This one is for you who use decals and envirotex. Do you usually drill the box before you put the decal on or after you've put the decal on and the Envirotex?
http://juansolo.co.uk/stompage/finishing.html
I always drill before applying the decal.
Swarf is all over the shop when drilling die-cast boxes, and it is very easy to scratch/mark a decalled and lacquered enclosure.
Drill presses are messy, clunky, dirty things, so its best to keep your carefully finished enclosure away from all the manky shite!
Drilling first is more time consuming in the long run, but it gets better end results.
I also always step up in drill bit sizes too. Use a centre punch to mark drill locations. Starting with a small drill bit for guide holes (I use 3mm) and working up through the bit sizes required. My standard sequence is 3mm (guideholes) -> 6.4mm (LED+Toggle Switches) -> 7mm (Pots) -> 10mm (Jacks) -> 12mmm (3PDT) then finally 12.5mm (DC Jacks).
i drill holes, apply label, cut out label holes, tape holes from the inside, pour tex, redrill when cured. never had a single label lift.
I actually retrace my holes after I drill and reimport into my graphic program to make any necessary changes to the decal. Maybe overkill but I would rather my knob labels, etc. be aligned with the holes, it's less noticable that it's off that way.
I've found when I redrill the tex, if I touch the aluminum with the bit it warms up and the envirotex and lifts a little. I find it hard to tell exactly how far my step bit has gone in due to the debris produced.
I guess it be good to ditch the step bit for a fixed but to avoid this?
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Quote from: PhiloB on April 10, 2015, 06:00:40 AM
I've found when I redrill the tex, if I touch the aluminum with the bit it warms up and the envirotex and lifts a little. I find it hard to tell exactly how far my step bit has gone in due to the debris produced.
I guess it be good to ditch the step bit for a fixed but to avoid this?
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Stepless drill bits really make the difference.
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A decent set of drill bits can be had for not much ££
You have to swap bits between every step up in size of course, but drilling multiple enclosures at the same time saves most of the ball ache.
You can even buy pretty decent full drill presses, with chucks that can fit around 13mm, for under £100.
Delete this reply please
All 70+ have been drilled before.
On ocassion I've drilled a hole or something after and I usually try to reverse the drill so as not to pull up the tex. I'm usually sweating when I do this.
Quote from: PhiloB on April 10, 2015, 06:00:40 AM
I've found when I redrill the tex, if I touch the aluminum with the bit it warms up and the envirotex and lifts a little. I find it hard to tell exactly how far my step bit has gone in due to the debris produced.
I guess it be good to ditch the step bit for a fixed but to avoid this?
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What if you used a tapered hand reamer to clean up the resin rather then a drill bit?
Quote from: davent on April 10, 2015, 09:37:21 AM
Quote from: PhiloB on April 10, 2015, 06:00:40 AM
I've found when I redrill the tex, if I touch the aluminum with the bit it warms up and the envirotex and lifts a little. I find it hard to tell exactly how far my step bit has gone in due to the debris produced.
I guess it be good to ditch the step bit for a fixed but to avoid this?
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What if you used a tapered hand reamer to clean up the resin rather then a drill bit?
I've done that. Works good. The biggest thing I did was baby sit the pouring of the Tex for 45 minutes and swirl the excess out of the hole. I rarely had to get any left over excess out of the hole when doing this. When I did I would use a small sharp razor blade knife and stroke downward as I cut and went around the hold. You don't want to come back up cutting or it will pull it up.
^, #11 xacto sounds like the ticket.
Also, the second that blade gets just a little dull replace it.
Or get one of those blades where you break off a 1/2" piece as you go. There are like a dozen little pieces you can break off. Quick and easy.
Olfa's for anyone looking, great knives!