(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4083/5197370338_942aa78053_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5196769629_dce8052030_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/5197370470_107e7ac4ff_b.jpg)
Sounds pretty wicked! The enclosure layout is a little unconventional and proved to be a challenge. Enclosure is transparent red from PPP.
Very cool man! Where do you get those green caps? Those are sweet. How do you get that tiny LED to stay put on the top? Nice build.
incredible! everything looks awesome. I love the resistors, caps, electrolytics, layout is super tight. great job.
Quote from: masterlk on November 22, 2010, 04:16:10 AM
Very cool man! Where do you get those green caps? Those are sweet. How do you get that tiny LED to stay put on the top? Nice build.
I got the elec caps at mouser.
data sheet: http://products.nichicon.co.jp/en/pdf/XJA043/e-es.pdf (http://products.nichicon.co.jp/en/pdf/XJA043/e-es.pdf)
Mouser part # 647-UES1V100MEM
The small led lead is mounted to the dpdt switch, it took a little trial and error but the mount is more stable than some of the pcb mounts I've done.
I also had to use some additional washers for the pots because I didn't like how the knobs were sticking out from the enclosure. I could have cut the shafts shorter, but I would have had to pull everything out and re case.
The only thing I'm not happy about are the x's in the font i used. It was stamped and you really couldn't tell until it was to late. It's permanent stanzon ink.
I might give a try on my first demo...we'll see. I know Mike did one for this with a bass (his wolfshirt build inspired mine btw) but I don't think anyone did one for guitar.
Lighter fluid removes Stazon ink.
+1 on the caps...what's the brand?
I really like the unusual layout.
Very cool! Love the electros!
Link to elec caps added in previous post. The 47uF is pretty big but I got it to fit, it wouldn't have in a 1590B.
Will lighter fluid eat the powdercoat?
I've used it on powder coat without problems. It's Acetone that eats finishes.
If you are unsure, try rubbing a small little bit into the bottom plate first. The LF will clear the ink, although there may be a small ink impression left (not noticeable a few inches away).
I do use LF to polish my finishes sometimes....it works well, and removes gunk.
Really nice look on this one. I like the layout, because you could mount it sideways on a pedalboard, OR you can mount it vertically. Both ways work, it's really useful that way.
I use Rubbing Alcohol instead of Acetone or lighter Fluid. You can get it at the drug store, it's also called denatured alcohol. I think it comes in 75% and 99% concentrations where I am, and I usually get the 'good' stuff.
Jacob
Dude! This pedal is absolutely fantastic! Definitely one of my favorites...I love everything about it, the finish, the cool layout, the lettering (which I must say I even like the big Xs, which you might have fixed by now :) ), the green caps and even those resistors which look like delicious little hot dogs haha
I'm very intrigued about the toggle switch deal...So you are able to use one switch or the other? How does it work? if you don't mind me asking...
Thanks!
-Kaleb
Thanks Kaleb,
The switch is to add the octave effect. It's really apparent at the 12th fret and above. You can get some cool nintendo like sounds as well. ;D
The pedal still has the same lettering with the big x's. I was to lazy to go back and fix it I guess. ;)
Josh
Nice! I'm not too informed on the Wolfshirt project so I was unaware about the octave switch. I think I got that impression after reading Jacob's post. That would be a very cool idea though. If you could put a switch like that on the top so that you could switch the effect on/off if it's sideways or just stomp it when laying flat :P
Something interesting about this circuit is that there's a significant cut in sound when you switch the octave effect on and off. It's not often built with that function on a stomp because people generally don't like the sound break. It's better to have it on a toggle, at least as most people have built it.
Jacob
this pedal looks great. You did a really clean job! i really like the layout inside and how you placed the knobs. I'm sure this is a ripping fuzz! Looks almost like the original except the slight variation with the switch and knobs ;D
I'm thinking about searching for some nice velvet to make mine. 8)
They're Nichicon caps.
I use the fancy gold versions in most of my pedals for corksniffer audiophile bragging rights or something. My Poindexter build is loaded with them.
Be careful of the top-of-the-range Nichicons as they're huuuuuuge. A 100uf cap is about 300mm tall!
I love the upper pots and the lettering ;)
300mm for a cap? Looks like you gonna drill the enclosure to let it breathe outside of the box ;D
Yes, some of those caps are huge!! They definitely won't work with some of the tight layouts. I see mammoth stocks these caps now. I honestly can say those caps really don't need to be in this build, but I liked how they looked. ;D Since I started buying caps in bulk, I haven't purchased these since. Their just to pricey to use for multiple builds, even at mammoths prices. But if I was building audiophile stuff, I'd buy them in a heartbeat! I need to dust this pedal off any play it a little, it's been living an easy life sitting on the shelf...
Josh
Quote from: jkokura on March 01, 2011, 09:30:36 PM
Something interesting about this circuit is that there's a significant cut in sound when you switch the octave effect on and off. It's not often built with that function on a stomp because people generally don't like the sound break. It's better to have it on a toggle, at least as most people have built it.
Jacob
I just ordered a pcb for this. Maybe i'll incorporate a trim pot to cut the volume slightly when the octave is off via the footswitch and dial it in for unity output.
I definitely want the octave effect on a footswitch, I have enough issues just switching on the fly with my feet as is. When I get it built up i'll play around with it and come up with a diagram.
cheers