Yes, it's the first version of the board.
Actually this is the second I made, as I discovered the problems with the original one, and helped Brian to sort them out using Juansolo's clone which uses a copy of the original's PCB.
The first one I tried to retrofit the changes required, and it resulted in burned up pads, noise, and a sadly non-working board. This one had the changes I came up with done before any components were fitted, and it works like it should.
I don't recommend trying to do the mods now that Brian has sent out the replacement PCBs (which I've also built, and it works perfectly), but anyone feeling brave can send me a message, and I'll let you know what butchery I've done to the board. I've noticed I need a different resistor in R21 than the new version, and Juansolo's has a different one again. Odd, maybe the power supply sags or something on the others, and this one using a regulator is rock solid, but they can be made to sound the same, none of them are like the original schematic regarding R21.
Thanks go to Juansolo for the decal, its a scaled down version from his original build.
(http://www.maccentral.demon.co.uk/pedals/dipthang-1.jpg)
(http://www.maccentral.demon.co.uk/pedals/dipthang-2.jpg)
Very sweet, and thanks again for helping me get the changes sorted out. Yours looks clean and amazing!
I actually did write down the list of mods needed for the first board to make it work, but as you seemed to have found it's a real big PITA. Several small but impactful mistakes made it not worth even posting, IMO.
Then again, I probably have 60 or so of the bad boards, and not the heart to throw them away.
Another note about R21: I did find a range of values that worked, as you suggested in your PM. They produce ever so slightly different results. I actually like this in a way since it gives you a little leeway to experiment. 2k is what I stuck with in mine.
Quote from: madbean on February 11, 2012, 12:03:01 PM
Very sweet, and thanks again for helping me get the changes sorted out. Yours looks clean and amazing!
I actually did write down the list of mods needed for the first board to make it work, but as you seemed to have found it's a real big PITA. Several small but impactful mistakes made it not worth even posting, IMO.
Then again, I probably have 60 or so of the bad boards, and not the heart to throw them away.
Another note about R21: I did find a range of values that worked, as you suggested in your PM. They produce ever so slightly different results. I actually like this in a way since it gives you a little leeway to experiment. 2k is what I stuck with in mine.
This one has an 8.2k, the new one has a 2k. A 2k in this has too much attack, its weird. The power requirements are the same, only that the 10V and 5V are produced by the regulator, and not the zener combo in the original and your new revision.
I did notice that the vowel switch works backwards in the new version, I assume moving which connections were used made the layout easier.
Very tidy build! I have to check out some demos of this
Nice work 8)
This is a long shot but, I wonder if small variations in the forward voltage of all those 1n914s could lead to the discrepancy in different R21 values?
Maybe it's worth mentioning modding it for a pot. I think you actually suggested that at one point.
Quote from: nzCdog on February 11, 2012, 12:49:26 PM
Very tidy build! I have to check out some demos of this
Nice work 8)
+1! This one looks great and I would love to hear what this circuit sounds like!
Sounds absolutely awesome in some settings, but it's really not a helpful demo because you can't see how the knobs are set and have no idea how the guitar/amp influences the sound. Also, I have a hard time listening to this demo because his playing style really annoys me.
Can you also get these sounds with your Honeydripper into the clean channel of your amp?
Not to derail, but I will definitely get a demo done of mine for the forum. The only hold-up is I f'd up my drill spacings and put the jacks in a really bad spot. But, I think I can fix that and get it wired up.
That is such a great layout!! I really like how well the pcb fits in the enclosure, making it all look very tidy in the end. Bravo
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on February 13, 2012, 08:46:04 AM
That is such a great layout!! I really like how well the pcb fits in the enclosure, making it all look very tidy in the end. Bravo
It's very, very tight!
It needs one of the smaller size dc jacks to fit above the board. The rotary switch is deeper than a pot and makes the whole board much lower in the enclosure. Also a 3PDT wouldnt fit as the jacks are too close, so its got a DPDT with the millennium board. The jacks are also mounted close to the top, it gives the contacts room to move at 45 degrees, slightly under the edge of the board.
I've also got an Aquapuss ready to box up, and the layout is very similar, but can get away with a regular dc jack as there's room above the board. There's also a little more room for the stomp switch and jacks, but only 3 or 4mm.
The Dipthonizer is literally within 2 or 3mm in any dimension of needing a bigger enclosure. It was a challenge to get it in there, but it looks great, and is a quarter of the size of a real one.
Fortunately, the revised board is actually smaller, lengthwise. You gain an extra half inch or so at the top, which should make fitting a bit easier than this one.