I have two zombii boards that I would love to turn into fatfuzz factory pedals. If I understand correctly The fat fuzz factory is the same as the original but has an additional three way switch from hat effects tone. Is anyone familiar with this? I really like putting these kits together but I don't really understand the inner workings very well FYI. Thanks in advance. !
Just google "fat fuzz factory schematic". Looks exactly the same as the zombii, you'd just add the switch and an extra cap. You can just jumper off the board to add that in. Assuming you understand schematics ok, otherwise I could probly make a diagram.
A diagram would sure be appreciated.
I built a sort of Fat Fuzz Factory, and I try to explain how it should work.
This is the stock schematic and the "Fat" capacitor is C2, the standard is a 0.1uF:
(http://t-giken.up.seesaa.net/image/FUZZ20FUCTORY.JPG)
I added a switch using this way:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UTu9z3raSz0/TdytG0slKVI/AAAAAAAAAmM/udp2p9Uvx8o/s1600/Brian%2BMay%2BTreble%2BBooster.gif)
It's a different pedal, but you can see how connect the switch to the cap on the board. The switch is a On/Off/On toggle switch, in central posistion the only working capacitor is that on the board. In the other side position the switch add to the board one of the capacitor on the switch. I used a 470nF for the position 2 and a 3.3uF for the position 3. You can try different values.
I built it on veroboard.
You can see this attach.
Beat me to it :) The schematic I saw had a switchable cap in parallel to C2, but the picture of the fat fuzz seemed to have three settings? Which would be something like the treble booster diagram you posted. Does anyone have a proper schematic for the fat fuzz?? The dpdt switch with a cap on each end should definitely do what your looking for
Is the schematic in the pdf I attached that you seen? That schematic could be deceptive indeed, but if you read the list of the components the switch is a On/Off/On, and in central position the 470nF and the 3.3uF are both disconnected from the signal. In this schematic the switch is a SPDT because the all the caps are on the board. But if you have a verified board of a standard Fuzz Factory you can use the switch and the two other cap how in the treble booster layout.
If you have some socket pins you can solder those on the switch and try some values beafore to solder the caps directly.
Quote from: JackSkellington on November 30, 2016, 10:03:05 AM
Is the schematic in the pdf I attached that you seen? That schematic could be deceptive indeed, but if you read the list of the components the switch is a On/Off/On, and in central position the 470nF and the 3.3uF are both disconnected from the signal. In this schematic the switch is a SPDT because the all the caps are on the board. But if you have a verified board of a standard Fuzz Factory you can use the switch and the two other cap how in the treble booster layout.
If you have some socket pins you can solder those on the switch and try some values beafore to solder the caps directly.
This. And if you end up with a polarized cap, point the positive end toward the collector of Q1 and the negative toward the base of Q2.
Here's my fat fuzz built on an industrial fuzz board from guitar PCB. White wire is negative and red is positive for C2.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8129/30380895906_d384139b11_c.jpg)
About the polarized of the cap, if you follow the schematic of the pdf I attached early you should try it before soldering, because if I am not wrong it is inverted.
A question: in the image above, the three caps are all on the switch?
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8208.0
Quote from: JackSkellington on November 30, 2016, 03:09:27 PM
About the polarized of the cap, if you follow the schematic of the pdf I attached early you should try it before soldering, because if I am not wrong it is inverted.
A question: in the image above, the three caps are all on the switch?
Yes