In the build docs for the aion Blueshift (Dimension-C clone), Kevin provides the following advice, almost as a warning:
Quote4. YOU'VE GOT TO BUILD IT AS IT WAS INTENDED: I approached the project as though I was designing a completed product for market. Everything has been designed to be built using methods you'd see in a high-end pedal (for instance, PCB-mounted switches, a standoff for mounting stability, and components with specific sizes and characteristics).... We all build pedals in our own style, but with this one, if you try to "freestyle" by doing your own enclosure layout or using parts other than the ones specified, you might back yourself into a corner. Please do things my way—you'll end up with a very professional and durable end product and you might even learn a few things in the process!
The fact that I've decided to largely ignore this advice should not be viewed as any form of disrespect for Kevin, his design, or any of you who have already posted builds of this circuit. :)
Instead, think of this as evidence that I really like 1590B enclosures and I'm possibly insane. :P
This build isn't complete yet, but now that I'm 90% sure that it's going to work, I figured it would be a good time to show some of my progress.
I'll start with a bit of an angled shot of the assembled boards. (http://i.imgur.com/RfuwrEbl.jpg)
The green stuff is Theraputty (basically Silly Putty that you can buy in bulk at a reasonable price), which I've simply used to pose things for the camera.
A few noteworthy details:
1) the switches will be mounted essentially flush with the board and the enclosure face, although they won't be soldered on place until mounted to the enclosure, of course.
2) The standoff I'm using is much shorter than spec'd.
3) The jack I've shown (yes, there will still be 3 of them) is a Lumberg jack instead of an enclosed Switchcraft jack.
A bit about that spacer...
One thing I actually don't like about the stock design is that screw head in the middle of the enclosure face. While it makes complete sense to have a spacer there for mechanical support, I've decided that I'm going to attach the screw head to the inside of the enclosure so it will be hidden from view. I plan to use JB Weld for this. The spacer I've come up with is made from pieces from my junk hardware collection. I've filed down the threads and heads (I didn't mean for that to rhyme ;D) of the bolts to make the spacer approx. 0.4 inches high and to clear the parts beneath. A rather blurry shot of these pieces:
(http://i.imgur.com/TXDj5yxm.jpg)
I already mentioned the Lumberg jacks. I'm also going to use a lower profile stomp from Smallbear so it will more easily fit beneath the larger board.
(http://i.imgur.com/ngctQbal.jpg)
From my measurements, the completed assembly will come up very close to being flush to the top of the enclosure's side walls, so I've modified the lid by grinding out the lap joint boss most of the way around.
Probably a bit of overkill, but it will make the rest easier.Edit: grinding this out allows to board assembly to come up slightly higher than the side walls, which should allow for an inside nut on each switch.
(http://i.imgur.com/mqV16uWm.jpg)
Here's a side view of the assembly mock-up from earlier.
(http://i.imgur.com/OcE1ZDAl.jpg)
You're crazy, man! Can't wait to see it crammed in there.
When I was reading through the build doc I was also thinking about ignoring his advice if/when I build one, however I was thinking of building it in a bigger enclosure. You sir are crazy! 8)
Wow, did not expect that. Crazy :)
This should be good! It'll go together like a burr puzzle when you're done!
Quote from: Stomptown on September 11, 2017, 10:29:48 PM
When I was reading through the build doc I was also thinking about ignoring his advice if/when I build one, however I was thinking of building it in a bigger enclosure. You sir are crazy! 8)
If you want something smaller than the 125B, but less crazy than this, a 1590BS would comfortably hold everything, probably without modification. A 1590B2 could work too, but they are harder to procure.
One issue I will still have to work out is the excess bushings on all the switches that will stick out quite a bit (I didnt feel like spending nearly $10 per toggle for shorter bushings). Tall dress nuts do exist with 1/4-40 UNS threading, so I'll probably end up with some of these someday.
(http://media.rs-online.com/t_large/F7874808-01.jpg)
Thanks for all the gut shots!! You're crazy, I love it. Can't wait to see the finished build. Bravo!
Total DIY'er mentality "I know how you DIYers are, but follow my directions exact or you'll have prob-" "PFFFFFFFF! I can totally make this work!!" :P
[/quote]
One issue I will still have to work out is the excess bushings on all the switches that will stick out quite a bit (I didnt feel like spending nearly $10 per toggle for shorter bushings). Tall dress nuts do exist with 1/4-40 UNS threading, so I'll probably end up with some of these someday.
(http://media.rs-online.com/t_large/F7874808-01.jpg)
[/quote]
You have way to much patience and analytical skills? You and Pickdropper must be in the same group as far as measuring geniuses. Here's a link for some dress nuts at Arrow. I bought some for mine just to "dress it up" but these are fairly big, like huge. They were only .44 a piece and free shipping.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/702501201/ck
After your last vero pedal that you managed to get in a 1590 this should be a piece of cake for you.
Thanks for that link! Do you have a pic of those on a finished build?
No but I can put them on something and take a picture tomorrow for you.
Quote from: BrianS on September 12, 2017, 02:18:31 PM
You have way to much patience and analytical skills? You and Pickdropper must be in the same group as far as measuring geniuses.
....
After your last vero pedal that you managed to get in a 1590 this should be a piece of cake for you.
I owe a lot of credit to this tool:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51r2J68iW3L._SY400_.jpg)
At $40, it's paid for itself over and over again.
And, the more I build with 1590B enclosures, the larger they seem. I'm wonder if the 1590A builders feel the same about those.
Here's the dress nut on a switch that is against the inside of the box (no nut, washer, etc....).(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/8d02e828d1eff7fc48b5cc59760c564d.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for posting that. Just to check, what's the length of the bushing on that switch?
I believe my switches have a 9mm bushing. Allowing 2mm for the enclosure thickness, I will have 7mm sticking up. The dress nut you have is 8.25mm high, which is looking like a good option at the moment.
The shaft length is 8.89mm or a 1/4". Like I said the body is directly on the bottom of the enclosure.
Quote from: BrianS on September 13, 2017, 02:33:53 PM
Like I said the body is directly on the bottom of the enclosure.
I really appreciate that detail, as it will be the same in my build. Thank you. :)
Incidentally, my switches appear to be 8.89mm as well. Maybe I read the wrong spec sheet (I didnt measure before).
Quote from: BrianS link=topic=26365.msg255650#msg255650(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/8d02e828d1eff7fc48b5cc59760c564d.jpg)
By the way, what
is this enclosure for. Whatever it is, it looks awe-inspiring. 8)
Quote from: EBK on September 11, 2017, 08:22:13 PM
In the build docs for the aion Blueshift (Dimension-C clone), Kevin provides the following advice, almost as a warning:
Quote4. YOU'VE GOT TO BUILD IT AS IT WAS INTENDED: I approached the project as though I was designing a completed product for market. Everything has been designed to be built using methods you'd see in a high-end pedal (for instance, PCB-mounted switches, a standoff for mounting stability, and components with specific sizes and characteristics).... We all build pedals in our own style, but with this one, if you try to "freestyle" by doing your own enclosure layout or using parts other than the ones specified, you might back yourself into a corner. Please do things my way—you'll end up with a very professional and durable end product and you might even learn a few things in the process!
The fact that I've decided to largely ignore this advice should not be viewed as any form of disrespect for Kevin, his design, or any of you who have already posted builds of this circuit. :)
Instead, think of this as evidence that I really like 1590B enclosures and I'm possibly insane. :P
That`s ok. He told me not to build the Cerulean with a 4 pole switch to change it from a Bluesbreaker to a Morning Glory (In the same enclosure as a cirrus with a rotary switch for all the different signal path options and a toggle for different filter slopes) and I ignored him. I don`t think he`s offended. I`m sure he understands some of us are just crazy :o
Quote from: EBK on September 13, 2017, 03:43:53 PM
Quote from: BrianS link=topic=26365.msg255650#msg255650(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170913/8d02e828d1eff7fc48b5cc59760c564d.jpg)
By the way, what is this enclosure for. Whatever it is, it looks awe-inspiring. 8)
Its a Sagan delay with a Grind Custom PLFO added. Still can't get it going but haven't had a lot of time to troubleshoot it. Its just been a real bad 30 days for building.
Be careful with those switches. When I've tried in the past to use them without the internal nut they literally fell apart. The shaft and toggle broke of the base.
Quote from: Matmosphere on September 13, 2017, 09:08:56 PM
Be careful with those switches. When I've tried in the past to use them without the internal nut they literally fell apart. The shaft and toggle broke of the base.
Good to know. Because of the way I modified the lid, I can
probably fit an inside nut on the switches to hopefully prevent such a disaster. I'll have to add some height to my standoff, of course, but I could simply add the same kind of nut to it.
With this extra wiggle room added, I'll recheck to see if the Switchcraft jacks could fit.
With a lower nut now on all the toggle switches, my new custom standoff height is 0.4600" (11.684mm).
How does that affect things?
The completed assembly now sticks up ever so slightly above the enclosure side walls.
(http://i.imgur.com/VGHGqmc.jpg)
Remember, this isn't a problem because of my lid modifications. But, the good news for anyone considering something similar is that the 1590B2 is 7mm deeper than this, with the lap joint boss only sinking 2mm into the enclosure, meaning you could use one of those boxes without modifying the lid at all. You would even have room for a slightly longer standoff, which would help sink those toggles down more (I'll have to do some more calculating to figure out how far they would stick up (if at all)). A 1590BS (at 11mm deeper than a 1599B), would, of course, be even easier than a 1590B2.
And, now the enclosed Switchcraft jacks fit (a VERY close fit -- I had to reflow some solder to seat some caps closer to the board under them).
(http://i.imgur.com/Ewz6wBR.jpg)
I actually prefer using these here, as it will make the task of marking out the drill holes a breeze. ;D And, if I needed to shield them, I could simply wrap them in copper tape. In larger builds, I'll stick with open frame Switchcraft 11 though.
I'll be drilling soon, but I'll probably post another pic first, showing how all the jacks fit along with the stomp switch (they do fit, with room to spare).
Man, you should change your nickname to Houdini...
something about God, and his mother
Wow, incredible build. Love the progress pics.
Hey bro I keep my fingers crossed 8) 8) 8)
Thanks for the encouragement, everyone!
I've accidentally made this a bit harder since my last update, but I'm still not worried (hovering around 95% confidence ;)). As a shortcut, I used Kevin's drill template for the toggles and LED, adjusting only the width. The consequence is that I've sacrificed a significant amount of wiggle room by shifting the board lower than I was planning.
(http://i.imgur.com/4eyeXFy.jpg)
However, upon test mounting the toggles, I think this will look better than if I had pushed it up as close as possible to the top. This picture is pretty blurry....
(http://i.imgur.com/p2BG0sZm.jpg)
I'll remeasure things tonight, hopefully, and start drilling for the jacks and stomp switch.
Switchcraft jacks are out, and the Lumberg jacks are back in. I really didn't like the combination of the enclosed "box" of the Switchcraft jacks with the draft angle of the enclosure sides. I would've had to file a bunch of plastic off to make them fit well.
Here's a rough-in of the Lumberg jacks. I still need to figure out the best orientation and walk them around a bit by gently widening the drill holes. The size of the washer dictates how freely you can move a jack after drilling. ;)
(http://i.imgur.com/nlVYc3m.jpg)
The stomp switch is just hanging out there to show that it will fit. And, yes, I am as shocked as you are to see that one completely unsoldered pin staring at us! I left it there for the pic as a reminder of how easy it is to make a simple careless mistake. ;D
You'll probably be ok, but keep in mind the tip of the input jack is going to bend back towards the stompswitch when you insert a cable. For that reason, you may want to mount the stomp switch as close to the bottom as possible. Looks great btw!
Quote from: Stomptown on September 17, 2017, 08:13:04 PM
You'll probably be ok, but keep in mind the tip of the input jack is going to bend back towards the stompswitch when you insert a cable. For that reason, you may want to mount the stomp switch as close to the bottom as possible. Looks great btw!
Thanks! I see what you mean. These jacks indeed have quite a sideways reach as the plug is being inserted. I've tamed that a tiny bit with some pliers, and I've reached a workable placement.
(http://i.imgur.com/DKr9RkYl.jpg)
Here it is from the outside.
(http://i.imgur.com/I9N94gdl.jpg)
Almost there!
I need a smaller washer on that stomp switch. This one slightly overhangs.
Just remove the white washer of death. Problem solved! Haha I think blms has metal stomp washers that might be a bit smaller
Wow!
Awesome!
Yesterday morning, before I had my coffee, I actually found myself wondering what sort of knobs to put on this (I have never made a pedal that didn't need any). ::)
I kinda think these dress nuts visually stand in for the missing knobs. Thanks again, Brian, for your input on these.
(http://i.imgur.com/5AIemKyl.jpg)
Everything's in place but the wires. For graphics, my plan is to laser etch through the powder coat and possibly backfill with white. I'll need to get my laser working first, though.
I'm a bit torn on whether to go with the traditional style labeling to stick with the professional-line theme, or go with a Twilight Zone theme, taking my inspiration from the dark color of the enclosure and the word "dimension", which made me think of this narration from the TV show:
QuoteYou unlock this door with the key of imagination. Beyond it is another dimension—a dimension of sound, a dimension of sight, a dimension of mind. You're moving into a land of both shadow and substance, of things and ideas. You've just crossed over into the Twilight Zone.
If I go with this theme, the toggles will be labeled "sound", "sight", and "mind". ;D
Any thoughts? Opinions?
Please definitely a Twilight Zone theme!!
It already looks amazing. The "dress nuts" are great. I don't really like the look of the 3 toggle switches, I've been thinking about what I would do if I were to build one. Your solution is fantastic!
Quote from: Boba7 on September 22, 2017, 07:23:55 AM
Please definitely a Twilight Zone theme!!
It already looks amazing. The "dress nuts" are great. I don't really like the look of the 3 toggle switches, I've been thinking about what I would do if I were to build one. Your solution is fantastic!
You could do slide switches They shouldn't be that hard to find. Drilling would be difficult though you would have to get a dremel and cut the rectangles out of the enclosure.
Quote from: EBK on September 22, 2017, 05:09:53 AM
Yesterday morning, before I had my coffee, I actually found myself wondering what sort of knobs to put on this (I have never made a pedal that didn't need any). ::)
I kinda think these dress nuts visually stand in for the missing knobs. Thanks again, Brian, for your input on these.
(http://i.imgur.com/5AIemKyl.jpg)
.
You're very welcome. I bought some of the next size down on my last order and I don't believe they would have given you what you were looking for. They are a third of the size of the ones you got. I think they finish it nicely. Great job.
Still in disbelief that you got all that crammed in there 😂.
Damn, this is awesome. 8) :o
Quote from: flanagan0718 on September 22, 2017, 07:36:33 AM
Quote from: Boba7 on September 22, 2017, 07:23:55 AM
Please definitely a Twilight Zone theme!!
It already looks amazing. The "dress nuts" are great. I don't really like the look of the 3 toggle switches, I've been thinking about what I would do if I were to build one. Your solution is fantastic!
You could do slide switches They shouldn't be that hard to find. Drilling would be difficult though you would have to get a dremel and cut the rectangles out of the enclosure.
If you go the rectangle route you could probably do rocker switches, those are bomb. You can buy them from mouser with basically the same dimensions as the standard toggle switches.
Quote from: EBK on September 22, 2017, 05:09:53 AM
Yesterday morning, before I had my coffee, I actually found myself wondering what sort of knobs to put on this (I have never made a pedal that didn't need any). ::)
Try building a PS-1A. There are no knobs OR switches, just three stomps.
Quote from: alanp on September 22, 2017, 02:13:24 PM
Quote from: EBK on September 22, 2017, 05:09:53 AM
Yesterday morning, before I had my coffee, I actually found myself wondering what sort of knobs to put on this (I have never made a pedal that didn't need any). ::)
Try building a PS-1A. There are no knobs OR switches, just three stomps.
Maestro pedals are always interesting, and sometimes odd. Have you built/owned one of those?
http://alanp.info/images/ps1a%20box.JPG (http://alanp.info/images/ps1a%20box.JPG)
http://alanp.info/images/ps1a%20guts.JPG (http://alanp.info/images/ps1a%20guts.JPG)
Yep.
Are those 6 matched FETs? I commend you madness sir, and shall now back away slowly in terror.
One more thing I need to show, other than a bunch of wires to eventually prove I've finished this.
(http://i.imgur.com/L8uvsxMl.jpg)
My custom sized standoff has been secured in place with JB Weld. Excellent stuff. I really didn't want a screw head on the face of this pedal, so I'm glad this worked out.
I finished wiring everything up today, and it works! I will calibrate it later tonight.
But, I wanted to share one additional observation regarding enclosure size. A 125B enclosure is slightly wider than a 1590B, and that extra width would definitely make wiring pads I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P easier. There isn't very much space to run wires between the boards, and I had no space available on top of the larger board, so the most usable wiring space was along the right hand side of the larger board, between its components and the enclosure sidewall. It's not a lot of room, so if anyone else is thinking about a 1590B build, I'd recommend some closely spaced ribbon cable for that.
I did, once again, find a way to make this harder for myself by enforcing one of my personal design rules: everything that goes to ground must go directly to the DC jack ground, and its subrule: the enclosure must be grounded at only one point. This meant I had 5 separate ground wires to run the gauntlet between the boards up to the power jack. Two of the three I/O jacks are isolated from the enclosure with fiber shoulder washers. Anyway, it's just personal craziness that I do in all my builds rather than something that is absolutely necessary, but I thought it worth mentioning.
In conclusion (for now), although successful, I'd consider a 1590B2 the smallest practical enclosure for future builds of this circuit (the lid could be used without grinding any portions away), but only if you don't mind difficult wiring. Edit: if you use a 1590B2, but still keep the standoff short, you'll have plenty of room to run the wires over top of the larger board.
This will be my only 1590B build of this, if I end up making more than one. The recommended 125B is certainly a commercially practical enclosure for this pedal due to its jack clearance and available wiring space. If I build another, it will be in a 1590B2.
The pedal isn't done yet due to lack of graphics, so you'll see it again sometime in the coming year. ;)
Slight update: I've calibrated the circuit with my pocket scope, and I'm extremely happy with this pedal. Every setting is usable, and it presents a really "refined" chorus feel (I don't know how else to explain it).
if you feel the chorus is too loud, replace R9 with a 100k trimmer and dial it down
but of course you would have to take it apart a bit to do that ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: LaceSensor on October 03, 2017, 04:06:08 PM
if you feel the chorus is too loud, replace R9 with a 100k trimmer and dial it down
but of course you would have to take it apart a bit to do that ;D ;D ;D ;D
Mine seemed ok to me (stock bypass). Just ever-so-slightly louder (not even something I'd call louder, per se), realistically like a second guitar just joined in.
Wow, I really suck at finishing things!
Was originally going to laser etch this, but decided to try a decal instead. Some roughness on the edges, but not too bad.
(http://i.imgur.com/Dgm7EXCl.jpg)
Left some water on it in my hurry to take a picture. ::)
I still have a chance to mess this up.
Edit: A dry pic:
(http://i.imgur.com/fOiDhRcl.jpg)
Love this thread
Quote from: Adam_MD on June 27, 2019, 12:28:28 PM
Love this thread
Glad you like it. :)
Update: So I cut the holes, and it did not go perfectly, but I have a nice solution. The LED hole got crappy white edges like the stomp switch in this pic, but I have some modular furniture shelf pin sleeve grommets (basically eyelets) left over from my Theremin Fuzz build.
(http://i.imgur.com/mnkVg7Gl.jpg)
Very cool. How you get the white letters? What kind of decal is that?
Quote from: Aentons on June 28, 2019, 06:14:48 PM
Very cool. How you get the white letters? What kind of decal is that?
It's a white decal, inverse printed, i.e., I matched the cobalt blue through trial and error. Color laser printer.
This is the specific product:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WTL24B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Y0RfDbZCX01Q3
I like the detailing with the output jacks' writing slowly dividing
Quote from: alanp on June 28, 2019, 10:36:57 PM
I like the detailing with the output jacks' writing slowly dividing
I had to label which jack was stereo somehow. ;)
Glad you like it.
MAJOR setback with this project:
(https://i.imgur.com/UwJ8iH3l.jpg)
No idea how this happened. The finish seemed so stable for so many weeks up until now. :'(
That looks like ice crystals, so cool :)
It does look pretty cool like that... Is that in the clear coat, or did it fall into your vat of meth? :)
That's very strange. I've had that happen but not weeks down the road.
Quote from: alanp on August 19, 2019, 06:01:16 AM
That looks like ice crystals, so cool :)
I wonder if I can remove this with an ice scraper. (I might actually try something like that to salvage this.)
Quote from: EBK on August 19, 2019, 05:45:07 AM
MAJOR setback with this project:
(https://i.imgur.com/UwJ8iH3l.jpg)
No idea how this happened. The finish seemed so stable for so many weeks up until now. :'(
Is that a painted enclosure or is it powder coated?
If it is painted, did you use an enamel based paint and then try to clear it with lacquer? That would explain those results.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 19, 2019, 07:47:58 AM
Is that a painted enclosure or is it powder coated?
If it is painted, did you use an enamel based paint and then try to clear it with lacquer? That would explain those results.
Enclosure is Hammond-brand, powder coated. Clear coat is Krylon Crystal Clear.
Update:
I've basically hit the rewind button:
(https://i.imgur.com/V6ujWQil.jpg)
Diagnosis: clear coat didn't adhere to too-smooth surface. Scraped it all off with fingernails and a razor blade. Decal lost in the process.
Adding this here for posterity (didn't want to leave a WIP thread incomplete).
The pedal is done. Success!
I redid the decal, and the edges and corners were MUCH cleaner this time.
(https://i.imgur.com/D9YOIiGl.jpg)
WOW! Another pristine build that shines like a mirror- I'm imagining your pedalboard resting on the finest of Persian rugs, in it's own room of your mansion, only to be operated by a special pair of white silk shoes!
Quote from: dawson on January 13, 2020, 01:32:33 PM
WOW! Another pristine build that shines like a mirror-
Thanks! I wasn't quite expecting that level of praise. I'm most proud of simply completing one of my many long running open projects. I was hoping to complete my Aquaboy Deluxe build, but that needs some serious debugging, so I put it down and picked this one back up instead.
Quote
I'm imagining your pedalboard resting on the finest of Persian rugs, in it's own room of your mansion, only to be operated by a special pair of white silk shoes!
You're pretty close, except it is a tiled floor in the basement of my row house, and my pedals are typically operated with ordinary white socks. ;D
I'm not sure if I mentioned this elsewhere, but, thanks to a fruitful Google search, I managed to match the font for the switch and jack labels to the font used in the TV show. Bernhard Modern.
https://fontsinuse.com/uses/11375/the-twilight-zone-episode-credits-and-title-c
I just realized I have one more thing to add to this thread:
(https://i.imgur.com/x8luEnol.jpg)
I would have had to transpose it or retune my guitar to play it in my demo as I'm one fret short (not the lamest excuse for missing the opportunity, but it is probably close ::)).
Source: https://www.guitarplayer.com/technique/play-it-right-the-theme-from-the-twilight-zone