(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i101/monkeyssj1/2016-01-25%2013.57.11_1.jpg) (http://s70.photobucket.com/user/monkeyssj1/media/2016-01-25%2013.57.11_1.jpg.html)
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i101/monkeyssj1/2016-01-25%2016.59.57.jpg) (http://s70.photobucket.com/user/monkeyssj1/media/2016-01-25%2016.59.57.jpg.html)
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i101/monkeyssj1/2016-01-26%2018.01.02_1.jpg) (http://s70.photobucket.com/user/monkeyssj1/media/2016-01-26%2018.01.02_1.jpg.html)
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i101/monkeyssj1/2016-01-27%2001.23.56.jpg) (http://s70.photobucket.com/user/monkeyssj1/media/2016-01-27%2001.23.56.jpg.html)
(http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i101/monkeyssj1/2016-01-27%2011.03.41.jpg) (http://s70.photobucket.com/user/monkeyssj1/media/2016-01-27%2011.03.41.jpg.html)
I'm so happy this is finally done. I want to give a quick thanks to everyone that helped me with my LED issue in the tech help forum. Also thank you Stomptown for giving me the LED bypass help.
This is a Shoot the Moon Tremolo board I've had for a loooooonnnnnng time. This build gave me a good amount of trouble.. and definitely made me realize how lucky I was with some of my more complex builds that I've had no trouble on. Initially because of the backwards LED pads and my inability to trace on a schematic (something that was worked on a little with this build thanks to everyones help on the forum). The other frustration came from getting a little bit of ferric chloride into one of the holes where the screws go so I needed to do some drilling to get the screw to go in and stay. Now it can come out if I apply a little pressure from the bottom of the enclosure.. kinda useless but at least cosmetically serves a purpose.
I went back to etching via high gloss photo paper and it really does make a world of difference compared to using sharpie (even industrial high heat sharpie). For this one I drew the drawing on a piece of paper after tracing an outline of the enclosure and went to staples and scanned it.. (D's are backwards :P oops.) but I'm really happy with the way the etch came out along with the green theme. The D1 LED is wired as the main bypass LED and blinks when engaged.
I love this circuit.. It sounds wonderful and its so versatile. It can get anything from smooth swashes to dirty choppiness even into somewhat ring mod sounds.
What a great deep etch. Great job.
Cody
That is so cool. I'm gonna have to do the hand drawn thing for something soon.
That just looks cool as hell. Nice colour choice with the green.
Looks pretty awesome!
I need to give etching a try sometime in the near future.
Those boxes always look so freakin cool!
Nice job, and I think the backward D's are great!
Awesome etch, and points for hand drawing!
I'll just echo the above comments. That looks amazing! I dig the look of etched pedals.
That's my favorite diy tremolo. They are so freaking versatile.
That looks killa dude! I especially like the backwards D's and assumed it was on purpose. Glad you got it all figured out; it really is a great circuit.
Thanks for the compliments everyone :). I'm really happy the method worked out.. I've been too lazy to learn how to use a vector graphics program and drawing it on the fly makes way more sense to me. I still can't get enough of playing this pedal. Up next is the fuzz war (raw fuzz).
Awesome! Really cool looking etch. :)
The idea of doing those four designs around the knobs turned out great too.
Crazy cool! Love that etch, and the colour. Great build man :)
Ok, that is SWEET!!
Nice.
How do you do the transfer for the etch?
Chuck
That's so cool , I gots to learn how to do that!
Quote from: Jakes Dad on January 28, 2016, 01:53:06 PM
Nice.
How do you do the transfer for the etch?
Chuck
The transfer seems like the most important part. I follow most of the suggestions people have offered out on the forum and its made the process really painless and thorough. High gloss photo paper with max ink density from a laser printer. I then use a clothes iron and heat the image on the surface gradually going from low to high heat over the course of about twenty minutes. I also use a wall paper roller to press hard on the image through the entire process. Heat, press, heat, press, etc. The roller is definitely a very essential part of the process.
Quote from: monkeyssj1 on January 28, 2016, 02:29:50 PM
Quote from: Jakes Dad on January 28, 2016, 01:53:06 PM
Nice.
How do you do the transfer for the etch?
Chuck
The transfer seems like the most important part. I follow most of the suggestions people have offered out on the forum and its made the process really painless and thorough. High gloss photo paper with max ink density from a laser printer. I then use a clothes iron and heat the image on the surface gradually going from low to high heat over the course of about twenty minutes. I also use a wall paper roller to press hard on the image through the entire process. Heat, press, heat, press, etc. The roller is definitely a very essential part of the process.
So you scan the hand drawn image, reverse it and print on the photo paper?
Chuck
Not quite. I hand draw it and make potentiometer sides/words in reverse and then simply scan that image.
Looks pretty awesome!