and I wouldn't have to go to the garage;). I need to be more patient, I start a project and I want to immediately complete it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, I'd dowel it as well, possibly with a bit of a flange on the underside of the guitar (might need a long shaft LP pot for that to work).
I'm no pro, but I'd tape off the outside rather than the inside, then overfill the hole with envirotex or a similar pour on epoxy. My idea being that giving a small amount of spill-over will give the epoxy more surface to bond to the wood, rather than only being able to adhere to the insides of the hole.
Envirotex really is a very soft epoxy.
I had to remove an envirotexed label off a pedal that I did about six months ago. It came right off and the whole thing is really really floppy. No rigidity to it at all (no "that's what she said" jokes, purty pleeze ;D). I doubt it would support anything.
Quote from: Jopn on October 16, 2014, 04:05:29 PM
I'm no pro, but I'd tape off the outside rather than the inside, then overfill the hole with envirotex or a similar pour on epoxy. My idea being that giving a small amount of spill-over will give the epoxy more surface to bond to the wood, rather than only being able to adhere to the insides of the hole.
If you were just filling the hole, this would work, but I'd suggest using cabinet maker wood filler instead. But the moment you try and drill it out for a pot, it will get torn right out.
Have you posted this at TDPRI or My Les Paul? Those forums have big builder communities.
So dowel plus wood filler (not wood glue?). Predrilled and sized to reduce stress on the bonded surface.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Playpunk, this is really the only community (and BYOC) I'm a part of. It is a good suggestion, maybe I should branch out:)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Depending on the depth and width of the hole, the only real solution is to dowel it. If you can, drill the hole out to fit a standard size dowel and glue it in with say titebond. If you can not get a reasonably tight fit fill the gap in with sawdust mixed with the titebond. This will provide a solid wood piece to drill and the bond between dowel and guitar body wood is about as strong as it gets. I really doubt the efficacy of any type of filler in this situation. Having to drill into the repair and mount a pot precludes it. Personally what I would do is take a piece of mahogany or similar easily worked wood and shape it as best to fit the hole. To fill what ever gaps remain save the saw dust from the wood you shaped and mix it with titebond. Coat the hole before tapping the new piece in place.
This may be a 'way outside the box' idea (the kind I usually come up with) but what about bonding in a flanged sleeve bearing? You can buy them with the ID you need and the flange gives you extra surface area for bonding and force distribution. You'll just need to size it down to the thickness of the guitar top and make sure the pot threads are long enough to reach through the flange. The flange could also be sanded down to reduce thickness.
Anyway, they look like this: (http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/large/6338kp1l.png?ver=10308912)
Here is a link to one place that sells them.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=u6gty7 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=u6gty7)
Just a thought.
Get some really runny superglue and baking soda. Tape off the outside.
Cover the inside of the hole with super glue, not too deep, but cover the whole surface.
Sprinkle baking soda into the wet glue. It will start to cure almost instantly, and when there isn't any wet glue, you're ready to repeat until the hole is flush. Careful though it can get hot while curing.
You can sand, drill, cut etc. by far the most reliable repair given the situation.
A dowel would normally be the right way to go, but it will be too short and prone to split given the grain direction.
Failing all this, I'd try washers since you're really just looking to shim it in a way that's not going to break.
I went to the hardware store and bought a dowel...but I also found a plastic spacer that was 1/2" outside diameter and 3/8" inside. Just need to trim it to the right depth. I won't be home till late tonight to try that out though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Meant to take a before. Here is a 1/2" dowel with a 5/16" hole. Used the saw dust to mix with wood glue. I'll let it dry 24hrs and report back.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/16/018e5ac5ec104b28ef43715dd1c96a0b.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If that doesn't hold, you could try JB welding a small metal plate inside the cavity to provide a backing, then fill the hole with JB weld. Once it cures, drill it to size, and the result will probably be stronger than the original wood.
If you do try to epoxy it, Devcon dries solid. I use it at work.
The dowel worked great. Thanks for all the input!!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/18/c9de41260ed7cdb196a1b280b26110a8.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/18/0a9f1580848d9eed58a331506ee98be8.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very nice execution!