Been a while since I've boxed anything up and I have encountered a new issue that is driving me nuts. I also don't have much in the way of equipment where I'm at right now.
Everything seems to be wired up correctly but I'm getting no sound even in bypass. Yellow wire is in, green out. Both jacks are wired to ground. What did I mess up?
Are the lumberg's wired backward?
Best I can figure I might have a bad switch.
The wiring is atrocious.
The wiring looks like it should work.
If you're stuck without a multimeter at the moment, you could probably make up a continuity tester with an LED, resistor, battery and a few wires, that way you could have a hunt around to see if you've got a short to ground somewhere.
Sigh, I don't have an led either.
There should be a wire going from the board to the top left lug of the bypass switch. You have nothing at all soldered there.
Quote from: skyled on May 17, 2020, 05:25:59 AM
There should be a wire going from the board to the top left lug of the bypass switch. You have nothing at all soldered there.
Don't have a bypass led so no need
I'm wondering if you could rig up a continuity tester using your tongue. That might be exciting. ;-)
If you have a few spare bits of wire, you could probably rule out or confirm a ground short.
Hot wire it across from the tip of each jack, and the sleeve of each jack, when plugged in. If you still get no signal, then there is definitely a ground short somewhere.
If you do get a signal with your hot wires in place, then you can rule out a ground short, and the problem is going to be either your wiring or the switch.
You can test the switch - hot wire across from the middle to bottom lugs, and if that starts working, but it doesn't without those wires, then the switch might be to blame.
Is the input or output shorted to ground somewhere? Can you loosen the jacks and see if you get signal through then?
Quote from: cooder on May 17, 2020, 07:14:07 AM
Is the input or output shorted to ground somewhere? Can you loosen the jacks and see if you get signal through then?
I'd guess ground, too. It's hard to see where all the ground wires end up, but i'd guess the input jack?? Might be a good idea to remove the jack and sand away the powder coat.
Quote from: Bio77 on May 17, 2020, 07:46:18 AM
Quote from: cooder on May 17, 2020, 07:14:07 AM
Is the input or output shorted to ground somewhere? Can you loosen the jacks and see if you get signal through then?
I'd guess ground, too. It's hard to see where all the ground wires end up, but i'd guess the input jack?? Might be a good idea to remove the jack and sand away the powder coat.
This. Is the input jack "in" solder joints touching the enclosure? It's hard to tell, could be an illusion.
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Ground the output jack, maybe. The drill hole may be coated with paint preventing the jack insert from contacting metal - so no ground.
Quote from: madbean on May 17, 2020, 03:05:12 PM
Ground the output jack, maybe. The drill hole may be coated with paint preventing the jack insert from contacting metal - so no ground.
Usually this just means noisy, though.
My guess is that something is shorting to ground. It could just be the jack sneakily touching the enclosure, or it could be a bad jack (or cable ...).
It it were my build with those symptoms, I'd double check to make sure my guitar was really plugged into it with the volume above zero. This has actually been a cause of "no sound" problems for me on a couple occasions.
Thanks guys, haven't gotten back to it yet, it is killing my OCD.
I drew a diagram of how the ground is wired just to make sure it was all fine and I think it should be. I had already wired both jacks to ground to eliminate that possibility.
I think I might make a audio probe with a cap and an old guitar cable and work backwards from the output lug of the switch.
I kind of think the problem is the switch, but who knows at this point. To many new variables to me, new iron, new solder, different wire (cheap) wire than the stuff at smallbear, and the fact that this is the first board I tried to design myself. come to think of it I should disconnect the ground from that and make sure that isn't were the problem is, though I was careful to run the checks in Eagle.
I hate trying to figure out switch wiring, so I always just follow this visual aid, right down to the wire colors (whenever possible):
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_gi_dcj.pdf (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_gi_dcj.pdf)
If you have access to a soldering iron, just undo everything and follow that schematic. If it still doesn't work, you have a partially or fully malfunctioning switch, which is certainly possible. I recently had one of these blue 3PDT switches go bad and I had to take it apart to get it to work again. It's a pain to get them apart, so it might not be worth it if you have access to another switch.
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 17, 2020, 10:36:07 PM
Thanks guys, haven't gotten back to it yet, it is killing my OCD.
I drew a diagram of how the ground is wired just to make sure it was all fine and I think it should be. I had already wired both jacks to ground to eliminate that possibility.
I think I might make a audio probe with a cap and an old guitar cable and work backwards from the output lug of the switch.
I kind of think the problem is the switch, but who knows at this point. To many new variables to me, new iron, new solder, different wire (cheap) wire than the stuff at smallbear, and the fact that this is the first board I tried to design myself. come to think of it I should disconnect the ground from that and make sure that isn't were the problem is, though I was careful to run the checks in Eagle.
But if it were the stomp, I would think you would either have effected sound only or bypass only unless it's lug 8 with the issue. It would have to be defective, you'd still have one or the other. Have a look at that input jack.
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You can short the switch with a resistor lead or wire, to test out your theory. Reading your OP, it is weird that you don't get any signal in the off position.
Thanks everybody.
Problem solved. I started to unbox it tonight to check the connections and notice that as I took out the output jack the lug it connected to on the footswitch jostled around a bit. Plugged it all up and sure enough everything would cut in and out if I moved that lug around. I bypassed the switch and everything seems to work fine now other than the fact that it's always on. Didn't put in an LED so I suppose I could shift the columns over to the left and pretend its a DPDT. Surprise I didn't catch it earlier.
Feel pretty good about having created the layout and the fact that it actually works.
Cool, good to hear you got it working.
Choice, great you found the spanner in the works. And nice to get a layout going after those gremlins in there.
Knew it had to be something simple. Half the time those are the hardest to find because you're looking right at it.
Quote from: gordo on May 18, 2020, 04:07:47 PM
Knew it had to be something simple. Half the time those are the hardest to find because you're looking right at it.
I can't imagine what you're talking about......(https://media0.giphy.com/media/fCTsyu73GrBiZAkKwy/giphy.gif)
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