I know the Pharaoh was based off the GGG board so how hard would it be to make one out of the Mudbunny?
If this is a taboo question I'll remove it!
Not hard at all. In fact, the pharoah being made on the GGG board should make it very easy.
All we need is someone with a pharoah to tell us the values of the parts used. Until then it's guess work. Alternatively, we can also use a picture of a pharoah's guts to get the values unless they are hidden/gooped/sanded.
Jacob
OOh looks like something I'm interested in! Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
You would probably have better luck to ask over at FSB. When you say GGG board are you referring to the muff project other there?
I've seen a pic o the guts of a Pharaoh. It was #49 I think. It featured a General Guitar Gadgets PCB, and it would be a Muff of course. Flavour of the month over at FSB, and now a product available at PGS.
Jacob
Here's a good picture for reading resistor values:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BBJS1KtWu7g/TSUuTCNw90I/AAAAAAAAAOU/nVouEQAQiP4/s1600/0101111710.jpg
There is a schematic pcb and vero layouts at FSB http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14040&p=169693&hilit=+black+arts+pharaoh#p169693 (http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14040&p=169693&hilit=+black+arts+pharaoh#p169693)
They are very similar (I like pharaoh has more tone control). I started to compare the Mudbunny and Pharaoh to see if I could build one on the same board but got sidetracked by other projects.
Yeah I saw that after doing additional research after posting those pics. While a schematic is provided, some of the values I've compared with the original Modified-GGG PCB version are different. I'm going to see if I can work up a Mudbunny list for the OP when I get some free time.
Quote from: snz728 on January 24, 2012, 03:53:41 PM
There is a schematic pcb and vero layouts at FSB http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14040&p=169693&hilit=+black+arts+pharaoh#p169693 (http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14040&p=169693&hilit=+black+arts+pharaoh#p169693)
They are very similar (I like pharaoh has more tone control). I started to compare the Mudbunny and Pharaoh to see if I could build one on the same board but got sidetracked by other projects.
Thanks for the heads up- I'm a fan of modified muffs. I might kill some of the switching, but I like the knob flexibility.
I made an Excel sheet based on the info I found on FSB. The values between the brackets are the standard Mudbunny values for power supply filtering. They might differ from the actual Pharaoh, but this won't affect the sound.
Thanks man! Sorry I never got around to this, can't wait to try it on a Mudbunny!
Pardon if a dumb question, but can you explain the purpose of the low/assym mods listed on the BOM? Is there any given advantage to adding assymetrical clipping?
Well, since this is a topic about building a Pharaoh Fuzz on a Mudbunny board, I suggest you look at YouTube demos to hear the actual differences. PGS usually has good demo's: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fp5N4-YVhoI But there are others.
The Hi/Lo switch switches between high gain input and low gain input. The former obviously has more distortion. The Ge/Si switches between symmetrical silicon diodes and assymetrical germanium diodes. The exact types of diodes used in the Pharaoh are not known to me, but you can obviously use whichever you like. It is probably explained better at other websites though. Just use Google!
Are C1 and C13 10uF film caps in the stock unit?
No, they are tantalum caps in the original, but elco's work fine. I don't even think there are film caps in such high values.
I ran a search on Newark out of curiosity... and they do exist... but they didn't look small :o
Last question... if using tantalums or electrolytics, which way should they be oriented?
Thanks for your help... can't wait to hear this thing.
I tried this the other day. Sounds pretty dead on. Mine seems to have a little less bass than the video but I did sub some of the coupling capacitor values. The high and bass knobs work in a very strange way and you should definitely use 25K for the high. I used 50 and the range was pretty limited.
Quote from: eldanko on March 13, 2012, 07:10:26 AM
Last question... if using tantalums or electrolytics, which way should they be oriented?
The "+" should go to the place with the highest voltage. Such a thing is not always obvious from a schematic, but in this case both plusses should point toward the middle, if you know what I mean. With the minus pointing toward the input and output, respectively.
Excellent - I had suspected as much but I wanted to be sure. Thanks again for all the help... I'll get a build report up soon! ;D
This is such a must for me. I keep seeing more and more of the bands I'm into using one on their board. He really took over the doom/sludge scene!
The guy who makes these also posts on the stonerrocklives forum.
Quote from: Diamond on March 23, 2012, 08:45:56 AM
The guy who makes these also posts on the stonerrocklives forum.
Makes a lot of sense. Didn't know that forum was still alive.
I saw one of Matt Pike's board about a week ago...what more incentive do I need after watching High On Fire rip my face apart.
You guys are going to love my graphic for this one... hope to get it wired up tonight... ;D
Quote from: eldanko on March 23, 2012, 08:57:27 AM
You guys are going to love my graphic for this one... hope to get it wired up tonight... ;D
Any update? I'm very interested in the Pharaoh. Also, for those who have tried both, how important is the mids control? I noticed the new Mudbunny board doesn't have a mids control.
I really like a mids pot for a Big Muff. Makes it a lot more versatile and keeps you from disappearing in the band mix. I made a simple drawing about how to hook up the mids control.
First, change C10 to 22nF. This is essential!
Second, change R18 to a resistor and pot in series like in the attachment. I like a 2k7 resistor and 10k pot to go from standard mid cut to flat mids, but you could use a lower value resistor if you want more mid cut and a 25k LOG pot if you want more available midboost.
Quote from: Diamond on March 29, 2012, 11:26:51 AM
I really like a mids pot for a Big Muff. Makes it a lot more versatile and keeps you from disappearing in the band mix. I made a simple drawing about how to hook up the mids control.
First, change C10 to 22nF. This is essential!
Second, change R18 to a resistor and pot in series like in the attachment. I like a 2k7 resistor and 10k pot to go from standard mid cut to flat mids, but you could use a lower value resistor if you want more mid cut and a 25k LOG pot if you want more available midboost.
Thanks Diamond! I'll definitely be adding a mids control, I didn't realize it'd be quite so easy.
Yes it is quite easy and very effective! If you want to see exactly what the mids control does and maybe even tweak it to your liking, you can download this tone stack calculator from Duncan Amp Tools. It has a Big Muff model: http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/
Also, for future reference, DON'T use the mids-mod on the Pharaoh! It already has a tweaked tone stack. Only use the mids pot on one of the standard Mudbunny models (Triangle, Ram's Head, Russian, etc). This might be obvious to most, but since this is a Pharoah topic I thought I might mention this.
Quote from: Diamond on March 02, 2012, 04:11:26 AM
I made an Excel sheet based on the info I found on FSB. The values between the brackets are the standard Mudbunny values for power supply filtering. They might differ from the actual Pharaoh, but this won't affect the sound.
Sorry for the dredge, but the BigMuffPage 'Pharoah' schematic differs -- C4, C6, C7, C9, and C12 are 47nF, not 470nF. Should the FSB values be considered canonical over the BigMuffPage ones?
I built the fsb version, and was quite happy with it. Very big, dark, and huge sounding fuzz.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
Sorry if I missed this but how is the switching set up from the board to make the pharaoh?
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=12268.0 (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=12268.0)
That's how I did mine. A second diode pair was added later (germanium).
The Lo/Hi switch is switching the flying resistor in parallel with the on-board one, and disconnecting it when off.
Thanks much, when you added the additional diodes which post and pad did you solder them to?
This is how I did mine on my etched Mudbunny board.
(http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/Mudbunny_diodes.png)
thanks much
Hello! I am very sorry to necrobump this thread but I found this one to be the most appropriate.
I am a newbie to this scene and will be attempting this build very soon. The only open question (I think) that I have is outside of pcb population: the wiring to/from pots/switches/power/jacks. Does anyone have any good pictures/drawings of how they've run their wiring? For example, I'm quite confused as to how the "high" pot should be set up, and where it "leaves" to. I'm afraid that I'm quite rubbish at reading schematics!
I'd like to thank you in advance for your help.
James
Hi James! Welcome. You should start by grabbing the "Madbean Standard Wiring Diagram". You can google it or find it on madbean's project page. This will help a lot.
I woke up this morning and said, "Ohhhhhh!" I feel silly for messing that up. I guess I wasn't think about what a pot really is... A variable resistor!
Thanks! I appreciate your patience with a noob like me!
I don't have a 250K for the tone pot but I do have a 100K and a 500K...any suggestions to which would be best?