Rob just posted this today and it looks like a great tutorial. Just wanted to share it.
Cody
Thanks Cody. His etches are always bad ass.
Steve.
Thanks for posting that. I want to start etching an enclosure in the next week or so.
Thanks for sharing!
Very cool and amazing stuff that Robert puts out and a fab tutorial! Sweet, thanks for posting!
Your fast Cody! Was just about to share this as well :D
very cool, i might actually give that a shot sometime soon. it looks so dang messy though!
Wow, that is very inviting to that finishing technique! :o
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:25:23 AM
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
3M offers for their car autoshop series of product, sanding paper made for wet sanding, it's though, does'nt get clogged fast and will rince easily under water.
Thanks Cody for posting this. Why do I think we're going to see a bunch of etched boxes now in the build reports?
Quote from: GrindCustoms on March 30, 2015, 04:26:58 AM
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:25:23 AM
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
3M offers for their car autoshop series of product, sanding paper made for wet sanding, it's though, does'nt get clogged fast and will rince easily under water.
thanks for the heads up. what kind is it, do you know? is it the silicon carbide type?
NM, i think i was searching for the wrong thing. i believe the correct type is aluminum oxide...
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:36:40 AM
Quote from: GrindCustoms on March 30, 2015, 04:26:58 AM
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:25:23 AM
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
3M offers for their car autoshop series of product, sanding paper made for wet sanding, it's though, does'nt get clogged fast and will rince easily under water.
thanks for the heads up. what kind is it, do you know? is it the silicon carbide type?
NM, i think i was searching for the wrong thing. i believe the correct type is aluminum oxide...
That's the one i use for mechanical jobs.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fsolutions.3m.com%2Fwps%2Fportal%2F3M%2Fen_US%2F3MIndustrial%2FAbrasives%2FProducts%2F~%2F3M-Trizact-Industrial-Diamond-QRS-Cloth-Sheet-673FA%3FN%3D7582984%2B3294229604%26rt%3Drud&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNEfccubXGHl1lbbh_B4tP4ZewqB5g
Coincidentally I was going to etch some more boxes today, though I've been using caustic soda instead.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/6fd8df58af3ce6f27e92e3205b93504f.jpg)
Don't forget to flip your images folks!
D'oh.
thanks for sharing.
he makes it look sooo easy! I have to admit that the actual etching isn't too hard. It's the toner transfer that always seems to screw it up for me. No matter how long I iron, I always loose a little bit of detail. I'll have to try a few more times, maybe a coarser grid sanding paper will do the trick. Also, I might give FeCl3 another shot.
I etched my first one the other day and I agree - once I got the toner on ok, the rest was easy. Took me four attempts to get it on right though! I was getting rather frustrated.
My one tip from my own experience is preheating the enclosure helps a lot with toner transfer. After I cut out the design, I line it up on the enclosure and use a piece of tape like a 'hinge.' fold it up and out of the way and heat the enclosure. Then, fold it down and commence to iron the bejesszus out of it for 4-5 minutes, putting extra emphasis on the edges.
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:36:40 AM
Quote from: GrindCustoms on March 30, 2015, 04:26:58 AM
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:25:23 AM
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
3M offers for their car autoshop series of product, sanding paper made for wet sanding, it's though, does'nt get clogged fast and will rince easily under water.
thanks for the heads up. what kind is it, do you know? is it the silicon carbide type?
NM, i think i was searching for the wrong thing. i believe the correct type is aluminum oxide...
I've an always full tub of water that has 3m sandpaper in it for months at a time, stuff lasts and lasts and it cuts great, really good sandpaper.
Quote from: m-Kresol on March 30, 2015, 05:13:28 PM
It's the toner transfer that always seems to screw it up for me. No matter how long I iron, I always loose a little bit of detail.
+1 :-\
Ever since I started using a Brayer I've had no issues with the transfer.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/097fbe480fe3dc310029aa4c9af44fd6.jpg)
Prep box, put image on, heat with iron, use brayer, heat again, roll again and repeat once more for luck. It usually works out.
Quote from: mmlee on March 30, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
Ever since I started using a Brayer I've had no issues with the transfer.
Prep box, put image on, heat with iron, use brayer, heat again, roll again and repeat once more for luck. It usually works out.
That's a great tip. Thanks for the share.
Cody
Quote from: davent on March 30, 2015, 05:56:53 PM
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:36:40 AM
Quote from: GrindCustoms on March 30, 2015, 04:26:58 AM
Quote from: Haberdasher on March 30, 2015, 04:25:23 AM
now to find some decent wet sandpaper that doesn't fall apart in 12 seconds, the stuff i have sucks
3M offers for their car autoshop series of product, sanding paper made for wet sanding, it's though, does'nt get clogged fast and will rince easily under water.
thanks for the heads up. what kind is it, do you know? is it the silicon carbide type?
NM, i think i was searching for the wrong thing. i believe the correct type is aluminum oxide...
I've an always full tub of water that has 3m sandpaper in it for months at a time, stuff lasts and lasts and it cuts great, really good sandpaper.
When I nitro'd my Tele I worked the holy hell out of my wet sandpaper including soaking it for a half hour and then proceeded to, what felt like to me, tear my rotator cuff's sanding with all types of grades and never had it fall apart. I went to a local auto zone and got all kinds of grits up to 2000. Worked a treat.
I use the 3M wet/dry auto sandpaper as well. 250, 400, and 600 grit will cover all your needs.
Good tutorial. Really pretty much how I do mine as well. Here is a pdf link of mine:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bzpig6axmhhpltm/Enclosure%20Etching%20Tutorial%20JPGuitarworks%202013.pdf
Quote from: mmlee on March 30, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
Ever since I started using a Brayer I've had no issues with the transfer.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/097fbe480fe3dc310029aa4c9af44fd6.jpg)
Prep box, put image on, heat with iron, use brayer, heat again, roll again and repeat once more for luck. It usually works out.
I'm totally going to try this. I'm done with a layout for my Zirconia and planing to etch the ZPSDX2 and Big Cheese too. thanks for the tip Marcus.
Quote from: m-Kresol on March 30, 2015, 09:46:27 PM
Quote from: mmlee on March 30, 2015, 07:47:15 PM
Ever since I started using a Brayer I've had no issues with the transfer.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/097fbe480fe3dc310029aa4c9af44fd6.jpg)
Prep box, put image on, heat with iron, use brayer, heat again, roll again and repeat once more for luck. It usually works out.
I'm totally going to try this. I'm done with a layout for my Zirconia and planing to etch the ZPSDX2 and Big Cheese too. thanks for the tip Marcus.
Just as a follow up. I tried this just now and I got a perfect transfer first try in a fraction of the time. Seriously guys, get a roller like this! Thanks mmlee!
Wow, that was fast. Glad it worked out! You can thank my girlfriend really, she likes doing printing using these things, she was the one that suggested it to me after my ironing woes.
Another thing, don't over etch. 'Just a little bit deeper' is probably not necessary (as I've found out from last nights etches, had some detail lost).
Great tutorial!
I'm gonna have to give that another try.
Tried once, but my mistake in doing it (probably one of many) was using the same chemicals I use to etch boards, Muriatic Acid/Hydrogen Peroxide.
Bad choice there.
It boiled violently, smoked, and got VERY, VERY hot.
Not a mixture I would recommend.
I've always used press n peel for this. Is he using str8 paper?
Quote from: ggarms on April 10, 2015, 04:07:23 AM
I've always used press n peel for this. Is he using str8 paper?
At the beginning of the video, it says photo paper.
Anyone else use photo paper? I've never had any luck with photo paper. For those of you successful with it, what are you using?
Quote from: CodeMonk on April 10, 2015, 04:28:23 AM
Quote from: ggarms on April 10, 2015, 04:07:23 AM
I've always used press n peel for this. Is he using str8 paper?
At the beginning of the video, it says photo paper.
Details. D'oh!
I tried photopaper and it was horrible. It got that plastic covering that melted itself to the enclosure and was a pain to get off. But i guess there are various types
My recent success was with regular glossy paper. Don't know the brand.
Cody's (selfdestroyer) tutorial names a specific one. I've also seen people use magazine paper
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: m-Kresol on April 10, 2015, 05:42:31 PM
I tried photopaper and it was horrible. It got that plastic covering that melted itself to the enclosure and was a pain to get off. But i guess there are various types
My recent success was with regular glossy paper. Don't know the brand.
Cody's (selfdestroyer) tutorial names a specific one. I've also seen people use magazine paper
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've used HP Glossy Presentation paper with good success.
Plus its about 1/3 the price of photo paper.
I've tried magazine paper.
The thing I didn't like about that was I couldn't see the trace very well on the paper with all the print on it.
Photo paper didn't work for me.
Glossy presentation paper does.