Ok, so I built the Man-o-War dx and calibrated it. Pretty straight forward. I have built the Total Recall and AQDX delays in the past, so this one came together pretty fast.
Here are some observations, please chime in if I'm way off:
When "tails" is the only thing going to the output, the indicator is off. I flipped it around, so indicator is on with tails only, and off when delay is going through. I don't know if I explained that well. Lol!
LVL trimpot has to be turned up, like a good 2/3 of the way up to get around unity gain. I also have T1 turned most of the way up so the repeats go on for a LONG time. I don't know if it's infinite repeats, but there are a lot of them! Nice thing about them is that the repeats remain fairly clean... Much cleaner than the repeats on the ABDX.
The MoW can go into oscillation but both T1 and LVL have to be turned all the way up.
I did use a 78L12 to give the MoW 12 volts regulated. All Electronics has a 12.5 volt DC adaptor for $3.50 which actually puts out 14.5 volts, so it's great with this setup.
I didn't have 1/8 watt resistors so I just used 1/4 watters and did the Japanese transistor radio trick to get them to fit. Lol!
I'm really thinking about using one MN3101 clock and just solder a wire from pin 2 to pin 2 and pin 6 to pin 6 of the BBD chips. Why, you may ask??? Because I'm cheap and I can use the second clock for something else!
Anyway, this is a great delay, the repeats are super clean but a very different delay than the ABDX. I like them both!
Dang. That was fast. Looking good! Can't comment on the questions, but I appreciate your reporting.
Yeah, I'd be interested in one of those. I'd probably put 4 MN3005s in it! Lol! I really like how the repeats stay so clean for an analog delay with the MoW.
Ok, so I was getting some bleed through to the modulation LED when the switch was set to the middle (off) position. I went to add a second switch which basically took the modulation LED out of circuit and low and behold the PCB switch now works as it should! I must have had the resistors too close together or something but now the modulation switch works as it should on the PCB! Oh well...
The rate LED light is still there. I just lifted the leg of R62 that goes to R63 and the opto LED and stuck a spst switch there. After I did that, I can leave that switch in the "on" position and the PCB switch works as it should. What's funny is that I'm pretty meticulous when building PCBs as I use a magnifier to check my work after every few connections... So I don't think there was a solder bridge or anything out of place...
Yes, for some reason there is bleed through in the way the Man-o-War mod opamp is wired to the opto LED. The way the modulation is configured in the ABDX, there is no bleed through to the opto LED.
Well that's definitely a bug I did not foresee and did not notice in my build. I'll check into this and report back. I understand why it's happening, but I need to check on how much of an effect it's going to have.
Quote from: madbean on October 07, 2019, 07:01:24 AM
Well that's definitely a bug I did not foresee and did not notice in my build. I'll check into this and report back. I understand why it's happening, but I need to check on how much of an effect it's going to have.
This is slightly reminiscent of my issue with the Pork Barrel rate LED (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=29385.0). Keeping an eye on this thread and holding off on my MoW DX build to see what changes may/may not need to be made.
If the following matters:
The opto LED is a standard red diffused LED and the rate indicator LED is a high brightness blue LED. All associated resistors are what the schematic calls for.
The bleed through doesn't happen when the effect is first turned on; it starts up after a few seconds and kind of ramps up with time. On mine, it does affect the sound of the delay (makes it modulated).
Like stated before, for a quick fix I just installed a simple on/off switch to the opto LED.
Hope this helps...
The problem might be that when the modulation is "off" the op-amp's non inverting input is just floating.
Any other insights here? I'm wondering if I should build mine straight up with the added SPST switch or another fix or if this is unnecessary.
The repeats are super clean but a very different delay than the ABDX,so the repeats stay clean on the MOW but not on the Aqua boy deluxe ,the pdf says the MOW can get gritty after a few repeats.
I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.
Quote from: madbean on November 01, 2019, 06:04:38 PM
I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.
My first thought would be to try adding a 2M2 Ω resistor from pin 3 of IC7-A (where the T/O/S switch connects) to ground. At least that portion of the opamp wouldn't just 'float' when the Modulation is set to Off. Mind you I've slept since I've done any real design work. Still, I'm look forward to seeing your solution. I'm in the population stage on my M-O-W and have all the resistors, diodes, sockets, trimmers & caps in place and am now in hold mode till I see a more affirming solution from you. Meanwhile, I'll focus on the enclosure design. Thanks for looking into this Brian.
Quote from: madbean on November 01, 2019, 06:04:38 PM
I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.
Any further word on this? I'm about done populating my Man-O-War Deluxe and currently on hold to leave room for any mods if need be. Thanks!
Quote from: Cybercow on November 04, 2019, 08:14:33 PM
Quote from: madbean on November 01, 2019, 06:04:38 PM
I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.
Any further word on this? I'm about done populating my Man-O-War Deluxe and currently on hold to leave room for any mods if need be. Thanks!
Solution has been found! Or rather, you found it :) A 2M2 from IC pin3 to ground fixes the issue. I'll type up the correction and post it in the errata section.
Mark, expect a little something in the mail from me soon. This one had be knackered. I tried several other solutions before yours and none of them were nearly as easy or clever. You kinda saved my bacon here.
Quote from: madbean on November 05, 2019, 04:51:14 PM
Quote from: Cybercow on November 04, 2019, 08:14:33 PM
Quote from: madbean on November 01, 2019, 06:04:38 PM
I'm working on the LED bug issue right now and it's actually a bit tougher nut to crack than I initially thought (as far as finding the simplest, least intrusive fix). I think I know what to do at this point. I should have a final update tomorrow.
Any further word on this? I'm about done populating my Man-O-War Deluxe and currently on hold to leave room for any mods if need be. Thanks!
Solution has been found! Or rather, you found it :) A 2M2 from IC pin3 to ground fixes the issue. I'll type up the correction and post it in the errata section.
Mark, expect a little something in the mail from me soon. This one had be knackered. I tried several other solutions before yours and none of them were nearly as easy or clever. You kinda saved my bacon here.
Brian - that's rather re-assuring. Thanks! Now I feel better both about what I recall about electronics and moving forward with this build. Here's how I plan to tack a 1/8 watt 2M2 Ω resistor from the center pin of the 3-way toggle (which is connected directly to pin 3 of IC 7-A) to ground - at the #1 lug of the Feedback pot nearby. (hopefully the image uploaded correctly.)
Glad I could help.