Hello, I ordered some 1590A type box. I used them a pair of time to build AB Box, and now I'm seraching some little project for these little box.
I alredy have in list an IC Buffer, then probably a SHO.
Now, I have to to find a small good real distortion. No fuzz circuit (One Knob Fuzz, Bazz Fuss, D*A*M Meathead...). I like them but some I built and some I'll try later, maybe.
Just no PCB, I used to build with stripboard or in case with protoboard. Max two pots because I don't want to fill too much the box, but also at least two pots to have gain and volume control.
In my list there are the MXR Distortion +, Blue Clipper and Acapulco Gold.
- MXR Distortion +
I build the DOD250, enough distortion though the pot I used is a 500k (1M gives more gain). I don't like too much the DOD250 I built, because my version is too harsh (it was my second pedal). So I could base the new schematic on the Distortion + and tweak it a bit to have more bass and in case less harshness.
- Blue Clipper
I don't know it, but it seems have enough distortion, I just afraid it sounds too fuzzy.
- Acapulco Gold
I didn't want LM386 based distortion pedal, indeed this has two! ;D But it sounds good. Maybe a bit peculiar distortion, I hope that the layout I can found it's not too much large.
Any circuit I'll choose I can do some mods to adjust and improve the tone and to add gain if I can or I need.
I don't think there are many distortion circuits I could use, because I build just using stripboard or protoboard, but this is it, I can live with it. I don't want to buy PCB, too. It's ok If I work with tha board I told.
Suggestion? :P
Thanks!
Update: I can totally change my mind about LM386 distortion based on, because there's no enough distortion circuit small enough to stay into a A type box, excpet LM386 based on.
Red Llama CMOS based OD/distortion??
Thanks.
It should be this: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/06/way-huge-red-llama.html
Someone call it Red Llama Overdrive. I think it don't have enough gain for my taste, after I watched some videos.
Of course its all subjective, but there are a few distortion circuits that could fit a 1590a. However if you say the red llama is too tame, that does limit the list a bit, so lets say we want the hairy side of things.
There's always the Rat. I'm not a fan, personally, but its a grandaddy of a pedal and plenty of baby board layouts floating around.
Then there are the "amp in a box" style designs. I've seen 1590a scale Plexi-box and Sunn model-T designs both out there (The Acapulco Gold you mention above is part of that family).
I've also got a DOD FX55 (2 knob) in 1590a scale that I've never gotten around to boxing. Its very much a distortion rather than an overdrive, though your opinion of it may depend on your fondness for the late 80s to early 90s period of rock....
Or you could go ridiculously simple and just make an Electra distortion, always fun making circuits with fewer than 10 parts.
A while back, I fit a modified Gov'nor circuit (similar to the Suhr Riot) into a 1590a; that's probably got enough gain.
I also fit a BEOD in a 1590a, but that is not recommended. It's a really tight fit and can be a bit prone to squealing.
I've done "a few" if you want some inspiration (there are perfboard layouts for many of these): https://jonpattonmusic.com/things-i-make/
Quote from: somnif on March 25, 2019, 02:54:39 AM
Of course its all subjective, but there are a few distortion circuits that could fit a 1590a. However if you say the red llama is too tame, that does limit the list a bit, so lets say we want the hairy side of things.
There's always the Rat. I'm not a fan, personally, but its a grandaddy of a pedal and plenty of baby board layouts floating around.
Then there are the "amp in a box" style designs. I've seen 1590a scale Plexi-box and Sunn model-T designs both out there (The Acapulco Gold you mention above is part of that family).
I've also got a DOD FX55 (2 knob) in 1590a scale that I've never gotten around to boxing. Its very much a distortion rather than an overdrive, though your opinion of it may depend on your fondness for the late 80s to early 90s period of rock....
Or you could go ridiculously simple and just make an Electra distortion, always fun making circuits with fewer than 10 parts.
I found the Red Llama in the demo in the TagBoard Guitar FX really weak, as well the Way Huge: more an overdrive than a distortion pedal. But yes, it's subjective. I know I can't find a Triple Wreck voice or similar in a few components circuit, but at least some hard rock distortion.
Actually I don't mind the style of the distortion, it's just to have fun to build it ina a smaller box and to play with a distortion pedal.
I like the Rat, but the only stock Rat I built oscillated, I built twice a sort of Multi Rat version that I loved. Anyway in both of cases will be too much bigger, I think. Honestly, I thought about the Rat, and in particular what about the Rat without the output stage? The Rat has a lot of volume and I was just wondering about this possibility. Anyway I don't know if it works well nor if there's some verified and small layout around. :D
Something "amp in a box". I guess I didn't see in my collection some small layout of them. It could be ok just if has enough distortion.
The DOD FX55 is now in my list, but I will built it just if I like it more than to the MXR Distortion +. ;)
I think I excluded the Electra Distortion.
Quote from: pickdropper on March 25, 2019, 04:23:07 AM
A while back, I fit a modified Gov'nor circuit (similar to the Suhr Riot) into a 1590a; that's probably got enough gain.
I also fit a BEOD in a 1590a, but that is not recommended. It's a really tight fit and can be a bit prone to squealing.
Gov'nor probably has enough distortion, but I guess it's definetly too much large (as well the Surh Riot). Unless you know some Guv'nor layout wihtout equalizer.
Definitely not the BE-OD. If I will built it I'll use a larger box.
Quote from: midwayfair on March 25, 2019, 06:55:06 AM
I've done "a few" if you want some inspiration (there are perfboard layouts for many of these): https://jonpattonmusic.com/things-i-make/
Cool! I'll take a look better later.
Tell me clearly in case you recommend some pure distortion circuit and not overdrive or fuzz. ;)
Meanwhile, I found the Krank Maximus Distortion, more precisely, a sort of a modified and improved clone pedal: Protone Body Rot II. It's based on a LM386, and I know I told I don't want it, but with the Acapulco Gold I was already making an exception, at this point I say to include even LM386 circuit, then I will valuate case by case. Indeed, the Body Rot II sounds really good, it's small (but not really really small) and has a lot of distortion. It's in my list in... a 1590B box, because it has an eq, too much knobs. Well, probably a too much large board for my 1590A box.
I can try to leave out the eq section. In the verboard layout by TagBoard Guitar FX I can't save space though this, but maybe I can reduce the protoboard layout here: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2016/02/protone-body-rot-ii.html
And maybe I can do it better using this one: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/search?q=krank
I can just include an extra cap which is missing in the Krank Maximus.
To set the right output tone I can use the last schematic I found here: https://guitar-dreamer.blogspot.com/2017/03/krank-distortus-maximus-diy-and-mods.html even if I can't say it's verified. I think it should be ok.
I just to try draw it by myself.
Else, in this moment this is my list:
1. MXR Distortion +
2. DOD FX55
3. Acapulco Gold
A rat isn't that tight of a fit if you use 1/8W resistors and don't add a bunch of mods. I can easily fit that circuit in a mini; the hardware is tough on mine because I use four pots and a toggle switch, but a straight Rat should fit OK.
Thanks pickdropper, I want just to remind you, guys, that I build just using stripboard or protoboard.
I built the Rat a couple of time and I'm going to build it again, but not using this little box.
Anyway, just for saying: I have some of layout of the Rat. Excluding the Sabrotone layouts because those have some extra features I also have some from TagBoard Guitar FX. I built one once, and I got a bad squeal/oscillation issue. I had to build again the Sabrotone version though without the extra parts. In this case it will be too much large for a 1590A box. Even other alternative ProCo Rat layouts from TagBoard Guitar FX seem have oscillation problem much often.
Then I found this: http://diy-layout.com/61 and this: https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=38709&g2_serialNumber=4
Enough narrow, but a bit long.
In case someone want to build a Rat in a 1590A box I don't think we could squeeze a rat more than that using stripboard.
Quote from: JackSkellington on March 25, 2019, 09:44:42 AM
THanks pickdropper, I want just to remind you, guys, that I build just using stripboard or protoboard.
I built the Rat a couple of time and I'm going to build it again, but not using this little box.
Anyway, just for saying: I have some of layout of the Rat. Excluding the Sabrotone layouts because those have some extra features I also have some from TagBoard Guitar FX. I built one once, and I got a bad squeal/oscillation issue. I had to build again the Sabrotone version though without the extra parts. In this case it will be too much large for a 1590A box. Even other alternative ProCo Rat layouts from TagBoard Guitar FX seem have oscillation problem much often.
Then I found this: http://diy-layout.com/61 and this: https://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=38709&g2_serialNumber=4
Enough narrow, but a bit long.
In case someone want to build a Rat in a 1590A box I don't think we could squeeze a rat more than that using stripboard.
Fair point. You might be able to on perf, but I get why you wouldn't want to.
Update:
I can totally change my mind about LM386 distortion based on, because there's no enough distortion circuit small enough to stay into a A type box, excpet LM386 based on.
But I have some doubt about the Acapulco Gold. I am a bit scared because some people get squeal noise problem with it. I didn't find any definitive solution, somebody luckiest than other.
I heard some demo of the DOD FX55, but I think I don't like it.
So, this is the list, until now:
1. MXR Distortion +
2. DOD FX55
3. Acapulco Gold
And I have some doubts even for the Distortion+ because the board could be a bit large, even if not too much. ::) The pots will be 9mm for sure.
I'm searching even some info about the Ross Distortion and some mods I can apreciate about this kind of circuit.
I still have to try if I can leave out the eq section of the Guv'Nor and to find some alternative good LM386 distortion-no fuzz (taking count I already build the ProTone Body Rot board, and I don't want two pedal too much similar).
Runoffgroove Big Daddy?
http://www.runoffgroove.com/grace.html (http://www.runoffgroove.com/grace.html)
(Chunky High Gain Distortion, very few parts)
(LM386 based, though)
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/01/runoffgroove-big-daddy.html (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/01/runoffgroove-big-daddy.html)
Thanks. I'm looking the Smash Drive, too. LM386 and without JFET stage. A bit different control gain, and the demo I found seems good enough, with a lot of gain.
The Smash Drive has the a Marshall style eq, but I there's even a simple version. I found some version and replicas, I have to choice the better layout to modify a bit, in case.
I think the Distortion+ is a good choice. Maybe it's a sentimental fav for me because it was the first pedal I built, but it's flexible, sounds good, is simple to build and easy to mod (I think Brian Wampler's mods are all over the place and he does a good job of laying things out). One reservation, though: make sure it has enough gain for you. I think a lot of people would consider it more an OD than a distortion. I don't have a strong opinion. With the gain maxxed it's got a fair bit of gain, but it's never over the top. It also functions well as a cleanish boost and OD. But if you're thinking you want heavy metal levels of distortion you're going to be disappointed.
I think it would be a mistake to just discount LM386 based designs out of hand. There are a lot of designs out there and they can sound quite different from one another. Purple plexi? Smash drive? They also tend to be compact, which is going be awfully important for you if you're dead set on stripboarding into a A-size enclosure!
Distortion+ has enough gain for me in this case. Maybe I can try to increase the gain even more, but I guess this circuit is already pretty maximized. I'll do some research, anyway.
I know it's impossible find something metal, on stripboard, of course.
Now, I like the Smash Drive, I'm trying to built a layout by myself, and I could add some mods to tame high or add bass, considering it will not have eq nor tone control. I heard it can tend to have much shrilling treble.
I know a mate who liked high gain.
The Rat was the only pedal I made where he was happy for the gain knob to sit halfway.
I'll recommend the Madbean LaVache. It's what inspired me to get into pedalbuilding, and it's a damn nice sounding circuit.
Ok, thanks, the Madbean LaVache is nice, but pretty far from what I'm searching.
If the Distortion+ has enough gain for you, then that's the ticket. It's a good sounding circuit and it's really easy to mod because of its simplicity and the fact that there's so much great info out there already.
hao rust driver
try it on breadboard first, never hurt
i can draw onboard perfboard layout for younifnyou want
Yes, I can add the Hao Rust Drive. I knew it, but now I heard it a bit better some demo. I think I'll not include the switch. I prefer it with a gain control (or pre-Gain?) :P
I found this protoboard layout:
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/03/hao-rust-driver.html
The smallest side is 12 holes I can't check it now, but it should fit into a 1590A box.
Here's the veroboard layout, narrower but even longer:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2011/04/hao-rust-driver.html
I prefer work on stripboard, it's easier, but this boards are a bit bigger than I want, but maybe not impossibile to put it into a 1590A box.
287m, can you make a smaller layout?
Anyway, the one from Effectslayouts is already verified.
PS I noticed that TagBoard and Effectslayouts are differents. ???
ah im sorry, 0400 here :P didnt read about strip/vero
attached quick perf layout, didnt bring my thinkpad. For value, you can compare with David blog and Juansolo rusty sheriff.
imo, you still need that switch if you set too high, 1n and 4n7, not 47n
for strip/vero, see tagboard update layout
Hey! Where's the value? I'm kidding! :D I appreciated so much. ;)
I'll try to convert your draw in a protoboard layout, I'll post here later. The circuit is simple, but the layout will be unverified until someone build it. I use to be very cautious about this stuff.
Indeed, the 47nF was really high, I noticed that.
Thanks for let me know about the Juansolo version. ;)
Anyway, I guess there's two version, or at least three Hao Rust Driver pedal. A red one, without the toggle switch, probably the early version. Then two green versions, probably the same thing with a different position of the toggle switch: one on the side and a the newer with the toggle witch on top next to the knob.
Tagboard has, indeed, both the version.
The difference are in some values of caps and resistors, and one cap added. The update version on TagBoard, like of the Effectslayout version, has two electrolytic cap in the power section. Effectslayout version includes even the pulldown resistor and the polarity protection diode.
I have to agree with the RAT, it is awesome for high gain...
The crunch box was also one of my favorites when I started.
At the beginning I was considering the Rat, but the board it's a bit too large.
Also the Crunch Box has the board pretty big for a 1590A (I always mean using veroboard layout). Further, I would like to build the Crunch Box or something like that in another box, probably I'll try the JHS AT.
This is my updated list:
1. Smash Driver
Pro: Small layout; A lot of gain.
Cons: LM386 (but it could be ok).
2. MXR Distortion +
Pro: Barely enough gain, but it's ok.
Cons: Big layout.
3. HAO Rust Driver
Pro: It's nice.
Cons: Big layout, a protoboard is better; Not so gainy without mods.
Smash Drive is the one with more gain. Distortion+ sounds good, but the board is bigger. The same thing about HAO Rust Driver, it sounds good, maybe not so gainy how I would like, I have to see how work some mods. I should include the Drive pot, but that is not a problem.
The Rust Driver is in the last position just because I would like to build in another project, in a bigger box, maybe with some mods.
There is a Rat layout with 10x12 using vero. How small do you want the layout to be?
The size of the components is IMHO more important than the size of the board. Large caps are a no go.
Since all these schematics are based on opamps it would be easy to make some changes and achieve over the top gain from them. Not sure if it would sound good without some filtering...
A Rat layout with 10x12 using vero? :o Really? I never seen it! Can you link it or post it, please? :D
Yes, I am considering the size of the components, too. But I can change the components in case of lacking room. Using shorter electrolytic caps, for example. Or I could solder the IC without the socket IC (I never do it).
While the size of the board have to be necessarily small enough. And I don't want the board touch the jacks and the footswitch. This is my little afraid, now.
Quote from: JackSkellington on July 21, 2019, 11:25:29 PM
A Rat layout with 10x12 using vero? :o Really? I never seen it! Can you link it or post it, please? :D
Yes, I am considering the size of the components, too. But I can change the components in case of lacking room. Using shorter electrolytic caps, for example. Or I could solder the IC without the socket IC (I never do it).
While the size of the board have to be necessarily small enough. And I don't want the board touch the jacks and the footswitch. This is my little afraid, now.
EffectsLayout has a 13x15 perfboard layout for the rat that would probably fit a 1590a, if you used low profile electrolytics anyway.
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2014/12/proco-rat-1986-version.html
Thanks for the suggestion, anyway I'm excluding Rat even because I'm building a three clipping version into a 1590B box.
Anyway, tou see? 13x15 on protoboard. How the Rat can stay in a 10x12 veroboard? ;D Maybe a simplfied version? It will be interesting! ;)
Well they also have an 11x12 DOD250 (same as the Dist+ with some component value changes) protoboard layout, if that interests you:
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2014/11/dod-overdrive-250-grey-spec.html
Aion's build doc has a nice readable chart for what part values to swap out, if you don't mind reading a schematic as you do so: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7lfb3m6nlrq8v5c/aion-aphelion-distplus-documentation.pdf?dl=1
Thanks! The mainly difference between the DOD250 and the Distortion+ is a cap from input to the ground that tame a bit some highs, it could be useful.
And the schematis help me a lot. ;)
Meanwhile, I draw this:
(https://i.imgur.com/aGhlu6H.png)
I don't know if I drawn it well and though the schematic is pretty simple this layout is UNVERIFIED.
(I tried to copy the Effects Layout style for a better and easier reading). ;D
The only problem is that with this layout is a bit hard replace the 470k resistor with a pot using a small value resistor like a 4.7k as minimum gain resistor. Not impossible, just a bit tricky and unhandy, or whatever.
Ok... I probably made a mistake there, the layout was 10x18...
(http://diy-layout.com/diyl/61/render)
In the first stage shouldn't it be 100k and 330k? You can reduce this 100k resistor to see how much gain you can get from it.
Thanks for the layout of the Rat.
Quote from: thomasha on July 22, 2019, 11:52:51 AM
In the first stage shouldn't it be 100k and 330k? You can reduce this 100k resistor to see how much gain you can get from it.
Do you mean in the Rust Driver, right? The fact is there are two version, 100k and 330k are in the one I guess should be the first version without tone switch.
In the version that includes the tone switch we can find a 10k in front of the inverting-input of the opamp that I guess add gain and let pass more high, while the 33k is on the feedback loop, that I guess gives low gain (and there's even a 22pF caps to tame a bit og highs). Also the second let passes further highs, and maybe a stronger signal, reaplacing the 22k in the output with a 10k.
This is what I got by myself, I could make same little mistake, but this should be how those circuits work.
This is the emulation of v.1, v.2 and the Juansolo version I got with the software I use:
(https://i.imgur.com/D9E3sNI.jpg)
The three version are in "Bright" mode.
The v.1 seems to have less output and more low end.
The Juansolo version though the input and output cap are increased, looking at the v.2, should be just a slightly boost of the lowest end, but it's very similar to the v.2, and of course with more output, seeing the LEDs clipping. Rather, it seems have a mid-low a bit scooped. Of course the LEDs will have a different voice to the pedal, too.
Don't forget to try the Superjudge, with is based off the Hao Rustdriver but with tone and drive controls...
Ok, I took a look to the Superjudge, too. A tweaked Rust Driver with tone and drive controls, and a doubler voltage. Just to have an idea about it, but I don't need it now.
I built few days ago a board of a Protone Body Rot II (because I liked the idea). It's a clone of the Krank Maximus Distortus with some difference. Ii sounds heavy, gritty and raw. Probably I'll make some adjustment, it sounds a bit too much shrill.
(Looking at the Krank schematic the Body Rot II has a smaller coupling cap that cut a bit of bass, and a cap added that increase further "presence" frequencies, how if it needs!)
Anyway, the Smash Drive is a bit like the Krank/Body Rot II, but without the NPN booster/buffer in front. Change a bit the way to control the gain amount. I could work on it.
Quote from: JackSkellington on March 24, 2019, 09:53:40 AM
- Acapulco Gold
I didn't want LM386 based distortion pedal, indeed this has two! ;D But it sounds good. Maybe a bit peculiar distortion, I hope that the layout I can found it's not too much large.
I've built one. I bought the PCB from Coda Effects and it was pretty easy to built. I only had one problem with that. This pedal is stupidly loud. I have a 10Watt mini amp and even with the volume at 2, I could not play with it in my apartment. I finally got the time to mod it to lower the output. I changed an output resistor from 22-something-K to 1M and lowered the output cap to compensate to the tonal differences. Apart from all that, I added an additional pot for volume because the already existing one was not making that much of a difference.
If you ever built it I'd like to hear your mods (if you do any).
Happy pedal making!
I know the Acapuclo Gold is loud, is the another reason I wasn't so sure about it. Even if I think it sounds really good into a gain channel, probably. I assume there it should be less loud, but... We have to pay very attention to not disengage the gain channel before disengage the pedal! Else: Boom! ;D
Thanks for sharing your mod. ;)
I thought the 1M in the output is a very high, so, did you noticed less treble? Do you remember the value of the new output cap?
And I don't understand how you added an additional volume pot? A Pre-Gain how some mods I see?
How about a DAM Sonic Titan?
It's a nice medium/high gain Marshally sounding circuit
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/01/dam-sonic-titan.html
Thanks. It's an alternative. I prefer just two pot (Gain and Volume) becuase the room inside and outside. The DAM Sonic Titan is always about the same LM386 based circuit, this has a JFET preamp in front. I find easier a BJT preamp.
I'll try anyway the Smash Drive first, just because it's more simple.
Quote from: JackSkellington on July 29, 2019, 12:33:36 AM
Thanks for sharing your mod. ;)
I thought the 1M in the output is a very high, so, did you noticed less treble? Do you remember the value of the ew output cap?
And I don't understand how you added an additional volume pot? A Pre-Gain how some mods I see?
At first it was pretty muddy. But then I finally used one of the equations I learned in highschool I thought I would never use:
F(cutout)=1/(2πRC)
I put the original values and then I replaced the resistor value and solved for the new capacitance.
(I don't remember what exactly I changed but I'll search and post them bellow)
So now the output is lower but it has the same frequency response as the stock.
About the additional pot you asked.
It's kind of stupid but I was in a hurry for a rehearsal that day and I just installed an new A1M pot after the original. Kinda worked for the rehearsal and didn't give it more thought after that.
After I replied to your post I went back and checked again the schematic - because even thought modded it I'm still not 100% pleased with how I interact with it - and found out that in the PCB I bought for some reason the pot was not connected to ground although it is in the schematic. So even if I was settings the pot to 0 the volume was still pretty loud. So I guess if I connect that to ground it will work better and I'll get rid of the additional pot.
Hope I helped anyway!
This is a pic of the output stage of the schematic I used.
I replaced the C5 and R3 to 20 nF and 1M respectively.
Thanks! :)
I expect a muddy sound with a 1M in the output, indeed. But my software said no. If I will build it I will make some experiment.
Quote from: JackSkellington on July 30, 2019, 11:33:47 PM
Thanks! :)
I expect a muddy sound with a 1M in the output, indeed. But my software said no. If I will build it I will make some experiment.
Kinda late response but, what software do you use?
I use Tina TI. I learnt to use it in a few of days.
Sometime it is very useful to make some test before to try the real board. Though in certain circuit, especially fuzz, I got weird responses of the frequencies.
It's been a while, but something moves, or a sort of. ;D
I still doesn't try or breadboard the Smash Drive, that it's still in pole position as distortion.
Meanwhile, I built the SHO with gain and volume control in a 1590A box, my first serious 1590A type box. I doesn't have built the IC buffer yet, though it doesn't have pots nor footswitch I had some difficult to get enough room for the PCB, beacuse I'm a bit maniac. ::)
The stripboard is narrow but a bit longer, the electrolytics caps are tall, I decided to place the jacks not to much down but almost in the middle of the side the DC jack and the LED bezel occupy a bit of space placed in the middle up half of the box. But I'll do it, problably I'll use a 3mm jack with a tiny plastic frame LED bezel, and it should be ok.
Just a details, I bought the 9mm pots from two differents shop to find the right value. Both had a little bump, I don't know how I can call it, but you know, even the 16mm potentiometer had it, we break it to fit it into the box. Just the one on these 9mm is enough tall to make the pots crooked but too much short to break it. This time I menage try to dig a cavity (not a hole) on the inner side of the box and trying to gride with a 240 grit sandpaper. I just struggle a bit.
Is there some better way to do that?
Thanks! :)
Quote from: JackSkellington on November 19, 2019, 09:53:09 AM
Just a details, I bought the 9mm pots from two differents shop to find the right value. Both had a little bump, I don't know how I can call it, but you know, even the 16mm potentiometer had it, we break it to fit it into the box. Just the one on these 9mm is enough tall to make the pots crooked but too much short to break it. This time I menage try to dig a cavity (not a hole) on the inner side of the box and trying to gride with a 240 grit sandpaper. I just struggle a bit.
Is there some better way to do that?
Thanks! :)
I use a file to rasp the tooth off 9mm pots. Its easy enough to snap them off the 16mm varieties, but haven't thought up an easier way for the little guys yet.
Did you have any success with the Acapulco Gold? Im still not 100% pleased with it and the reason is that although the original cleans when the volume on the guitar rolls off, mine doesn't. I've searched everywhere about that issue and can't find nothing related.
Any advise will be welcomed! 8)
No, actually I am not going to build Acapulco Gold. Not briefly, anyway.
LM386 circuits should clean up nicely, I think. It was ok with my Noisy Cricket (the gain pot works about like that). My guitars clean up well the Smokey Amp.
The Acapulco Gold could be a bit different. I don't know.
What is your guitar? If you set the volume guitar pot at 3/10 or lower can't it clean up the overdriven?
Some little news. I'm still not building anything, I have to order some materials. Probably I'll try the Smash Drive based on the LM386 anyway, but I found something different that I could like more.
The Mockman 2.0 by ROG, http://www.runoffgroove.com/mockman.html. I can build the perfboard layout on the ROG web site, or use this one: http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2018/05/run-off-groove-mockman-20.html
If I am good enough I guess I can fit it in a 1590A box.
(http://www.runoffgroove.com/mm2.png)
It's a one-knob efffect, Volume pot only, but I'd like to have a gain control. I'm more comfortable with non-inverting input stage so I have to try, because I not sure how they could work, some solutions to get a good gain control.
1. Pre-Gain: a pot at the begin of the circuit, like the guitar's volume pot.
2a. In the first opamp feedback, with a basic resistor (33k?) and a 1M pot (linear or log?).
2b. The same thing but in the second opamp feedback stage?
3. How I see in a early version of the Mockman, a 100k linear pot in line in the input.
New little update. Nothing distortion pedal, again, but I'm trying to work soon about it. I'm wating some materials I ordered. ;)
I just want to say, after the SHO as boost pedal, I just finished the IC Buffer in the 1590A box.
Meanwhile, I'm looking some mild overdrive, too. I can read all this thread where I got some suggestion about the distortion, but I found them not very distorted.
I just want to say that I will build it on veroboard, or maybe on perfboard.
Of course, I accept new suggestion! ;)
Hello, I don't know how much people are still following this thread, but...
Here's the original Smash Drive schematic:
(https://i.imgur.com/BminAiL.gif)
I'm building the version without tone stack, of course.
I'm not sure if this pedal is never built by someone, but I'm trying.
First thing I did is to test it on the breadboard, and I got a little issue. The circuit had a lot of volume, I can hear the pedal even if my amp was at zero volume. And the sound was pretty fuzzy, a bit splatty and gated.
This is the second time I get something like this using a LM386 chip on my breadboard. I'm starting to think that the LM386 gets some problem with the breadboards, or with my breadboard.
Anyway, I draw a veroboard layout.
(https://i.imgur.com/74A2IP6.png)
So I built it, and it worked. But I didn't include now the 100R in line to the 9v, nor the 100nF ceramic cap. Then I moved the 100uF a column at right. And the 10uF is soldered exactly there, but moved "asymettrically". This movement is because the space on the board.
The sound was ok, no fuzzy or weird.
I based the taper of the pots, or maybe just supposed those, on some information I found on ti or on other similar projects (for example the Lovepedal Black
Magic). But I could misunderstood something, I'm going to tell why.
I tried a 5k linear pot as Drive pot and 500k linear as Volume pot.
Testing the circuit I found that I got a jump loud volume when I open a little bit the Volume. And the Drive pot start from a overdriven sound at minimum setting until an aggressive and grit distortion as I expected a bit from this chip. But the distortion raise up quickly when the pot is almost all at clockwise. Too drastically.
I replaced the 500k linear pot with a 500k log pot, and the volume works a bit better. But I guess it's still too much loud. A casual flying resistor, 5.1k or 10k or 20k... I don't remember, between the output and the ground helps to tame the volume. I'll find out a good value.
About the the Drive control. When the pot is at minimum the resistance between lugs 1 & 2 and the lug 3 is high, so the distortion is low. At maximum setting there's no resistance between those lugs and the distortion is high. I need something that decrease faster the resistance between the lugs 2 and 3, so If I'm not wrong I need a rev log pot, 5k or maybe smaller?
The bad thing is that the two 9mm pots I'm ordered are linear.
I left the Smash Drive into my building stuff.
And finally I made on breadboard the Mockman 2.0. It works fine and it's has a lot of gain. I tried a smaller resistor, about 22k, in the opamp feedback of the first stage, and actually it decrease the gain. I need to experiment more with it, but a pot log pot with a small resistor to set the minimum gain might be a good thing.
As Cx I used a 470pF, no problem with it.
The switch closed cut a bit of aggressive. Probably I'll let the the switch open, so without any switch for just one mode.
I bought a TLC2262 because ROG recommended it, but the sound was nice, but even funny. Not thin, nor muddy, but very nasal, like I had a wah pedal in heel position or a sort of narrow boosted peak at 1k frequency or something like that. ??? I hope I said it well.
I tried a JRC4558, and it makes to sound the circuit more balanced, normally, I'd say.
One day I'll try a protoboard layout.
I'm sorry about the TLC2262, I don't know why it sounds very very nasal. In case, I'll will use a JRC4558 or a TL072, maybe another usual opamp.
There are so many good ones out there. I liked the demos I heard of the Acapulco Gold so I breadboarded it and it was horrible. LOUD!!!
I'm a fan of the Dist+ but am spoiled rotten because of the Aion Aphelia. It has all the bells and whistles that really make the circuit shine but it's 1590B. You could incorporate a few of Kevin's ideas without the switching if you play around with the circuit a bit.
Bean's Fritter (Crowther Hotcake) is cool with a good gain range, and as mentioned the Snarkdoodle (Red Llama) based on the old Craig Anderton Tube-Sound Fuzz is a real nice change of pace.
I have to say that every time I tried some LM386 based circuit on my breadboard, it every time sounded weird or broken or whatever. Built on the stripboard and those are ok.
I expected that Acapulco Gold is loud, probably, if I will buil it, I'll include the gain pot, too. Maybe we can adjust the final amount of the pedal, I guess we talk about it in this thread.
I prefer get on focus on this Mockman, I think I like it. I am just a bit sorry about the TLC2262 (it is most sexpensive than other opamp), I really didn't expect that weird sound. The only thing I can do is try do change some caps, maybe. I don't know, now. But, as I said, with the 4558 it's better.
QuoteI have to say that every time I tried some LM386 based circuit on my breadboard, it every time sounded weird or broken or whatever.
Yeah, I built the Stank/Smashdrive and it didn't really sound right to me. Everything worked, but the dirt level wasn't really what I was expecting. I can't find any problems... so, I dunno.
I tried again the Mockman on the breadboard just like I did a few of time ago. It sounds right with the JRC4558 but now even TLC2262.
I can tame the distortion reducing the 1M resistor in the first gain stage.
It sounds very aggressive, high gain, and I like it. I don't like too much the decay of the notes, it's not quick, but the distortion abrupt too much suddenly. The things get worst if at low gain setting.
At the beginning I thought to have Volume and Gain control, letting the Modern Mode always On. Now I'm not so sure. I could build it like the stock version.
I guess my searching for a good little distortion will go on.
D*A*M circuit are pretty high gain, some ot them has small schematics, but those are almost all fuzz.
What D*A*M pedal is the less fuzzy and more distortion?
Waiting some updating about the distortion circuit I'll choice I'm going to finish a Speaker Cranker (with master volume added) as overdrive 1590A pedal, after I built IC Buffer and SHO. :)
Lovepedal Jubilee. 386 based, so it probably won't sound great on a bread board. I just made a little PCB with proper ground plane and shielding, and it sounds fantastic.
Yes, there are small layout of it, indeed. Or the Purple Plexi, too.
Both sounds great, and both have three pots, that is fantastic, but I think I want to try something with just two pots. I'll see what I can do with the Smash Drive (LM386 based on) and the Mockman. it's been a long time since the last tests so I have to test the boards again.
I remember, for some reason, at certain time the Smash Drive became a bit noisy. I liked the Mockman, but I had to find a good way to control the gain.
Waiting the Mockman 2.0's perfboard is finished I'm back on my Smash Drive. I experimented with it a bit, and now is ready to box it up. Almost. (I need a file to file the protrusion of the 9mm pot).
First of all, the layout is the one I posted above, except the 100R and the 100nF ceramic cap are still missing on my board, but I can included it soon.
A 5k reverse log for the drive control works fine.
A 100k log for the Volume is already soldered, too.
I made just a pair of modifications. A 15nF (also a 22nF will be good) replaces the 4.7nF for a fuller tone. The output doesn't come directly through the 100nF output cap, but I added a 470k resistor to tame a bit the volume.
So, the output cap 100nF is moved a column right, a new 470k resistor in the column 10 goes from the row 2 to the row 1, and I made a cut track at its left to isolated from the 47uF. And the Volume 3 wire is now moved one row upper, of course.
Just it.
Meanwhile, I'll keep working on the Mockman 2.0, I still need some experiment to make a decent gain control: a potentiometer in front (that generically I don't like it too much), a sort of Pre-Gain control in the input across the ground or a potentiometer in the first feedback of the opamp.
My Smash Drive layout:
(https://i.imgur.com/Yr7j5zk.png)
The layout works, but tell me if you see some mistakes.
Remember to jumper the 100R if you don't want include it.
The Mockman board on protoboard is finished. Currently, I used the stock schematic, it works and sound ok. With the switch open it sounds a little bit heavy, and I prefer it, so I'll keep this mode always on without any switch.
No I have to make some experiemnt to find the more right gain control.
It cleans up not so bad with the volume guitar, but if I can, I want to avoid a Pre-Gain control type.
I hope this topic still interest to somebody, meanwhile I'll keep to update it. ;)
I'm working on the Mockman 2.0 now.
This is the stock schematic, I guess we need it.
(https://i.imgur.com/EpQ4RzR.png)
I replaced the 1M in the feedback of the op-amp of the first stage with a 120k in series of a 1M pot. At lowest gain setting of the pot I get a cleaner sound, even if the clipping of the opamp is not so natural, and the decay of the notes oscillates between the clean and the dirt before to clean up completely. I think that dirt clipping could be in the second stage caused by the other 1M resistor that I guess is pretty high.
Afterall, that is not too bad, seeing what this circuit is. And of course this circuit is made to get heavy distortion, and that's not bad.
Though, even if I wanted to avoid, I'm thinking about to add a third pot how pregain control, that helps to get more sounds in combination with the gain control. Maybe I should add a "treble bleed" ceramic cap, too.
I found this circuit pretty loud even at low Volume setting. Is there some trick to lose a bit of volume without too much alteration of the overall sound?