Hey, guys. I don't know about you but I've bungled a few of these unforgiving little @#$%$ when trying to get the most usable space inside. I recently sacrificed a 1590A so that I could learn what works and what doesn't.
This isn't the end all be all for measurements on this enclosure. I'm sure there are better setups, I've only been at this a short while. But I thought this might help someone that's about to start their first 1590A as an idea of at least where to drill without trial and error.
(https://i.imgur.com/jXmJYTC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HTvXuTv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ln6m144.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6HI5yBZ.jpg)
Make sure you use the external power jacks, ever extra bit of space inside the enclosure counts.
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-enclosed-frame-with-switch-external.html
Use open mono jacks so that you can get them close together, also make sure you bend the lugs so they're parallel with the sides of the enclosure or they'll be in the way of the guitar/amp cable tips and the footswitch.
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-mono-chassis-socket-jack.html
One thing to watch for is the little metal tab that's part of the Tip connection. Sometimes it sticks out higher than the wafer sections on the jack and could end up touching the enclosure and grounding out. If your jack looks like that, you can do this to slide it down out of the way.
(https://i.imgur.com/j4j4pn2.gif)
Both of these jacks are good to go.
(https://i.imgur.com/cZwn93V.jpg)
Here it is all put together.
(https://i.imgur.com/OWZtydu.gif)
Anyway, I hope that helps at least 1 person from ruining an enclosure due to a measurement error. Again this is not the end all be all, it's just what I've found to work well. If someone has a better setup, please show me because shoehorning stuff into these enclosures is fun/frustrating and if I can get a few extra MM out of it, that'd be awesome.
Cheers!
MTK
Hey, that's a great tutorial. It's what diy is all about. I use the drill guides listed on the build docs. I also like to just place the components on and mark the the drill holes. I will always be close but off on a 1590a, they're just too damn small for my old eyes.
Excellent tutorial!
That is a mighty fancy square too! (I can't afford one--I just looked it up)
Thank you. I built using 1590A box just sometime in the last months, and every time I have to measure it like you with very very care.
I converted the inch in mm.
Footswitch: 11,1mm from the base
Power Jack: 11,1mm from the top
Input jack: 14,3mm from the top; 15,1mm from the top
Output jack: 14,3mm from the top; 23,8mm from the top
hmm, cool. How are you keeping the jack lugs from touching the case? ...or the tips from creeping together? Is that a special washer?
Quote from: jimilee on January 29, 2020, 04:40:53 PM
Hey, that's a great tutorial. It's what diy is all about. I use the drill guides listed on the build docs. I also like to just place the components on and mark the the drill holes. I will always be close but off on a 1590a, they're just too damn small for my old eyes.
Thanks, I used to do the same thing. Place the part and eyeball the center and try to mark it the best I could.
Quote from: JackSkellington on January 29, 2020, 04:51:25 PM
Thank you. I built using 1590A box just sometime in the last months, and every time I have to measure it like you with very very care.
I converted the inch in mm.
Footswitch: 11,1mm from the base
Power Jack: 11,1mm from the top
Input jack: 14,3mm from the top; 15,1mm from the top
Output jack: 14,3mm from the top; 23,8mm from the top
Good call on the MM conversion. Thanks, man.
Quote from: Aentons on January 29, 2020, 06:05:20 PM
hmm, cool. How are you keeping the jack lugs from touching the case? ...or the tips from creeping together? Is that a special washer?
Hey, dude. The lugs are about 1/8" from the enclosure so, they're fine. You can throw a little tape on there if it gives you peace of mind. I don't understand what you mean about the tips creeping together, the jacks don't move.
(https://i.imgur.com/QBdzyZI.jpg)
&^%ed DC jacks are out of stock. Again.
I once built an Axis Fuzz Face in a 1590A, where the jacks align on one axis (pun intended). Oh yeah, and I put a battery in it as well, as I wanted to avoid echoes in the enclosure ;-)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4NBkmzrJ/Axis-Face-Drill-Template-1950a.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/P5RgMdX9/Fuzz1.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZhrfWBw/Fuzz2.jpg)
Quote from: Marshall Arts on February 25, 2020, 12:08:00 PM
I once built an Axis Fuzz Face in a 1590A, where the jacks align on one axis (pun intended). Oh yeah, and I put a battery in it as well, as I wanted to avoid echoes in the enclosure ;-)
Now you're just showing off. ;)
What are those little jacks you've got there? Having them not staggered would save a bunch of space.
I am sorry, I could not resist. I am not sure, if I would do that to me again, but staggering the jacks gives you a lot of space, if you don't use a battery. Oh yeah, and you would not have to use a TRS jack for the input to disconnect the battery either. The Jacks are regular Lumberg Jacks like this one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lumberg-6-3mm-chassis-mono-jack-chassis-socket-/291403000107
With a bit of bending the solder flaps (?) , it is absolutely doable. Just keep in mind, that you need some extra space for the tip connector to move when the jack is inserted...
Quote from: MTK on January 29, 2020, 08:49:53 PM
Quote from: Aentons on January 29, 2020, 06:05:20 PM
hmm, cool. How are you keeping the jack lugs from touching the case? ...or the tips from creeping together? Is that a special washer?
Hey, dude. The lugs are about 1/8" from the enclosure so, they're fine. You can throw a little tape on there if it gives you peace of mind. I don't understand what you mean about the tips creeping together, the jacks don't move.
The jack nut tends to loosen a little over time with usage, especially with those round jacks, and then they start to twist. If you look at the jacks in MA's fuzz face, the square box enclosure is to prevent that.
Quote from: Marshall Arts on February 25, 2020, 02:10:02 PM
I am sorry, I could not resist. I am not sure, if I would do that to me again, but staggering the jacks gives you a lot of space, if you don't use a battery. Oh yeah, and you would not have to use a TRS jack for the input to disconnect the battery either. The Jacks are regular Lumberg Jacks like this one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lumberg-6-3mm-chassis-mono-jack-chassis-socket-/291403000107
With a bit of bending the solder flaps (?) , it is absolutely doable. Just keep in mind, that you need some extra space for the tip connector to move when the jack is inserted...
Awesome! I'll get some of those for sure. Thanks, man.
Quote from: Aentons on February 25, 2020, 02:25:20 PM
The jack nut tends to loosen a little over time with usage, especially with those round jacks, and then they start to twist. If you look at the jacks in MA's fuzz face, the square box enclosure is to prevent that.
you can use tooth lock washers (hope the translation was correct). that should help with nuts getting loose. something like this: https://www.musikding.de/Zahnscheibe-M10-aussen
Quote from: m-Kresol on February 25, 2020, 08:05:32 PM
Quote from: Aentons on February 25, 2020, 02:25:20 PM
The jack nut tends to loosen a little over time with usage, especially with those round jacks, and then they start to twist. If you look at the jacks in MA's fuzz face, the square box enclosure is to prevent that.
you can use tooth lock washers (hope the translation was correct). that should help with nuts getting loose. something like this: https://www.musikding.de/Zahnscheibe-M10-aussen
May also see them listed as star washers, just make sure the teeth are inside and not around the outside of the washer. They do work very well.
dave