OK so I decided I'm going to blog this build as I go.
I only made it to step three before I got stumped. Help me identify this part, I have it my resister box and it's labeled four. 7 AM it reads four. 7 AM on the multimeter I just need to know if it's a different wattage or is it just a different brand than I'm used to her usually use Xicon. I don't want to get done with this and find out that I messed it up in the very beginning(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181024/9ca7dcefb1b601b5680a1a9c6df903a1.jpg)
Any Ideas?
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
4.7M 5% carbon film resistor.
Carbon resistors tend to have a tan body color and use a 4-band resistance marking, compared to the light blue and 5-band of metal film R's, and usually have 5% tolerance compared to the 1% tolerance of metal film (usually doesn't matter, but you can always just meter them to make sure the value is "on target")
Thx Somnif,
HHMM showed 4.84M
I'm bollicks at reading schematics, but I'm trying to see what part of the circuit this in.
Any reason not to use the carbon fil resistor besides looks?
It looks to be on the front end of the input.
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
Probably. As long as you're in the right ballpark, it's amazing what you can get away with in this hobby on the technical side.
Thx Alanp,
I am most uncomfortable with deviation in this setting. However, I trust you guys. Now I'm just got to decide if I want to use it from an aesthetic point of view.
I'll soldier on with the build and let my subconscious chew on it for awhile.
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
Colour it in with blue pen, that makes it higher precision. ;)
Ha!
I've got paint pens!
Will you taunt me a second time?
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/3f3a1d78a4d67d4fb2e430f8e3199c06.jpg)
Partially populated w/resistors
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/e3b45a64069cf35ac097c89bfe2b69da.jpg)
Covered w/tape to protect resistors from blu tack.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/7084877c2c3afbad5f771e0e0a869268.jpg)
Covered w/blue tack. Press down firmly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/00c34b6f66006da487bc31e06f032273.jpg)
As you can see, it's pretty straight.
Typo'd from my iphone
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/fddf0204847f772810fc3bfbb80bb05d.jpg)
Solder then snip as you go.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/d80088bf35508676a35553c8a0facda9.jpg)
A little clean up w/flux remover.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/62c1b4c03280332a20febe9fc26cc2d2.jpg)
That's where I'm at so far.
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181025/963f9977b85726a6f0a2ee3b2570d3a0.jpg)
All right everyone I'm at a standstill until I can trade for some parts.
-M
Typo'd from my iphone
Sorry another question.
For number of the caps it says film in the description but on the Mouser BOM it shows an MLCC.
It shouldn't matter if I use box film in place of the MLCC, correct?
Also, could I use LM741cn in place of LM741P?
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
So long as they meet the voltage rating you're good to go as far as caps are concerned. Your 741 will work fine too. If memory serves the CN is rated to +/-18V while some of the other variants are rated a bit higher, but for this circuit, so long as your power supply functions correctly, you're fine.
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it. I though so, I just like to check with someone who knows a lot more than I do.
-M
Update on L5 project.
Just missing is one resistor, one cap and a couple of ICs. I was able to trade for the enclosure. Missing pots are on their way.
,The question is Ken they get here before I have to pack up the final bids for the move.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181030/1cb18e4e2e0ed07b6804648db2234ef7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181030/f72c81eb012b855e10e885277dca4ba4.jpg)
-Mike
Typo'd from my iphone
Thanks, I answered my own question w/testing.
OK, I've got the rest the parts and I am progressing with the build.
I was wondering if someone would mind verifying what I'm doing. I have two pots that I need to change from A5K to A2.5K. I ended up using a 5.6k resistor (this came from actual, direct measurement) bridging the outer lugs.
I now get a value of 2.475K.
Does this sound correct?
Answered my own question empirically. This doesn't activate the wiper.
Or do I need to place a different value resistor in-between legs 1 and 2 & 2 and 3?
This looks to be correct, at least to direct measurement.
-Mike
Quote from: Ekimneets on November 02, 2018, 07:26:35 PM
Or do I need to place a different value resistor in-between legs 1 and 2 & 2 and 3?
This looks to be correct, at least to direct measurement.
Yes, this. Looks like you figured it out by yourself though. :)
I'm finally learning to take baby steps mjg. It also helps that the search function is working.
-Mike
Well, I finished the L5 build. Alas, I'm heartbroken, it's not working right. It's fine in bypass, but when you switch to channels 1/2 all LEDs are lit and there is no sound.
Unfortunately, I don't have time, at the moment, to troubleshoot.
I've got to finish packing and do the actual move.
Once I get settled in I'll check the components and especially for solder bridges. My hands would not stop shaking and it seems the most likely suspect for now.
Looks great though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181105/177e3eb3adfa801a270cd34aefcb7396.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181105/e2687fde702745be0e2d52f971fe0a25.jpg)
Catch you on the flip side.
-M
Typo'd from my iphone
That's unfortunate, but you'll get it going. And I can give you a little reason for optimism: the standard bypass in the Aion build docs are supposed to work like that. All lights are on. It's really different, and I really don't know why he chose to do it that way, but so long as you followed the diagram in the docs it suggests that your bypass wiring is working properly.
So you just have to start by breaking out the old probe. Sound clips coming in no time!
Yeah, it looks like I'm finally going to break down and build a testing rig a la the tutorial here. I don't even want to think about tracking down a problem in this size build without that.
Thx for the heads ups about the bypass, maybe its not as catastrophic as I think it is. Hopefully there is a bridge or a wire I forgot to connect.
Thx, AHT
Also, may want to try some generic single op-amp in IC1, if you have any, just to make sure your surface mount job isn't the culprit.
And a test rig is easy, all you need is a breadboard and a few components to make a noise generator, then an aligator clip, some wire, a capacitor and a spare jack to make an audio probe.
This is a dirt simple noise generator I use:
http://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/white_noise_826.png (vero or breadboard it up, your choice)
And my ultra-high-tech audio probe (100nF cap)-
(https://i.imgur.com/LANrU8X.png)
Hook the noise gen (or anything that will spit sound, radio, CD player, whatever) to the L5's input, switch the pedal on, then start poking the probe. Just start at the input jack and follow the circuit along point by point. I use headphones for this, but that's a personal preference
Wow, thanks Somnif, I think I can handle that.
So, this is probably a stupid/obvious question, but it's really a variant of a continuity probe right?
-Mike
Quote from: Ekimneets on November 05, 2018, 07:36:41 PM
Wow, thanks Somnif, I think I can handle that.
So, this is probably a stupid/obvious question, but it's really a variant of a continuity probe right?
-Mike
Pretty much, you just keep poking, component by component, until you find the spot where no more noise makes it through. Only tricky part is reading the schematic to figure out the actual audio path(s) - which admittedly is a little daunting in the L5 with all its various channels, but the schematic will give you the road map to follow.
Thx, now I just have to pack, move, unpack and set up shop. Should be a snap ::)
-Mike
Well, it seems I was a little hasty about the pedal not working. I was really bothered when if didn't work.
I took my time with the build and checked the build documents frequently. So, I dug it out and turned it on. turns out I had to crank the master up. Not sure if this is just the pedal, just the pot, some Combo OR something complety different.
I still need to do the setup, but what a relief that it's working. I'll post more after the 13th. Somnif, I'll still going to make that probe though. Thanks.
—Mike
That's a good catch with the master. This pedal is great but it has a few...irregularities? Some of the knobs work in a bit of a counterintuitive way. The compressor is that way. Make sure you turn it off when you first test, and then read the bit in the build docs about it to get a better sense of how it's supposed to work. If memory serves, the distortion trimmer can be finnicky too. Make sure it's not too low when you fire the thing up. Between that and somnif's patented EZ-probe, you should be in good shape.
Good luck with the move, neets. Those damn things are always a big job.
Thx, AHT.