Brian, is there a reason this can't be a single pole rotary? Looks like 1 node four throws. Am I missing something?
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
and to piggyback 1 more question about the mutron in here....how crucial are the 1n8 values c6 & c9? is 1n5 OK?
Quote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
Yeah, I don't think the prices are any different ... I just have both here.
Thanks. :)
Quote from: Haberdasher on October 26, 2012, 07:03:06 PM
and to piggyback 1 more question about the mutron in here....how crucial are the 1n8 values c6 & c9? is 1n5 OK?
In this case I'd say "moderately critical". It won't ruin the effect, obviously, but the values used are chosen to emulate vocal formants, I believe. You could put small ceramics in parallel with a 1n5...300pF or close to that.
1.5 makes it a little bright in the higher range settings, but it doesn't sound bad. Definitely loses some beef in the lowest range settings. I did brian's suggestion and just soldered some 300pF caps on the bottom of the board until my next parts order arrives.
This thing sounds great, Brian. Swirly, gigantic sweeps. The higher gain settings remind me of the organ in The Band's "Chest Fever."
Or even an (on on on) toggle.
(http://rickviola.com/images/FigH.jpg)
Good call. Personally, I do prefer the rotary in this case mainly cause I like having a chicken head knob on there :)
But, yeah, an OnOnOn should do the trick if you like toggles.
Ok, looks like the rotary switch isnt going to fit in my enclosure :-[ [I'm using an old VOX auto wah shell, those funky triangular things.The guyatone crossover box circuit that was in it really sounds terrible[ kindof a low-output Dr. Q + tone suck ;)] ,so I'm ok with altering this enclosure as it will be perfect for the Mutron III!]
I think I can follow the above diagram using a Dpdt on/on/on but specifically, which 3 wires from the nautilus are output one,two and three?
Brian, maybe you could include this option in your PDF as its a way more common part and a better option where space is at a premium.
Thanks for your help everybody!
In is "A", HP is OUT1, BP is OUT2 and LP is OUT3.
Crystal clear now 8)
One final [I hope] question....
If I wanted to just hard-wire it to the bandpass setting, how would I go about it?
Never mind, looks like you just connect A to BP ::)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx124/czech-one-2/IMG_5706.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx124/czech-one-2/IMG_5711.jpg)
Ok, My Mutron build is complete and It fired right up 8)
Since I used a vintage enclosure I didnt want to do any drilling, so I opted for the sweep and volume pots to be trimmers, and the hi/low and range switches to be board mounted. The volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.Its actually pretty cool as is as theres a slight boost when activated which helps those garcia type licks stand out a bit. The photo shows it hardwired for low pass but I've since settled on the bandpass setting as its the closest to the guitars original tone and funky as hell. ;D
What a great sounding filter, Thanks MADBEAN!
man does that look awesome
you should make a build report!
Heck yeah! Repurposing enclosure for the WIN! I love how that enclosure looks like it was MADE for this project. I also really like you're creativeness in using non-typical parts for the sweep and switch parts.
One thought I had - perhaps replace the wire that hardwires you into LP mode with inline sockets for the HP/BP/LP pads. Then you could easily 'pick your pass' using the wire to just poke into the socket spot you want.
However, that would leave things a little prone to failure because the wire could fall out, so perhaps using something else to do so would be better?
Jacob
Thanks you guys!
Yeah, that would be cool indeed to socket the three pass options somehow.I'm kind of a traditional envelope filter user so I'm fine with one pass selection,and bandpass is my favorite [but low-pass sounds excellent as well!].I really dont think I'll miss the 3 way selector cause one outstanding filter sound is all I need.I really like the fine tuning of the sweep trimmer but I kind of prefer it inside as its a set it and forget it thing for me,and I'm using one guitar live so no need to re-adjust it.I definately recommend the up/down switch inside because A] I dont use the down filter much and B] Everything needs to be re-set when you switch to down.So since you cant just switch it on the fly I dont miss having it within reach.
Anybody considering building this guy I have one recommendation....Do It! ;D
Quote from: MIM#1 on November 12, 2012, 06:33:38 AMThe volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.
There's a 10K in series with the volume trim in the final buffer stage. Jumper that and it will be a unity volume buffer.
Keep in mind that some of the best places for the gain pot may be below unity in some settings. Such is the nature of filters.
Quote from: midwayfair on November 12, 2012, 11:35:52 AM
Quote from: MIM#1 on November 12, 2012, 06:33:38 AMThe volume pot is all the way off and theres still a bit of boost so I'd like to ask how I can lower the volume just a hair.
There's a 10K in series with the volume trim in the final buffer stage. Jumper that and it will be a unity volume buffer.
Keep in mind that some of the best places for the gain pot may be below unity in some settings. Such is the nature of filters.
Well,I tried jumping R25...no sound. Then I thought maybe it was R24....crackly distorted sound when jumpered. So I'm not gonna fool with it any more.I can live with a slight volume boost,its volume drops that drive me crazy!
You can actually increase R24 to lower the output. Try 47k there, and leave the other stuff stock. Jumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output. You need some resistance there at all times. But, a higher value of R24 will limit the signal a bit more going into that stage.
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 05:44:03 AMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.
That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1! :-[
Quote from: midwayfair on November 13, 2012, 06:19:59 AM
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 05:44:03 AMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.
That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1! :-[
The input of IC2_B is inverted.
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 08:01:43 AM
Quote from: midwayfair on November 13, 2012, 06:19:59 AM
Quote from: madbean on November 13, 2012, 05:44:03 AMJumpering R25 means that when the Vol trim is all the way down you will have no output.
That's a bit unusual. Sorry for the bad advice, MIM#1! :-[
The input of IC2_B is inverted.
Oh right, duh, that's why it was there in the first place! :-X
No worries, its back to stock and I'm gonna keep it there :-)
The volume really isnt a big issue at all and I'm kinda starting to like the slight kick its giving. One cool discovery..
When the gain knob reaches maximum this thing creates a killer,natural feedback when driving a distortion or overdrive.I might put a knob on that pot that I can turn with my foot for those feedback inducing moments.
Wish I could post clips but I'm not set up to.I know its cliche but in band pass this thing sounds exactly like the 'What I am' solo in that old Eddie Brickel tune...and thats a great sound! 8)
One final update, I did put a 39k in R24 and it really did the trick,perfect unity gain with the volume trimmer at 25%.Above that plenty of boost available if you desire that. Thanks again Brian for the outstanding advice!
;)
Quote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 02:15:30 AMQuote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PMYes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...
For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source. Havent tried it but i think it will work.
Haven't ever used a tri-color LED but what Hangingmonkey described sounds right to me.
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on December 29, 2012, 06:17:19 AM
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 02:15:30 AM
Quote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...
For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source. Havent tried it but i think it will work.
Thanks for the info! Do you know if the led would turn on/off with the foot switch or if it would remain on during bypass?
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 11:37:27 AM
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on December 29, 2012, 06:17:19 AM
Quote from: Stumptown on December 29, 2012, 02:15:30 AM
Quote from: madbean on October 26, 2012, 06:55:58 PM
Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.
Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...
For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source. Havent tried it but i think it will work.
Thanks for the info! Do you know if the led would turn on/off with the foot switch or if it would remain on during bypass?
It would depend on how you ground it. If you connect the cathode to the top left lug on the 3pdt, same as the main bypass led cathode then the 3color led should switch off when the effect is bypassed.