I am working on making a few boxes ready to print and populate with projects.
This could become a regular thing I do, I could also create a physical drill guide that can be easy to handle, possibly be reused for other projects or even mixed and matched for a more customized experience.
No one is downloading these yet, but I'll keep adding them as I make them for my projects.
Post edited to remove bloat no longer relevant.
Pinning file links and attachments here.
SlowLoris2020 : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871463
Fireaxe : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4882399
If you download the .zip files on the shop page it usually has the .psd file for the layout. I have used it in the past to create faceplates in tinkered. What I found is easiest (because I am old school) is printing the drill guide from the BOM and using calipers to measure everything, then taking those measurements into tinkered to make a faceplate. It works very well; in fact the biggest issue is the faceplates are sometimes more precise than my drilling.
totally interested to see what you come up with. I really enjoy exploring the possible intersection of 3d printing and pedal building. I've done a half dozen or so faceplates and they look very nice, so it would be cool to try a full enclosure with artwork right on it
Maybe even fully shielded boxes. https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/ (https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/)
Quote from: Ben N on May 18, 2021, 04:12:05 AM
Maybe even fully shielded boxes. https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/ (https://3dprinting.com/3d-printing-use-cases/conductive-materials-for-3d-printing/)
Can use copper conductive tape and would likely have better results, I have printed a few boxes and none have had any issue yet.
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 18, 2021, 02:35:23 AM
totally interested to see what you come up with. I really enjoy exploring the possible intersection of 3d printing and pedal building. I've done a half dozen or so faceplates and they look very nice, so it would be cool to try a full enclosure with artwork right on it
I like this idea, but I am crap at designing anything artistic in cad XD
Quote from: Matmosphere on May 18, 2021, 02:33:42 AM
If you download the .zip files on the shop page it usually has the .psd file for the layout. I have used it in the past to create faceplates in tinkered. What I found is easiest (because I am old school) is printing the drill guide from the BOM and using calipers to measure everything, then taking those measurements into tinkered to make a faceplate. It works very well; in fact the biggest issue is the faceplates are sometimes more precise than my drilling.
I'll check it out, might be able to get accurate measurements for hole placement.
I think this will do for positioning my extruded cuts on the 125B model I have, posting it so Brian can take a peek at what I am doing.
The holes may end up .1mm off, but thats easy to fix with printed boxes.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/0accyzd7ba1qbjb/SLoris2020_HoleMap.png?raw=1)
Went ahead and designed up a prototype, used center line where possible.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871463
Zip also attached.
Update:
Holes turned out ok, a little smaller than designed, but stepper bit by hand glides through PLA like it's not there and the fitment...
To quote an actor I've lost all respect for 'Like a glove!'.
Moving attachment to first post.
This is too cool. I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal. Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top. Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.
Quote from: gordo on May 27, 2021, 03:47:39 PM
This is too cool. I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal. Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top. Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.
Thanks, hope it can be useful, figured I'm making them for myself might as well share.
My nozzle doesn't do text very well, I'm running a .6 on a volcano nozzle and printing at .4 layer height for speed.
I can add text, but it would have to be raised for me to know if it came out decent, also only have one color to print with and not much luck in the past swapping during a print so I just use paint. XD
When I do the box for the FireAxe I'll add raised text.
Quote from: gordo on May 27, 2021, 03:47:39 PM
This is too cool. I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal. Now if you integrate the labels, like an etch, into the top. Even in a monochrome scheme it would look very slick.
Prototype is good to go.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/l3kovoug9vuz86h/071F67F3-35FF-4DF7-A3BD-BC3DF8D5F058.jpeg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/i0m3rid4awjersc/352D891E-001F-4274-B76E-43ED2A8C9D59.jpeg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3m65hbm485u1kx/E17FEAD8-5C3C-4894-97FE-3F6B09AC5CA7.jpeg?raw=1)
!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!
Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.
Quote from: matthew.raiteri@gmail.com on May 28, 2021, 02:45:52 AM
!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!
Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.
Face down and ironing is on, so the inside is nicely textured and smooth, that would make contact with shielding tape would definitely have a good mounting surface.
The holes in the print are the first layer only, which leads me to these next thoughts.
While it didn't warp, my first layer isn't perfect and the areas you can visually see, can be felt.
Still haven't shimmed it to get a good tram on the bed, but I think if I used the center as my starting point when leveling I could get it to negate the cupping of the bed.
Creality it seems never did get the bed manufacturing down and if I had the money, I'd take it to a machine shop, have them straighten or make me a new aluminum bed with added center support.
Quote from: redkurn on May 28, 2021, 07:40:28 PM
Quote from: matthew.raiteri@gmail.com on May 28, 2021, 02:45:52 AM
!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!
Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.
Face down and ironing is on, so the inside is nicely textured and smooth, that would make contact with shielding tape would definitely have a good mounting surface.
The holes in the print are the first layer only, which leads me to these next thoughts.
While it didn't warp, my first layer isn't perfect and the areas you can visually see, can be felt.
Still haven't shimmed it to get a good tram on the bed, but I think if I used the center as my starting point when leveling I could get it to negate the cupping of the bed.
Creality it seems never did get the bed manufacturing down and if I had the money, I'd take it to a machine shop, have them straighten or make me a new aluminum bed with added center support.
I was working on that the other day. I think the dip has to do with the magnetic bed, not the aluminum bed itself. The magnetic build plate has an adhesive layer that attaches to the aluminum plate. I think the dip is in that middle layer, and probably has to do with it not being installed well. Mine doesn't have a huge dip but it's there.
It might also have to do with that layer being the weak point with the heating, but I'm not sure.
I've considered trying a glass build plate, but I'm not ready to pry off that middle layer yet. The magnetic plate is just too easy to use.
Quote from: matthew.raiteri@gmail.com on May 29, 2021, 12:54:29 AM
I was working on that the other day. I think the dip has to do with the magnetic bed, not the aluminum bed itself. The magnetic build plate has an adhesive layer that attaches to the aluminum plate. I think the dip is in that middle layer, and probably has to do with it not being installed well. Mine doesn't have a huge dip but it's there.
It might also have to do with that layer being the weak point with the heating, but I'm not sure.
I've considered trying a glass build plate, but I'm not ready to pry off that middle layer yet. The magnetic plate is just too easy to use.
It's definitely in the aluminum, take a ruler and go across the whole bed and you will see light where it dips.
I'm using a self leveling setting which I am basically programming a mesh by leveling and adjusting 21-25 points on my cr-10s and from there it automatically corrects to a degree, but from my first layer it isn't perfect.
I'm using cura, switched from simplify3d... my initial printing temperature and printing temperature inital layer is 195c and printing temperature is 200c, my initial layer flow is 115%, flow is set to 96%.
Those numbers won't work perfect for you, but it's a good starting point.
I also followed everything I could on this page:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html
The only thing to do after following that page and using the tools he provided is get a really good level and for that I am using a feeler gauge, .1mm.
So if I'm looking to get into a printer for minimal $$ but good usability, what should I be looking for?
Have you done any stomp tests yet?
Quote from: gordo on May 29, 2021, 12:57:42 PM
So if I'm looking to get into a printer for minimal $$ but good usability, what should I be looking for?
Depends on how big you want to print and how much you want to spend.
Creality has a great following with lots of info and help out there, but when it comes down to it all printers are generally the same.
The differences are the problems they have, at the moment lots of people have been having issues with the new mainboards and power supply on creality printers, I know the X5SA from tronxy had some issues due to the material used to hold it together, which the pro version solved, it was my pick, but I was advised to get a CR-10S and bought it used with all the modifications for $500. Mine is a CR-10S Super 300.
I love this printer enough to tweak and make changes, but if you wanted to print smaller items I'd say find a nice stock used ender 3 pro on offerup or get a v2, but be sure to be prepared to replace the power supply or mainboard, the support from the company isn't great since they only send a few lines at a time in english, if you speak chinese it may help?
Another thing to remember is do not order a Creality from the fake website, use this one.
This is who sold mine, they go over them and make sure they are perfect! https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/
I believe this to be the real website. https://www.creality.com/
AVOID!
creality3d.shop
You could go expensive and get a hardly ever changed design from Prusa, but I don't think there would be much difference in quality for the cost, especially when you can upgrade and easily achieve excellent results.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/17-3d-printers
There is a learning curve, my first printer was a XYZ DaVinci 1.0A and I had to print several mods to make it worth owning, including formulating a way to bypass the the little card that made the printer stop working, the way around it was make a stand for the card and place the card from the spool into it, use cura to print and only cura.
The stock software was garbage anyway.
I would have to strongly recommend a Creality Ender 3 or CR-10S, lots of support andcommunity made modifications that make the printer more viable and produce excellent prints, definitely look for one with an all metal extruder, the plastic ones tend to break.
My CR-10S has a Aero direct drive and Volcano nozzle, if I posted a picture of it, you would see it is Creality, but looks quite a bit different.
Quote from: Aentons on May 29, 2021, 01:08:31 PM
Have you done any stomp tests yet?
I haven't dropped my foot on it as hard as I can, but it can survive as long as you aren't extremely heavy footed and aggressive with it.
My print is solid with no infill, so it should be durable enough to take a few stomps, if I changed to ABS or Nylon it would be able to take more abuse.
You can really stiffen it up by taking a small brush and "paint" acetone on the print. Don't glob it on. It will really smooth up the print and strengthen it.
Quote from: PapaKev on May 29, 2021, 06:28:50 PM
You can really stiffen it up by taking a small brush and "paint" acetone on the print. Don't glob it on. It will really smooth up the print and strengthen it.
Only works with ABS, PLA doesn't have the same reaction and as far as I know only ABS has that reaction.
Quote from: redkurn on May 29, 2021, 06:31:23 PM
Quote from: PapaKev on May 29, 2021, 06:28:50 PM
You can really stiffen it up by taking a small brush and "paint" acetone on the print. Don't glob it on. It will really smooth up the print and strengthen it.
Only works with ABS, PLA doesn't have the same reaction and as far as I know only ABS has that reaction.
I've only used PLA. Have never used ABS
Quote from: PapaKev on May 29, 2021, 06:47:06 PM
Quote from: redkurn on May 29, 2021, 06:31:23 PM
Quote from: PapaKev on May 29, 2021, 06:28:50 PM
You can really stiffen it up by taking a small brush and "paint" acetone on the print. Don't glob it on. It will really smooth up the print and strengthen it.
Only works with ABS, PLA doesn't have the same reaction and as far as I know only ABS has that reaction.
I've only used PLA. Have never used ABS
I lied. I used ABS....Been to long since I messed with it.
I read something a long time ago about baking pla at a low temp in the oven to harden it. I've never tried it though. I think it's tricky though because if the oven gets too hot the whole print will turn into a puddle.
Quote from: matthew.raiteri@gmail.com on May 30, 2021, 12:51:44 AM
I read something a long time ago about baking pla at a low temp in the oven to harden it. I've never tried it though. I think it's tricky though because if the oven gets too hot the whole print will turn into a puddle.
That and I would imagine hardening it would have the same effect as steel, too hard and it becomes brittle.
At the moment it has enough elasticity to provide some give, but not bend or break.
This is my third stomp box, but I also made a switch box to route audio to my amp and I made it thicker because the jacks I used are low quality and really grip a patch cable.
Working on a box for the fireaxe, not sure how well the font will show yet.
I tried adding a flame graphic, but the only way it can show is to cut into the box or stick out like the font and it was pretty ugly even after meticulously tracing the image.
Someone who can paint would have a better chance, I can photoshop, but this is a new level. XD
I might have better luck if I printed at a lower layer height, or made some other slight print setting changes, but I am going to try the recessed version and I'll post a pic.
What do you guys think?
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/56mh4uyh75f4exd/fireaxe-pre.png?raw=1)
Printing this cleanly is going to be a challenge, I might invert the text and see how it goes...
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/gh4n5br975dsuzd/fireaxe-recessed-pre.png?raw=1)
Edit: Looks good in theory, but my print didn't come out great. Might want to pursue the embossed print...
For the curious, these are the settings I am going to try printing with.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/06c8uwdfa5nnx8o/cura-setting.png?raw=1 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/06c8uwdfa5nnx8o/cura-setting.png?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/06c8uwdfa5nnx8o/cura-setting.png?raw=1)
Quote from: matmosphere on May 28, 2021, 02:45:52 AM
!!!!!That's awesome!!!!!
Nicely done. Did you print it face down? If so you have your bottoms layer better sorted than I do.
Thought you might like a little printer pinup. XD
My printer, yes that duct pointing up is exhausting from the heat sink, the aero doesn't get hot like stock and this helped my prints a lot. No heat creep. :D
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/e2qo4n53t7oqhyr/ABC148C7-51DC-4560-A053-8305EC5DA2D1.jpeg?raw=1)
Fireaxe box should be discarded as a failure, but... May as well use it and print a test face and if that works I can transplant it.
Beware of the ugly.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/d9cjmxrt67tef5t/F9E6CDA3-8C5C-433E-8F7C-CF68E78C5512.jpeg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/zpqm8s13hwuqle1/5074B2ED-CBF8-4638-B45D-5B317266BC8A.jpeg?raw=1)
Yeah, i think if you print the box face down, which is the only way to go really, you would still have to probably do a faceplate for the lettering/artwork. The last thing I'd want to deal with is picking support material out of those tiny spaces. I have thought of trying this and having the bottom plate be the face of the pedal to simplify things.. other than wiring.
I have done some artwork with a .6 nozzle, but the lines have to be pretty thick. Fonts matter, the more blocky the better, anything with a universal width for each part of the letter is a lot easier to work with. Size of the text makes a huge difference as well. I've found with a .4 most letters are fine at a reasonable size, but a few have small gaps that won't print. I got some great detail going to a .2 but the print was painfully slow. I try to stick with .4 or .3 when I need to.
If you use the preview feature in Cura and look closely it will actually grey out any spots that will not print due to the nozzle size.
Quote from: matmosphere on June 01, 2021, 03:47:58 AM
Yeah, i think if you print the box face down, which is the only way to go really, you would still have to probably do a faceplate for the lettering/artwork. The last thing I'd want to deal with is picking support material out of those tiny spaces. I have thought of trying this and having the bottom plate be the face of the pedal to simplify things.. other than wiring.
I have done some artwork with a .6 nozzle, but the lines have to be pretty thick. Fonts matter, the more blocky the better, anything with a universal width for each part of the letter is a lot easier to work with. Size of the text makes a huge difference as well. I've found with a .4 most letters are fine at a reasonable size, but a few have small gaps that won't print. I got some great detail going to a .2 but the print was painfully slow. I try to stick with .4 or .3 when I need to.
If you use the preview feature in Cura and look closely it will actually grey out any spots that will not print due to the nozzle size.
I think I have a smaller nozzle, ordered a few a while back when I replaced the bent throat and aluminum block, switched those to titanium throat (if I recall) and a copper block, was setting up to print abrasive materials.
I may need to switch, but I prefer speed over layer lines and usually don't print anything that I can't use for a purpose lately. Now that I'm thinking about it, pretty sure I have a 1mm nozzle as well, box would probably print in a hour vs the 2.5 it takes now. XD
I've been working on a solution to the issues of printing text on a box that needs to print top down...
Going back to a suggestion of making face plates that can be added later, I decided to drop the box -2mm into the bed and print that 2mm and the lid separate from the box.
It can be glued on later or interchangeable if you wish...
Doing a test print of that now with the text embossed, if it works out I'll add to the main post a zip containing all the files and options I've currently made, maybe someone else will have better luck with a smaller nozzle and the recessed text.
Changed the font a bit, made it bigger, and decided from testing the embossed version was the best to go with.
You can print it however you see fit, I would suggest placing the text upright and using supports as I couldn't get cura to add supports as I would normally print this, also tried printing it in sections, but I had warping issues even though the font came out pretty nice for my nozzle size.