Hey all:
Another basic question: how do people typically cut stripboard down to size? I've got a new board that I'm trying to size for a build, and was curious if there were any quick, tried and true ways to trim stripboard. I've used an exacto knife for perfboard in the past, but that was time-consuming and not sure it would work in this case.
Thanks for any tips!
George
I use a black sharpie to outline the size of the board I need. I then use a knife to make cuts(just like the ones that are required in the tracks on the board) along the black sharpie lines. Then it snaps apart pretty easily.
I'll use a metal straight edge and box cutter to score each side a few times and then snap it. You don't have to go all the way through, but you do have to give multiple cuts in the same space. If you cut across the holes, and not the space in between the holes, it should come apart fairly well and you can clean up the rough edges with some sandpaper.
Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I must be working with a thicker than normal stripboard, because it's taking a long time to score this bad boy. I've used a box cutter to make the cuts, but it's not snapping off very easily.
Quote from: GeorgeFormanGrill on May 06, 2021, 01:13:02 PM
Awesome. Thanks for the tips. I must be working with a thicker than normal stripboard, because it's taking a long time to score this bad boy. I've used a box cutter to make the cuts, but it's not snapping off very easily.
You'll flub a few, for sure. Some people describe being able to just make light cuts and snap it like magic. That's never been my experience, but I don't use it often and am still new to this. Make sure you have a sharp blade. Once you cut enough pieces you'll get the feel for it. But yeah, you're going to ruin a few for sure while getting your bearings.
Cool. Good advice. Thanks. I'm also a slow learner.
Any tips for how to make cuts? I've seen some people drill a hole first and then cut by hand. Do you use an exacto to make the cut on the board?
Use a cutting board or a surface of some sort, you will cut yourself if you don't. Don't ask me how I know...
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Sometimes I just use a cheap pair of angle cutter the next row over across the holes. It's quick and dirty, but it gets the job done. Scoring is cleaner.
As for making the trace cuts, I use a drill bit that's slightly larger than the traces to gently cut a at the copper. Just place tip of the bit it in the hole and give it a gentle twist. Just remember to make the cuts the mirror of the layout. The layouts are parts side up so the cuts are on the other side. I think people drill through to make sure they do them in the correct spots.
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 06, 2021, 01:50:21 PM
Sometimes I just use a cheap pair of angle cutter the next row over across the holes. It's quick and dirty, but it gets the job done. Scorning and bending is cleaner.
As for making the trace cuts, I use a drill bit that's slightly larger than the traces to gently cut a at the copper. Just place it in the hole and give it a gentle twist. Just remember to make the cuts the mirror of the layout. The layouts are parts side up so the cuts are on the other side. I think people drill through to make sure they do them in the correct spots.
It starts turning into fabrication if I have to use power tools....[emoji12]
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Quote from: jimilee on May 06, 2021, 01:51:43 PM
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 06, 2021, 01:50:21 PM
Sometimes I just use a cheap pair of angle cutter the next row over across the holes. It's quick and dirty, but it gets the job done. Scorning and bending is cleaner.
As for making the trace cuts, I use a drill bit that's slightly larger than the traces to gently cut a at the copper. Just place it in the hole and give it a gentle twist. Just remember to make the cuts the mirror of the layout. The layouts are parts side up so the cuts are on the other side. I think people drill through to make sure they do them in the correct spots.
It starts turning into fabrication if I have to use power tools....[emoji12]
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Oh wait, I didn't mean angle cutter. I meant component lead cutter.
Quote from: GeorgeFormanGrill on May 06, 2021, 01:40:43 PM
Cool. Good advice. Thanks. I'm also a slow learner.
Any tips for how to make cuts? I've seen some people drill a hole first and then cut by hand. Do you use an exacto to make the cut on the board?
I use a power drill with a 3/32 bit. It takes *very* light pressure, or else you'll drill through the entire thing before you know it. I think you could get away with just the bit but, you know... I bought this damn drill and I'm going to get my money's worth from it! ;D
Awesome. Thanks for the advice.
Does anyone have a pic of what their cuts look like after they've used a drill bit? Trying to gauge how much is too little (and too much).
Quote from: GeorgeFormanGrill on May 06, 2021, 02:06:50 PM
Awesome. Thanks for the advice.
Does anyone have a pic of what their cuts look like after they've used a drill bit? Trying to gauge how much is too little (and too much).
Here's one I started but never got back to working on.
Nice! Thanks. I'm not too far off then. Back to work...
Dustmask, hacksaw or Dremel with a fibre reinforced cutoff wheel.
dave
Yeah, I've also used the Dremel if I want to be neat, or a pair of old pliers if I don't want to go out to the shed.
Dave is absolutely right, if you use a dremel make sure to use a mask, those particles will distort your lungs.
I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that. Bend and break.
Quote from: Willybomb on May 07, 2021, 02:26:42 AM
I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that. Bend and break.
Oh, that is smart! Bet it makes the builds a lot easier too.
Tin snips. It's a bit overkill but you don't need good ones and you can make irregular shaped cuts as well.
I've done a bunch of vero builds over the years and here is how I cut to size and make drills and jumpers.
Cut to size
I measure one row and column out. So, if it is a 10 x 12 I measure 11 x 13 and cut down the middle of the extra row and column. I use a box cutter and metal ruler and score each side 4 or 5 times. Then I snap it with a pair of pliers and file the edges smooth.
I find that measuring the extra row and column gives me not only a straight line to score with the holes but extra "oops" room...just in case.
Jumpers
Save the first few leads that you cut off from the resistors or caps. These make great jumpers for the non copper side of the boards. They are nice and small and sit pretty flat on the board.
I find that wire is sometimes too bulky and gets in the way if you want a nice clean pcb. Also sometimes the stripped wire is a little too thick after you tin the wire for the jumper. At least you know the trimmed leads fit through the holes.
Drills / cuts
I honestly use a drill bit to make these. I do it by hand and usually test both sides of the trace with a multimeter. This is tedious but it's how I first started doing cuts on vero. Plus it give you a nice even circular cut. I don't go all the way through, just enough to cut the trace.
Other tips and tricks
Vero can be VERY frustrating if you don't take your time and pay attention to detail. It is easy to connect traces and not even know it. Make sure that the ends of the runs are not touching at the edge of the board. Also it's a good idea to run your razor (box cutter) down the space in between the copper runs. I do this a few times to make sure there are no unwanted solder bridges. I also run the tip of my iron down the same space just in case. One more thing...the less solder the better. Big globs are never your friend. If you do have a big glob on there it's better to use you solder wick or pump and pull all the excess of and then reapply a little dab. Trust me, take the time it will save you many head aches.
Anyway hope my long winded, misspelled reply helps. ;-)
-Mike-
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Quote from: Matmosphere on May 07, 2021, 02:34:01 AM
Quote from: Willybomb on May 07, 2021, 02:26:42 AM
I glue the proper scaled vero layout to the veroboard, and score the vero around that. Bend and break.
Oh, that is smart! Bet it makes the builds a lot easier too.
Oh yeah, I went from probably 50/50 chance of working first go, to something more like 95% working first go. I mean, have a look at this one!
That's some hardcore offboard wiring. I like it.
Thanks willybomb, such a cool idea. I think I'll try it next time.
And yeah, that is some serious off board wiring. I don't envy that.
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 13, 2021, 09:43:59 AM
Thanks willybomb, such a cool idea. I think I'll try it next time.
And yeah, that is some serious off board wiring. I don't envy that.
Right, he could wire about 3 or 4 more pedals with that wire.
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