Thought it might be good to have an all purpose "things i have learnt by failing first" thread. The majority of my failed beginner builds were due to one or several of these factors. Feel free to add to the list!
* GROUND THE SLEEVES
When testing a circuit outside of the enclosure, or if using a plastic enclosure, or if using plastic isolated jacks, make sure BOTH the input and output sleeves are grounded ie connected together. The madbean wiring document shows only the input sleeve grounded because it assumes the sleeves will be connected together by the metal enclosure!
* SOCKET
When starting, socket all transistors and IC's. This will ensure you dont fry them and also if you happen to put them in backwards, you can easily pull it out and orient it the correct way.
* LED RESISTOR
Remember never to attach an LED straight to positive.. it will burn out and be useless. Always put a resistor (~2-5k) in series with the round side.
*DC JACK
Stay away from the metal DC Jacks, unless you exclusively use plastic enclosures. Buy the plastic Boss style DC Jacks instead.
*USE A PSU FOR TESTING
A battery never gives exactly 9v and will drain over time. Power supply can make a massive difference to how builds sound. Make sure you use a Power Supply when testing builds, or else test your battery!
*RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB
Use a 20-30W solder iron when starting out. Buy decent solder, it makes a big difference. Get a pair of sharp and small wire clippers to trim the excess leads. A solder sucker is also handy. A PCB holder is crucial.
I'd ammend the list a little... some things we disagree on/ i'd alter/ have more to them/
* GROUND THE SLEEVES
Yes they should probably both ground, try and ground them to the same point though rather than eachother, i.e star grounding, it's just good practice.
* SOCKET
Double edged, socketed transistors (not so much ICs in my experience, but it can happen) can fall out, so you do make your builds more susceptable to faliure. Checking a datasheet vs schematic and using proper anti-static precuation in the case of certain parts (MOSFETs, BBDs etc.) is better to get orientation correct and not destroying it, i've yet to burn out a silicon transistor and I tortured some hard (melted plastic)
* LED RESISTOR
As long as it has a resistor somewhere to limit current it should be fine.
*USE A PSU FOR TESTING
Actually a battery can be a fair better tool for testing, it wont introduce noise, it will be regulated to some extent (an unregulated 9V supply could be 14V, a 9V battery wont be more than 10 most likely) some builds are picky about particular power supplies etc.
*RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB
A high enough temperature iron is a given, 'decent solder' is a broad term, what does it mean? Personally I like the usual 63/37 but some people are more comfortable with unleaded, i've never found one brand to work better over another. Wire cutters are necessary, you can also use nail clippers. I've never used a PCB holder in my life and my pedals have turned out fine, it's not crucial at all, just handy.
Thanks for your input both of you.
By the way, the CLR on an LED can attach to either side. It doesn't matter if it's before or after an LED, so it can be attached to either the round or flat side.
jacob
spend a few bucks on a good pair of wire strippers like Klein Tools. don't do like I did and rummage through your dear old Dad's ancient tool chest for a pair, you'll only make everything twice as difficult as it needs to be.
another vote for 63/37 solder.
and also for a halfway decent solder sucker/pump, especially since I can't use braid to save my life. I paid $8 for my pump- and it's still going strong- so don't feel like you need to rush out and spend $30 on a Soldapult. not at first anyway. 8)
i've got a suction vise that i use to hold circuits, pots, etc on a regular basis but I've built things without it too. I'm glad I have one for sure, but at the end of the day it may be more of a luxury than a need.
get a set cheap set of step bits (at Harbor Freight for example) if you are planning to drill your own enclosures.
for the clr, use the 4k7 called for in most of the documents if you're using diffused LEDs, but do yourself a big favor: plan on using a 10k-12k if using superbright LED's. using a 4k7 with a blue superbright can actually be painful to your eyes. my first pedal was like that and I could barely stand looking at it.
Quote from: Haberdasher on November 20, 2011, 04:55:22 AM
don't do like I did and rummage through your dear old Dad's ancient tool chest for a pair, you'll only make everything twice as difficult as it needs to be.
That's exactly what I did but my pair have been going strong for years :D
I don't think they'd really been used prior tough.
Quote
another vote for 63/37 solder.
I think this'll be a recurring theme in this thread ;)
Quoteand also for a halfway decent solder sucker/pump, especially since I can't use braid to save my life. I paid $8 for my pump- and it's still going strong- so don't feel like you need to rush out and spend $30 on a Soldapult. not at first anyway. 8)
Very good point, I think my solder sucker was £4, it's lasted me all the builds i've done over the past 2 years, the tips a little melted but it's still working, they really are quick and easy and can be a life saver... if for some reason your life hangs in the balance regarding solder being where it shouldn't be...
Quotei've got a suction vise that i use to hold circuits, pots, etc on a regular basis but I've built things without it too. I'm glad I have one for sure, but at the end of the day it may be more of a luxury than a need.
I just put all my boards on a flat surface, I have an old wooden table matt, makes stuffing boards quick, fill all the resistors, put it on the board, flip it, solder them all and cut the leads off, do so for the jumpers etc. occasionally a resistor or something isn't completely flush but good enough.
Quoteget a set cheap set of step bits (at Harbor Freight for example) if you are planning to drill your own enclosures.
This i've been meaning to do for a long time, drilling is my most hated part and due to my poor drills selection, I usually have to file the holes out by hand with a circular file (a useful tool actually, you can use it to 'correct' misdrilled holes by moving them slightly in whatever direction necessary, the hardwares nut will usually cover the hole if you're careful).
get a set cheap set of step bits (at Harbor Freight for example) if you are planning to drill your own enclosures.
for the clr, use the 4k7 called for in most of the documents if you're using diffused LEDs, but do yourself a big favor: plan on using a 10k-12k if using superbright LED's. using a 4k7 with a blue superbright can actually be painful to your eyes. my first pedal was like that and I could barely stand looking at it.
[/quote]
Use 24AWG Bonded or Solid Core wire. Don't get the cheap 'tinned/stranded' stuff its horrible to work with
buy two or more than you need of any cheap parts like resistors, caps, etc because your going to lose or break your last one and curse when you have to go to Radio shack and pay high prices or not find the part you need.
(Currently have a nice build that won't light up cause I am out of 4k7 resistors)
Hey, if you like the pedal you can always use the extra parts to make another for a friend
Quote from: nzCdog on November 20, 2011, 07:18:08 PM
Use 24AWG Bonded or Solid Core wire. Don't get the cheap 'tinned/stranded' stuff its horrible to work with
nzCdog, do you have a brand or source suggestion for this?
I got some of small bear #24 prebond and it's OK
But the insulation can melt easily if you bump it with your iron
Quote from: Grigori on November 20, 2011, 11:47:39 PM
Quote from: nzCdog on November 20, 2011, 07:18:08 PM
Use 24AWG Bonded or Solid Core wire. Don't get the cheap 'tinned/stranded' stuff its horrible to work with
nzCdog, do you have a brand or source suggestion for this?
Hey Grigori... Smallbear stocks it... I use this stuff and like it
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=85 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=85)
I've heard some guys recommend this stuff from effects connection also:
http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=29_53 (http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=29_53)
Quote from: snz728 on November 20, 2011, 11:58:17 PM
I got some of small bear #24 prebond and it's OK
But the insulation can melt easily if you bump it with your iron
Yes, I noticed that myself Steve... I still really like the SB wire tho, it bends to shape, staying where you want it to... (so much easier than the nasty cheap Jaycar stuff I was using previously!) :D
Quote from: nzCdog on November 21, 2011, 12:03:32 AM
Hey Grigori... Smallbear stocks it... I use this stuff and like it
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=85 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=85)
I've heard some guys recommend this stuff from effects connection also:
http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=29_53 (http://www.effectsconnection.com/oscommerce/index.php?cPath=29_53)
Thanks!
The effects connection wire is nicer than small bear's IMO, but order it through ebay if you are going to get some, ordering through their website has become very risky, and you may not get an order confirmation, or your order at all, then have to wait for paypal to help you resolve the problem. on ebay you get you money back quicker if something goes wrong.
Just in case someone is reading this that doesn't know.
CLR = current limiting resistor
Josh
I've been using 60/40 solder. What brand of 63/37 do you all use? What's the benefit of 63/37? I'm guessing it has a lower melting point?
Quote from: keysandguitars on November 22, 2011, 05:48:02 PM
I've been using 60/40 solder. What brand of 63/37 do you all use? What's the benefit of 63/37? I'm guessing it has a lower melting point?
60/40 is fine, 63/37 just has a slightly slower melting point but is made of the same stuff.
I made a mistake actually, my reel is 60/40 too, workin' fine.
DIGITAL MULTI METER (DMM)
Highly recommended. Mostly cheap to buy and a great tool to troubleshoot and learn electronics as you go. If possible try to get one that is Auto Ranging and has the functions of DC Volts, DC Current, Resistance, Continuity, Diode test, Transistor test and Capacitance as well. I got mine (http://www.dicksmith.co.nz/product/Q1456/auto-ranging-digital-multimeter) pretty cheap here in NZ.
I also HIGHLY recommend you get some 'alligator clip' attachments in addition to the probes... they are essential! (unless you have 3 arms) I use these (http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=WT5220&keywords=dmm+alligator&form=KEYWORD)
Having a DMM really helps you to learn as you go, test your parts and troubleshoot your problems. Without one it really is like flying in the dark...
in my opinion - learn about the components you are buying. There are tons of color charts for resistors but for capacitors, I print this out and have it handy:
http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html
Every parts supplier seems to list caps a different way. Knowing that 47n is .047uF and 47000p can save you from unnecessary screwups and wasted time. As well as ruining boards by doing multiple de-solders. I know this from experience.
I also find it helpful to keep a sheet with the pinouts and substitution qualities of the common transistors I encounter regularly. It saves time not having to look it up all the time.
Audio probe, audio probe, audio probe.
Did I mention audio probe...unless all your pedals fire right up :-\ Mine don't.
Regarding solder and the difference between 60/40 and 63/37 this is from a guy who is some kind of metallurgist something or other over there. Maybe he is the mechanical engineer who did some metal work something or other....
------------------------------------
Yes, it can cause a difference, but only if you move the joint while the solder is cooling.
Theory time:
Ok, so when a metal solidifies (I got a degree in this shit to bring you this distilled version, you better be appreciative ) it can happen a couple of different ways. Here are the two we care about:
Way number 1: the metal starts to solidify a little bit at a time. First you get solid little grains, then they grow, then before you know it you have solid metal. This is what 60/40 solder does.
Way number 2: the metal immediately changes from complete liquid to complete solid. Now this isn't really all that likely to happen in real life because of impurity elements and such that change the solidification temp and such, thermal mass and cooling rate, solidification front stuff, ya ya ya ya ya, but for our purposes we'll ignore all that and say that 63/37 solder solidifies immediately. This is the "eutectic" composition for the lead/tin alloy system. For those following along at home, you can read about phase diagrams, binary alloy systems, and eutectic compositions on your own with Google sitting on your lap.
Back to reality:
Ok, so if you move the joint while the solder is solidifying and you're using 60/40 solder, you have a greater chance of making a poor solder joint than if you use 63/37 solder because of how the metal solidifies and how fast that happens.
Here is the link if you want to read more
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=33518&p=278414&hilit=63%2F37+kester+solder#p278414
Thanks TN, that drives the point home. I'm not about to drop another $30 on a lb of 63/37 until I finish off my current spool. I'll just have to be steady as a rock. :P
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcgyk62cHU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcgyk62cHU)
Quote from: keysandguitars on November 23, 2011, 05:27:45 PM
Thanks TN, that drives the point home. I'm not about to drop another $30 on a lb of 63/37 until I finish off my current spool. I'll just have to be steady as a rock. :P
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcgyk62cHU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mzcgyk62cHU)
You're welcome...and um.... I know you Googled "binary alloy systems" and "eutectic composition" so if you don't mind can you give me the cliff notes version :P
I'll add/expand a bit on what has already been said
1) Soldering iron - if you can get a variable temp soldering iron for a good price, by all means invest in one. I was using a Weller 30W for the longest time, and while it did the job, I was blowing through tips at a pace that made it cost prohibitive (I was getting about three pedals per tip, and then had to change). Picked up a variable temp soldering iron for 10 Euro ($13), and I've soldered up 22 pedals without a single required tip change (I have changed the tip once, but only because the solder wasn't quite flowing right off the old tip).
2) Solder - once you find what works for you, stick to it. With the above mentioned soldering iron, I also bought some different solder, which should have been "better", because it was "higher quality". Didn't flow right, no matter what temp I set it too. Picked up a few scraps of my "old" solder to test, worked like a dream, promptly went out and bought two more rolls of the old stuff.
3) Desoldering iron - pumps and braids have already been covered, but if you can get your hands on a desoldering iron (essentially a hollow core soldering iron with a built in solder sucker), do it. It makes correcting the booboos much easier, and when you solder a dpdt to the wrong side of the PCB, you will be glad you have one.
4) Heat shrink tubing - put it on all your solder lug connections. Eliminates unwanted possible grounding issues, allows you to put items in tighter, and if you mess up, you can always cut it off.
5) Glasses - if you have prescription glasses, wear them (preferably an old pair), not so much for vision (although it helps), but for protection, otherwise, invest in a pair of safety glasses. Hot solder/resistor legs in the eyes are a bad thing.
6) Divorce saver - basically a desk mounted garbage receptable that you can cut your resistor legs/solder joints over to keep all those little chunks of joy from ending up in/on your feet. Also good for fly tying.
Quote from: GermanCdn on February 08, 2012, 03:50:12 PM
6) Divorce saver - basically a desk mounted garbage receptable that you can cut your resistor legs/solder joints over to keep all those little chunks of joy from ending up in/on your feet. Also good for fly tying.
+1 that crap hurts, I've been stab several times by resistor leads :)
Me too! I just moved and had to spent a TON of time vaccuming and picking out resistor leads from the carpet. At the new place I got a plastic office chair mat thing ( the thing for under office chairs) to make clean up alot easier.
I actually do all my soldering on a car mat I got at Auto Zone. It has the slots so 99% of those leads fall down in the slots...pick it up over a trash can and shake. Of course when I clip I don't clip in such a way where I'm playing tiddly winks and the leads are flung into the air 5 feet or more ;D