Everything about this is better than the first version I built ... the distortion is better, it doesn't hiss, and I think the art came out better this time, too.
(http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clipper-ship-2.jpg?h=400)(http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clipper-ship-2-guts.jpg?h=400)
(http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clipper-ship-2-top.jpg?h=250)(http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/clipper-ship-2-bottom.jpg?h=250)
MP38A (hfe 61, L ~ 60) and some of Smallbear's colorful "Generic" Ge diodes with Fv around .27V.
I audited a lot of transistors in this one and my breadboard, and the Russians in the end had the creamiest sound when breaking up. A CV7112 (Hfe 58, L < 10uA) was a close second. It had more crunch and brightness and cleaned up a little better with the volume knob, but since I was shooting for "Voxy" and I always like using cheaper parts when they don't make a difference, I used the Russian.
I also discovered something really interesting: Apparently the first transistor can be literally anything now. That means ... NPN OR PNP. :o This doesn't really make sense to me, so if anyone has any thoughts for how and why it works, I'd love to hear them. Pretty much ANY gain range works, with just varying degrees of volume knob cleanup, brightness, and total distortion. Note, however, that an NPN silicon won't work *at all* if the reverse bias/temperature drift diode is in the circuit ... PNP will though :-\
For anyone curious about this circuit, here's the schematic and layout:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5368.msg61990#msg61990
I've added an etch image to the new layout in case anyone wants to build it, but it must be scaled (I don't know how to do that).
I've filmed a demo and will upload it overnight.
That artwork is awesome Jon..............even better when the size of the box is taken into consideration.
This build is on my short list.
great painting jon, that looks awesome
^ Thanks guys. :D
studiodunn, just make sure you use the most recent schematic and layout if you really do decide to build it (which would be very flattering). :)
I think I'll have a crack at building one of these, after the bearhug, which unfortunately is after a load of builds which aren't for myself! Going to etch them both, then when funds aren't as tight buy a bear hug board or two to support te cause, keep up the good work John. This build looks awesome :)
Your art rules *thumbs up*
This is one of my favourites of yours... nice work 8)
I said it on TGP, but it bears repeating: this is a beautiful build. The detail on the ship is great.
Thanks again.
This type of painting -- where the whole thing is covered -- does require a lot of extra time just waiting around. Overall it's something like a 24-hour process including the clearcoating and the white base coat. This is kind of weird to me, but some of the blue paints also seem to take extra long to dry (whereas white acrylic is like 3 minutes and it's permanent), so not only do I have to wait longer to do the layering with them, but I have to be really slow about the clearcoat to keep them from bleeding. But the end result is definitely worth it for some builds. I can't imagine building a bunch of these, though ...
Wow that looks stellar!
I agree with the previous posters, great artwork! I really dig the hand painted aesthetic and particularly your creative ways of incorporating the name of the each pedal in the artwork.
Can't wait for the demo. Been wanting to build something other than another Klone or classic fuzz for some time now.
I'm late to the party, but this is a beautiful pedal.
I have to say that's the best art I've ever seen on one of yours Jon! I'm so impressed right now.
Jacob
Really awesome!
Josh
Top Marks for that pedal jon...the three knobs look like clouds, I think it looks fantastic. Well done :)
As for building it, I like vero builds now and again so may have a go at this one when I get the overhead transparency's so I can etch a board for it.
Great work fella.
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you've got the job 8)
Hey, an etch image! This puts it in the realm of doability for me, as long as I can get someone to etch a board. I get way too excited over any circuit that needs the words germanium and overdrive in the same breath when describing it.
Quote from: Bret608 on December 17, 2012, 07:30:49 AMHey, an etch image! This puts it in the realm of doability for me
Yeah, I've been trying to remember to do that with layouts I post. The Bearhug had a real etch image right off the bat, but since my "PCB" program is just DIYLC, I'm really limited in how well I can do etch layouts.
Can somebody here help Jon get this circuit to actual size so we can copy it and be able to make an etched board from it??
Somebody must be able to do it...this site has so many talented people.lol Please :)
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you've got the job 8)
If someone can provide overall dims, it shouldn't be too hard to scale it and either give a percent size or upload a resized image. I'm guessing something close to 1.3" wide?
couldn't you just print it at 100% and measure the spacing of say Q1 and work out the % to scale it to, so that a standard socket would fit?
Somone less tired should do it, as i will only get it wrong, at this point in time!!
George
Okay, I did something mildly smart: I actually printed the PDF with no page scaling and held a little piece of perf up against the resulting printout. Turns out it's the right size. Do I need to post a PDF with just the etch mask in it, or is the layout PDF good enough for the etchers?
Good enough for me, when I get through my build list, I'll get building! got some etching to do in the next few days.. Will etch it then. Is it tragic that am looking forward to building it as I haven't seen an 'etched version' build report yet..
George