Pre-Ordering is available for the Thunderpuss, ChunkChunk, Current Lover, Road Rage, HoneyDripper, BumbleeBee and the Dirtbag Deluxe. These PCBs will ship approximately Nov.15th. Pre-orders will incur a shipping charge, however, if you place an order for any currently stocked PCB at the same time, I will ship that portion of the order immediately (obviously, there will be no "second" shipping charge for pre-order boards).
I will also get the BOM available for the Current Lover, Dirtbag and HoneyDripper up in a couple of days. The others are the same, although I will be adding a little space to the Road Rage so you can do a flat mounted TO220 type regulator (15v for example).
done!
Yes, done! Nice to have more new projects arriving. Motivation to finish what's on the bench now. 8)
Awesome! My order is placed
Check and mate!
Josh
Thank you kindly. Order placed.
Oh I've been holding off my next batch waiting for the clickies. On my way to the projects page now!
LOL, that was a bit of a PCB blowout, I'm now $120 lighter... Mainly because I realised I only had 3 outstanding currently. A guy needs something to build over winter!
Most excellent news.
Lots of great projects for the winter building season.
im so keen for the current lover..
also.. Kingslayer? :-X
One thing I forgot to mention in the announcement: The DirtBag and HoneyDripper will run off 9v, however, if you are building the MN3005 version of the DirtBag (v3205 only works at 9v) you will want to use a charge pump and 15v regulator. With the HoneyDripper, I'm re-designing the stock power supply based on experimenting with my build. I found that it sounds best at 12-15v. So, I will recommend a charge pump for that as well. Not a plug to sell more "Road Rages" but some may appreciate having this info in advance!
The Dipthonizer uses an 18v supply in the stock unit and then knocks it down to 10v via Zeners, but I found this to be incredibly inefficient in my build. Using a regulated 12 or 15v supply and a voltage divider instead of the Zeners kept the voltages rock solid under load.
In like Flynn. Order placed!
;D
Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2011, 03:43:48 PM
One thing I forgot to mention in the announcement: The DirtBag and HoneyDripper will run off 9v, however, if you are building the MN3005 version of the DirtBag (v3205 only works at 9v) you will want to use a charge pump and 15v regulator. With the HoneyDripper, I'm re-designing the stock power supply based on experimenting with my build. I found that it sounds best at 12-15v. So, I will recommend a charge pump for that as well. Not a plug to sell more "Road Rages" but some may appreciate having this info in advance!
The Dipthonizer uses an 18v supply in the stock unit and then knocks it down to 10v via Zeners, but I found this to be incredibly inefficient in my build. Using a regulated 12 or 15v supply and a voltage divider instead of the Zeners kept the voltages rock solid under load.
You could also up the Current Lover 10V Zener up to 12V when using the 3007 and supply it with 12V, it is reported to sound better (makes sense, gets the extra headroom out the 3007 which is rated to 15V Max) so there's another case a Road Rage might come in handy!
You could also once again use a charge pump and 15V regulator on it and just ditch that zener entirely.
Oh and stop trying to steal all my money Brian ;)
Ha ha, yes I totally agree. The Current Lover MN3007 at 15v will sound great. The build I did was for the MN3207 so I topped it off with the Zener. But, you should absolutely be able to run the MN3007 at 15 if one takes the proper precautions. Thank you for pointing this out, Scruff! Also, Scruff: PM me your address: I have something to send along to you (in a couple of weeks).
Order placed. Yippee!!! ;D
hey brian, are there many slow loris's left? Its gonna be a while until i get back into building
Order placed :) Thanks
Quote from: madbean on October 27, 2011, 03:43:48 PM
One thing I forgot to mention in the announcement: The DirtBag and HoneyDripper will run off 9v, however, if you are building the MN3005 version of the DirtBag (v3205 only works at 9v) you will want to use a charge pump and 15v regulator. With the HoneyDripper, I'm re-designing the stock power supply based on experimenting with my build. I found that it sounds best at 12-15v. So, I will recommend a charge pump for that as well. Not a plug to sell more "Road Rages" but some may appreciate having this info in advance!
The Dipthonizer uses an 18v supply in the stock unit and then knocks it down to 10v via Zeners, but I found this to be incredibly inefficient in my build. Using a regulated 12 or 15v supply and a voltage divider instead of the Zeners kept the voltages rock solid under load.
Will be interesting to see how the HoneyDripper compares to my Dipthonizer clone in that respect (which also uses a road rage... They get around those little boards!).
Quote from: jtn191 on October 27, 2011, 09:17:25 PM
hey brian, are there many slow loris's left? Its gonna be a while until i get back into building
Plenty, ATM.
HI,
this is my 1st message..
sorry for my bad english..
i want to know the component of the dirtbag deluxe and the current lover..
because i have to do the order by e-commerce
when i can view the pdf file??
thanks for the reply..
Angelo
ramengo, I'll have this available this weekend.
What size is the PCB for the dirtbag? Trying to get a couple of the little things like the enclosure taken care of :)
The Dirtbag fits into a 1590BB in the vertical orientation :)
The HoneyDripper and Current Lover require a 125B.
Quote from: madbean on October 28, 2011, 06:23:15 AM
ramengo, I'll have this available this weekend.
You're such a tease... ;)
I've been checking all weekend. Can't hardly wait.
Here are the BOMs for the Current Lover, Honey Dripper and Dirtbag Deluxe.
The Honey Dripper no longer requires an extra Road Rage board: I was able to incorporate the circuitry onto the a revised layout. The parts needed for the RR portion are included in the HoneyDripper BOM. The Dirtbag still requires a Road Rage IF you are building the MN3005 version. These are not included in the Dirtbag BOM.
Woah... seeing that Dirtbag board is making me flip out! :o :D
I need a bigger pedalboard!!! :P
Awesome
Is 25V and > good for all the dirtbag caps or should we go with 35V and >?
Are the pots on all three of these pc mount?
Thanks!
25v is the most you need. Everything is PCB mounted.
WOOHOO thanks a lot Brian!!!
Looking at the current lover & dirtbag deluxe, is it safe to assume that any cap above 1uf is polarized?
Quote from: djaaz on October 31, 2011, 07:10:51 PM
Looking at the current lover & dirtbag deluxe, is it safe to assume that any cap above 1uf is polarized?
Yes. IIRC, all the 1uFs are polarized, too.
The real question is - does the V3205 version sound as good as the MN3005 version?
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on October 31, 2011, 08:36:35 PM
The real question is - does the V3205 version sound as good as the MN3005 version?
Jacob
uhhhh...bated breath for the first V3205 demo... :P :D:P :o
Got to say gtr2's MN3005 demo was
very impressive sounding
Quote from: nzCdog on October 31, 2011, 09:28:12 PM
Quote from: jkokura on October 31, 2011, 08:36:35 PM
The real question is - does the V3205 version sound as good as the MN3005 version?
Jacob
uhhhh...bated breath for the first V3205 demo... :P :D:P :o
Got to say gtr2's MN3005 demo was very impressive sounding
My guess for those that can hear a difference, based purely on the reviews that the V3205 were 'louder' than the MN3205/MN3005 the circuit will seem a little brighter while also a bit grittier due to the lower headroom of the chips.
However the overall sound should be the same me thinks, same basic circuit, single lower voltage chip choice...
Quote from: madbean on October 31, 2011, 03:26:30 PM
Here are the BOMs for the Current Lover, Honey Dripper and Dirtbag Deluxe.
Thanks so much Brian, these are really helpful. :)
I'm pretty close to boxing up the v3205 DB and the HoneyDripper )probably today). I'll be doing demos of both right after.
I assume IC6 of the HD is supposed to be LT1054? TC1054 looks like surface mount at mouser.
Thanks for doing the demo between the two versions of the pedal.
I decided to go with the V3205 version first & compare it to a deluxe memory man even if i guess that the components tolerance will have more to do whit what differences i could hear between two pedals than the chip itself.
maybe time to open a thread about the part sourcing of these wonders to come?
I'm curious already a few ICs on the Dirtbag BOM besides the obvious MN3005.
Quote from: Haberdasher on November 01, 2011, 05:22:45 AM
I assume IC6 of the HD is supposed to be LT1054? TC1054 looks like surface mount at mouser.
Whoops, that should be LT1054. I will get that fixed up today.
I noticed there is NOT a C44 or a C47 on the Dirt Bag. Is that a mistake or were they just omitted?
What i don't see is a C44 and C47.
Quote from: djaaz on November 01, 2011, 05:39:18 AM
Thanks for doing the demo between the two versions of the pedal.
I decided to go with the V3205 version first & compare it to a deluxe memory man even if i guess that the components tolerance will have more to do whit what differences i could hear between two pedals than the chip itself.
maybe time to open a thread about the part sourcing of these wonders to come?
I'm curious already a few ICs on the Dirtbag BOM besides the obvious MN3005.
The BBD chips are what I hear differences in. I've used both in aquaboys. I prefer the cleaner repeats of the mn3005's over the "darker" grungier of the v3205. But...that being said. In a band mix I never even think about it and the v3205's work great!
Josh
Quote from: tenwatt on November 01, 2011, 05:54:56 AM
I noticed there is NOT a C44 or a C47 on the Dirt Bag. Is that a mistake or were they just omitted?
These are just gaps in the numbering sequence...nothing to worry about.
PREORDERED. cant wait for this stuff. Christmas early.
Quote from: gtr2 on November 01, 2011, 08:30:22 AM
The BBD chips are what I hear differences in. I've used both in aquaboys. I prefer the cleaner repeats of the mn3005's over the "darker" grungier of the v3205. But...that being said. In a band mix I never even think about it and the v3205's work great!
Josh
That much difference? I guess i'll find out. But good thing to know, that means it's worth using socket to switch the component from the V3205 version to the MN3005.
That lead to the other obvious question: is there any reliable & reasonable source to buy this MN3005 chip?
It looks that there is more fakes out there than genuine chip.
Quote from: djaaz on November 02, 2011, 01:22:24 PM
Quote from: gtr2 on November 01, 2011, 08:30:22 AM
The BBD chips are what I hear differences in. I've used both in aquaboys. I prefer the cleaner repeats of the mn3005's over the "darker" grungier of the v3205. But...that being said. In a band mix I never even think about it and the v3205's work great!
Josh
That much difference? I guess i'll find out. But good thing to know, that means it's worth using socket to switch the component from the V3205 version to the MN3005.
That lead to the other obvious question: is there any reliable & reasonable source to buy this MN3005 chip?
It looks that there is more fakes out there than genuine chip.
Build a 3rd Aqua Boy though and it might sound different again! Circumstantial evidence, while true a 3005 has higher headroom, don't forget physcoacoustics and just the fact that two pedals built the same can sound different, to have a fair test it would have to be blind and to match every single component to the other circuit apart from the chips, I wouldn't fret over the chip difference.
And unless you run the 3005 AquaBoy on a higher voltage, you would receive no benefit from the 3005 chip, what it has over the 3205 is a higher max voltage to give it that higher head room, at low voltage (9V) there is some reason to beleive the 3205 would actually perform better than the 3005, although i'm not sure how much research has gone in to this, just the Datasheet specs.
As for switching between 3205 & 3005, I recall Bean reported that this resulted in dead boards on the Aqua Puss so it is probably not advisable unless you fancy building 2 boards... although someone may test it with the Dirt Bags and find evidence to the contrary, it'll be a risk.
And no, there are NO reliable sources for MN3005s, MN3008s yes, but it is just not worth the risk of buying 3005s these days (and anywhere you buy from will be a risk, UTSource, Ebay, even some DIY sellers may sell fakes).
When a large company like EHX gets burnt buying 3005s (and they have far bigger buying power than us DIYers) it is a sign to give up on that chip and as i've said before, any remaining 3005s should be reserved for repairs of original pedals.
The only reliable place to buy them would be by chance finding some N.O.S parts in an old electronics store that might not have sold them, I do occasionaly read stories of people having such luck and in which case i'd most likely trust them.
Orders sent for components & chips and for dirtbag delay & current lover.
Tried yet another ebay seller for overpriced MN3005s, foolish but i thought that at least one needs to be the dumb guy for the others. Of course, i will let you know how this goes.
Ordered the V3205 as well.
Brian, i assumed you will write a "MN3005 to V3205 switch for dummies" as part of the project file?
I could not find some of the exact references for the IC & was too lazy to read all the datasheets:
So i ordered :
CD4049UB instead of CD4049UBE
CD4013 instead of CD4013BCN
CD4047 instead of CD4047BCN
Asking for some advice here:
Option 1:
"Lazy dumb, get back online & find what was listed".
Option 2:
"No big deal, this won't change a thing"
Option 3:
"The fact that you ask the question shows you're not ready for this".
for those particular parts, i won't matter.
the UB part of UB means the outputs are unbuffered, which is what we want.
Usually, the letters after the part number signify temperature stability and conditions, things like that. So the BCN really has no meaning for our application. You'll be ok.
Quote from: djaaz on November 03, 2011, 12:53:38 AM
Orders sent for components & chips and for dirtbag delay & current lover.
Tried yet another ebay seller for overpriced MN3005s, foolish but i thought that at least one needs to be the dumb guy for the others. Of course, i will let you know how this goes.
Ordered the V3205 as well.
Brian, i assumed you will write a "MN3005 to V3205 switch for dummies" as part of the project file?
I could not find some of the exact references for the IC & was too lazy to read all the datasheets:
So i ordered :
CD4049UB instead of CD4049UBE
CD4013 instead of CD4013BCN
CD4047 instead of CD4047BCN
Asking for some advice here:
Option 1:
"Lazy dumb, get back online & find what was listed".
Option 2:
"No big deal, this won't change a thing"
Option 3:
"The fact that you ask the question shows you're not ready for this".
Haha, your IC's should be fine. Those numbers usually indicate things not too critical to the overall device function.
MN3005's are definitely iffy from an unconfirmed source. UTsource used to have legit chips but recently all the reports are that they have fakes as well. The suppliers in HK all sell fakes. There was a source in Huntington Beach that pops up occasionally that sells legit chips but I haven't seen them in a while.
As for the d-bag delay I think there are just a few jumpers to change near the BBD chips, a few resistors are different and the power supply is slightly different. It should be very well marked in the final docs.
I listed the specific versions I used as a benchmark, but I don't foresee any problems using different varieties. The only potential problem might be in using a 4049BE instead of UB(E), i.e. buffered vs. non-buffered. Even then, I'm not positive about that.
Quote from: Scruffie on November 02, 2011, 01:42:55 PM
And unless you run the 3005 AquaBoy on a higher voltage, you would receive no benefit from the 3005 chip, what it has over the 3205 is a higher max voltage to give it that higher head room, at low voltage (9V) there is some reason to beleive the 3205 would actually perform better than the 3005, although i'm not sure how much research has gone in to this, just the Datasheet specs.
You've convinced me to build the first of my 2 aquaboys V3205. Does the V3205 chip have about as much delay time as MN3005 or is it closer to MN3008? Either will do for me, just wondering :)
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on November 08, 2011, 01:09:57 PM
Quote from: Scruffie on November 02, 2011, 01:42:55 PM
And unless you run the 3005 AquaBoy on a higher voltage, you would receive no benefit from the 3005 chip, what it has over the 3205 is a higher max voltage to give it that higher head room, at low voltage (9V) there is some reason to beleive the 3205 would actually perform better than the 3005, although i'm not sure how much research has gone in to this, just the Datasheet specs.
You've convinced me to build the first of my 2 aquaboys V3205. Does the V3205 chip have about as much delay time as MN3005 or is it closer to MN3008? Either will do for me, just wondering :)
Yup, V3205s are a clone of the MN3205 which both have 4096 Stages. You can also buy 3208s in 8 Pin & 14 Pin sized package which are a lower voltage 3008.
The 320X Series came about as far as i'm aware to fit a need to run off (9V) batteries better than there 300X counterparts, infact, looking at the change of big brand pedals (BOSS, MXR etc.) from those higher voltage chips to lower voltage chips, it's possible to question if they're partially why the 300X series are in shorter supply, perhaps the line was ended in favour of the lower voltage chips as technology advanced... which may also explain why the only new production BBDs are 320X series, as those same companies were still interested in them (I know MXR has 3204s made for themselves so clearly they have the buying power, which sadly us DIYers don't).
But remember, if you build one MN3005 & one V3205 Aqua Boy, don't be suprised if they sound different ;D
Which reminds me, I remember reading people said the new production V3205s had a higher output than the old MN3205s, some changes may have been made in production I suppose when Behringer (Cool Audio) started making them so I wonder how the two 3205s compare in the same pedal.
Cool Audio is Behringer?!!?!?!?
Wow. That makes me not such a big fan all of a sudden.
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on November 08, 2011, 02:56:29 PM
Cool Audio is Behringer?!!?!?!?
Wow. That makes me not such a big fan all of a sudden.
Jacob
Well Behringer certainly owns a company called Cool Audio, I assume it's the same guys.
Don't let the name taint it, after all, they're just using original chip dyes.
Does this still look good for November 15th? I've got all my parts except the enclosure. What size should I order?
Quote from: madbean on October 30, 2011, 10:06:09 AM
The Dirtbag fits into a 1590BB in the vertical orientation :)
The HoneyDripper and Current Lover require a 125B.
Quote from: tenwatt on November 10, 2011, 08:52:54 AM
Does this still look good for November 15th?
It may be +/- a day or two, but not more than that. Sometimes orders from the manufacturer take a little less than two weeks, sometimes not.
Am I the only one obsessively checking the build docs every other hour? :P
Quote from: tenwatt on November 15, 2011, 01:01:16 PM
Am I the only one obsessively checking the build docs every other hour? :P
No. ;)
You might as well wait. I'll be running right up to the last minute with those.
I'm going to buy the pcb of the EM and DMM ... then I can have the information PDF ?
Quote from: ramengo on November 16, 2011, 01:10:35 AM
I'm going to buy the pcb of the EM and DMM ... then I can have the information PDF ?
Ramengo, the pdf will be available for everyone within the next day or two.
thanks...madbean!
Quote from: ramengo on November 16, 2011, 01:10:35 AM
I'm going to buy the pcb of the EM and DMM ... then I can have the information PDF ?
ramengo, if you go back to page 2 of this thread and check out Brian's/madbean's third and fourth posts on that page, you'll find some of the info in pdf form.
i have buy now!!!! i'm excited!!!