(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/4802840136_1964b45351_z.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4802210523_a229c5ca32_z.jpg)
I just wanted to show a quick look at my grapevine before I paint it. I subbed a few parts values .033uF for .03uF. and it came out fine.
I was worried about the carbon comp resistors and stuff, but I just used what I had on hand and it sounds GREAT! not noisy at all.
I used a proskit enclosure becuase it's a little bigger than a 1590b and it gave me more breathing room to fit everything in.
I also got pretty crazy with my wire colors. I went with a rainbow theme across the top for the pots to keep everything organized. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, white, grey, black.
Nice build! Very clean wiring job. Personally I like the various wire colors. ;D
Just finished mine tonite as well,fun build .Im going to put that and a liquid sunshine clone together in a box.I like your wiring idea the colours will definitley help maintain some form of sanity eh !My box is at the powder coater so I will be able to slap together the whole thing this week...going with a post box red
http://www.altex.com//Velleman-24AWG-Stranded-Core-Mounting-Wiring-Kit-KMOW-P145678.aspx (http://www.altex.com//Velleman-24AWG-Stranded-Core-Mounting-Wiring-Kit-KMOW-P145678.aspx)
Velleman makes this kit of hook-up wire. I know alot of people prefer solid core, but stranded is better sometimes becuase it has less chance of breaking if you move it. I got this kit and I have made probably 15 pedals and I am not even close to half way through with the colors. They also give you MORE length on black and red because they are the most popular colors.
Ah ! Ive seen those kits.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/4807192341_95881e7811_z.jpg)
Here she is painted. I call her the GOLDEN SLAG. Which is also the nickname for my bands van which is painted a similar color.
I used TESTORS 1 coat lacquer in INCA GOLD. I used 3 coats baked in the toaster over 150 degrees for 30 minutes each coat. I was going to clear coat it but it looks good and I'm going to wait to figure out what to do for decals before I seal her up for good.
I also decided to switch to white knobs because it looked better than the black with this paint.
The sound is pretty good. I actually prefer it to my fulltone ocd. The only thing I don't like is the tone knob I only really like it cranked up or a little under cranked, other than that it sounds like a blanket. It is a really quiet pedal too compared to other dirt pedals I have. My rig is really noisy too (les paul with p-90's)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4811684238_58784de99d_z.jpg)
headline sign brand rub on letters. It was pretty lengthy process getting all the letters lined up. I put strips of masking tape for my baseline and tried to line up the letters the best that I could. a few letters broke so I filled them in with fine point sharpie. I can't even see the difference anymore.
several coats of high gloss polyurethane lacquer baked on to seal the letters in.
The gold box with the white/cream knobs looks really, really classy. Might need to emulate that for my honeybee clone. ;D
I too dig the gold. Were you happy with the testors paint. They have some nice colors. Also, did you prime it before the gold?
lokkin' pretty good for a slag! but I guess that's why she's golden, no?
Quote from: gtr2 on July 21, 2010, 04:12:32 AM
I too dig the gold. Were you happy with the testors paint. They have some nice colors. Also, did you prime it before the gold?
I am happy with the testors. I went with three coats and it got a little thick in places. I would recommend 2 coats only of this "1 coat" paint.
I did a coat, then 30 minutes in the toaster oven at 150ºF then a 10 minute cool down before the next coat.
3 layers of minwax polyurethane spray high gloss clear.
I did not use primer, I did sand the enclosure with 3 different grit of sand paper (a testors hobby sanding kit)
but since then I have found ALUMINUM OXIDE sanding sponges at an artists supply store. It is awesome for sanding enclosures. I got the medium/coarse grit, and then the fine grit sponges, they work really fast. Just clean up afterwards with dawn and water, then I clean again with acetone before painting. works great.
Hi there,
I was checking my DLS build on the great Brian's board against the one I did in a board i've designed, and I found a mistake on Madbean's. Mine was sounding like there was a blanket in the amp to, but now sounds VERY good, just like the real deal. The bright cap value is wrong, it isn't 100pF like shown in the schematic, but 151pF. When modding this, you can put a 5000pF cap in parallel with this one. That's the difference between Catalinbread's V1 and V2.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4091/4838458249_1d9b0ca047_z.jpg)
here is another enclosure I just finished with testors 1 coat lacquer. lime icehttp://www.testors.com/products/137180 (http://www.testors.com/products/137180)
process was this:
sand coarse aluminum oxide sponge
sand fine aluminum oxide sponge
wash with dawn rinse
wash with acetone, evaporates quickly
spray 1 coat of testors 1 coat lacquer
toaster oven 150ºF for 30 min
10 min cooldown
spray 2nd coat of testors 1 coat lacquer
toaster over 150ºF for 30 min
apply water slide decals (lazertran for lazer printers)
dry with towel and allow to air dry
apply minwax spray polyurethane high gloss http://www.minwax.com/products/interior_clear_protective_finishes/fast_drying_polyurethane.html (http://www.minwax.com/products/interior_clear_protective_finishes/fast_drying_polyurethane.html)
allow to dry for 30-60 minutes
apply 2nd and 3rd coats if needed.
Quote from: Battery Acid on July 27, 2010, 02:59:37 PM
Hi there,
I was checking my DLS build on the great Brian's board against the one I did in a board i've designed, and I found a mistake on Madbean's. Mine was sounding like there was a blanket in the amp to, but now sounds VERY good, just like the real deal. The bright cap value is wrong, it isn't 100pF like shown in the schematic, but 151pF. When modding this, you can put a 5000pF cap in parallel with this one. That's the difference between Catalinbread's V1 and V2.
I ordered another grapevine board so I will try this correction. does 151pf vs. 100pf make all that difference? 0.000151µF vs 0.0001µF. mine doesn't sound like there is a blanket over the amp, just when the tone knob is turned down.
I was also going to put the rawk/rock switch on a stomp switch with a 2nd LED for RAWK mode
Well, I'm using my tone knob around 12 o'clock and there's plenty of treble, no mudness at all. And I really think the 4700pF in parallel, as stated on freestomboxes by Nicholas, from catalinbread, is a veeery worthy mod.
BTW, that son of a ts looks just great!
The update on the Catalinbread site talks of adding a 5000pF cap in parallel with the 100pF bright cap, so that would make the combined capacitance 5100pF (5n1 or 0.005uF). He also said the range between 200pF and 5000pF sound bad to them. So basically keep it below 200pF or above 5000pF. Or better still, let your own ears decide!
I'll get this info added to the project docs about the caps. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome!
Soon you'll be sending more boards to Brasil (not with "z", hehe).
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4890449776_cd7f1541c3_b.jpg)
2nd edition.
It's 4 am so I can't really fire up the amp and test it out but everything works.
Cool!
I like the idea of having the Rawk mode selectable by footswitch. I am planning on doing the same when ever I get around to building this pedal. I also prefer the look of pedals executed in the larger box. They just look cooler, even if they're not as pedal board friendly.
Give us a review of the 2nd edition when you get a chance. Seems like you could almost use this pedal alone for rhythm and lead set up the way you have it. Was it necessary to go with the 1590 size box or was that a stylistic choice?
I like the larger enclosure also. It probably makes it sound better too ;)
Quote from: CapnCrunch on August 14, 2010, 07:51:55 AM
Give us a review of the 2nd edition when you get a chance. Seems like you could almost use this pedal alone for rhythm and lead set up the way you have it. Was it necessary to go with the 1590 size box or was that a stylistic choice?
I have a hard enough time hitting the right pedals let alone one pedal with two stomps on it. I think you could fit in in a 1590B turned sideways like the box of rock (http://www.rocknrollvintage.com/prodimages/Zvex-Box-Of-Rock-Distortion-Big.jpg) but you probably couldn't fit the grapevine board in along with a battery. You would probably want to put the stomp switches in the corners like I did to make more space for the board too. a 1590B turned sidways is the same width as a 1590BB turned sideways so you are only saving on the depth. it's going to take up as much horizontal space on a pedal board, and then you risk stepping on pots.
Is it worth it? I'm awaiting a grapevine pcb and does one really NEED the rock/rawk as a stomp or is a toggle good enuf? Again--just looking for a real-world opinion so I know to order a larger enclosure.
It's not worth it just a cool custom trick.
i made one too, but change some caps in tone control.(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs608.snc4/58802_1505354908645_1077425415_1456250_2845432_n.jpg)
Love the paint job! The air bubble texture in the red is top notch--what kind of paint did you use for that effect? Also, details on the cap substitutions!
Love the LED on the Crime Scene. Makes it look bloodier.
I dl'ed version 2 PDF of the Grapevine and there is no 151pF cap. I assume it's C9 that's supposed to be 151pF, is that correct?