madbeanpedals::forum

This is "Taprecise", an Arduino-based tap tempo control for PT 2399 based delays, that can be automatically calibrated to compensate any tolerance in the required digital pots (up to +/-30%). Calibration takes 2-3 minutes and only needs to be done once. After that, you get "what you tap is what you get". Features:

• Absolut precise tap-tempo control
• Rotary encoders for delay time fine tuning, modulation depth and speed
• Footswitches for tap tempo, preset, subdivision
• Mini switche for modulation on/off
• Subdivision for 1/8, dotted 8th, 1/3 triplets
• Two user-definable presets (can be stored in standalone mode, of course)
• Connection to Delay requires a simple stereo jack, which also powers the tap-tempo-unit
• Open source code to adjust code to user preferences (uploadable via accessible USB-Port on enclosure side)
• Fits in a 1590B

I assume, that this can be used for dual PT2399-Delays as well (see discussion here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=22253.msg222337#msg222337), but this still needs to be tested (by someone, who has a dual PT2399 delay ;D). Once I have put my delay (a deep blue delay) and Taprecise in two 1590Bs, I will offer this as a group buy (and also release latest documentation and updated code).

Developing taprecise took more than half a year with a lot of discussions with many users here - thank you for your input. I cancelled some features I had foreseen in the past (e.g. "strum tempo", which worked, but required too many components/space) and added some (e.g. the "preset" feature).

Group buy link: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=22682.0

Here are some preview images:

(http://s32.postimg.org/itfkoolsl/Clipboard01.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/phf0utdor/Drill_Template.jpg)
(http://s32.postimg.org/t4rxhcdhx/Clipboard02.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/tcs288sjv/IMG_4467.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/axc6ol3t7/IMG_4455.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/btmg99hmz/IMG_4460.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/hmrww33wr/IMG_4465.jpg)
(http://s31.postimg.org/7hxuk9aq3/IMG_4466.jpg)

so rad!!!!!!!!

This came together nicely. Great job man. I will definitely get in on a group buy.

Cody

Very cool, I'll probably get in on the gb as well.

Awesome job!

Right on! You are the MAN for sticking with this circuit. That's looking a fair bit tidier than the breadboard! Haha.

This is a really cool project! Lots of possibilities. Sign me up for one!

Any idea if this could be integrated into a larger controller like the one developing at TH_Customs? Coordinate presets and what not?

It's a microcontroller, so adding an interface would be possible. But: other layout, more storage for presets etc required .... So basically: take the source code and build it ( and share alike )

I've never played with anything like that. It looks awesome. I'd definitely be interested

Quote from: Leevibe on April 23, 2016, 06:16:42 AM
Right on! You are the MAN for sticking with this circuit. That's looking a fair bit tidier than the breadboard! Haha.

Thanks so much :-)! I already have plans for an even more nerdy thing: A universal pot that can emulate pots from 5k through 500k, any taper (Lin, log, rev log, ICAR) and can be controlled with any pot/foot rocker. Think of a pedalboard with just one expression pedal that controls either way, volume or vibe...

Quote from: selfdestroyer on April 23, 2016, 01:31:44 AM
This came together nicely. Great job man. I will definitely get in on a group buy.

Cody

Same here!

That looks great, and this even more :

Quote from: mfunky on April 24, 2016, 04:42:38 AM
Thanks so much :-)! I already have plans for an even more nerdy thing: A universal pot that can emulate pots from 5k through 500k, any taper (Lin, log, rev log, ICAR) and can be controlled with any pot/foot rocker. Think of a pedalboard with just one expression pedal that controls either way, volume or vibe...

Make sure to let us know if you pull this off :-)

Quote from: mfunky on April 24, 2016, 04:42:38 AM

Quote from: Leevibe on April 23, 2016, 06:16:42 AM
Right on! You are the MAN for sticking with this circuit. That's looking a fair bit tidier than the breadboard! Haha.

Thanks so much :-)! I already have plans for an even more nerdy thing: A universal pot that can emulate pots from 5k through 500k, any taper (Lin, log, rev log, ICAR) and can be controlled with any pot/foot rocker. Think of a pedalboard with just one expression pedal that controls either way, volume or vibe...

Let me know what you find out - I looked into it and I dont think it is possible. (Using a single digital pot)

Quote from: Thomas_H on April 25, 2016, 06:03:52 AM
Let me know what you find out - I looked into it and I dont think it is possible. (Using a single digital pot)

I would not use a digital pot (due to noise when changed), but rather use two Vacontrols or LED/LDR combination and (LPF'd) PWM from the arduino side. I would calibrate the microprocessor to both, the used foot control pot for input (measure 10 points or so directly from the arduino) and the output (resistance depending at given PWM). My biggest concern is, that the LDR's don't go to zero resistance and are higly non-linear.

For Volume Control, I would probably put the LDR in the feedback loop of an opamp (so it does not have to go down to 0 Ohm) to achieve unity gain. For Wah use, I am not concerned that much, as it seems to work well in Morley Wahs. This would likely be true for other use cases (Univibe etc.) as well.

Not sure you had seen that but RobA (where has he been lately??) had done some work in this direction:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=18698.msg191575#msg191575

A lot of it is way over my head but it might be interesting to you.

Quote from: drolo on April 25, 2016, 06:48:47 AM
Not sure you had seen that but RobA (where has he been lately??) had done some work in this direction:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=18698.msg191575#msg191575

A lot of it is way over my head but it might be interesting to you.

Great - a fantastic basis for what I want to do! Thanks a lot!

BTW - started the group buy here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=22682.0

Fully epic dude, pcb looks awesome!  Congrats on this, it's a real landmark for diy tap tempo imho
I look forward to seeing the implementations in the DIY community :)

• I finalized the enclosure (in terms of drilling, no labels yet), updated pictures (including gutshot) in the first post.
• I also added the source code as an attachment to the first post.
• Documentation will follow.
• Group buy not closed yet, but I will have to reorder PCBs already, so most of you will have to wait for a couple of weeks after I sent you the paypal details (which I haven't done yet).

AWESOME!

&WANT!!!!

Please add your Name to The group Buy list

I also added the documentation to the first post in this thread now.

Quote from: mfunky on April 29, 2016, 05:51:44 AM
I also added the documentation to the first post in this thread now.

Great job on the documentation.

Quote from: selfdestroyer on April 29, 2016, 10:27:10 AM

Quote from: Marshall Arts on April 29, 2016, 05:51:44 AM
I also added the documentation to the first post in this thread now.

Great job on the documentation.

It may not be perfect English, though :-)

Hi Matthias, I am close to finish my taprecise (waiting for few parts)... Since I don't know anything about coding and those stuff, what do I need for uploading code to arduino nano? Just a mini usb cable or? BTW where did you get that mini usb cable? :D Also I have arduino uno which I never used..

Thanks for doing this
Brane

Quote from: brejna on June 23, 2016, 03:46:41 AM
Hi Matthias, I am close to finish my taprecise (waiting for few parts)... Since I don't know anything about coding and those stuff, what do I need for uploading code to arduino nano? Just a mini usb cable or? BTW where did you get that mini usb cable? :D Also I have arduino uno which I never used..

Thanks for doing this
Brane

Hey Brane,

Start here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

I recommend to try to upload some of the included samples to the nano first, in order to see, if the upload works. You dont want to find out, that it does not work, once you have soldered it to the taprecise board ;-). Try the "Blink" sample, as it doesnt require any additional components. If it doesn't work (because you bought a cheap copy from China, you bad boy!), you can usually fix the with a specific driver (e.g. http://www.jens-bretschneider.de/aktuelle-treiber-fur-seriell-zu-usb-adapter/). I know that from experience (which makes me a bad boy as well, I gues...).

The cable I use came with a navigation system I bought 200x, but you can get 'em on ebay as well.

Let me know how it goes!

Quote from: Marshall Arts on June 23, 2016, 05:09:37 AM

Quote from: brejna on June 23, 2016, 03:46:41 AM
Hi Matthias, I am close to finish my taprecise (waiting for few parts)... Since I don't know anything about coding and those stuff, what do I need for uploading code to arduino nano? Just a mini usb cable or? BTW where did you get that mini usb cable? :D Also I have arduino uno which I never used..

Thanks for doing this
Brane

Hey Brane,

Start here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

I recommend to try to upload some of the included samples to the nano first, in order to see, if the upload works. You dont want to find out, that it does not work, once you have soldered it to the taprecise board ;-). Try the "Blink" sample, as it doesnt require any additional components. If it doesn't work (because you bought a cheap copy from China, you bad boy!), you can usually fix the with a specific driver (e.g. http://www.jens-bretschneider.de/aktuelle-treiber-fur-seriell-zu-usb-adapter/). I know that from experience (which makes me a bad boy as well, I gues...).

The cable I use came with a navigation system I bought 200x, but you can get 'em on ebay as well.

Let me know how it goes!

I missed your message :/

Thanks for all info, unfortunately I already solder arduino nano :D I hope it works. Soon as my cable comes I will know the truth :)

hello there! This is an amazing looking project!
Just wanting to know if the code and schematic are available?
Would love to try this out!
Thanks!

I got my mini usb cable and I plugged it to soldered arduino mini on my board and I have blinking LED, so it works right? :D What are basic settings?

Board is: Arduino mini?
Processor:??
Port:??
Programmer:?

Thanks
Brane

Quote from: brejna on July 26, 2016, 10:14:39 AM
I got my mini usb cable and I plugged it to soldered arduino mini on my board and I have blinking LED, so it works right? :D What are basic settings?

Board is: Arduino mini?
Processor:??
Port:??
Programmer:?

Thanks
Brane

Using the standard Arduino IDE (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software), you should be able to connect to the arduino using the following settings:

Tools - Board - Arduino Nano. No additional settings were required in my environment. Try to upload the blink program (File - Examples - Basic - Blink) and see if the onboard LED blinks. If it works, you obviously can upload software to your nano.

Next thing you need to do is calibrate it. There is a description on how to do that in the documentation (next post).

After that, you can upload the tap tempo program itself and happily use it!

Let me know.

Best,
mfunky

Quote from: micahvdm on July 24, 2016, 12:13:13 PM
hello there! This is an amazing looking project!
Just wanting to know if the code and schematic are available?
Would love to try this out!
Thanks!

Thanks, sure:

Documentation: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5vtgOg9bRJjeGpHWDFvOTVWNXM/view?usp=sharing
Code: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5vtgOg9bRJjY0FieVlldmhreXc/view?usp=sharing

Best,
mfunky

Thank you kindly!!!
I've actually been following this for quite some time...stumbled upon it on a different forum (the name escapes me)
Really clean and well commented code!!

Quote from: Marshall Arts on July 28, 2016, 12:00:48 AM

Quote from: brejna on July 26, 2016, 10:14:39 AM
I got my mini usb cable and I plugged it to soldered arduino mini on my board and I have blinking LED, so it works right? :D What are basic settings?

Board is: Arduino mini?
Processor:??
Port:??
Programmer:?

Thanks
Brane

Using the standard Arduino IDE (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software), you should be able to connect to the arduino using the following settings:

Tools - Board - Arduino Nano. No additional settings were required in my environment. Try to upload the blink program (File - Examples - Basic - Blink) and see if the onboard LED blinks. If it works, you obviously can upload software to your nano.

Next thing you need to do is calibrate it. There is a description on how to do that in the documentation (next post).

After that, you can upload the tap tempo program itself and happily use it!

Let me know.

Best,
mfunky

Thanks for help, I did blink test and it works. What is first thing I should upload from your file? I tried to upload _151129_read_eeprom.ino and I think it didn't happen, same thing happened with _160403_Main_Code_PT2399_Control

Cheers
Brane

EDIT: I am receiving this error
"exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino Nano."

Take The third one "calibrate" and Follow The instructions in The Build doc. Calibration Needs to be done before the others can work

P.S. If you keep getting the error message, try to restart your computer or connect to another USB port.

I tried all above you suggested but I keep getting this error. Do I need to populate whole pcb to get it working?

Quote from: brejna on July 31, 2016, 12:47:25 AM
I tried all above you suggested but I keep getting this error. Do I need to populate whole pcb to get it working?

No, you don't need to populate the complete board. You will probably find help on the arduino boards a bugfix (I never had that error), but I would try the following (and let me know the results):

- Try to upload a couple of the samples (not just "blink") - does it work?
- When opening the "calbrate" program, do you see the second tab ("EEPROMAnything.h")?
- Do you have the included libraries SPI.h and EEPROM.h in your path (should be default with installation: Folders in C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries)?
- Try to JUST COMPILE "calibrate" (not upload). Does it work?
- If not, try to change your board to another board and just compile it for that - does it work?
- Which version of the IDE are you using? Mine is 1.6.4. and I just checked, that the compile works flawlessly...

Please do not populate the board further, until we have sorted this out.

Best,
Mfunky

P.S. Maybe I can send you a compiled file, yet I have to find out, where they are (temporarily) stored, and if there would be an easy way for you to upload these. However, I would prefer if you could compile and upload it, so you can tweak features (e.g. modulation or max delay time) in the code if you want.

Hi Matthias, I tried everything and still nothing.. I cannot upload other examples now, I tried compiling as you recommend for other boards and nothing, I see second tab as default in the path and I tried 1.6.4, 1.6.5, 1.6.9 and 1.6.10 version of IDE.

I don't know if this has to do anything with my system update to Win10..

Cheers
Brane

  Damn. I don't use win 10 yet, so it's hard to tell. Try to get another arduino nano and try to upload the programs there before soldering.  If that works, I will send you a second board free of charge. Rather than trying to Bugfix this , I guess you will save time with this approach. There are cheap ones on eBay,  they work fine for me.

Gesendet von meinem SM-J120FN mit Tapatalk

Quote from: Marshall Arts on August 14, 2016, 02:24:46 AM
  Damn. I don't use win 10 yet, so it's hard to tell. Try to get another arduino nano and try to upload the programs there before soldering.  If that works, I will send you a second board free of charge. Rather than trying to Bugfix this , I guess you will save time with this approach. There are cheap ones on eBay,  they work fine for me.

Gesendet von meinem SM-J120FN mit Tapatalk

Thanks for all help and kind offer,  I am waiting for my friend who is Software programmer if he can help me with these arduinos, if there is no cure I will PM you.

Cheers
Brane

OK. .. I am here, if you need help

Good news, soldered arduino nano works :) I had problems with ports and I didn't understand part about EEPROMAnything.h I added it and  I calibrated delay like in procedure. After that I tried to upload read eeprom, but it showed me error, so I added again EEPROMAnything.h as another tab and it did upload. I opened serial monitor and it shows me very similar results as yours, buuuut I don't have any control over delay and leds are not flashing on Taprecise.

I am satisfied with results so far :D and you are really an extraordinary person! Amazing job
Thanks for everything
Brane

Update: I uploded Main code and now I have tap tempo, subdivisions and modulation, but delay control is not working and is it normal that I cannot go back from presets to tap tempo?

EDIT: I can confirm everything works flawlessly, I had broken trace so delay pot was not working and I was storing presets wrong way.
Thanks Matthias for the great project and all of your help!
Cheers
Brane

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/6d64ff6b69d7e4590279f7a18581fc3b.jpg)

Congrats! With my setup, I can go back from presets to tap tempo (of course) and also the delay control works (of course). I can only think of a mechanical/soldering cause (not questioning your outstanding skills, looking at your projects :-)). If software works on one chip, it reacts the same way on another chip... Please check...

Quote from: Marshall Arts on September 13, 2016, 06:58:13 AM
Congrats! With my setup, I can go back from presets to tap tempo (of course) and also the delay control works (of course). I can only think of a mechanical/soldering cause (not questioning your outstanding skills, looking at your projects :-)). If software works on one chip, it reacts the same way on another chip... Please check...

Thanks, this is one of the best projects I did. I can confirm everything works on other chips too. Thanks again for sharing this, I will probably build another one :D

So I've been struggling off and on with the project for a while now.  After I run the calibration, I downloaded the read_EEPROM and all my values are either zero or one. I did it a few times. I can hear the beeps though my amp and  as it runs the cal, I heard the repeats change. But it doesn't seem to work properly. After downloading the main code, I try to change the rate, the led flash change does change but the actual rate stays at an extremely short delay. The modulation works great though...quite a nice substitute for a light chorus effect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 

Quote from: Aka180 on December 11, 2016, 05:54:19 PM
So I've been struggling off and on with the project for a while now.  After I run the calibration, I downloaded the read_EEPROM and all my values are either zero or one. I did it a few times. I can hear the beeps though my amp and  as it runs the cal, I heard the repeats change. But it doesn't seem to work properly. After downloading the main code, I try to change the rate, the led flash change does change but the actual rate stays at an extremely short delay. The modulation works great though...quite a nice substitute for a light chorus effect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

There must be something wrong in the way you set up the system during the calibration process - let's try to fix it:

Check, if you are using the latest version of the calibration software (attached).
Check solder joints on Pin A0 and R2 and Calib-1.

Follow the instructions in the manual for the setup of the delay:
• Set Delay Repeats to a high value, just before self-oscillation is perfect
• Set volume of repeats to UNITY GAIN (Repeats same volume as beep)
• If your Delay has a volume knob, set to unity gain as well
• Switch off any modulation, you may have
• Your guitar can stay plugged into input jack of the delay, amp can stay plugged into the output of the delay: You will hear the beeps and the delays over your amp
• Solder or clip the calibration wires to the delay input and output jacks
• Upload the "calibration" program.
• Wait until the preset LED turns from red to green. The calibration is done!

You can try the attached software to check, if taprecise works generally. It writes the relevant values of my delay to your eeprom memory (they will not be precise in your system, given the tolerances).

Let us know.

News on Taprecise: I had a dual-PT2399 (Madbean Deathclaw) lying around for quite some time now and since I started the Taprecise project (2014?), I always wanted to proove that you can use it with such a delay as well. Over the weekend, I added taprecise to my deathclaw delay and it works perfectly, which means that any dual-PT2399-delay can now be enhanced with precise tap tempo for delay times up to one second.

Still to do:

• As I dont have I don't have a MCP41050 (50k digital pot - deathclaw forsees a 50k pot for delay time adjustment) available, I need to adjust the calibrate program a little bit, if I use the MCP41100 (100k) digital pot. Otherwise, the calibrate routine will try to measure delay time beyond two seconds (which deathclaw obviously cannot provide)
  
• Modulation does not (fully) work (yet). Manual setting of depth and speed work, but the routine to automatically set pleasant values depending on the chosen delay times needs to be reworked.
• Documentation (as always).

Hmmm a dual PT2399 with tap tempo, presets and modulation (I know you'll make it work) sounds very very promising!! :)

Awesome

Quote from: Marshall Arts on February 20, 2017, 12:55:36 AM
News on Taprecise: I had a dual-PT2399 (Madbean Deathclaw) lying around for quite some time now and since I started the Taprecise project (2014?), I always wanted to proove that you can use it with such a delay as well. Over the weekend, I added taprecise to my deathclaw delay and it works perfectly, which means that any dual-PT2399-delay can now be enhanced with precise tap tempo for delay times up to one second.

Still to do:

• As I dont have I don't have a MCP41050 (50k digital pot - deathclaw forsees a 50k pot for delay time adjustment) available, I need to adjust the calibrate program a little bit, if I use the MCP41100 (100k) digital pot. Otherwise, the calibrate routine will try to measure delay time beyond two seconds (which deathclaw obviously cannot provide)
  
• Modulation does not (fully) work (yet). Manual setting of depth and speed work, but the routine to automatically set pleasant values depending on the chosen delay times needs to be reworked.
• Documentation (as always).

Everything is done and tested, modulation works, documentation and code updated, everything attached to this post. I will start a group buy now, should anybody be interested in a PCB, please reply there.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5vtgOg9bRJjN2NkdkVGTzdQRnc (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5vtgOg9bRJjN2NkdkVGTzdQRnc)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5vtgOg9bRJjUGs3WE9McUcwMXc (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5vtgOg9bRJjUGs3WE9McUcwMXc)

Wow, thanks for sharing. This is an impressive piece of work!

Quote from: bluescage on March 20, 2017, 08:11:18 AM
Wow, thanks for sharing. This is an impressive piece of work!

Welcome - I pulled so much knowledge from this community, it was time to give something back. I will put my deathclaw now in a large enclosure together with taprecise, this will most likely be all the delay I will ever need... well, until that bug bites me again ;-)

Link to group buy: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25177.new;topicseen

Ok, I finally managed to put everything together in a dual PT2399 delay with tap tempo, modulation, presets... all the fancy stuff I mentioned above.

While I was doing that, I did some updates to the code, which is now available in version 2.5 - especially the modulation section was optimized, so there is always a nice mod touch, disregarding, which tempo you may tap in (up to 800 ms... could be a bit more, but I dont need more and the delays get really dirty after that). Documentation and code are updated (links above). I also cleaned up the code a bit for better readability for those who love to tweak it (learn Arduino - it's fun!). Everything under creative commons, so feel free!

(https://s6.postimg.org/fb27i4c01/IMG_5579.jpg)
(https://s6.postimg.org/xrwm8xry9/IMG_5582.jpg)

The enclosure is for a "working musician", no time for fancy stuff here ;-). Oh yes, and the group buy for Taprecise PCB's is available...

Yeah that looks awesome, great job! The guy is gonna be really happy I'm sure!

BTW - I am building an analog delay (DMM/MBP Total Recall) very soon and I am confident, that it will be controllable with taprecise as well: During the initial calibration, taprecise sets the digital pot that controls the delay time of the delay (in this case a 100k Pot) to a specific value. It than sends out a "Ping" and measures the resulting delay time. The result is a table with two collums: "Digital value of the digital pot" and "resulting delay time". It doesn't really matter, if the delay is the result of an analog or digital circuit...

Excuse me i was in the process of ordering for some projects and i have a doubt with the alp pots, i havent used these before, could you please tell me if some of these is the right one?
http://www.mouser.es/Electromechanical/Encoders/_/N-39xfc?Keyword=alps+ec12e+sw&FS=True

I havent seen one marked as SW
Thanks a lot
  Sergio

Quote from: Spacebass on July 11, 2017, 12:13:19 PM
Excuse me i was in the process of ordering for some projects and i have a doubt with the alp pots, i havent used these before, could you please tell me if some of these is the right one?
http://www.mouser.es/Electromechanical/Encoders/_/N-39xfc?Keyword=alps+ec12e+sw&FS=True

I havent seen one marked as SW
Thanks a lot
  Sergio

Sorry for the VERY late reply, havent been into pedal building recently... The encoders will work, try to get the ones with higher resolutions. They will allow for more precise settings. If too much spinning is required for required changes, you can always change the code to compensate for that (but you cannot do it vice versa ;-)).

Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot Marshall,
i ll apply it to a modified  deathklaw. I have an ibanez de7 that sounds very good and has about 2s max delay time. Its a digital delay, do you think this tap tempo could be applied to the ibanez? Thank you

https://elektrotanya.com/ibanez_de7.pdf/download.html

Should work, but be careful... seems to be a packed device!

As the delay time potentiometer is a 20 kA, try a 50 k digital pot (they don't come in 20 k...). Replace the old one with that, calibrate, enjoy, let us know the results! Modulation might not work, though.

Hmmmm, a tap tempo DE7... sounds amazing!! :)

Hi guys, I've adapted wampler faux echo to work directly with taprecise if someone is interested here is pcb http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=26696.0 and build report http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=26630.0
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/56f7138d447f0e44389add9ab330d84b.jpg)
Cheers
Brane

I feel seriously honored! Any Chance for a video?

 Tapatalk double Post deleted... Sorry

I could try to make one, I don't have that great equipment.. But it could be representative.
Thank you for your work! If you didn't do this, chances to build tap delay with this much option were very low..

Quote from: brejna on November 06, 2017, 10:41:27 AM
I could try to make one, I don't have that great equipment.. But it could be representative.
Thank you for your work! If you didn't do this, chances to build tap delay with this much option were very low..

Would be great, just to see it work with yet another delay (I built it with a deep blue delay and a deathclaw). Thanks!

Gesendet von meinem NOTE Plus mit Tapatalk

Here an short clip with Arburat delay with Taprecise..

Quote from: brejna on November 07, 2017, 11:18:44 AM
Here an short clip with Arburat delay with Taprecise..

Wohoo! Great sounds, great playing. Thanks a lot, that really means something to me. Developing Taprecise was fun, but way too much effort. But now, it doesn't feel like wasted time any more [emoji41]

Thanks for kind words, I don't know anything about programing, but I can say this is one of the best diy project that I've build. Thanks for sharing it. :)
Cheers

Quote from: Marshall Arts on May 08, 2017, 06:41:48 AM
BTW - I am building an analog delay (DMM/MBP Total Recall) very soon and I am confident, that it will be controllable with taprecise as well: During the initial calibration, taprecise sets the digital pot that controls the delay time of the delay (in this case a 100k Pot) to a specific value. It than sends out a "Ping" and measures the resulting delay time. The result is a table with two collums: "Digital value of the digital pot" and "resulting delay time". It doesn't really matter, if the delay is the result of an analog or digital circuit...

Have you had any progress on this by any chance? I recently received a total recall pcb in the recent pifs and would love to implement taprecise in it to have the ultimate analog delay!

Quote from: senoravocado on December 12, 2017, 06:15:49 AM

Quote from: Marshall Arts on May 08, 2017, 06:41:48 AM
BTW - I am building an analog delay (DMM/MBP Total Recall) very soon and I am confident, that it will be controllable with taprecise as well: During the initial calibration, taprecise sets the digital pot that controls the delay time of the delay (in this case a 100k Pot) to a specific value. It than sends out a "Ping" and measures the resulting delay time. The result is a table with two collums: "Digital value of the digital pot" and "resulting delay time". It doesn't really matter, if the delay is the result of an analog or digital circuit...

Have you had any progress on this by any chance? I recently received a total recall pcb in the recent pifs and would love to implement taprecise in it to have the ultimate analog delay!

Sorry, did not build it yet :-(. Other Projects grabbed my attention.... Will do it , though.

Hi Guys  :)
I have built TAPRECISE with Deep Blue Delay and everything works excellent but modulation.
At the beginning  after turn power on modulation works fine but immediately after change tap tempo both by tap tempo momentary foot switch or by rotary encoder (fine tune delay) modulation disappear and delay continue to works fine  without mod. I tried to change values in main code to increase modulation 150-255 and always the same, mod stops after change tempo. Modulation starts after unplugging and plugging power cable.
Please help if the problem is in the code or elsewhere  :'(
All the best and happy holidays  ;D

Works great with my build, but I will Double Check the Code. Does Not Sound Like a hw Problem...

Please try again with the original, unaltered Code Just to make Sure...

Yes I will do it tomorrow. I started with original one few days ago version 1.2. I use 50k digipot and calibrated it with 250 not 160 with max delay time of 600ms. Mayby to try main code 1.0 2016? It seems to me that something stops mod signal on pin 9.

Does anyone still have the board? I am interested to build this pedal.

I will Check, but guess I ran out of boards. If you can wait for some weeks, I can order new ones. Just let me know, please...

Sure, let me know when it's ready. I am in a pool for one board. Seems really interesting build. I've never done pedals with arduino. I bet it's going to be fun.

 :) I uploaded code  Version 1.0 and it works fine so far. No modulation disappearing after changing tap tempo :)
It seems to me that Version 1.0 code is more suitable for single PT2399 delays :)
Are there any staffs in 1.2 main code improved for single PT delays, maybe to copy in 1.0 version main code? I saw different limits for modulation in ver 1.0 from 10 to 245 and in ver 1.2 240 to 250 (245 average) which is better conception?
All the best

Quote from: popair on December 29, 2017, 10:20:44 PM
:) I uploaded code  Version 1.0 and it works fine so far. No modulation disappearing after changing tap tempo :)
It seems to me that Version 1.0 code is more suitable for single PT2399 delays :)
Are there any staffs in 1.2 main code improved for single PT delays, maybe to copy in 1.0 version main code? I saw different limits for modulation in ver 1.0 from 10 to 245 and in ver 1.2 240 to 250 (245 average) which is better conception?
All the best

You are so right, version 1.0 is for single PT2399 delays, version 1.2 is for dual PT2399 delays ONLY. The main change was indeed the modulation, as dual PT delays need quite some different values to always sound nice (at every tapped speed, that is). There were no other mentionable changes, if I remember correctly.

Glad, it is working for you now.

P.S. I am currently dealing with Arduino in the context of stompboxes again (building a relay-switch that mutes while switching on a hi-gain-pedal). Using an ATtiny for these things is great (the size of a standard 8-pin-opamp). This switch works, but I am thinking about what else we could do with additional options from a momentary switch (e.g., starting an oscillation, if you press and HOLD the switch, double tap options etc.). Nice, ew?

Thank you very much Marshall :)
I did not read carefully :)
You have very interesting projects and looking forward to it :) AVR ATtiny 85, 24 and 13 do the most things I need in my projects and planning to adapt Taprecise to one of them  ;D I have already projected and tested PCB for Taprecise in SMD  :) If you like I will send you project, privately, made via Easyeda because people ask you for PCBs and this one is reduced size.

Wow, cool! Yes, please send me the PCB-designs via PM (although I use EAGLE), I might need them for an upcoming project. It is so nice to see people grab what is available and make something new from it ;-)

It seems it can be done in 1590G/A. I am looking forward for the next group buy.

 :) Yes it may fit in 1590G, dimensions of PCB are 69x39mm but momentary foot switches must be smaller  :)

Hey guys I had a quick question, I bought all the materials for this project except for the rotary encoders. I know there is a link to buy some in the bill of materials, but they were a little more expensive so I thought I could try and look around for something equivalent. Rotary encoders are a component that I am not too familiar with so I am not sure what the crucial parameters are for the taprecise that I need to be looking for. I think I found something that may be similar on Arrow.com, I compared the datasheets and they seem to be similar! It has 15 pulses, 30 detents and runs on 5v so to my eye it looks alright. I has hoping you guys could give me an opinion on whether the below rotary encoder would be a suitable replacement for the ALPS_EC12E_SW ones listed in the BOM before I pulled the trigger. I saw that they had free shipping for a little while so it could end up being a lot cheaper! thanks again everyone!

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/pec11l-4220f-s0015/bourns

They look OK for me... Good luck!

Thank you! I will get them and report back!

Hi, this topic seems to be a bit old, but i will ask anyway :)
This is a really cool project, thank you very much for sharing it.
Is it possible to use only the tap tempo functionality, and make it as simple as possible? The reason is I would like to place this inside the delay enclosure itself, which is a "B" type. It would be nice if it could be done. Could it also run on an ATtiny85, or 84 if more pins are needed??

Thanks for this cool project

João

Yes, that should work. Always wanted to do it, never found the time... If you do it, please share the layout and the adapted code. You need the digital pot in the enclosure as well...

P. S. You need to find a way to embed the calibration routine in the main code. I would try to start that, when the tap button is pressed on power up...

Thanks for your answer..
:) I am not a programmer.. I can blink LEDs on arduino though :D I guess that is not enough to do the requested changes, right?? :)
One of the reasons I asked was that perhaps it was possible to just use the tap tempo without any changes to the code, and just compile it for an attiny? Hmmm, the problem is that the attiny has less pins right? so the code must be adapted :(
I could also make a DBD board and include the m328 chip and resonator. Perhaps I could make it all fit in one B type enclosure if I go SMD on most components, and double sided PCB..

Thank you.

João

Quote from: jhsa on November 14, 2018, 04:38:40 AM
Thanks for your answer..
:) I am not a programmer.. I can blink LEDs on arduino though :D I guess that is not enough to do the requested changes, right?? :)
One of the reasons I asked was that perhaps it was possible to just use the tap tempo without any changes to the code, and just compile it for an attiny? Hmmm, the problem is that the attiny has less pins right? so the code must be adapted :(
I could also make a DBD board and include the m328 chip and resonator. Perhaps I could make it all fit in one B type enclosure if I go SMD on most components, and double sided PCB..

Thank you.

João

Reprogramming is absolutely necessary for that. But you can do it, my code is open source (well... Creative Commons BY)

yeah, my problem is (as I said above), I can barely blink a couple LEDs :) Your code is a bit too complicated for me :) But I will have a netter look and try to make some sense of it :)

João

I might try it at some point as well, but am too busy currently, as I am working on my Linda Looper redesign. Seems like there is a lot of interest in Arduino-based control solutions ;-)

Thank You..

João

Where is the link to the code?

Quote from: Leetut on April 07, 2019, 01:34:07 PM
Where is the link to the code?

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5vtgOg9bRJjVGlIVDZxUUxfSDA

thank you!!

Hey! I wast just pointed to this fantastic project whilst looking for a Taptation-Chip. Now I stop wondering, why the Taptation seems to vanish from most stores.

This here is brillant (I really hope I'll get it to work, unfortunately I'll have to wait some time to get the parts beacuse the digipots are not readliy available in my usual stores).

Thanks a LOT for sharing this freely and keeping the DIY spirit alive.

Quote from: lars-musik on October 30, 2019, 02:36:11 AM
Hey! I wast just pointed to this fantastic project whilst looking for a Taptation-Chip. Now I stop wondering, why the Taptation seems to vanish from most stores.

This here is brillant (I really hope I'll get it to work, unfortunately I'll have to wait some time to get the parts beacuse the digipots are not readliy available in my usual stores).

Thanks a LOT for sharing this freely and keeping the DIY spirit alive.

Glad you like it! Let us know about your build progress!

my RGB led has a different pin out, left to right GR-B is yours and BG-R is mine
so I changed this to fix it
float colorarray[] = {0, LOW, 255, 255, LOW, 0, 0, HIGH, LOW, 0, HIGH, 200};

Really gotta take a look at this once the looper board is finished.

Quote from: Leetut on November 27, 2019, 04:23:05 AM
my RGB led has a different pin out, left to right GR-B is yours and BG-R is mine
so I changed this to fix it
float colorarray[] = {0, LOW, 255, 255, LOW, 0, 0, HIGH, LOW, 0, HIGH, 200};

Did you find a way to fix this, or is this still open?

Hi,

I finally came 'round to populate my PCB for this project, hooked it up to a working Deep-Blue-Clone and ran into some troubles. As soon as I connect the calibration wire 1 to the output (or to the input for that matter) the delay falls quiet.
Here's my copied schematic -  do you spot any mistake? Or some help in term of troubleshooting? If I cannot use my audioprobe I am lost. R400 is 10k.

Thanks!!

(https://i.postimg.cc/QdMthQpt/Taprecise-schem.jpg)


EDIT:

I went through the instructions again. I don't really get what this SPDT does there. I didn't populate the R18 and soldered the CTRL cable from the TAPRECISE directly to pin6 of the pt2399. Good?

(https://i.postimg.cc/j5wc27Qz/question.jpg)

GOT IT!!!!!! AAARGH! I forget the ground connection at the mod switch. AND I didn't wire the switch anyways because stupid me thought (because I overlooked the ground connection) the switch wouldn't be necessary for the calibration routine....
It is calibrating atm. I'll get back later!


It works. That is soo cool!

Thanks a heap for your work and sharing, Marshall Arts!

Quote from: lars-musik on December 08, 2019, 04:32:08 AM
GOT IT!!!!!! AAARGH! I forget the ground connection at the mod switch. AND I didn't wire the switch anyways because stupid me thought (because I overlooked the ground connection) the switch wouldn't be necessary for the calibration routine....
It is calibrating atm. I'll get back later!


It works. That is soo cool!

Thanks a heap for your work and sharing, Marshall Arts!

I am happy. Been on a Xmas market and was wondering bout the issue. Support is getting harder years after the development...

Have you finalized your build? If so, can you paste some pictures?

Any chance of a board being available for this amazing project? I know it's been a while, but I am just getting into my Deep Blue clone (Aion), and this would be a sweet addition.

Quote from: Ben N on January 21, 2020, 03:02:46 AM
Any chance of a board being available for this amazing project? I know it's been a while, but I am just getting into my Deep Blue clone (Aion), and this would be a sweet addition.

Yes, they are (this time in white - whooo!) : https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=25099.msg294767#msg294767

Mattias, do you think the Taprecise could be made to control a Mitsubishi M65831AP (http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/MitsubishiElectricCorporation/mXszzwz.pdf) (the chip in the Ibanez EM5 EchoMachine)?
Ben

I'm trying to calibrate 3x PT2399 for a few days now, I get a beep, then some clicks, then the nano leds flash, but a few hours later it's still doing the same, also the tempo of the click repeats never changes, any ideas?

Also currently can't calibrate a single pt2399, I get the first beeps at different tempos with their repeats, then red light goes off and I get clicks, then endless flashing red led on the nano

edit, this started working when I left the usb cable plugged in

this is what I get when trying to calibrate 3x pt2399
sounds like I hit the jackpot!
serial output and schematic attached

I assume the delay ist working with a regular Pot...

Seems Like the digi Pot is Not changing the delay time, so I assume some wiring issued between taprecise and the delay...

yes 3x pt2399 works with a normal pot,
im wired up same as the v1.2 pdf minus the mod switch,
(also get the same behaviour if I connect the mod switch)

Disconnect the delay and measure, If the resistance in the three digipot lugs Changes during the calibration, please.

Using a 50k digipot,
Disconnected from delay,
Resistance between pins 5-6 and 7 is 30k,
I upload code,
Red led comes on, resistance drops to 1k,
Then back to 30k, green led comes on, this all happens in about 2 seconds

Tried calibrating a 50k digipot with 1 pt2399,
Then uploaded main code and connected to 3x pt2399,
The delay knob works but it's ignoring the min/max set delay,
Led is flashing maybe 3x fast,
Tap button is way off, and preset and subdiv dont respond,
Was worth a try

I am really sorry I currently cannot support you better, Leetut. It's been a long time since I built my taprecise and the issues you describe do not remind me of anything I (or others) had to deal with before (there have been quite a few successful builds). Plus, my work load increased due to corona (nothing to complain about, really!), which kept me away from both, music and electronics for weeks...

I have never tried it with a 3PT2399 delay, mine works in a double PT Delay though. Don't see, why this should not work... What comes to my mind: Have you done Arduino programming before? If yes, you could try to write a small piece of code an manually (e.g. via the serial interface) set the resistance of the digipot (just to see if it reacts correctly). Also, you could check (much easier), if the tap tempo button is recognized by the arduino, check for the analog input that receives the echo beeps during calibration etc...

no worries mate, 2x pt2399 also fails to calibrate for me,
same as before it seems to start then just ends in about 2 seconds

2 Seconds Rings a Bell... I think that If taprecise does Not receive an Echo within 2 sec, it will Stop the calibration. So, please Check If the echoes make it to the analog Pin (I will Check the Code tomorrow to See which one that is...)

the receive pin is A0 and that must be working because it calibrates a single pt2399 just fine

Quote from: Leetut on April 23, 2020, 03:38:09 PM
the receive pin is A0 and that must be working because it calibrates a single pt2399 just fine

OK... I must have missed that the Taprecise Board seems to work on a single pt2399 delay.
.

I double checked my documentation (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5vtgOg9bRJjVGlIVDZxUUxfSDA), chapter 8. I remember it was kind of tricky to get the modulation running on the 2-PT-version. For the calibration of a 2-PT-Delay, I had to modify the code a bit (downloadable version!), so it might be, that that is the reason, why it isn't running on a 3-PT-Version (what is the complete schematic of that and what design is that - looks awesome and I see a lot of knobs and a microcontroller on your breadboard as well).

While I cannot really help with the 3-PT-Delay: What 2-PT-Design were you using... maybe I can help with that one.

P.S. As you mentioned the USB-Cable in your 1-PT-Design: Are all the GND (Taprecise, Delay etc.) connected to each other? Just an idea...

I just disconnected the middle IC to go from 3x to 2xPT2399 to try the calibration,
my breadboard has a fv-1 reverb on the repeats and a mixer to blend them,
I couldn't find the deathklaw schematic to compare but it looks similar from the image in your docs

(https://i.postimg.cc/7LP72ZcK/IMG-6923.jpg)

fixed it, to get the calibration running I had to change:
sound = analogRead(receivePin);
      if (sound > 20)

to:

sound = analogRead(receivePin);
      if (sound > 5)

I am glad to hear that, congrats! Seems like the delay Sounds were Not loud enough or the noise Level was too high for taprecise to measure. Cool that it works now!

Sorry to revive the zombie. Matthias, or if anyone knows, is the choice of transistors is critical? Would any high hfe or medium BJT do? Is hfe (or any other particular characteristic) important? I have 5c546, BC550, 2N5088, 2N5089, 2N3904. MPSA18... Just not BC547C.

Quote from: Ben N on May 05, 2021, 02:01:20 AM
Sorry to revive the zombie. Matthias, or if anyone knows, is the choice of transistors is critical? Would any high hfe or medium BJT do? Is hfe (or any other particular characteristic) important? I have 5c546, BC550, 2N5088, 2N5089, 2N3904. MPSA18... Just not BC547C.

It should not be critical, 2N3904 should work, just check the pinout. Found here: https://www.quora.com/What-are-substitutes-for-BC547-transistors#:~:text=2N2222%20is%20the%20most%20common%20and%20excellent%20substitute%20for%20BC547.&text=The%20only%20minor%20changes%20are,%2C%202N4401%2C%20BC337%2C%20etc.

Let us all know, if it works.

Thanks. The board is populated, except for the Arduino, which I have to test and code.

Quote from: Marshall Arts on November 15, 2018, 04:18:19 AM
I might try it at some point as well, but am too busy currently, as I am working on my Linda Looper redesign. Seems like there is a lot of interest in Arduino-based control solutions ;-)

Hey, back after 5 years. I have learnt a bit more about coding. I can blink 4 LEDs instead of just two :)
Well, joking of course. But I did learn a bit more and been doing some cool projects as well. One of them is exactly an Effects Switcher (Looper). It is DIY, it is called iLoopino and you can find it on a Facebook group. Not my original project. I just help developing it.
But yeah, I finally came back to try the TapPrecise project. Is someone still building it?

Good to hear someone is still on it.  I miss hearing from Marshall Arts...

I am still here, guys :-)

Awesome!!  Good to know you're still around.  I still have your Clapton boost built into a Flying V and I've never been able to duplicate how it sounds for some reason.  Bugg over at PedalPCB came out with a board that as far as I can tell is identical (judging by the schematics) and for the life of me I've never been able to get it to sound the same.  I've used the same value parts but yours has a particular top end edge that I like.  The V has PAF-ish pickups and I usually use them split coil and push the level on the boost.  Just tortures the clean channel on a 6505.

Quote from: gordo on July 18, 2023, 03:12:46 PM
Awesome!!  Good to know you're still around.  I still have your Clapton boost built into a Flying V and I've never been able to duplicate how it sounds for some reason.  Bugg over at PedalPCB came out with a board that as far as I can tell is identical (judging by the schematics) and for the life of me I've never been able to get it to sound the same.  I've used the same value parts but yours has a particular top end edge that I like.  The V has PAF-ish pickups and I usually use them split coil and push the level on the boost.  Just tortures the clean channel on a 6505.

I didn't know you also had a V, or did I ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a dirt cheap Chinese kit that your Wudtone finish inspired me.  It's pretty hack but a great little guitar.  Clone of a V custom.