Hi, I´ve built a Cosmopolitan and it does sound, but not very much. The bypass works but when you switch on the effect, the volume is barely the same (or even lowder) as when in bypass (with ALL knobs set to max.) It sounds a little fuzzier and cracked, and the sound is very muffled.
I´ve checked wiring, solder joints, Pot values,....
Tomorrow when i get my camera back i will post photos. I start this post today in case anyone has had the same problem and can help me
Check your transistor pinouts. Sometimes the base is not always in the middle pin. What transistors are you using? Maybe we can look for a datasheet.
-Kaleb
Quote from: k.rock! on March 29, 2012, 06:24:33 PM
Check your transistor pinouts. Sometimes the base is not always in the middle pin. What transistors are you using? Maybe we can look for a datasheet.
-Kaleb
BS170, BC109B and AC127
I´ve double checked them. I´m a little newbie in electronics so it could be wrong but I think the pinouts are ok, I´ve take for reference this page http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/tran.htm
The first time I connect the effect to the guitar the pinouts were back to front (I realized this later) Could I have burnt the transistors?
If it's not transistor pins (or the transistors themselves), check the values of R2, R3, R6 & R7 and confirm that they are Ohms and not Kilohms. A Kilohm value in R2, R3 or R7 would result in significantly less gain/volume. If that doesn't do it, yes, photos! Good luck!
I had the EXACT same problem with my cosmo and the great folks here noticed I has the wrong capacitor value in C2. Triple-check ALL of your cap and resistor values. It sounds like you have a wrong value somewhere.
You are going to love this pedal when you get sorted!
QuoteIf it's not transistor pins (or the transistors themselves), check the values of R2, R3, R6 & R7 and confirm that they are Ohms and not Kilohms. A Kilohm value in R2, R3 or R7 would result in significantly less gain/volume. If that doesn't do it, yes, photos! Good luck!
All values are ok checked by code and multimeter.
Quote from: pryde on March 29, 2012, 08:29:13 PM
I had the EXACT same problem with my cosmo and the great folks here noticed I has the wrong capacitor value in C2. Triple-check ALL of your cap and resistor values. It sounds like you have a wrong value somewhere.
You are going to love this pedal when you get sorted!
I´ve read you thread before posting this and double checked the values. Now triple checked it and all values seem to be correct. Maybe I am missing something because its true thats you problem is really similar.
EDIT: In my case the only pot that is working properly is volume. Gain rises the volume and a little gain in the last seventh of the turn. All the other pots seems to change slightly the sound.
Sorry for the poor english, I´m getting more crazy trying to explain my problem than trying to resolve it. :)
Photos!
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7039/dsc1354g.jpg)
(http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/4397/dsc1357o.jpg)
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1875/dsc1360y.jpg)
(http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/7412/dsc1352x.jpg)
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6749/dsc1353y.jpg)
(http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/3039/dsc1365l.jpg)
Tell me if you need a photo of any specific part
It looks like you have a .001uf for c11 instead of.100uf that's the 1st thing I saw I'll keep looking. and can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?
c15 appears to be the same and c5 looks like a .022 instead of .220. I am gonna check the codes to be sure.
u1=0,1uF , isn´t it?
Quote from: cjkbug on March 30, 2012, 01:33:16 PM
And can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?
Ok, i´ll try but it´s difficult with the mounted pots.
Thanks for reply :)
http://www.wima.de/EN/marking.htm
Also I've never seen a zener diode that looks like that the ones I usually get are the orange glass types.
The codes on your wimas look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf. I had a hard time understanding them at first. basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.
Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.
Quote from: 2tonewarrior on March 30, 2012, 01:45:04 PM
u1=0,1uF , isn´t it?
Quote from: cjkbug on March 30, 2012, 01:33:16 PM
And can we get some closeups of the whole solder side?
Ok, i´ll try but it´s difficult with the mounted pots.
Thanks for reply :)
1uf boxs caps are a lot bigger than that and would still be the wrong value
Quote from: cjkbug on March 30, 2012, 01:50:24 PM
Also I've never seen a zener diode that looks like that the ones I usually get are the orange glass types.
The codes on your wimas look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf. I had a hard time understanding them at first. basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.
Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.
This is my zener diode http://www.banzaimusic.com/9-1V-Zener-Diode-5W.html, as a noob I ordered the 5W version ::) but it should work well, shouldn´t it?
According to this web http://www.wima.de/EN/marking.htm:
u1k63 = 0,1uF - Tolerance=10%(k) - 63V
Quote from: cjkbug on March 30, 2012, 01:50:24 PM
The codes on your wimas look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf. I had a hard time understanding them at first. basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.
Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.
Sorry, but you're off with the capacitor codes. u1 = 0.1uF, K = 10% tolerance, 63 = 63V.
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/2968/dsc1374c.jpg)
(http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/2599/dsc1377s.jpg)
Thanks for all your pictures, but as mentioned already you need to change out the capacitors for the correct values. Let us know what it's like after you've done that.
Jacob
I got lost. What capacitors are wrong?
Quote from: mgwhit on March 30, 2012, 02:07:06 PM
Quote from: cjkbug on March 30, 2012, 01:50:24 PM
The codes on your wimas look to me like the values you used are off. I don't know how experianced you are so don't take it hard but I'm gonna see if I can find my conversion chart for pf nf uf. I had a hard time understanding them at first. basically 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf... it looks like your code 1k 63 would be 1k(1000) pf or 1n or .001uf with a maximum voltage rating of 63 volts.
Please someone weigh in if I am off track as I am not familiar with these particular codes. don't always assume the supplier put what you ordered in the little plastic bags. they screw up values all the time. it's pretty easily done.
Sorry, but you're off with the capacitor codes. u1 = 0.1uF, K = 10% tolerance, 63 = 63V.
I stand corrected
Sorry, I read that someone found some wrong values, didn't realize that had been in error. I'll take a closer look if I can later.
Jacob
You may have a bad solder joint somewhere. It doesn't look to my eye that the copper clad was cleaned with a scrubbing pad etc. Etched boards take more prep work for the solder to properly adhere. A bad joint may look good from the outside but it may just be "resting" on the copper and not melted to it.
I've had this experience with an etched fuzz face when I was starting out. It was an etched board and I was getting a signal but it was very weak. There were a few bad joints just resting on the copper. Once they were fixed by removing the solder and scuffing the copper pad then resoldering. It worked as it should.
To me it looks like you were having trouble getting the solder to wick to the copper. I base this off of the excess amount of solder at your joints. I could be wrong, it's just my observation.
Your best bet now is to take an audio probe and follow through the schematic, beginning at your input.
Good Luck! We've all had our share of troubleshooting headaches. ;)
Josh
QuoteYou may have a bad solder joint somewhere. It doesn't look to my eye that the copper clad was cleaned with a scrubbing pad etc. Etched boards take more prep work for the solder to properly adhere. A bad joint may look good from the outside but it may just be "resting" on the copper and not melted to it.
I've had this experience with an etched fuzz face when I was starting out. It was an etched board and I was getting a signal but it was very weak. There were a few bad joints just resting on the copper. Once they were fixed by removing the solder and scuffing the copper pad then resoldering. It worked as it should.
To me it looks like you were having trouble getting the solder to wick to the copper. I base this off of the excess amount of solder at your joints. I could be wrong, it's just my observation.
Your best bet now is to take an audio probe and follow through the schematic, beginning at your input.
Good Luck! We've all had our share of troubleshooting headaches.
Josh
You are probably right. I think I´m gonna remake the pcb. I think the solder joints are not the problem but the copper, it has a little dents because the etching mix was too hard. I was exciting about starting the project and went on because I thought that could be not a problem. As all values are right and all other things seems to be ok that could be the real problem.
Thanks all for your time and your help ;), when I´ll get the new PCB mounted I´ll return to show it (hope I will return with good news)
Good news everyone! I really hate desolder but in this case it was worth. Changed the PCB and sounds good now :)
Excellent!!!
Josh